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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello friends,

I’ve joined the club and bought a 1.8 180 mk1 the other day privately from a guy in Glasgow. Unfortunately it’s needing such a lot of work done on it, I have no idea how it passed an MOT last month. I’ve had it checked by Kwik fit and an independent in Irvine, and they would both fail it on an MOT. It needs £1200 to pass an mot and £2500 to do all the advisory’s. The car has done 40 miles since that MOT in December was done. Strangely it’s had 3 MIT certificates produced in the last 14 months.
the exhaust needs done - has anyone bought the one from Autoparts? It’s about £510 for the whole thing. But kwik fit would be over £650 just for a few parts.
the electrics aren’t working well, the windows go down of their own accord sometimes and the drivers window drop down and up isn’t working when opening and closing the door. The central locking triggers on its own.

the engine is doing a really weird thing above about 60 mph where it kind of Yo-Yos back and forward and repeatedly revs.
With so much work needing done, what would your advice be? Try and do it bit by bit as a Labour of love, or should I get the engine looked at first (if I can’t get that to be repaired properly what’s the point in doing the rest?!)

so disappointed I wasn’t able to see its condition prior to buying i trusted the guy. But I love the car and am tempted to put in the money..
 

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Jesus.... if you are going to rely on kwik fit to maintain your TT you have bought the wrong project car..

Nethertheless it does have an MOT, maybe it got a fault since then..

Get vcdslite free download from rosstech and a cheap blue kkl odb2 lead from ebay. It'll cost you under a tenner. Install the program on a Windows laptop after the cable and follow the instructions online. You'll need to use this tool and similar, to scan and clear codes.

No point in guessing all the issues.

Tire Light Product Automotive tire Automotive design


 

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Is this a private or garage sale ? I'd be contacting Gov.uk about possible MOT fraud on this number 0800 030 4103

Did you buy it from a private seller?
When you buy from an individual (as opposed to a retailer), the Consumer Rights Act says that the goods you get must be as they were described to you by the seller.
There's no obligation on the seller to disclose any faults, but misrepresenting goods isn't allowed.
For example, something second-hand should not be described as new. If it is, the seller will be in breach of contract.
But putting things right can be tricky. If you can’t reach an agreement between yourselves you’ll have to try alternative dispute resolution or the small claims court.
 

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Drivers side not dropping down will be the micro switch in the door (which will also cause the central locking to lock as it doesnt see the door being opened so will relock the car after a minute), you can get either replacement door mechs from from china or a new micro switch via ebay Right Door Sensor Lock Micro Switch For Octavia Fabia Superb Passat B5 Bora Golf | eBay . Have a look on you tube at BWS TT he has a how to video on replacement plus loads of other useful guides, along with Parrot Bros and the knowledge base section on here.

VCSD as recommended above or a bluetooth OBD2 dongle and the torque pro app is another cheap option which will allow you to monitor boost (or install a boost gauge).

What part of the exhaust has failed? You may not need a complete exhaust or you could pick up a second hand one of ebay or facebook market place, you can also fit a 225 twin exhaust I believe as an alternative option (225 rear insert required)

If your not up to a a bit of diy try finding a VAG specialist rather than kwikfit quick search has these, I've no idea what there like thou:
Audi Repair Garage in Glasgow | Audi Technik Centre
Audi VW Repair Specialist Glasgow - Audi VW Repair Specialist Glasgow
 

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.... sorry to hear you've had a bad start to your TT ownership! If I were you I'd get some pen and paper and start to make a list of everything that you think is wrong with the car and whether it's something that's urgent or something you can live with. For example, the window drop isn't the end of the world and is actually a relatively cheap and easy fix. The exhaust could be replaced by a second hand system at not too much cost either. Obviously you'll know the other things listed on the MOT failure and without knowing what they are it's hard to work out whether they are expensive jobs or not.

I'm just getting to the end of the first year of ownership and have done a lot of the jobs. Where possible using second hand parts and advice from this forum and its members. If I had got a garage to do them it would have cost a fortune.

Investing in a code reader is sound advice and a really good start. Post up the codes that you find or search the forum and I bet someone else has had the same problem. There may be other TT owners in you area who can help? It may not be as bad as you think!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Is this a private or garage sale ? I'd be contacting Gov.uk about possible MOT fraud on this number 0800 030 4103

Did you buy it from a private seller?
When you buy from an individual (as opposed to a retailer), the Consumer Rights Act says that the goods you get must be as they were described to you by the seller.
There's no obligation on the seller to disclose any faults, but misrepresenting goods isn't allowed.
For example, something second-hand should not be described as new. If it is, the seller will be in breach of contract.
But putting things right can be tricky. If you can’t reach an agreement between yourselves you’ll have to try alternative dispute resolution or the small claims court.
.... sorry to hear you've had a bad start to your TT ownership! If I were you I'd get some pen and paper and start to make a list of everything that you think is wrong with the car and whether it's something that's urgent or something you can live with. For example, the window drop isn't the end of the world and is actually a relatively cheap and easy fix. The exhaust could be replaced by a second hand system at not too much cost either. Obviously you'll know the other things listed on the MOT failure and without knowing what they are it's hard to work out whether they are expensive jobs or not.

I'm just getting to the end of the first year of ownership and have done a lot of the jobs. Where possible using second hand parts and advice from this forum and its members. If I had got a garage to do them it would have cost a fortune.

Investing in a code reader is sound advice and a really good start. Post up the codes that you find or search the forum and I bet someone else has had the same problem. There may be other TT owners in you area who can help? It may not be as bad as you think!!
Thanks everyone for your awesome advice. Here is a list of things needing done from Kwik Fit! I’m gonna try and take out the tape player audio unit using the spacial metal things I bought for it, no luck so far...
Font Book Paper product Paper Document
 

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On that list, are F the failure points and A the advisories?
If so the list isn’t too bad and I’d take it with a pinch of salt , especially from Kwik-Fit 😒.
TTs tend to look scruffy underneath, even the good condition ones!
A lick of paint & wax etc underneath on the subframes can work wonders.
 

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That list doesnt look like the end of the world to me. Exhaust and Spring looks to be the hardest work but even then they are diy-able depending on how confident you are.
Some of these advisories are noting corrosion - that can just be surface rust. it comes down to how fussy your tester is (or how muchwork they think they can get out of you).

I wouldnt give up just yet, but i probably wouldnt be worrying too much about the tape deck just yet either.
 

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When I had my T25 camper van MOT'd the first time they turned the engine off when the expansion tank cap blew hot water all over the inspector standing under the car - it passed- .as the engine wasn't needed until later on for the brakes - so it could cool down, and I had to change gear for them as 1st was difficult - I also wiggled the wires under the dash to get the dash awake.

as others said there's only a handful of apparent F's - bulbs blow, tyres wear out, springs break, my hazard switch broke the day after I collected the car too. - Imagine calling the old bill on an MOT station who MOT'd a car a month ago, what expert witness are you going to call to say no-one skidded on a road & wore the tyre down then hit a pot hole to break a spring and then tried to put the hazards on by bashing the button, and moved it off the road over a high curb and caused an exhaust leak? and how do they know the NSF indicator isn't working if the hazard switch is also broken?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Drivers side not dropping down will be the micro switch in the door (which will also cause the central locking to lock as it doesnt see the door being opened so will relock the car after a minute), you can get either replacement door mechs from from china or a new micro switch via ebay Right Door Sensor Lock Micro Switch For Octavia Fabia Superb Passat B5 Bora Golf | eBay . Have a look on you tube at BWS TT he has a how to video on replacement plus loads of other useful guides, along with Parrot Bros and the knowledge base section on here.

VCSD as recommended above or a bluetooth OBD2 dongle and the torque pro app is another cheap option which will allow you to monitor boost (or install a boost gauge).

What part of the exhaust has failed? You may not need a complete exhaust or you could pick up a second hand one of ebay or facebook market place, you can also fit a 225 twin exhaust I believe as an alternative option (225 rear insert required)

If your not up to a a bit of diy try finding a VAG specialist rather than kwikfit quick search has these, I've no idea what there like thou:
Audi Repair Garage in Glasgow | Audi Technik Centre
Audi VW Repair Specialist Glasgow - Audi VW Repair Specialist Glasgow
Thanks so much for your help, I’ve bought microswitches. Hopefully by replacing them it would solve the central locking system issue.The garages you’ve found look excellent!

I took out the hazard switch yesterday and connected the button to it but it still doesn’t work. How can this have passed an mot 40 miles and one month ago!?
I think I’ll need to take the switch to bits and see if there’s rust of something inside it there is instructions on how to do that elsewhere on the forum I think. The wires behind the original tape/radio player have been snipped and tried to be repaired but there is no power to the audio box at all, not sure what to do about this. Can I buy a set of new wires for the box and where would I be connecting them through/to?! Ill take a look at the obd2 etc certainly the app one looks cool
 

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"How can this have passed an mot 40 miles and one month ago!?"

It does happen. I recently returned to Mk1 TT ownership having been without one since 2005. I bought a 3.2 which had been off the road for a while. Recommissioned it and ironed out all bugs and got everything working as it should. Went for MOT, and the indicators wouldn't work which turned out to be the hazard switch, but they'd worked perfectly on the drive there 5 minutes ago. So, I wouldn't overthink it. These things can fail at any time.
 

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A hazard switch breaks instantly, you were just unlucky. Like I said mine died a day or two after picking up the car. £40 for a new one.

An MOT is not a guarantee, the car could be illegal 5 minutes later, whilst being reversed out the carpark.

And you know of course there's somethings an MOT is not allowed to touch? Any thing that covers something, or grease so putting grease over brakes pipes, they cannot touch - but with no grease, they can comment on the visible corrosion.
 

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As Stuartdb points out. I had an advisory for corrsion on my brake line where the painted coating had peeled away.
A bit of lithium grease on it for the next MOT and the advisory was removed.

Failing on a spring coudl be a completly msashed up spring or the last centemetre of the spring spanning off - you wouldnt even notice the latter apart from maybe a little knock every now and again.

I get that this is is frustrating and putting a dampener on the car purchase for you but these are cars that keep on giving with regards to faults etc so if you didnt have to do it now its more than likely that you'd have needed to do it a bit further down the line.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
When I had my T25 camper van MOT'd the first time they turned the engine off when the expansion tank cap blew hot water all over the inspector standing under the car - it passed- .as the engine wasn't needed until later on for the brakes - so it could cool down, and I had to change gear for them as 1st was difficult - I also wiggled the wires under the dash to get the dash awake.

as others said there's only a handful of apparent F's - bulbs blow, tyres wear out, springs break, my hazard switch broke the day after I collected the car too. - Imagine calling the old bill on an MOT station who MOT'd a car a month ago, what expert witness are you going to call to say no-one skidded on a road & wore the tyre down then hit a pot hole to break a spring and then tried to put the hazards on by bashing the button, and moved it off the road over a high curb and caused an exhaust leak? and how do they know the NSF indicator isn't working if the hazard switch is also broken?
sounds like a project but like others have said you do need to do a scan to see what is going on, the micro switches can be changed by soldering a new one on or buy the complete part (that's what I did) only £25 a side a fairly easy to swap out.
Thanks man I’ve got switches for £9.99 a side in Amazon!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
A hazard switch breaks instantly, you were just unlucky. Like I said mine died a day or two after picking up the car. £40 for a new one.

An MOT is not a guarantee, the car could be illegal 5 minutes later, whilst being reversed out the carpark.

And you know of course there's somethings an MOT is not allowed to touch? Any thing that covers something, or grease so putting grease over brakes pipes, they cannot touch - but with no grease, they can comment on the visible corrosion.
I’ve tried with 2 hazard switches now - the type WBS - ZUSF - OMR. And neither of them work..... could be electrical then?!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Drivers side not dropping down will be the micro switch in the door (which will also cause the central locking to lock as it doesnt see the door being opened so will relock the car after a minute), you can get either replacement door mechs from from china or a new micro switch via ebay Right Door Sensor Lock Micro Switch For Octavia Fabia Superb Passat B5 Bora Golf | eBay . Have a look on you tube at BWS TT he has a how to video on replacement plus loads of other useful guides, along with Parrot Bros and the knowledge base section on here.

VCSD as recommended above or a bluetooth OBD2 dongle and the torque pro app is another cheap option which will allow you to monitor boost (or install a boost gauge).

What part of the exhaust has failed? You may not need a complete exhaust or you could pick up a second hand one of ebay or facebook market place, you can also fit a 225 twin exhaust I believe as an alternative option (225 rear insert required)

If your not up to a a bit of diy try finding a VAG specialist rather than kwikfit quick search has these, I've no idea what there like thou:
Audi Repair Garage in Glasgow | Audi Technik Centre
Audi VW Repair Specialist Glasgow - Audi VW Repair Specialist Glasgow
Thanks for your help. I’ve tried 2 hazard switches and neither work. I’ve taken them apart and they look ok. The right indicator works but not the left. The bulb is needing replaced. Could that cause the hazards to completely not work?!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks for your help. I’ve tried 2 hazard switches and neither work. I’ve taken them apart and they look ok. The right indicator works but not the left. The bulb is needing replaced. Could that cause the hazards to completely not work?!
Figured it out the fuse had been removed!!!
 

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The hazard switch has 2 circuits inside, 1 for hazard and 1 for indicators. Both fed from different fuses. 39 for the hazard circuit
 
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