RE-PROGRAM KEY WITHOUT VAG.COM

Hi all,
I just successfully programmed the key fob.
Here it is in steps:

two keys: THE GOOD ONE; one that works and THE BAD ONE; one to be programmed .

- Open car and put the good one in the ignition slot and turn one click. Leave it there.
- get out of the car, close the door and put the bad one in the door lock.
- now turning the key lock the door and with the bad one still in the door press "UNLOCK" button once.
- now unlock the door manually turning the bad key.
- pull the bad key out the door lock, open the door, go inside and turn off the good key and pull it out.
- put the bad key in the ignition slot and turn one klick, then turn back and pull it out.
- go out of the car, close the door and put the good key in the door. Lock by turning the key then unlock by turning the key.
- take the good key out of the door and repeat the same with the bad key; put the bad key in the door, lock the door by turning the key and then unlock by turning the key.
Test the bed one if turned good by pressing the buttons.
One for one those steps worked for me from the first try this afternoon.

Good Luck

TT Quattro 2003

If your key battery change leaves your remote function inoperable it may have gone out of sync with the system.

The key uses a pseudo-random code each time it is pressed to stop thieves copying the code with a scanner but the car must anticipate the next code in the sequence. If the key becomes reset it will be too far out of sequence for the car to anticipate the next code.

This is what the Audi manual says:

To fix this simply press the button on the remote and then within one minute lock or unlock the car mechanically using the blade. The key will then be automatically re-synchronised with the system.

does this code the imobiliser or just the lock/unlock fuction?

spaceplace said:

does this code the imobiliser or just the lock/unlock fuction?

Click to expand...

Hi, Immobiliser is completely seperate & the above resyncs the central locking.
If fob fails to unlock, try the resync first, always works for me,
Hoggy.

Hoggy said:

spaceplace said:

does this code the imobiliser or just the lock/unlock fuction?

Click to expand...

Hi, Immobiliser is completely seperate & the above resyncs the central locking.
If fob fails to unlock, try the resync first, always works for me,
Hoggy.

Click to expand...

cheers, thought so, i have a spare key synced but not coded, must sort it out really

Could you essentially using this procedure buy a key fob online, get it cut and then program it via this method without having to go to the dealer? If so god damn you just made my day sir

Gonzalo1495 said:

Could you essentially using this procedure buy a key fob online, get it cut and then program it via this method without having to go to the dealer? If so god damn you just made my day sir

Click to expand...

You could reprogramme the remote function but not the immobiliser like that - so you wouldn't be able to start the car. The immobiliser function requires specialist equipment for choosing into the dashpod. See the Knowledge Base - there's a second key guide there.

Some more information from experience of a friend's TT keys (both) suddenly stopping working:

The re-synchronising procedure at the start of this thread didn't work - or it didn't appear to. Even with new batteries there seemed to be no response from the car upon pressing the remote at all. I even tried to fool it with my known working key with the non working key in the locks. Nothing. The car made no response. It seemed as though the central locking controller had lost its radio function.

I tried Vag-Com for an error scan and initially read back a pile of error codes with an auto scan but re-entering the module to clear them showed no errors - before I had a chance to clear them. Strange! I suspected some memory corruption. With no radio response I thought I'd check the antenna connection as sometimes water ingress can short things out so I'd heard.

You can see the back end of the controller with its connectors sticking out at the edge of the back seat in this picture courtesy of Wak. The PCB will pull out of its box rearwards:



I could find no water damage or joint cracking under a strong light and x7 eyeglass. It looked perfect.

Putting the PCB back in and before fully fitting the car back together I tried heating up the PCB with a hair drier to see if there was a change - nothing.

I then tried Vag-Com again to see if I could find out anything trying the Vag-Com method of remote coding rather than just with the keys. I should have done this earlier. When using Vag-Com I could see a response in the screen from pressing the key! They were working!!! It's just that the lights didn't flash so making the car seem totally unresponsive.

I then spent a long time trying to get both remotes to work as I found Bentley manual too confusing as it was talking about Audi equipment and the Ross-Tech website instructions erroneous but I eventually worked it out. All keys are now working but as I didn't find out until later the lights don't flash on locking and I suspect the automatic locking over 15 mph and the passenger door double unlock function won't work. They are easy to reprogramme however. It just shows that the E2PROM on the PCB had lost all its memory. The car is 17 years old so this is a potential issue with fading memory. Re-programming the data should last another lifetime however.

Here's the Ross Tech procedure for Vag-Com but I've corrected it here:

Gather ALL the remotes you would like to match. Insert one key in the ignition and turn it ON.

[Select]

[35 - Cent. Locking]

[Adaptation - 10]

Enter channel "21"

[Read]

This will display the number of currently stored remotes in "Stored Value".

Enter your total number of keys up to a maximum of 4 (including any existing keys) in "New Value" by clicking "up"

[Test]

Verify that the number in "Test Value" is correct.

[Save]

This sets the number of keys to be programmed.

Then click "up" to display "1" for the first key in "New value". The block display will read "Training" (if memory serves me right)

Then press and hold (for at least one second) the UNLOCK button on the fob of key 1, at which time it will be learned and the display block will read "Verified".

[SAVE] < this stores what's just been learnt for key 1

Then click "up" to display "2" for the second key in "New value". The block display will read "Training"

Then press and hold (for at least one second) the UNLOCK button on the fob of key 2, at which time it will be learned and the display block will read "Verified".

[SAVE] < this stores what's just been learnt for key 2

Repeat the same procedure for each extra key.

You have a total of 15 seconds to do them all.

The car may give you some sort of acknowledgement as each key is learned (lights flash, horn beep, etc.) - OR NOT AS THE CASE MAY BE!

Exit controller and test your keys. Note that the remote function will not work until the key is removed from the ignition!

Just wanted to give this thread a bump as it helped me sort out an issue I was having with programming a new remote. I'd tried all the key in the ignition, then lock the door and press unlock etc etc, but I was finding that although I could get both remotes to work, one would lose it's programming very quickly (like minutes), or was being messed up when the other remote was used.

I then carried out the VCDS step by step above, and although there are a few differences*, I have now managed to get both remotes working properly.

Here's what seemed to work for me

[Select]

[35 - Cent. Locking]

[Adaptation - 10]

Enter channel "21"

[Read]

"Stored Value" should say 0 (mine did)

Then click "up" to display "1" for the first key in "New value". The block display will read 'learn'

Then press and hold (for at least one second) the UNLOCK button on the fob of key 1, at which time it will be learned and the display block will read 'Recognised'

[SAVE] < this stores what's just been learnt for key 1

Read 21 again then click "up" to display "2" for the second key in "New value". The block display will read "Training"

Then press and hold (for at least one second) the UNLOCK button on the fob of key 2, at which time it will be learned and the display block will read 'Recognised'

[SAVE] < this stores what's just been learnt for key 2

Repeat the same procedure for each extra key.

You have a total of 15 seconds to do them all.

Very grateful for this thread as I am unable to resync my two keys after a long period with battery disconnected, and looks like VCDS may be the cure.

I think maybe I need a registered version of the Lite sofware to perform the key configuration though? Is that right? Seems you cannot save key changes with the unregistered version?

If so, I don't suppose there's anyone near me (Kingston upon Thames, KT6) with registered copy that I could visit?

Did you try the basic procedure in the manual:

"To fix this simply press the button on the remote and then within one minute lock or unlock the car mechanically using the blade. The key will then be automatically re-synchronised with the system."

Hi John. Yes, tried it (a lot!) but still no joy.

Hi Adam, Find a local auto locksmith they should be able to sort it for you.
Otherwise, Craig is a TTF member & travels the country, perhaps he will be in your area. Click link.
http://www.autosolutions-autolocksmiths.co.uk/
Hoggy.

Can I just confirm something..

My remote had broken .. bits inside broke off

So can I buy a working second hand remote online and get to to lock/unlock my car using to process written at the top of this page?

Then just swap the immobiliser and key blade over to have a fully functioning key fob ?

Thanks Colin

Colinaspence said:

Can I just confirm something..

My remote had broken .. bits inside broke off

So can I buy a working second hand remote online and get to to lock/unlock my car using to process written at the top of this page?

Then just swap the immobiliser and key blade over to have a fully functioning key fob ?

Thanks Colin

Click to expand...

Hi, As long as the part No./ RF frequency is the same, yes it's possible.
Hoggy.