Over the weekend I renewed the discs and pads all round on my V6, although I believe the TTS has the same.
This is not meant to be a guide but a few notes for those willing to attempt it themselves, and no doubt I missed bits off. Do not attempt the job unless you are comfortable doing so, and make sure you are safe at all times when jacking and working on the car.
I used MTEC drilled discs and I think they look great. I didn't go for the coating option as I plan to paint the disc hubs black with Hammerite.
Remove a front wheel. The first thing to do is remove the pad retaining bracket, which can be levered off with a large flat screwdriver with a cloth on the end. Be careful you don't let it ping off, and be careful of any painted calipers (though they will definitely be scratched when refitting!). The passenger side has a pad wear sensor connector to disconnect.
Remove the plastic caps for the slider bolts:
Undo the slider bolts with a 7mm allen socket. They should be tight so spray some penetrating oil in there first. I also removed the vibration damper T30 torx bolt for better access to the bottom slider, though the brake line also makes access tight. A short wobble extension helps.
Once removed wiggle the caliper off. This might be tight if the discs have a ridge, and I found I could just about get a G clamp on the edge of a pad and push back the cylinder a bit (loosen the brake fluid reservoir cap and ensure it doesn't overflow).
You will then end up with this:
Next are two very tight bolts holding the caliper carrier to the hub. You will need a breaker bar to get these undone with plenty of penetrating oil.
Once undone remove the carrier. Undo the brake disc retaining bolt with a torx bit (I used an impact driver to ensure it came out easily). At this stage the disc may or may not come off (mine did). If not, use a mallet and persuade it off.
Give everything a cleanup, especially the hub, making sure it is completely clean. Clean off any grease from the new discs and refit. I used a new retaining bolt (part number N10648301, £0.42) and tighten to 4Nm. Refit the carrier and torque the bolts to 200Nm. Push back the cylinder slowly all the way using a G clamp and ensure the reservoir doesn't overflow, extracting fluid if necessary.
Fit the new pads making sure to put CeraTec grease on all moving parts as well as their backs. Grease the smooth slider bolts with CeraTec grease, refit and torque to 30Nm. I used threadlock on the carrier and slider bolts. Refit the pad retaining bracket, plastic caps, vibration damper and pad wear connector (on the passenger side).
You can now pump the brake pedal a few times, which will readjust the caliper. Repeat the process for the other side.
The rear is a different process. The slider bolts needs to be removed with a 13mm spanner while counter-holding the 15mm edge. Again this will be fairly tight so a hammer may help along with penetrating oil:
Now the caliper can be wiggled out with the help of a large screwdriver. Next the carrier needs to be removed. This was the hardest part of the job as the driveshaft makes access very tight. A splined M14 socket as well as a short bar is needed as well as a club hammer and penetrating oil, as there is not space for a breaker bar. You will need to give it a good whack until it loosens up and can be undone with a rachet.
Remove and refit the disc as before ensuring everything is cleaned up. I pulled out the slider pins and regreased using general purpose grease. Refit the carrier bolts and torque to 90Nm + 90º. Wind back the cylinder using a windback tool, again making sure the reservoir doesn't overflow. Refit the pad ensuring moving edges and pad backs are greased. Refit the caliper and torque the bolts to 35Nm.
Firmly pump the brake pedal a few times until it feels normal, and try the handbrake a few times. Make sure you refit the reservoir cap. Test the brakes before driving on the road and don't brake hard for 200 miles until everything beds in.
This is not meant to be a guide but a few notes for those willing to attempt it themselves, and no doubt I missed bits off. Do not attempt the job unless you are comfortable doing so, and make sure you are safe at all times when jacking and working on the car.
I used MTEC drilled discs and I think they look great. I didn't go for the coating option as I plan to paint the disc hubs black with Hammerite.
Remove a front wheel. The first thing to do is remove the pad retaining bracket, which can be levered off with a large flat screwdriver with a cloth on the end. Be careful you don't let it ping off, and be careful of any painted calipers (though they will definitely be scratched when refitting!). The passenger side has a pad wear sensor connector to disconnect.
Remove the plastic caps for the slider bolts:
Undo the slider bolts with a 7mm allen socket. They should be tight so spray some penetrating oil in there first. I also removed the vibration damper T30 torx bolt for better access to the bottom slider, though the brake line also makes access tight. A short wobble extension helps.
Once removed wiggle the caliper off. This might be tight if the discs have a ridge, and I found I could just about get a G clamp on the edge of a pad and push back the cylinder a bit (loosen the brake fluid reservoir cap and ensure it doesn't overflow).
You will then end up with this:
Next are two very tight bolts holding the caliper carrier to the hub. You will need a breaker bar to get these undone with plenty of penetrating oil.
Once undone remove the carrier. Undo the brake disc retaining bolt with a torx bit (I used an impact driver to ensure it came out easily). At this stage the disc may or may not come off (mine did). If not, use a mallet and persuade it off.
Give everything a cleanup, especially the hub, making sure it is completely clean. Clean off any grease from the new discs and refit. I used a new retaining bolt (part number N10648301, £0.42) and tighten to 4Nm. Refit the carrier and torque the bolts to 200Nm. Push back the cylinder slowly all the way using a G clamp and ensure the reservoir doesn't overflow, extracting fluid if necessary.
Fit the new pads making sure to put CeraTec grease on all moving parts as well as their backs. Grease the smooth slider bolts with CeraTec grease, refit and torque to 30Nm. I used threadlock on the carrier and slider bolts. Refit the pad retaining bracket, plastic caps, vibration damper and pad wear connector (on the passenger side).
You can now pump the brake pedal a few times, which will readjust the caliper. Repeat the process for the other side.
The rear is a different process. The slider bolts needs to be removed with a 13mm spanner while counter-holding the 15mm edge. Again this will be fairly tight so a hammer may help along with penetrating oil:
Now the caliper can be wiggled out with the help of a large screwdriver. Next the carrier needs to be removed. This was the hardest part of the job as the driveshaft makes access very tight. A splined M14 socket as well as a short bar is needed as well as a club hammer and penetrating oil, as there is not space for a breaker bar. You will need to give it a good whack until it loosens up and can be undone with a rachet.
Remove and refit the disc as before ensuring everything is cleaned up. I pulled out the slider pins and regreased using general purpose grease. Refit the carrier bolts and torque to 90Nm + 90º. Wind back the cylinder using a windback tool, again making sure the reservoir doesn't overflow. Refit the pad ensuring moving edges and pad backs are greased. Refit the caliper and torque the bolts to 35Nm.
Firmly pump the brake pedal a few times until it feels normal, and try the handbrake a few times. Make sure you refit the reservoir cap. Test the brakes before driving on the road and don't brake hard for 200 miles until everything beds in.