[BauhausBrick]

Hi everyone

I'm thinking of putting the Bilstein B12 Pro kit (with the Eibach springs) on my 2013 2.0 TT Coupe S-Line. My question is - for a 94k mile car which hasn't had the stock suspension upgraded, what else should I buy? Do I need to get new mounts and bushings too? I just want to make sure I know exactly what to get so the job can be done completely without any bits overlooked that should really have been replaced.

Cheers

B

 

[FNChaos]

For starters

Front strut mounts and bearing races​

Rear shock mounts​

Upper & lower rear spring isolators​

Rear bump stops​

Front and rear dust boots​

All new nuts / bolts / screws​

While you are under there you might consider new brake lines (if they are original) as you're will likely put some stress on the lines while moving things around.

You could wait and see, but rubber components like your anti-roll / sway bar bushings are likely dried-out / rotted and could be replaced while you have access.

And of course you'll need to have your suspension aligned after replacing your shocks / springs otherwise you're likely to damage your tires.

 

[MT-V6]

Beaten to it, I recently fitted the same kit and also replaced everything mentioned above. Only thing I would mention though is

Rear bump stops

The kit comes with these included

Also the rear damper mounts have plastic caps which can probably be reused but they are so cheap I replaced them anyway as didn't want to find out they were brittle after I had the car apart

 

[DustinC]

I'm about to undertake this task as well with my 2007 Audi TT FWD. I'm replacing absolutely everything related to the suspension. Every bush, bolt, mount, ball joint, bearing, end link, control arms, etc. Much of my rear suspension is rusty and ugly looking. It's going to cost about 2000 GBP in parts and maybe 500 GBP in labour for replacing stuff I don't feel comfortable doing myself.
I was able to look up 99% of the part numbers from the 7zap website. Do an internet search for "7Zap 2013 Audi TT" in your case and it should get you in the right direction for finding your cars info.

 

[Nidana]

A really good guide on this link that lists a lot of the part numbers also. 888110-TTS-Bilstein-B12-Pro-Kit-Install

 

[BauhausBrick]

Thanks so much all. This is super helpful.

 

[TT'sRevenge]

In addition to what has been mentioned. I'd suggest new ball joints--you're doing the job to get to them anyway, might as well replace them when there as they are very likely quite worn even if they aren't "bad" per se. Also some bolts are called out to replace with new, and some others even if not you may want to replace them anyway.

You will need triple-squares of correct sizes if you don't have them. The larger lower shock collar bolt technically isn't held in the collar by any threads (only by the nut on the other side) but it's probably rusted to crap and won't come out easy w/o spinning it, which means you will need the right bits, believe me.

Back when I did this on my A3 I went with the advice that a 1/2" square drive extension would be able to hold/turn that bolt because though I had triple-squares I didn't have that size at the time. The "single square" extension idea actually did ok, on one side. However it stripped out the head on the other one. I did get the correct size triple square thereafter but too late, it was stripped out. Tried hammering it out from the other side but it would not let go. So, I had to pull the ball joint and take the whole assembly out the car and lay it on the driveway and then smash the bejesus out of the bolt from the other side with a dead blow, just to get it out--again not held in by any threads, just rusted in there! Spinning the bolt, OTOH, will break the corrosion much more easily. Needless to say I replaced the collar bolts and nuts and spray them down with fluid film every time I have the wheels off.