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2007 Audi TT Quattro 3.2 Manual Roadster Petrol Blue & Ice Blue Nappa
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi guys, my second thread looking for a bit of advice.

I’m well overdue a service according to my book so want to do a full “belt and braces” job asap and from then on in, I’ll be doing around 4,000 miles a yr max.

ive got a very good relationship with a local garage who’ve done work for me for 10 years or so, they’ve always let me source my own parts and do me a labour only basis. I like it this way as I can control what oil goes in, parts used etc.

With that said, I’d like a bit of input as to what I need to get and part numbers etc. The common things I’m looking at are;

Spark plugs. I hope I e bought the right ones, but I’ve just bagged x6 OEM plugs for £50 delivered - part no 101905606A

Engine oil - open to suggestions as to the best to use -this one is bound to be subject to various opinions!

Air filter - looking at a performance K&N for around £60 - part no K/N33-2384. Bog standard seem to be about £15 and would need changing so thought a performance job would be good with the miles I do.

Haldex Oil & filter - I think I’m a gen 2 haldex coupling but confirmation would be great - seen an eBay seller selling gen 2 service kit for around £50 for filter fill/drain plugs seals oil and filler.

Pollen filter - can’t seem to find an OEM one? - seen various brands but which is best and what part no

Fuel filter - no info on this in service book at all, I presume there is one and it should be changed

Diff oil - spoke to a local Audi independent who said no need to change, just top up? - surely after 80k it is due a change so if it is, I believe it’s a different oil to the haldex so what would I need to get?

Brake fluid? - again, best quality and recommendations welcome

I don’t know if I’ve missed anything else, coolant was recently topped up and strength tested and okay.

Any help or advice welcomed!
Thanks in advance
Steve
 

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2007 3.2 VR6 Quattro Roadster
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Here's my two cents on this. First, don't buy anything on line (eBay, Amazon, etc.) unless you absolutely know the seller and parts are legit. Even spark plugs are being faked these days which I why I bought mine from Audi. They were 2-Euros more than on Amazon but at least I know they're OEM and they're the right ones.

I've linked a 3.2 VR6 maintenance and service post which has additional 'How to' links which also includes all the part numbers. If you don't already have one, a VCDS or OBDeleven fault scanner might be worth the investment. Since you have an older 3.2 VR6 TT like mine you can keep an eye on the cam chain stretch every so often. Also, since you have a Roadster, the VCDS is the only OBDII device out there than can do the Adaptation if your roof flaps ever throw a DTC. I have both, and the OBDeleven is nice to have in the glove box because it's handy to have for quick scans and if anything comes up while you're on the road.

Other than oil, brake fluid and coolant, I would go with Audi's fluids for the drive train components so you know they're the right ones. They may add a few extra Euros for a service you probably won't do again for another 60.000 miles or 5-6 years, but it's worth it IMHO.

• Spark plugs - Audi Parts and Service unless you have a legit source.
• Engine oil & filter - Any major oil brand that meets Audi's oil spec is fine. Go with a MANN filter.
• Air filter - Don't waste your money on a K&N. I had one before on my Honda S2000 and IMHO it's no better than a good clean Fram or MANN paper filter.
• Haldex oil & filter - There's a filter and also a screen for the pump. Use Audi's kits or order them from (https://www.haldexrepairs.co.uk/). Use Audi's recommended fluid.
• Pollen filter - MANN. The charcoal impregnated version does a better job than the plain paper element.
• Fuel filter - MANN.
• Diff oil - Ignore Audi's service suggestions. They also believe in "lifetime" fluids. Use Audi's fluid.
• Brake fluid - Any major brand that meets Audi specs.

Given the low miles you drive, just replace the oil, oil filter, air filter and cabin pollen filter once a year. I'm not driving mine nearly as much these days so this has become my maintenance routine. The air and pollen filters are super easy DIY jobs and there's really no sense paying a mechanic to do this.

Other bits and bobs -

• If you have the STronic, have the fluid changed along with the Haldex and Final drive. If you're a real stickler for details you can have the Bevel Box fluid changed although I don't know anyone that's ever had it done.
• Coolant should be flushed and replaced, not just a topped up. No such thing as lifetime anything. Use a name brand that meets the Audi spec.
• Accessory belt, tensioner and pulleys are probably due for replacement if not for mileage, but for age.
• It might be a good idea to pull the Plenum cover and make sure your HVAC intake and drains are clear or leaves and debris. (Now we're talking DIY).
• Unique to the Roadster, performing the R&R on the roof flap servos is worth the time for peace of mind. (Also DIY)
• If your battery is the original factory fitted or more than six years old, seriously consider replacing it.
• While it's up on the rack, along with the rotors and pads, have the mechanic give these rubber bits a good once over for any splits or cracks -
  • Suspension Bushings
  • Cardan shaft rubber disc
  • CV boots, inboard and outboard
  • Check the tires and rotate them
With winter just around the corner, toss on some new wiper blades while you're doing the Plenum job. And finally, give the top a good pre-winter clean and run some silicone treatment around the door, window and trunk seals so they don't freeze up and stick. Personally I like Nigrin Gummi-Pflegestift for this.

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Thanks mate, that’s very helpful indeed. I’ve already cleared out the drain points for the soft top (reservoirs behind seats which were full of crap and are now empty and clean) which was a bit of a pig of a job not being able to see much. I could just about get my hand down there and a vacuum nozzle with a smaller flexible tube taped to it did the job.

Also with my small hands I was able to get the under the plenum and do the same with the drain points there - rinse and repeat as per rear drainage points. I ran a few litres of soapy water down them all and seemed to drain properly with no overflowing.

i didn’t remove the plenum fully, so didn’t get to check the HVAC under there but I will do, just haven’t got a wiper puller.

As for the service items, I’ve spent all day trying to find OEM part numbers for various things and think I’ve come up pretty well but confirmation would be great before I buy.

Spark plugs - already bought these of what seems to be a reputable eBay seller. They were pictured new in OEM boxes and the part ref was 101905606A

On to the haldex stuff. The eBay seller I was watching is actually the same business as you linked to, but I asked them if their stuff was OEM and they replied that it wasn’t. I then phoned and researched direct with Audi who at first didn’t have a clue but then I got a helpful chap who told me the following part numbers required for the haldex gen 2

02D598574 - haldex filter
G055175A2 - haldex oil
N91082701 - drain plug
N90281802 - fill plug

Next on to rear diff oil - again Audi said it was a lifetime fluid but managed to get the following part ref

G052145S2 - Audi oem rear diff oil - couldn’t find part numbers for fill/drain plugs so any info appreciated.

Fuel filter up next

1K0201051K - oem fuel filter or Mann WK 69/2

Air filter - whilst I appreciate the initial expense of the K&N at £60, if I changing a bog standard every year then the performance panel will still be going long after I’ve paid out for four standard filters at £15 a pop, so I might just got with the K&N as with my mileage, it’s not going to need oiling in 4 yrs or 16,000 miles

Pollen filter - still researching but have seen two Mann filters, one saying it’s biofunctional cabin filter RHD, the other juststates RHD on their website. Would an OEM be better?

haven’t researched brake fluid much yet but seem to understand it’s dot4? - is it best to stick to this or can dot 5.1 or 6 be used or is that a no-no?

Engine oil, haven’t had time to check much but with my mileage, no point in going for long life oil I guess.

My brain is practically fried right now, never thought it’d be so difficult to get oem parts!
 

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2007 3.2 VR6 Quattro Roadster
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Actually you want to avoid long life oil with the 3.2 VR6. There's a really good article on the cam adjusters done by a German team and they found that the longer you wait to change the oil, the greater the risk of sludge and deposits accumulating inside the cam adjusters. Suffice to say, just change you oil once a year and you're good to go. It's cheap insurance.

Here the MANN online catalog page -

As to the pollen filter, you might want to read up on the difference and see which one you prefer.
Product Rectangle Font Material property Parallel
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Cheers, and as for the part numbers for the haldex etc I listed, do they seem to be correct for my 07 3.2 v6 roadster (manual btw) ?
 

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Air filter - whilst I appreciate the initial expense of the K&N at £60, if I changing a bog standard every year then the performance panel will still be going long after I’ve paid out for four standard filters at £15 a pop, so I might just got with the K&N as with my mileage, it’s not going to need oiling in 4 yrs or 16,000 miles
Before you purchase a K&N filter you might read this:
K&N Air Filter Review - Debunking the Myths (and why OEM is better)

Quote from the above link: "Compared to the AC, the K&N "plugged up" nearly 3 times faster, passed 18 times more dirt and captured 37% less dirt. See the data tables for a complete summary of these comparisons".

Paper filters are cheap and effective. No reason to spend more money to get worse results.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
That’s interesting, I had read that the K&N often performed badly if over oiled but ran well out of the box. I thought I’d have no plans of re-oiling one before I would just simply replace it. From what I’d read, they don’t need cleaning or oiling for many many miles and my logic was x4 standard over 4 yrs = the cost of one K&N which would last me much longer than 4 years, hence working out cheaper in the long run…….
 

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Unless you live in a really dusty environment, you don't need to change the air filter every year. I think I changed mine 2-years ago so I may swap it out next spring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Looks like standard filter it is then!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
okay, engine oil. Not long life for me but how do I tell the difference! - been looking tonight and can’t make head nor tail of long life vs normal oil so someone please put me out of my misery!
 

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okay, engine oil. Not long life for me but how do I tell the difference! - been looking tonight and can’t make head nor tail of long life vs normal oil so someone please put me out of my misery!
Depending on the age of your car and your location, Audi recommends oils that meet either VW's 502 /505 or 504 /507 specification (the second number is for diesels). All motor oils will list the various manufacture's approvals that they've applied for & been awarded. (Approvals can be found on the label or on the web)

VW 504 supersedes the 502 spec, and there is no harm using 504 in a car that's spec'ed for 502.

VW504 is considered a long-life oil. Long-life oils tend to have a higher TNB additive pack to help neutralize contaminants over a longer period (but that makes no difference if you change your oil more frequently).

In order to meet VW 504 /507 spec the oil must be 5W-30 and must be low SAP (sulfur, ash and phosphates) The viscosity is spec'ed to meet EU mileage standards and LOW SAP ensures it meets EU's emission standards (high SAP oils have more anti-wear inhibitors, but those additives can fowl a diesel's DPF).

If you want to run an oil with a different viscosity, say 0W-30 or 5W-40 it won't have VW's 504 approval (spec say's it has to be 5W-30) but lack of VW's approval in no way means the oil is inferior.

If you want to run a high SAP oil for it's enhanced anti-wear properties you can, but again it won't be listed as meeting VW's 504 /507 spec.

If you want to play it safe (or your car is still under warranty) you can't go wrong with an oil that is VW 504 / 507 approved, but that shouldn't stop you from making other choices.

Personally, I run different viscosity's for Summer & Winter (making me non-compliant) but I think you're safe using any high quality 100% synthetic as long as the viscosity is appropriate.
(FWIW, I use Pennzoil Platinum Euro – 0W-40 & 5W-40. Good enough for Ferrari, good enough for me :cool:)
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
I spoke via web chat to a guy at opie oils and he advised using 5w40 fully synthetic and emailed me a link to a list of oils


I’m still at a bit of a loss, my handbook says 502 00 / 504 00 for fixed service and 503 01 / 504 00 for long life.

recommendations for which to go for from that link for my 3.2 v6 appreciated!

I was reading other threads on the forum and someone stated that the v6 didn’t like 5w30 oil on fixed service schedule……
 

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Shell Helix (which is the same as Pennzoil Platinum Plus), Mobile1 and Castrol Edge (first three brands that came up on your opieoils.co.uk weblink) are all perfectly acceptable and easily obtainable at any auto-parts store. No reason to over think it.

For reference, when choosing a motor oil, the first number represents the oil's 'thickness' or viscosity when it is cold (the "W" in 5W stands for 'winter'). A thinner oil causes less drag during cold weather starting. If you live in a climate where winter temps are often below freezing, an oil with a viscosity rating of 0W might be a better choice than 504/507's spec'ed rating of 5W.

The second number is the viscosity of an oil when it is heated to operating temp. Since oil thins out with heat, a thicker oil might be more appropriate for a hard-running modified motor, (but could cause additional drag / lower mpg during normal street driving). Also, some people run thicker oil to compensate for a motor that is known to burn oil since thicker oil is less likely to slip past your piston rings.

Synthetic oils can handle heat better before they start to break down. For this reason Synthetics are almost always recommended for turbo engines (turbo's get hot). On a NA engine, dino / dino-synthetic blends are fine (and cheaper)

Both 5W-30 & 5W-40 will fine to use in your V6.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks again for that great informative post.

Iv been thinking of going for the Shell Helix Ultra 5w40 from that link, the spec of it appears to be VW 502 505, so from my understanding it is suited to a VW/Audi fixed service interval. Some of the others don’t have any VAG certification.

I‘m in the UK, whilst it does get cold, it’s pretty rare to drop below -10c in the winter
 

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Oil can turn into a very long discussion and like tires, everyone has a favorite. I've used Castrol 5W30 on pretty much every car I've owned and have never experienced an oil-related failure. Then again, I change my oil once a year or every 5,000mi (8,000km). Sure, that may be more frequent than is actually necessary, but to me it's cheap insurance. Oil's not that expensive and when I'm under the car, it gives me a chance to look around and see if anything else needs attention. Generally speaking, 5W30 oil can function in temperatures as low as -30ºC and as high as 40ºC and I'm never driving in either extreme.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I’ll be changing the oil every 12mths regardless of my mileage which is likely to between 3-4,000 miles per year. I suppose I’m over thinking it, just want to make sure I’m not putting the wrong stuff in and getting the best for the engine really.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Back to the subject of haldex - I’ve just been liaising with an Audi independent about getting the filter and oil. Whilst he gave me the correct part number for the gen 2 filter, he said I’d need to provide him with the three letter code stamped into the axle so he could get the correct oil.

Does that sound right? - I don’t have the means right now to get under the car to find it, nor do I know if I have to remove inspection covers to see it.
 

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I wonder if he means the three letter code on the Haldex case?? Here you can see mine which is marked "JUY". You can try placing your smart phone on a piece of card board or something, put it on video and slide it under the rear end. You might be able to see it that way without lifting the car
.
Here's is a reference to it in the Workshop Manual Rear Final Drive & Haldex - RG 39 - D3E80023195. You can download it from the KB -

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You shouldn't need the code just to order oil.

According to Matthew @haldexrepairs.co,uk, Haldex oil is Haldex oil whether it is branded for Audi, Volvo or Saab.
See: Haldex Oil and Filter - Filter for life?

Cut from the above link:
"You can buy a bottle of oil from Volvo, Ford, VAG, Landrover or Vauxhall - they all have very different price tags, a different branded label, but the same blow moulded plastic bottles get filled with exactly the same fluid on the same bottle packing line in Hungary, I have examples of a few brands of oil here in front of me, and after many long conversations with a supplier who has been to the Hungary plant many times I have found out all sorts of strange things."

P/N G055175A2 will get you 1 liter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thanks again fella’s. I’ll try the phone video thing tomorrow.

Again, on the subject of Haldex, I was given two part numbers from a genuine Audi dealer for the fill/drain plugs for the haldex which were

N91082701 - drain
N90281802 - fill

In true Audi style, they couldn’t give me part numbers for the fill/drain plugs for the rear diff fluid change as they said it was a “lifetime oil” 🤔

I did a Google of the above numbers and some results came back for the same part numbers for the rear diff - are they the same or do I need different plugs or have Audi given me the wrong details for the haldex plugs!
 
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