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TTS 2010
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm looking at upgrading my OE TTS brakes for track use specifically. 6-pot 18z is one candidate of course. (Not 17z as those are limited to 330mm and I'd like larger 2-piece discs.)
The current slotted OE 340mm setup is just about fine for light track use combined with decent pads but they literally burn under heavy use after a few laps so this is not sustainable. And yes I'm using the best tyres, fluid and brake lines I can afford already, driving with ESP off etc.

My goals are:
- support larger 2-piece discs (18z goes up to 358mm?)
- support a wide range of pads
- be able to sustain a few laps without burning with smoke
- easily replaceable pads (OE is pain to replace, it would be nice to quickly swap road pads for track ones)
- less weight compared to OE
- be road-legal (TÜV, CE etc.)
- total budget under £1500 (calipers, discs, hoses, pads, bolts, brackets)

So 18z (WVA-23693) combined with some not too expensive 2-piece semi-floating discs and some track-oriented but still road legal pads would be a sweet spot.

So far I found some sensible offers for calipers:
* https://pwmotorsport.com/pr,140,brembo- ... 2kits.html
* https://sf-tuning.co.uk/p/big-brake-kit ... -8p-tt-mk2

But for the discs which would fit this setup not much luck, only some expensive options:
* https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-parts/f ... a3s5bbkkt/
* I've seen some 350x32mm rotors but with no hats matching TTS
* It seems possible to source a custom 355x32mm set from Reyland for about £700 but I heard they are not so good
* Mercedes ML420/ML55 AMG/GL450 1-piece discs are not an option - too heavy, little advantage, require a sprigot ring

Then of course there is an issue of making sure these are actually Brembos not fakes or purely refurbished ones: https://www.brembo.com/en/company/news/ ... zing-fakes

Anyone running 18z on 8J at all ? What discs then ? Any pointers appreciated.
 

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I approached a company here who specialises in brake pads and rotors. They were happy to work with me to ensure i got the top hat i needed for the platform and the correct sized rotor for the caliper.

I pretty much said tophat - for audi tt Mk2, rotor size (the dimensions of the mercedes rotor) and they made it happen.

Was perfect fitment and have taken the setup on a track day where it defintiely rescued me from crashing into another car who spun out in front of me.

You can see the Forza rotors (2 piece, floating) in my install video by clicking here.

The company - Brakes Direct (Australia) - are excellent to deal with and will easily adjust the spec for 18z's. Hopefully they can direct you for suppliers more local to you too. Hope that helps!
 

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I have 18Zs on my A3. Caliper bolts directly to the knuckle, and I imagine the same is the case for the TT. Only issue is the stock rotors from vehicles that use these calipers (Cayenne/T'Reg/Q7) will not work.

I have the ECS 2pc rotors but even though they are decent I wouldn't use them for track. For auto-x, sure, but consistent track use? Ehhh, they're not really designed for it. For one thing they are drilled and there's no option for slotted only (ECS has been asked this many times but I guess not), plus they aren't true "floating hat" 2pc rotors, they're what they call "semi floating" which really means they are just straight up bolted to the disc or "ring" lol.

You will need bolts to mount the calipers (ECS don't sell theirs outside of their kits IIRC, but others like RB and Rotorlab do) and then of course rotors and lines. Interestingly Rotorlab insists these are "thread-in" line ports on the 18Zs (which they are) and that you should not use banjo bolts, but both ECS and RB's kits use banjo bolts lol. I've had mine on for ~3 years now, never had an issue with the lines, so I don't think there's a real issue with banjo bolt lines.

For rotors, instead of ECS you'd probably be better off with the 18Z rotors for this application from RB (Racing Brake) for track use:
https://racingbrake.com/2212

Girodisc makes 18Z rotor rings but not sure about the hats, plus I think they are for older gen A4s, I'm not sure they will fit a PQ35 car. Also even the ECS and RB ones, we're assuming that Mk5/6 Golf and 8P A3s will have the caliper sit the same and you'll be able to use the same rotor on the TT which I'm not sure is true? ECS doesn't even list the TT in the list of cars supported.

For example, even talking about the stock brakes, it's true the Mk2 TT-S uses the same calipers as the Mk6 Golf .:R, but the rotors are different. Neither the front or rear rotor from an .:R will fit--the front rotors on the TT are 5mm smaller, the rear have a significantly higher "hat" height--I know the latter because I inadvertently bought Raybestos .:R rotors which were listed as also fitting the TT-S only to find out they don't fit. Had to return and get Zimmermans which were correct for the TT. Rear rotors are the same size, just a totally different hat height. This is just to illustrate that even the same calipers on a similar car doesn't mean the same rotors work because the same caliper can sit differently on the knuckle/upright/spindle.

I wouldn't go down the "modified MB rotors" route for track use. Would be fine and cheaper if you want them more for looks and street use but if you want track-worthy rotors you'll need something much better. they aren't going to be cheap, and will certainly cost over $1k/pr.

I don't think you really have to worry about reman calipers--calipers are remanufactured by various companies all the time and sold in the aftermarket as replacements. I paid significantly less buying Nugeon reman 18Zs than buying anywhere else--including buying used 18Zs off eBay, etc.! In fact I didn't even have cores to return so I couldn't claim the core charge yet I still paid only about $200 CAD each (plus taxes/duty/shipping) for each one. Nugeon gives lifetime warranty on reman calipers too, but I dunno if they even sell in UK market, but surely some other big brake company does.

The one little thing I did have to get off eBay were the genuine Brembo bleeder caps as the reman calipers came with all new hardware but no bleeder caps! So I got two pair of genuine Brembo ones off eBay for like $20 (there's two bleeders per caliper).

The other thing you're going to have fun with...is wheel fit afterwards. I have five sets of spacers lol. If you're only using one set of wheels on the car and will not be changing them, then you'll probably just figure out what spacer you need (if you even need one) and just have the one pair...
 

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TTS 2010
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the insight. After doing more reading about all this, I changed my mind and ordered a brand new set of K-Sport 8-pot 356x32 floating 2-piece.
The pads for them are standard and easy to source, the replacement rotors are on UK market as well in sensible prices. They are not the best one can buy, but definitely not overpriced like some Euro brands.
I noticed many opinions on the internet about BBK in general come from people who never track they cars, or use wrong pads for their driving purpose, or didn't bleed properly, or refer to the early models which had different design altogether.
Once I install them I'll probably write more about my experience.
 

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nigh7swimming said:
Thanks for the insight. After doing more reading about all this, I changed my mind and ordered a brand new set of K-Sport 8-pot 356x32 floating 2-piece.
The pads for them are standard and easy to source, the replacement rotors are on UK market as well in sensible prices. They are not the best one can buy, but definitely not overpriced like some Euro brands.
I noticed many opinions on the internet about BBK in general come from people who never track they cars, or use wrong pads for their driving purpose, or didn't bleed properly, or refer to the early models which had different design altogether.
Once I install them I'll probably write more about my experience.
Yeah would love to hear the results. However I would note that 356 sounds pretty huge, hopefully you have 19"+ wheels...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Here's the summary of my installation of K-Sport 8pot 356x32mm BBK with slotted floating discs on a 8J TTS.
I hope someone will find this useful. I spent some time researching the topic of BBK upgrade for 8J and KSport looked like the best option for my use case. It may not be in your case.

Ordering and delivery
  • the packaging is really good and secure, no unnecessary filling stuff;
  • the UK distributor keept me updated frequently;
  • I'm impressed with production quality, clearly they have a QC process in place;
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The good
  • installation doesn't get easier than this: 2 bolts for the carrier, 2 for the caliper, brake line, job done;
  • calipers are quite lightweight yet very solid;
  • I didn't have to use any spacers, the whole set just fits perfectly;
  • pads can be inserted from the bottom before the first installation;
  • calipers clear standard OE TTS 18" wheels (offset 52);
  • OE splash shields do not need any cutting to fit;
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The bad
  • the brake lines provided are a bit short, not too short but I'd feel more comfortable if they had like 2cm more;
  • I had to wait extra and paid for air dispatch because of the floating discs. They only keep the most popular items in UK stock. On the flip side I got the parts straight out of the factory.
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The ugly
  • the discs do not have a mounting screw hole which is a bit of an issue when the hub is turned; I suppose this is a DIY case to drill holes as the hats are alluminium;
  • they should really hire an English translator as the manual is only English-like;
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Installation tips
  • First make sure you have all the tools required:
    • spanners 10,11,17
    • sockets 21,22 (mind the new bolts are 22mm as opposed to OE which are 21mm)
    • allen bit T55
    • 2x hex bit 5 for the anti-rattle springs
    • something to remove the notorious brake line springs, pliers
    • long torque wrench 90Nm (ideally 90-200+ range)
    • small torque wrench 25Nm (but ideally 15-30 range)
    • brake cleaner
    • some arrangement to bleed the brake fluid (I used a pressurized bleeder)
    • blade gauge set
  • I had issues with 2 of the old carrier bolts. I was using a mains-powered impact wrench with 200Nm power and it wasn't enough. Had to play with wd40 and a heat gun for a few minutes to heat the carrier, only then they let go. I blame the mechanic who installed them for me.
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As for the driving experience, I only just completed test rides and bedding-in.
I went with EBC bluestuff pads as I had them on OE TTS brakes so my thinking was I'd be comparing apples to apples in terms of pad compound.
Basically after 5 minutes of driving I was already impressed with the stopping power. The OE set already stopped well but this is just insane. Feels like a Superman pushing the car from the front to stop it, and it stops. It's not abrupt though, smooth and controllable.
Bedding in was a pleasure too - don't stop until you smell the pads!
There are no vibrations whatsoever at motorway speeds. No strange noises or anything. I didn't have to calibrate anything either, maybe I was lucky but apparently all the parts are precise and within OE tolerances. The user manual describes exactly how to calibrate the setup in case you have issues though.

Now in terms of weight reduction.. I weighted my old OE setup and got 38.2kg in total: calipers, carriers, pads, EBC slotted 340x30mm discs. Now the KSport setup weights.. 29.6kg in total, that is 8.5kg saving of unsprung weight on the front axle!
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My plan now is to keep driving and see if the pattern on the discs is even and stopping improves even more - it should.
Once happy I'll take it to a track and see how the air ducts behave with the rotors. I can already see the rotors do need proper air flow from behind and I believe I have all one can have on a TTS: air ducts, air scoops, TTRS arch liners. I expect no more overheating.

More pics:
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Really nice, glad to hear it worked out so well! I'm guessing this was not by any means a lower-cost option but everything looks fantastic and as you indicate no issues with wheel fitment, etc. You know if I could go back I might be inclined to have spent the extra money compared to going the 18Z route on my A3, for the simplicity of something like what you got there ;) But, in my case, what's done is done.

Also nice to see I'm not the only one with an S and 18" factory wheels haha--in US 19" was standard, Canada the 19" was an option--looks like in UK it was the same but then I think many more things are options in UK in general as you guys have various things and combinations we didn't really get here. Annoying part is my TTS had every option you could get over here except the baseball leather...and the 19" wheels lol. Anyway I'm "old" now so I'm comforted I have more sidewall height on the tyres for better ride haha.
 

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TTS 2010
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I'm guessing this was not by any means a lower-cost option..
Well all things considered it was in the top 3 in terms of the overall cost. Definitely top 1 in terms of time spent on the upgrade. Long term it's supposed to save me time and money as replacing pads on those is dead easy. And I hope they will last longer too.
I'm on 18" as this is supposedly the most efficient setup for the track, although I can imagine the cooling on 19" would be better. I'm going to be upgrading to lightweight alloys next year so I expect more space there and so ever better cooling.
 
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