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Wind Noise - How to Adjust Your Windows

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35K views 40 replies 22 participants last post by  steve-x  
#1 ·
Problem: Wind noise heard inside the cabin when driving at motorway speeds and/or on windy days.
Cause: Windows are not sitting high enough when in the fully closed position
Fix: Use window adjusters to raise the windows

Difficulty: Easy
Tools Required:
  • Long 5mm Allen/Hex Key with ball end. (Mine is 160mm long, 120mm may work)[/*]
  • Torch[/*]

Disclaimer 1: This post is a description of how I adjusted the windows on my car and does not constitute advice. Follow at your own risk.
Disclaimer 2: Adjusting your windows will increase the pressure on the window regulators and motors. If they are already on their way out, then this increase in pressure may mean they fail sooner than they otherwise would.

Note: There is no need to remove the door card for this process.

Step 1: Sit inside your car with the door shut and window all the way up. Press on the top of the window all the way along to see how much give there is, and how it varies from front to back.
If the problem is only affecting one window you should do this on the good side too to give you a guage for how much give is normal.

Step 2: Wind window all the way down. (IMPORTANT: if the window isn't all the way down you will waste a long time trying to find the adjuster!)

Step 3: Remove the rubber cap(s) from the bottom of the door. There are only two, both are for the window adjusters.
(If you found that your window was only loose at one end, then you may only need to adjust one end of the window and thus remove one cap.)

Step 4: Insert allen key into adjuster access hole, seat into window adjuster and turn clockwise.
Use the torch to help you locate the adjuster.
They are pretty tough to turn, and I'd suggest only doing a half turn at a time then rechecking.

Step 5: Repeat steps 1-4 as necessary until the window feels firm across the whole length front to back.
It is normal for there to be a bit more give in the centre and being frameless, you will always be able to move the glass slightly if you apply enough pressure, but during adjustment you should get a feel for what is normal and what is not.

Step 6: Take it for a test drive.
 
#5 ·
Could somebody please give me the part number for the "rubber cap(s) from the bottom of the door" that you remove to adjust the window, as I have one missing. Many thanks!
 
#9 ·
Thanks, it is 8J0837947

Incidentally, I did not have an allen that could reach inside the door, so I used the 5mm longer torx tool that is in our boot that also turns an allen socket.
 
#10 ·
Anyone know exactly where the socket is for adjustment in relation to the rubber bung you take off the door? Is it straight up or over to one side?

I tried tightening my driver door (the one nearest the door lock) today with 120mm tool but had no luck finding it! Wondered if 120mm was too short also?
 
#11 ·
If you shine a torch into the hole you will see the adjustment screw, more or less straight up iirc, the window needs to be fully down to access the adjustment screw

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#15 ·
Sorry to post to a fairly old topic but can I ask, how much gap should there be above the window glass? Should the window be tucked into the seal (like on a car with a frames window), or should there be a small space?

I have a noisy passenger side when at motorway speeds so am planning on adjusting.
 
#17 ·
rajanm1 said:
mine is tucked into the rubber so no gap.
I thought so, I imagine not by very far though, so as not to put strain on the mechanicals?
 
#18 ·
MarkTickner said:
Sorry to post to a fairly old topic but can I ask, how much gap should there be above the window glass? Should the window be tucked into the seal (like on a car with a frames window), or should there be a small space?

I have a noisy passenger side when at motorway speeds so am planning on adjusting.
Window should sit into the top rubber seal with no gap mate.
 
#19 ·
Templar said:
Window should sit into the top rubber seal with no gap mate.
Thought so, thanks. I assume they naturally drop over the years?

Best get myself a long 5mm allen key then!
 
#20 ·
MarkTickner said:
Templar said:
Window should sit into the top rubber seal with no gap mate.
Thought so, thanks. I assume they naturally drop over the years?

Best get myself a long 5mm allen key then!
if you look in the boot, the tool set has one long enough :)
 
#22 ·
Could anyone shed any light on my situation please if possible? I was in the same boat as you guys, a bit of wind noise and movement at the top of the window. Tried to adjust the window by turning the front adjuster a few times and now the window won't work. Left it 10 mins and it's gone back up but now wont go down again :/ any ideas? It's the drivers window. Cheers.
 
#23 ·
sykosyksi said:
Could anyone shed any light on my situation please if possible? I was in the same boat as you guys, a bit of wind noise and movement at the top of the window. Tried to adjust the window by turning the front adjuster a few times and now the window won't work. Left it 10 mins and it's gone back up but now wont go down again :/ any ideas? It's the drivers window. Cheers.
i haven't done mine yet but id imagine that its now to tight and the motor doesn't have the power to bring it down, try adjusting it back to where it was and see if it works. hope i have been of some help
 
#26 ·
Is there a precise procedure when changing the window lifter, how to adjust every one of the adjusters and in which order.

The thing is, when I bought my car it had a wind noise and I was thinking it would need an adjustment (the one talked about in this thread). I was going to do it one time and brought the window down to reach the adjusters. The window lifter started crunching and making sounds like the wires are about to snap so I quickly brought the window back and and decided to leave it until I have a new one.

But today I decided to have a look and what did I found.. There was a brand new lifter fitted, new OEM part with manufacturing date 16.08.2016. So the previous owner either tried to fit it or have someone else do it who didn't know what he was doing.

The wedge part from the front rail was inside the door, also both of the bolts which clamp the window to the rails were loose and also the 13mm nuts on the back rail were only hand tight. No wonder that the window was clunking a bit.. :lol: and the lifter crunching like it is going to die any moment.

I fitted the wedge to the front rail and came up with a setting somewhere in the middle of it's "range". Then I adjusted the back rails, loosened the 13mm and used a T25 bit to adjust the "bolts" - they were way off. Had to counterhold with a socket held with locking pliers to get them tight. You know what I am talking about if you "have been there". I got the back of the window quite flush comparing to the small window on the rear quarter panel. The window moves down and up now easily and without any extra noises. Went for a test drive, quite good but still a little wind noise (barely noticeable) so I will do the upwards adjustment tomorrow which was talked about around here.

So like I asked in the beginning - is there a right way/order to get all the adjustments right? Because only the front lower fixing point of the window lifter does not have an adjustment. All the other 3 affect the sideways tilting of the window and they can be quite hard to get right if you have to start from point zero like I did. And then there is also the upwards adjustment so 5 in total :mrgreen: