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Master\Slave Cylinder, Clutch and flywheel costs

11K views 9 replies 5 participants last post by  medlen1985 
#1 ·
Hi folks,

After 6 months or so of having my TT I have encountered the first real problem.

Yesterday the car would not go into gear at all and the clutch appeared to be flush with the footwell and not coming back up. I was towed by RAC to the nearest garage and the chap there took a quick look at it.

They thought it was probably the slave cylinder leaking fluid. Quite a labour intensive job due to where it is. He suggested replacing the clutch while doing this as the engine would be out anyway and it could need done soon anyway. He also suggested the the dual mass flywheel may need replacing too and possibly the master cylinder.

The costs of this seems quite steep - about £800 to £900 without the flywheel (assuming it is ok) and around £1500 with the flywheel. Do these costs sound about right?? He suggested that maybe around 10 hours of labour could be involved? I understand it is not a simple job but if anyone else has had this done then advice on times\costs of whether all of this needs to be done would be appreciated!

Thanks in advance.

Zak
 
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#3 ·
mkay99 said:
Way too expensive in my opinion. Where are you located? Btw, can you pull the pedal back up with your hands?
I am on the south coast, Dorset. Yes - I can pull it back up with my hand. It was sticking for a day or two before but would either come back up eventually or could be pulled up with my toes. not ideal but was just waiting until my week off work next week to deal with it.
 
#4 ·
I have just done a clutch change on my roadster, with the superb help of another forum member! Big shout to Jamie!!
The parts can be sourced for reasonable cost.
I think I paid roughly including vat and delivery:
Clutch £120
Flywheel £240
Slave Cylinder £20
You will need some fluids also.
It is a VERy intensive labour process and took the 2 of us a solid 2-3 days work non stop.
Granted it was the first time either of us had done it so perhaps a little slower than some but the main problem is access!
Its ruddy tight under there and tbh, given the choice again I would probably pay a good indy to do the work.
They reckon book time is 10 hours! Damn well done to anyone who can have it all done and back working in that time!
I am pleased I did it myself and so was Jamie.
If you want any pointers give me a shout.
 
#5 ·
Hi Zaka, It could be the master cylinder, the OEM MC does have a design flaw that causes the same symptoms. May cost your the price of a MC as well as clutch, but could be just the master cylinder. Worth the risk, I would think so, unless they can definately prove its the slave cylinder.
Hoggy. :D
 
#6 ·
Thanks Hoggy, They guy there said he checked for leaks everywhere else I couldn't find one. He then put it up on the ramp and confirmed that is was the slave cylinder. Is it usual to do both the slave and master at the same time?? I know masters are sometimes done on their own. I can see why it makes sense to do the clutch at the same time. Seems a big job an in all, not simple.

Thanks Matthew, that sounds like quite a job. I only know the basics and will probably stick to an indy doing it locally but I just want to make sure I am doing the right thing with regards parts and diagnosis and pricing.
 
#7 ·
Hi Zaka, A difficult one I know, just thinking you may replace clutch & slave & have same prob, until MC is replaced.
Must be a way of proving which cylinder it is, without removing gearbox, perhaps your garage has.
Hoggy. :D
 
#8 ·
Would have thought a good indy will spot a MC leaking, its well apart from the slave.
I know its a shed load of money BUt if it turns out to be the slave cylinder I would say replace the clutch while its all out and apart.
The parts are inexpensive compared to the labour involved to do it twice.
 
#9 ·
matthewwoodward said:
Would have thought a good indy will spot a MC leaking, its well apart from the slave.
I know its a shed load of money BUt if it turns out to be the slave cylinder I would say replace the clutch while its all out and apart.
The parts are inexpensive compared to the labour involved to do it twice.
Hi, The design flaw of the OEM Master Cylinder doesn't have to leak to cause these symptoms, a bleed hole gets blocked by piston seal & pedal fails to return, unless pulled up manually.
Happened to me twice 8 years & never since & still original OEM M/C.
Hoggy. :D
 
#10 ·
matthewwoodward said:
I have just done a clutch change on my roadster, with the superb help of another forum member! Big shout to Jamie!!
The parts can be sourced for reasonable cost.
I think I paid roughly including vat and delivery:
Clutch £120
Flywheel £240
Slave Cylinder £20
You will need some fluids also.
It is a VERy intensive labour process and took the 2 of us a solid 2-3 days work non stop.
Granted it was the first time either of us had done it so perhaps a little slower than some but the main problem is access!
Its ruddy tight under there and tbh, given the choice again I would probably pay a good indy to do the work.
They reckon book time is 10 hours! Damn well done to anyone who can have it all done and back working in that time!
I am pleased I did it myself and so was Jamie.
If you want any pointers give me a shout.
We could probably do it in about ten the second time around hey. Being
Masters at it now. Have you tried topping up your brake fluid and bleeding it to see if the pedal comes back up. Could be a slow leak or something. It defiantly has a leak though but where who knows. Could just be that your bleed nipple has somehow cracked open or something. Worth a look before spending loads of money. Cheers Jamie.
 
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