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Door Micro Switch

36K views 82 replies 39 participants last post by  jjo5555  
#1 ·
Can anyone tell me/point me in the right direction for getting the micro switch for the door. Ive tried the links on the thread on it and none of them are opening for me.
Im hoping to start it at the weekend maybe even during the week if works quiet, what rating of switch am i going to need etc.

Cheers

Dazz
 
#2 ·
Daz get in touch with garvie,I'm sure he has done this and it only cost him a few quid.think it was a few bits out of marlin.pm him if you don't get a reply I,ll give him a call for ye :)
 
#11 ·
I used the lever microswitch on the attached link.

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=34835

I actually bought a few different sizes to see which was best. I opted for the one above due to it being a similar size to the original. However, because the mounting holes do not line up, I had to drill a couple of holes through the lock mech housing and bolted the new switch into place. I then soldered a couple of crimps onto the connection wires so that I can easily replace the switch if it ever fails again.

All of the above sounds more complicated than it actually was. The most complicated part was figuring out the best orientation for the new switch so that the cam always operated it on opening and closing the door. I also snipped about 3mm off the end of the lever due to it being slightly too long.

The door has worked perfect ever since.

Gies a shout if you need any more info.

Cheers

Alan
 
#15 · (Edited by Moderator)
Hi All,
I know this link is a little old now, but it was just the business for helping me to fix my Drivers Door micro switch.

I'm new to the TT (5 weeks in... still loving it). When I bought the car, I found that the window drop/lift, along with all the other sensing, that tells the car that the door is open (clock & speedo light up, door open symbol when keys in ignition, the buzzer when lights left on.) to be a bit intermitent. It last a week, being hit n miss, then stopped all together. Having reseached the forum, it had to be the micro switch in the drivers door mechanism. Here's my route to the fix, and the options you have.
1) Main dealer - buy a new door mechanism... about ÂŁ120 ... ouch! [smiley=bigcry.gif]
2) Buy a second hand door mechnism - mmm :? Well, you try finding one! Lots of passenger ones out there, and if you go for a s/h drivers one, the switch will not probably work in it, or last very long. A false economy... I know, I did try this with a s/h one from europe... mechanism fine, but switch not working.
3) replace the micro switch - already mentioned above. You may find your way here, if the switch is broken, as opposed to worn. I didn't need to go this route.
4) Plastic Strip and Super Glue! - I went this route in the end, and worked like a dream! Here's how...

- You really do need Spine M8 to release the lock-tighted door mechanism bolts. Torx did not work for me. Bought a cheap set of eBay, about ÂŁ7, did the trick.

1) - remove the door card (trim). I used WAKs instructions... brilliant. Find them here...
http://www.wak-tt.com/mods/doorpanel/doorpanel.htm
This gets you to the point of having the door card resting in the door aperture, wires still connected, with the door open. Gicing access to the lock mechnism from the inside. (Note - The tip on window down, and plastic strip over metal edge, when refitting.)

2) Removed the 2x Spline M8 bolts that hold the door mechanism to the door.

3) Release the plastic anti tamper cover, thats over the lock mechism. It takes a bit of tugging, It did help with the Door Mechanism lose i nthe door.

4) Door Handle Connection - You'll see a cable and a rod. Push the mechanism lever towards the door handle (push outwards) This slackens the cable, and allows you to twist the black plasitc disk on the end of the wire, and pop it off the door mechanism. The rod is just located in a mechanism, so the whole door mecahnism is now free.

5) Remove the last bit holding the door mechanism, the multi-pin connector. It's a bit of fiddle, but with mechanism free, you can turn it round and see how its locked in place. I used a small screw driver and gently wedge it over the lock lug and popped it off. The Door Mechanism is now in your hand, and you hand has a a few scrapes! :roll:

Time for a tea, and a closer look at what is going on with the micro switch!

1) You'll see 2 wires going to the switch. The switch is locked in place by a metal clip.
2) Use a screwdriver and gently prise the lock clip off the door mechanism. It will ping off, as there is tension there.
3) now you see the top of the switch tucked into a metal resess. It is located in the resess, by 2 plastic lugs on its body. They slot into 2 holes in the side of the resess. You can just wiggle the switch out of these, as you pull the switch upwards. In the resess you can see the door mechanism that rocks over the door shut. This is the surface that rolls on and off of the micro switch, as you open n shut the door.
4) Clean up the switch, resess and door roll mechanism. I just used a rag and wiped up.

You will now see why you have an issue with your switch. There should be a grey dome cover, over the black micro switch. Your will probably hava a fully exposed black switch head, with a circle of grey round the outside. The dome completely worn away, leaving just the switch head. Does the switch still click, when pressed? if so, you're in business. If not, you probably need a new switch. Mine clicked fine, and had nothing left of the grey dome. (See first & second pic)
IMAG0996.jpg
IMAG0998.jpg


Here's the fix, and check out the pics below...
1) find a bit of plastic! - I used the lid off a tub of margarine (...flora!) and cut a small strip off. I was about 20mm x 5mm. It just has to be a little shorter than the length of the switch and a smidge narrower than the switch. This is enough thickness to fill the void left by the woren out plastic dome, over the micro switch. (See the white strip in first and second pic)
2) tiny drop of supeglue on the back of the switch, at the end furthest away from the switch.
3) line up your plastic strip and then place the end of it in the superglue and hold. It wil be resting over the micro switch, which bends the strip upwards. (See third pic) Thats ok. Don't stick your fingers to the switch, or you will struggle to put the switch in the resess! :lol:
IMAG1000.jpg

4) Once dry... and it bonds and dries within a couple of minutes, pop the switch back in the resses. It should locate in the two holes and the plastic strip mates up with the rocker mechanism in the door mechanism. (see fourth pic - you should see a white line. thats the plastic strip. Note, that the spring metal clip is not shown in the pic.)
IMAG1002.jpg

5) Press the retaining clip back over the micro switch.. Job Done.
6) More Tea... then Test your newly fixed door mechanism. Just plug the multi-pin connector into the door mechanism, before re-fitting. The door window will instantly drop it's 10mm! :p
7) Refit mechnism in door, which is just a reverse of taking out. The Anti tamper shield is a bit of struggle to refit. I found that connecting the exterior door handle rod and and cable, then getting the shield in place, you kind of fit them together, as they do mate up. Take your time and work it in.
8) Continue putting the door back to together as per WAKs article, mentioned above.

It's been working like a dream ever since! Hope this, my first ever, write up and pics help.
Cheers, Greg
 

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#18 ·
I had a similar problem recently causing the lights on warning buzzer not to work. I have removed the driver's door mechanism and although the microswitch is clicking, the dome is damaged so that the black switch head is exposed and the grey dome is now a small ring with a couple of cracks in it. Therefore, the repair method highlighted above will be the next step. However, before I do that cam anyone explain to me how the cam mechanism works. As far as I can tell, simulating the action of opening and closing the door by operating the various levers has no effect on the position of the cam. I appreciate that it should only move a small amount - just enough to trigger the microswitch - but I cannot get it to shift at all .Am I doing something wrong, or is there another fault within the lock mechanism itself ?
 
#19 ·
Firstly, it sounds like your micro switch is fine. The dome gone, but the switch clicks happily. This is exactly how mine was.

The cam. The cam is actually part of the black mechanism that rolls on to the door frame hook. So, you can simulate the closing of the door by placing a screwdriver into the latch area and pushing inwards... acting like the bar on the door frame. It rolls round and locks. This 'roll-round' not only lock on the door frame bar, but also operates the micro switch.

If its the driver side unit. Hold it in your left hand, with the red and blue wires at the top, so you are looking into the V of the mechanism. You can just about see the black of the rolling cam, below the micro switch. If you simulate a door close and look at the bottom of the micro switch, you will see the cam move.

How it works... with the door open, the cam is pressing on the micro switch. As the door shuts, the cam rolls off the switch.

The reason it fails... The rubber dome over the micro switch wears away. So, when the door is open the cam is too far away from the dome-less micro switch, and does not press it down. So, it continually stays up, door open or shut.

Good luck with the repair. I'm confident you'll soon have it sorted. 8)
 
#20 ·
Thanks for the advice. I reinstalled the microswitch and reconnected the cables to the door mechanism. I then simulated the action of opening and closing the door by moving the latch with a screwdriver with the ignition on and the lights off and vice versa. Nothing happened. I then removed the microswitch and operated it manually. With the ignition on, the windows moved down and up. With the lights on and the ignition off, the lights warning buzzer sounded, proving that the switch works OK but that it is no longer capable of making contact with the cam.

Now looking for a new switch or a margarine carton as per the solution shown earlier in this post..
 
#21 ·
One thing I did before trying the fix... buy a second lock mechanism, but one from mainland Europe. My cunning plan was to pick up a Euro passenger one, which equate to a UK Drivers Door one, in the hope that it was less worn and ok.

Sadly, that plan backfired! ... as when it arrived, it too had a worn out micro switch dome! [smiley=bigcry.gif]

That's when I headed for the margarine tub lid and super glue!... and fixed it :p
 
#22 ·
Hi,

I have the same problem but haven't had a proper look at it yet... I bought this microswitch from Maplin and just wanna check that it's the right one... I've tried the links above buyt they just take me to the home page..

Cheers
Dan

Image
 
#23 ·
cavaye said:
Hi,

I have the same problem but haven't had a proper look at it yet... I bought this microswitch from Maplin and just wanna check that it's the right one... I've tried the links above buyt they just take me to the home page..

Cheers
Dan

Image
Interested to know the same, need to replace my drivers side switch. If this is the correct one then I'm on it.
 
#24 ·
ackers said:
cavaye said:
Hi,

I have the same problem but haven't had a proper look at it yet... I bought this microswitch from Maplin and just wanna check that it's the right one... I've tried the links above buyt they just take me to the home page..

Cheers
Dan

Image
Interested to know the same, need to replace my drivers side switch. If this is the correct one then I'm on it.
I've just had a look at the guide above and it looks like it is definitely NOT the correct one, it needs to be a lot smaller... I'm gunna go back to Maplin now and change it... I'll let you know the one I get and hopefully someone can confirm it is the correct one... :p
 
#25 ·
..are you guys going for a new micro switch because your original one no longer operates? From reading the above, it seems you'll still be drilling holes in the door latch to secure it and will need to make sure it lines up on the cam. I thought about a new micro switch, but as no one could find one exactly the same size/fitment as the OEM one, I opted for the repair...
..which meant I just had to be a dab hand with super-glue and scissors! :)

I can see though... if the switch is totally ker-put, you would be looking for a new mirco switch.
 
#26 ·
wabbit_of_cc said:
..are you guys going for a new micro switch because your original one no longer operates? From reading the above, it seems you'll still be drilling holes in the door latch to secure it and will need to make sure it lines up on the cam. I thought about a new micro switch, but as no one could find one exactly the same size/fitment as the OEM one, I opted for the repair...
..which meant I just had to be a dab hand with super-glue and scissors! :)

I can see though... if the switch is totally ker-put, you would be looking for a new mirco switch.
I'm yet to fully investigate, all I know is there is something wrong with my switch, and it gets more irritating each day on these dark mornings getting in to my car.

What is the trick with scissors and glue? I must have missed something!