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For future reference, any time a mechanic tells you it "needs" something, ask for a fault scan so they can prove to you what's wrong and then have them explain why it needs to be replaced. At least now with a VCDS you can do your own fault scans and are less likely to get pulled over the table for repairs you may not actually need. (y)
 

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As your car is a 2009 pre facelift, it should have a gen.2 haldex filter as below and the pump also has a screened filter inside it. The filter below is often ignored and/or the existence of it denied by Audi as they claim it’s a non serviceable lifetime part which is not the case. The filter should be changed every 60,000 from recollection and the screen inside the pump should also either be replaced or removed and cleaned and reassembled.

 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Here’s a curve ball, even though my car is 2009 it looks like I have the generation 4 haldex pump, my mechanic did say I needed gen 4. And looking at it just now as you can see in the pic it looks like the generation 4 pump I have purchased
Do you think I should send it back and just buy a filter kit to save money?
 

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Repost:

If in doubt, look under your car.
3/4'ths the way back on the right-hand side and you should see the Haldex filter cover.
If it is round it is a Gen2.



If it looks like this picture it is a Gen4


You don't need a lift to do this, just a willingness to get down on the ground and look.
 
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I guess it’s completely possible that if your car is a late 2009, it might have been a very early gen 4 unit that got fitted. For complete clarification you might want to phone your local Audi parts department and they can confirm correct pump for you via VIN or Reg.

As SJP said, being told you need something without backing up the reasons why can be a bit misleading. You can confirm the functionality of the haldex pump with your VCDS and if there’s nowt wrong with it then you know what to do with the one you’ve bought. Obviously if it shows it’s faulty, then it would need changing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Ok cheers just waiting on my vcds to check.
i have got under my car, the picture I took is me comparing my gen 4 replacement to the existing and they look the same shape, just the existing is rusted. Definitely a different shape to gen 2
 

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It certainly does appear to be a gen 4 pump from the shape of it - can you see the cap for the haldex filter near by? - as mentioned, the caps for gen 2 and gen 4 are completely different and easily distinguished.

Gen 2 cap

Gas Rim Wood Circle Automotive tire


Gen 4 cap

Font Automotive design Fashion accessory Automotive exterior Metal
 

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Kievebuh14 said:
i have got under my car, the picture I took is me comparing my gen 4 replacement to the existing and they look the same shape, just the existing is rusted. Definitely a different shape to gen 2
I don't think you can really tell by the shape of the pump housing. It is just a motor and new replacement pumps (Gen2 or Gen4) might now share the same metal can. The filter housing (opposite side of your Haldex) will be different, guaranteeing positive ID.
 

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In which case, if it walks like a duck, quacks like a duck, chances are it is a duck 😂 so all you’ve gotta do now is wait to test out your new VCDS toy to check functionality of the existing pump - if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it 😉
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 · (Edited)
In which case, if it walks like a duck, quacks like a duck, chances are it is a duck 😂 so all you’ve gotta do now is wait to test out your new VCDS toy to check functionality of the existing pump - if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it 😉
I’ve hooked up my vcds and it is coming up with a haldex malfunction as the picture shows..
so does it look like my pump needs replacing?
 

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Haldex Issue -

Not necessarily a failed pump. I believe a blocked or partially blocked pump filter can cause the pump to work harder, resulting in fault code being reported due to a higher current load on the motor.

If the pump is not totally fried, a fluid and filter change may sort it. If you do this yourself, when you get the car up in the air it must be level in order to ensure the correct amount of fluid has been added. While it's out, you can also bench test the pump with a 12V source. If it runs, it's fine.

If this job is more than you want to tackle, have the shop replace the fluid and both filters. While it's up there, have the rear final drive fluid changed too. Fluid changes are cheap insurance!

Convertible Top Issue -

Bingo! Your left Roof Flap Servo has thrown a fault!

03246 - Sensor for Canopy Flap; Left (G596) - Located in the left flap servo with motor, the error occurs when the expected value for the potentiometer is below ~42 or above ~184.

The 0200 fault just means the Convertible Top Controller has locked out the center console switch to prevent automatic operation of the top. The 1097 fault is not unexpected since the top can't work in automatic mode.

Do the Roof Flap Servo R&R and clean out both of them. Then reinstall them and run the Roof Adaptation. The Adaptation will clear the fault and reset new the roof flap values with the Controller. After the Adaptation is complete, the other two faults will go away too.

And congrats! You now own a Ross Tech VCDS which is THE go-to diagnostic and repair device!
 

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Kievebuh14 said:
I’ve hooked up my vcds and it is coming up with a haldex malfunction as the picture shows..
so does it look like my pump needs replacing?
Most likey yes. Time (and fluid) is money. Wouldn't waste time cleaning and reusing your old pump especially since you have a new one in hand.
There is an outside chance that the control module is bad but that cost $$. Wouldn't go there before you've replaced the pump & filter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
I’ve tAken the servo motors out and cleaned the terminals as described in the write up. (Though they were pretty clean from grease anyway)
So looks like I might need to buy new servo motors? Or do I try run the adaptation first?

ok thanks I’ll just replace the whole Haldex pump then..
But how do you prime the system once fitted?
 

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As you’ve taken the time to do the servo R&R, you might as well use the VCDS you bought to run the adaptation to see if it all works afterwards - zero point in doing the servo repair and not trying with VCDS to see if it’s sorted which I imagine it will be.

As for the haldex, unless you really want to start benching it for ohms resistance to check functionality, your probably best off replacing it for peace of mind as if it’s the original pump, chances are it will fail sooner or later anyway.
 

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Kievebuh14 said:
But how do you prime the system once fitted?
Once parts have been fitted and fluid refilled, cycle the pump on & off a few seconds at a time using VCDS. You should be able to hear the pump change its note when fluid starts pumping. Drive around a bit and then top off.

Be sure you review threads showing where the Haldex and differential fill & drain plugs are located. Easy to confuse the two if you're not paying attention (with disastrous results)
 
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From a previous post on this same topic which is worth a read as it provides "the rest of the story" -


Quick look on Ross Tech's Wiki fault code page -

01324 - Control Module for All Wheel Drive (J492)
01316 - ABS Control Module
00448 - Haldex Clutch Pump (V181) ~ Oddly, I can't find a specific Ross Tech Wiki page for the 00448 fault code. :unsure:

00448 - Haldex Clutch Pump (V181)
011 - Open Circuit / Intermittent

00448 - Haldex Clutch Pump (V181)
002 - Lower Limit Exceeded

However I did find this while wandering through the Ross Tech Forum -

Possible Causes -
• The Pump o-ring seals can leak, filling the motor with oil which seems to dissolve the brushes ruining the motor.
• The Haldex Controller can leak (usually in wet/cold/salty/snowy etc areas), letting water in, and corroding the board.
• The connectors can also corrode in the plugs of the cable between the controller and the motor and at the controller itself.

Possible Solutions -
• Take a look at the cable and connectors on the pump and make sure they're fit for purpose; e.g. no cracks, corrosion, etc..
• Inspect the Controller for any damage, cracks, failed cover seal, etc. Verify the connectors are fit for purpose.
• Remove the pump, check the o-ring seals and pump screen and make sure the screen is not blocked.
• Remove the pump, put 12-V across the terminals to verify the pump still runs.

If the cause still remains a mystery, it might be worth contacting these guys -
Haldex Parts and ECU Repairs by Auto Fault Finder Ltd – Haldex Mail order parts and ECU repair services
Household hardware Automotive tire Rim Gas Machine tool
 
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