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This must be really frustrating!
Time to revisit the basics?
Can you get, ir do you have, a multimeter? It will be much quicker for you and save on replacement fuses too ;-)
Pull fuse 20. That isolates the wiring to the light from the fuse box.
Measure the resistance to ground, i.e aby 3xposed metal of the body, or the ground point under the steering wheel. It will be between 0 and something like 60 ohms ( the filament of the bulb).
Pull the bulb out of the headlight and disconnect it from the wiring. Check resistance again. If it goes to infinity or just high then the bulb is the culprit.
Cgeck the bulb connector, is it browned or blackened due to overheating? The terminals may be touching each other, or something touching both.
If the resistance to ground is still 0, pull the LCM, does that change things?
If, with bulb and lcm pulled resustance is still 0, then switch your meter to continuity ("beep") mode. It will beep all the time there is a circuit to ground. Leave it beeping whilst you tap, pull, push and twist the wiring loom from the headlight back to the bulkhead. If yoy find a point where physical movement interrupts the beep, then that is where to start digging. If that goes well, repeat inside the cabin from bulkhead to fuse box ...
My guess is the bulb or its connector though:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
This must be really frustrating!
Time to revisit the basics?
Can you get, ir do you have, a multimeter? It will be much quicker for you and save on replacement fuses too ;-)
Pull fuse 20. That isolates the wiring to the light from the fuse box.
Measure the resistance to ground, i.e aby 3xposed metal of the body, or the ground point under the steering wheel. It will be between 0 and something like 60 ohms ( the filament of the bulb).
Pull the bulb out of the headlight and disconnect it from the wiring. Check resistance again. If it goes to infinity or just high then the bulb is the culprit.
Cgeck the bulb connector, is it browned or blackened due to overheating? The terminals may be touching each other, or something touching both.
If the resistance to ground is still 0, pull the LCM, does that change things?
If, with bulb and lcm pulled resustance is still 0, then switch your meter to continuity ("beep") mode. It will beep all the time there is a circuit to ground. Leave it beeping whilst you tap, pull, push and twist the wiring loom from the headlight back to the bulkhead. If yoy find a point where physical movement interrupts the beep, then that is where to start digging. If that goes well, repeat inside the cabin from bulkhead to fuse box ...
My guess is the bulb or its connector though:)
Thanks this is some gold nugget advice.

I also discovered a stolen car tracking device spliced into the wiring aswell. I'm currently removing all spliced in tech. Someone already tried before me to find the problem it seems. The tracking unit wires has been cut that was spliced in. So it tells me the tracking unit gave problems at one point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Ok. So I'm almost sure the short is between the fusebox and LCM. But can't find it. I do however need help with the following in the pic please. What is the or a "driver info system"? And what does "wo" and "wd" abbreviate?
Rectangle Line Parallel Font Slope
 

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Ok. So I'm almost sure the short is between the fusebox and LCM. But can't find it. I do however need help with the following in the pic please. What is the or a "driver info system"? And what does "wo" and "wd" abbreviate? View attachment 484279
"Driver Info System" is the dash. Specifically the centre screen.

without Driver Info System (ie a basic 180)
or
with Driver Info System (ie a 225)
 

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Without DIS, the yellow wire goes direct from fuse to lamp, with DIS, it passes through the module that monitors the current to the lamp. If no, or low current it'll trigger a bulb failure in the DIS. Only one side dipped beam is monitored. No DIS = no monitor module.
Mac
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Update: I feel like a numbnu+. After many intimate hours in side the dashboard and engine bay I got to a point of defeat. And today enjoying a lovely cup of coffee it hit me. And yes this is precisely the case of " check for the most probable or easy fault".

The initial problem was the right side dipped beam blowing fuses. So one would assume if the left side lights work perfectly than one should assume the problem is not there. But looking at the wiring diagram, fuse 20 also runs the dipped beam motor on the left side light.

But as they say a picture paints a thousand words.
 

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Hey guys sorry to hijack this thread but it's relatively recent and I'm facing a similar issue. Fuse 11 kept blowing when I plugged in the headlights and tracked it down to a short inside the headlights like the pic above. Now both low beams work but only when plugged into the RIGHT headlight plug. Neither work when plugged into the left connector. So there's a short in the connector or left harness correct? Thanks for any insight!
Best,
Fitz
 

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Hey guys sorry to hijack this thread but it's relatively recent and I'm facing a similar issue. Fuse 11 kept blowing when I plugged in the headlights and tracked it down to a short inside the headlights like the pic above. Now both low beams work but only when plugged into the RIGHT headlight plug. Neither work when plugged into the left connector. So there's a short in the connector or left harness correct? Thanks for any insight!
Best,
Fitz
If the bulb doesn't work in the left, but no fuse blows, it's probably an open circuit.
circuit. Separate fuses for left and right, and main and dipped, so, four fuses.
Mac.
 

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If the bulb doesn't work in the left, but no fuse blows, it's probably an open circuit.
circuit. Separate fuses for left and right, and main and dipped, so, four fuses.
Mac.
If both fuses are OK, suspect the neg/ground wire is the problem, as it's common to main and dip beams.
Mac.
 
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