Your 100% right….. I’ve decided I’m going to helicoil the one already fitted to the engine as it’s less headache and will be stronger than the original soft metal.If memory serves me correct (from doing the cam belt on my BAM 18 months ago) that bracket will only wiggle free once the engine has been jacked up far enough AND the water pump has been removed .
I definitely remember having to have the engine mount bracket in-situ before the water pump was installed…..
Am sure someone can correct me if I’m wrong!
Ohhhh I’ve learnt a valuable lesson, that’s possibly how I got in this predicament…. following my Haynes and not checking the forum as well which I normally would do. However on removing the original bolts they took some of the thread with them. I think it’s as a result of being done up way too tight by the person who replaced my engine a few years back.Sounds like a plan.
Just remember when you have helicoiled the mount not to follow the manuals torque figure as most of them give far too high a figure , which often causes the threads to strip out.
Yes it doesn’t seem to be all that well known about, have to say that I found out about it from this very forum!Ohhhh I’ve learnt a valuable lesson, that’s possibly how I got in this predicament…. following my Haynes and not checking the forum as well which I normally would do. However on removing the original bolts they took some of the thread with them. I think it’s as a result of being done up way too tight by the person who replaced my engine a few years back.
We live and learn just want to get it sorted so i can crack on with the passenger side.
Hoping the 034 Motorsport mounts are worth all this trouble as this has been a nightmare.
Yeah they are 60nm + quarter turn.Glad you got it sorted , you didn’t torque to 60nm + 1/4 turn though did you?
85nm with no turn is ample?
I’m talking about the bolts into the aluminium engine mount here , the bolts into the steel body are fine to use the nm figure + angular turn.
It’s definitely 60nm dry with Audi bolts. I’ve read Johns post and to be fair the cause of his issue was the same as mine. When I removed the original bolts some of the aluminium came out with the old bolts when the new bolts went in the original thread was already damaged. I attempted to re-tap them and couldn’t get anywhere near 60nm before they gave way, therefore requiring a new mount which I got just thought it would be easier to repair the existing mount than mess with the timing belt. I think it couldn’t be avoided as they have been in for 21 years.Fair enough if you’ve helicoiled them but as per the post by John-H that I quoted above he reckons that 60nm + 1/4 turn equates to 320nm and that the manuals only state 80nm with no turn for the gearbox side mount.
IIRC the 2 smaller mount bolts into the steel captive nuts of the body are 40nm + 1/4 turn but they don’t give any problems as the bolts stretch as they are designed to do.
That was definitely what caused my issue I had an engine replacement and unfortunately the mechanic didn’t do some things as well as they should have, needless to say I’m now even more picky about who works on my car.I was lucky with mine then as I tightened the large bolts to just 85Nm and no more , just guess I was fortunate that nobody in the past had overtightened them…
I agree. I use mine as a guide as they vary in accuracy even though they are calibrated.I don't really bother with torque wrenches for most normal bolts, unless they are new stretch bolts, hidden after fitting something else, head bolts, or loads or little.
You know when something is tight and whether it is small or big. Definitely no extra 1/4 turn on reusing pre-stretched bolt.
So I will do for the wheel hubs because the bearings need them, and it needs to be hundreds, so I need a bigger torque wrench anyway. But even that.. you could probably just get away with really tight, tighter, then an extra 90° with the up downs as required