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2006 2.0 TFSI EA113 BWA Coup茅
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello everyone,

For the past few months I've been the new owner of a 2006 MK2 TT with the 2.0 TFSI EA113 BWA engine. The car currently has around 70k miles, with not much more than 1k miles being driven during my ownership.

While in general good shape, there were many things I wanted to check and fix on the car (things that I was aware of when I bought it). I'm somewhat of a perfectionist and as such I've been doing all the maintenance and fixes myself with the utmost care, up to getting the least relevant and insignificant bolt torqued to spec.

Here is a simplified list of things done so far:

  • Oil change and new oil filter
  • New spark plugs
  • New air filter
  • New cabin filter
  • New battery
  • New valve cover gasket
  • New PCV valve, gasket and pipes
  • New cam follower and checked the camshaft lobe for damage (all normal and also replaced the fuel pump o-ring)
  • New thermostat/thermostat housing
  • New serpentine belt
  • Flushed the old coolant and filled up with new G13
  • Cleaned the MAF with appropriate MAF cleaner
  • Used a gasoline fuel system cleaner

While many problems and issues were solved, one has persisted since I've bought the car and I'd like to get some help trying to pinpoint it since many of you know these engines well and may know right away what the issue is while I'm grasping at straws here 馃槄

First, the error codes:

P0507: Idle Control System RPM: Higher than Expected.
P1297: Pressure Drop between Turbo and Throttle Valve (check D.V.!)
P2279: Leak in Air Intake System

Note: Errors return after clearing them, all three of them. No other error codes are present or were seen since I've had the car. No Check engine light ever appeared.

Secondly, the symptoms:

  • Car lurching/jerky at low speeds/RPMs
  • Constantly fluctuating idle on certain occasions
  • Rough/fluttering feeling and exhaust note at idle even when RPMs are stable
  • During drive at lower speeds you can feel the car either "engine breaking" harder or letting itself go easier (as if the RPMs are changing slightly with no driver input)
  • No change in behavior at idle when symptoms are present when removing the oil cap, the dipstick or even when disconnecting the MAF
  • Overall feeling that something "ain't quite right"

Note: Symptoms severity appears to somewhat random, happening with car both cold and warmed up but sometimes not happening at all.

Finally, the videos/live data:

- Video of the RPMs fluctuating (car in neutral, I'm not touching on anything in the vehicle).

Fluctuating RPMs - YouTube

- Removing the oil cap and the dipstick didn't change the behavior at all from what me and my friend noticed (and that can be seen and heard by the video I think).

Oil cap and dipstick removal test - YouTube

- Disconnecting the MAF also made no difference in the behavior at all (did get a MAF error in the OBD scanner as expected though).

MAF disconnected - YouTube

- Here we can see that the car is changed from open to closed loop when the problem is "active" and follows the car revving by itself up and down.

Open Closed Loop fluctuation - YouTube

- When the RPMs go up by themselves we can see the fuel trims going up massively.

Fuel trims and RPM increase - YouTube

- Finally, and this is a weird one, the air temperature is reading as 65C (I am not in Death Valley) and the throttle position is recording as being at around 11% when I'm not touching it at all (You can also see it raise just slightly when I rev the car myself).

Air temperature and throttle position - YouTube

And that is it. I'm sorry for the very long post and for being so anal but I wanted to be as thorough and informative as I could.

Will enthusiastically be waiting for your replies and tips!
 

Super Moderator
2007 3.2 VR6 Quattro Roadster
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Try going through the Ross Tech Wiki page for each fault and follow their recommendations - (click on the highlighted numbers below)

P0507: Idle Control System RPM: Higher than Expected.
P1297: Pressure Drop between Turbo and Throttle Valve (check D.V.!)
P2279: Leak in Air Intake System

Anytime you need information on a fault code, run a Google search for "Ross Tech xxxxx" where xxxxx is the fault code.
 

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2006 2.0 TFSI EA113 BWA Coup茅
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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Try going through the Ross Tech Wiki page for each fault and follow their recommendations - (click on the highlighted numbers below)

P0507: Idle Control System RPM: Higher than Expected.
P1297: Pressure Drop between Turbo and Throttle Valve (check D.V.!)
P2279: Leak in Air Intake System

Anytime you need information on a fault code, run a Google search for "Ross Tech xxxxx" where xxxxx is the fault code.
Hey there,

I appreciate your tip but I already did so, I also changed the PCV valve, the gasket and related tubing and the problems still persist (by the recommendations on Ross Tech Wiki as being the most likely cause).

I tried to add as much information as I could so that the issue can be. if possible, pinpointed instead of me just swapping parts that "may" be the issue but end up not being the issue at all.

Still, appreciate the help ;)
 

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2007 3.2 VR6 Quattro Roadster
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There's a way to find vacuum leaks using propane (sounds explosive, but it's not that dangerous). Basically you use a small hand-held canister, attach a hose to the nozzle and a ball-point pen as the "wand". Open the valve just enough to let a little propane out of the bottle, and put the end of the wand at all all the possible EVAP and other air-system lines, especially where splits or cracks might be present, and when it sucks in the propane, the engine will surge. This is best done outdoors.

Click here for a YouTube video on how to do this.
Table Engineering Service Machine Electronic device
 

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2006 2.0 TFSI EA113 BWA Coup茅
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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
An update:

First of all thank you all for the tips, I really appreciate it!

I checked the diverter valve and while it was an old revision, it was perfectly fine. I did swap it to a new part with the latest revision regardless. Also changed the fuel filter (was on the to do list) and cleaned the MAF (again). The problem still persists, just throwing the P0507 error at this stage though but I haven't driven much after the swap.

Since my research leads to many different things (dipstick vacuum leak, throttle body, intake flaps, etc) and since I don't think I'll be able to properly identify vacuum leaks using DIY methods, I'm going to get a diagnosis done at my local Audi dealership and will get back with the results.
 

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2006 2.0 TFSI EA113 BWA Coup茅
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hello again everyone,

I got the car back from the Audi dealership. They said it was a dirty throttle body and "calibrated it". That was NOT the case.

First day I get the car back I drive it a little and notice right away the problem is still present. Not only that, for the first time ever, I actually get a check engine light and then I get some extra errors that were never present before!

Here is the updated list:

Older ones that are still present:
P0507: Idle Control System RPM: Higher than Expected.
P1297: Pressure Drop between Turbo and Throttle Valve (check D.V.!)
P2279: Leak in Air Intake System

New errors present:
P0642: Sensor Reference Voltage A: Circuit: Low
P3193: Intake Manifold Runner Control: Open Stop outside of Valid Range

Symptoms are the same as mentioned before and they show themselves in the same way as shown on the videos I added to my first post.

Can someone please help and shed some light here on what can this be? All this errors surely must be pointing to something specific?
 

Super Moderator
2007 3.2 VR6 Quattro Roadster
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Let's look at all your fault codes and see if there are any common or similar issues being reported. Since you've already addressed the DV (N249) we can probably ignore that for now.

P2279 and P0642 have the Manifold Tuning Valve Position Sensor (G336) in common.
P1297 and P2279 seem to both point to a vacuum leak

Looking at the diagram below, quite a few of the components in this list of faults are related to the intake manifold assembly; (e.g. J338, G336, G410 and V157). I would probably start my leak check in this area first. Although you changed your PCV valve, gasket and pipes, there have been issues with the PCV kits in the past. Take a look at this post.

P0507: Idle Control System RPM: Higher than Expected
  • Throttle Valve Control Module (J338) dirty/faulty
  • Wiring/Connector(s) from/to Throttle Valve Control Module (J338)
P1297: Pressure Drop between Turbo and Throttle Valve (check D.V.!)
  • Turbocharger Recirculating Valve (N249) (Diverter Valve) faulty
  • Throttle Body dirty
  • Vacuum leak
  • Boost Pressure Control Valve (N75) faulty
P2279: Leak in Air Intake System
  • Faulty Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) System or Heating Element (N79)
P0642: Sensor Reference Voltage A: Circuit: Low
  • Manifold Pressure / Boost Sensor (G31)
  • Intake Manifold Tuning Valve Position Sensor (G336)
  • Low Pressure Fuel Sensor (G410)
P3193: Intake Manifold Runner Control: Open Stop outside of Valid Range
  • Check Intake Manifold Tuning Valve Position Sensor (G336)
  • Check Motor for Intake Manifold Flap (V157)
If you have a Ross Tech VCDS, you can look through Address-01 Engine and view multiple (up to three) Measurement Blocks to see where the out-of-spec values are being reported. You can also do this with OBDeleven, but only one Measurement Block at a time.

From the Workshop Manual - Wiring Diagrams & Component Locations - XXX5TT20021
Font Screenshot Parallel Machine Motor vehicle
 

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2006 2.0 TFSI EA113 BWA Coup茅
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thank you very much for the descriptive post SwissJetPilot! It looks like I have a lot of digging to do. I do not have VCDS but I guess this is time to get it and try to get things done by myself.

I'll report back with updates and will let you guys know what I find. Meanwhile, I'm always open to any other takes to this.
 

Super Moderator
2007 3.2 VR6 Quattro Roadster
Joined
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Here's a link to a really good YouTube by the Charles the Humble Mechanic that goes over the basics of VCDS - click here.

VCDS can be a bit daunting at first, but once you get the hang of it it's pretty straight forward. Run a full auto scan first and save it so you capture all your factory settings (long codes) in the event you change something you can always change it back.

Also, when you run the scan, if you plan on playing around with it for a while, keep the engine running. I failed to do this the first time I got mine, and after about an hour I had a dead battery. :rolleyes:

Also this post from the Knowledge Base -
 
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