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Discussion Starter · #21 · (Edited)
UPDATE: Car had full alignment at new place and sure enough the wheel is dead straight and overall feel is much better. The first garage clearly do not know what they are doing. I will be seeking reimbursement.

However, this new garage left the camber at -2.0 and -0.5 (N/S, O/S respectively). The notes on the invoice stated that the O/S couldn't be moved as the ball joint plate was too rusty to move so "left as it was".

FFS!!!

How about, "we need to put a new bottom ball joint on in order to adjust the O/S camber, it will be another £30"?. Now I have to go back tomorrow to explain to the mechanic as I conversed with the receptionist. Obviously changing the balljoint and adjusting the camber is going to put the toe back out, so essentially, we have got nowhere. AND MY ESP IS STILL COMING ON!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
UPDATE: I went back to the garage and asked if they are happy for me to change the ball joint, or whether they would want to do it themselves - as some garages can get funny about that sort of thing... but then I want the tracking done, including the camber, gratis.

This was the point they told me they couldn't change the camber as their ramps wouldn't allow it. WTF?! I asked the obvious as to why they offered an alignment service in the first place. They said that was not the issue and it was due to the fact that my ball joint was modified!!! What?! How is my ball joint, my standard febi bilstein ball joint, modified?

I called it quits right there and requested my money back. Can't do that. The boss is quarantining after having had COVID. You will have to come back in 2 weeks. Didn't have the energy to go any further.

Found a third "specialist". Going in this Thursday. Explained the situation and worried that the mechanic said "the camber being out will not be the cause of the ESP light coming on?". Of course it can! Well, I will be taking it to them with this as the problem. I am not saying anything. The ESP light comes on turning right. Fix it please.

If I don't tell them I think it is the tracking, then they have no come back. I have given them the fault. They fix it the way they see best. 6 weeks now. Just waiting for the men in white coats to come and take me away. This is really messing with me.
 

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You should have just changed your lower ball joints and track rod ends..


Have you had a downpipe fitted? If you have, you probably didn't centralise the sub frame properly.... leading to all these issues
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Stuart - this all came about as a result of replacing the inner CV boot on the N/S. Nowt to do with downpipe or subframe I can assure you. I did change the ball joint N/S, but granted, could have checked other side, but having paid the garage £40 to "check" the suspension over prior to alignment, this should have been bought to my attention.

I don't have the time I used to which allows me to play with the car as much. But the geometry has been done 3 times in the last 18 months courtesy of CV boots and steering rack boots. At this rate, it would be worth my investing in my own Hunter kit!!
 

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2001 Amulet Red 225 coupe.Owned from new as well as a Nurburg VXR & an XR3, all from new.
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Hi, Without be reading through the posts again, do you have a fault code for the ESP alarm.
Could it be a lateral or longitudinal sensor that is causing the prob?
Sorry if this has been already discussed.
Hoggy. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Hi Hoggy,

No - nothing showing up at all as I thought it might be one of the sensors you mentioned, or a faulty abs sensor which I may have knocked when changing the CV boot.

I am quite convinced that nearly 2 degrees difference in camber between the front wheels is sufficient to cause the ESP to come on. Admittedly, I have to be going faster than "normal" driving to get the light up, but when safe this is how I like to drive, so it is very upsetting as it ruins my fun!
 

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Stuart - this all came about as a result of replacing the inner CV boot on the N/S. Nowt to do with downpipe or subframe I can assure you. I did change the ball joint N/S, but granted, could have checked other side, but having paid the garage £40 to "check" the suspension over prior to alignment, this should have been bought to my attention.

I don't have the time I used to which allows me to play with the car as much. But the geometry has been done 3 times in the last 18 months courtesy of CV boots and steering rack boots. At this rate, it would be worth my investing in my own Hunter kit!!
I am not talking about your error, I'm talking about your alignment issues, what was your alignment after having the subframe removed.

Someone on here tried to get their alignment sorted after a mobile mechanic fitted the downpipe, the alignment place had to re-sit the subframe to get the alignment sorted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
The downpipe was fitted about 5 years ago! And to my knowledge, being a 180, thus K03S, does not require the removal of the subframe. Again, I go back to the fact that the geometry was fine prior to my replacing of the CV boot. This limits the possibilities to camber and toe.... or potentially a sensor as Hoggy said that may not have been picked up by VAGCOM yet - but that is unlikely.
 

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Hi, Strange you are getting ESP alarm but no fault code.
Hoggy. :)
 

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A mate has recently taught himself how to do his own geometry using string and a small amount of kit after suffering with the same shite experiences, a stuck lower ball joint plate is a lame excuse as is not having the tools for the job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
@StuartDB - no problem! It's been ongoing for some time now!

@Hoggy - To clarify, it is flashing when going round right hand bends as it is applying the anchors - but not staying on

@Delta4 - Used to do this back in the days of stockhatch. But for camber, I need a nice bit of flat tarmac... and yes, it is a lame excuse. Quite agree.
 

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Sounds like an absolute nightmare.

I'm relieved it's not just me struggling to find decent garages to do my tracking. I recently had 4 new tyres fitted after replacing a bent front subframe, so the alignment was completely out after fitting the new subframe and I paid for 4 wheel alignment. I left the garage with the new tyres and had an ESP light flash and a weird sound grinding away from the NS front wheel. I drove straight back and asked it to be sorted, the guy spent 40 minutes redoing the tracking which he said hadn't been done the first time round...

I managed to locate the problem to the ESP light being a bent splash guard behind the disc on the NS front hub, mine are ready for replacement as they're rusted through and so I clearly managed to bend it slightly whilst working on the subframe. A long shot, but it's not your splash guard causing the ESP light is it? It seems that any vibrations or interference will trigger a sensitive wheel speed sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Sounds like an absolute nightmare.

I'm relieved it's not just me struggling to find decent garages to do my tracking. I recently had 4 new tyres fitted after replacing a bent front subframe, so the alignment was completely out after fitting the new subframe and I paid for 4 wheel alignment. I left the garage with the new tyres and had an ESP light flash and a weird sound grinding away from the NS front wheel. I drove straight back and asked it to be sorted, the guy spent 40 minutes redoing the tracking which he said hadn't been done the first time round...

I managed to locate the problem to the ESP light being a bent splash guard behind the disc on the NS front hub, mine are ready for replacement as they're rusted through and so I clearly managed to bend it slightly whilst working on the subframe. A long shot, but it's not your splash guard causing the ESP light is it? It seems that any vibrations or interference will trigger a sensitive wheel speed sensor.
Interesting... I will certainly check this before it goes into garage #3 this week. It is plausible that I may have knocked it whilst playing around with the driveshaft. I got a new lower ball joint and track rod end for the O/S - so that is everything replaced for the sake of £35. If I could only find a way of preventing the British roads from ruining my boots every 6 months, I would be very happy. There are these things called CV Savers, but they are aimed at the off-road 4x4 market.
 

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@StuartDB - no problem! It's been ongoing for some time now!

@Hoggy - To clarify, it is flashing when going round right hand bends as it is applying the anchors - but not staying on

@Delta4 - Used to do this back in the days of stockhatch. But for camber, I need a nice bit of flat tarmac... and yes, it is a lame excuse. Quite agree.

So it's not an actual fault, it's cutting in.., so you won't get a fault for abs / traction control doing it's job... mine did(does) that on slow sharp left turns, cutting the brakes to the front right wheel.. I have changed the right wheel speed sensor, as part of my clutch upgrade, new drive shaft, turbo actuator, manifold porting, battery relocation etc etc

If it still happens it must be the hub... as it has that cage (reloctor ring ?) Which decides when to cut the brakes..
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Yes, so as there is no fault logged, it will be geometry!! But sounds like you have got your own little project there!!
 

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Are the oe cv boots available from audi ?, fingers crossed that garage number 3 are not more knuckle draggers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
I always get good quality boots. I am not sure if it is the fact that it is lower to the ground, but it is bloody annoying. I am thinking of fabricating something up myself. How difficult can it be?!
 

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The boots may not like the angle that they rotating at, if two of the face are in constant contact then it's easy to see why they don't last.
 
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