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Discussion Starter · #701 ·
barry_m2 said:
IPG3.6 said:
Happy to answer any questions about it :)
Do you fancy a trip over to the UK to fit mine, maybe have a go at getting the TTS clocks in there too! :p
hehehe I wish! It would be great to meet some of you folk and have a go of your racetracks!

Alas, we are still on travel bans [smiley=bigcry.gif]
 

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IPG3.6 said:
The plan is to continue offering a couple of options:
1/ DIY kit = all the parts you need to make it happen + instruction. Most cost effective.
2/ Plug and play. I usually get people to send me their clusters for the modification. Plug and play in Mk2 will be "mostly" plug and play. The nature of the install requires some work with removing parts and is not as simple as the mk1 clusters where I can literally install the kit as a true plug and play solution.

Happy to answer any questions about it :)
Oh I see so you're basically testing them now and they'll be available soon? What's the cost like on these--I'm sure it's not cheap but it does look like something pretty advanced and looks totally integrated/stock which is nice.

BTW I agree on the blackout CHMSL since it's essentially the first "mod" I did on the car since it wasn't working when I bought the car and was required to pass safety cert/inspection :lol: The only bad part is there's not an OE one in black of course, so the aftermarket one, while cheaper and looking better from behind, doesn't actually have perfect fit. At least the one I bought didn't. But hey it was relatively cheap, looks better overall, and most importantly worked so I could get the car registered :p

I also got the black washer fluid cap since the blue one on mine was all cracked/busted up. With the black the washer fluid thing totally disappears :) I never checked to see if there's a Lambo logo on the underside--I should do that. I can't remember what p/n I got but it was the one for an R8 IIRC...so actually makes sense it has the Lambo stamp on it too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #703 ·
TT'sRevenge said:
Oh I see so you're basically testing them now and they'll be available soon? What's the cost like on these--I'm sure it's not cheap but it does look like something pretty advanced and looks totally integrated/stock which is nice.
Yes i've been toying with the idea for the past year and only now have bit the bullet and hardwired it into my car.

There will be 3 options as per Mk1 offerings
  • 1 - DIY kit straight out of the box $210USD + shipping. This kit will be incomplete and you will need to source extra wiring and connectors for it to work in the 8J. Instructions emailed to you.
    2 - Complete 8J DIY kit + semi-wired $TBC. Complete kit with everything you need (minus tools) to install into the 8J. Most of the work done for you. Instructions emailed.
    3 - Full installation and coding service $TBC. I will need to be with the car to complete the retrofit - end to end service

TT'sRevenge said:
The only bad part is there's not an OE one in black of course, so the aftermarket one, while cheaper and looking better from behind, doesn't actually have perfect fit. At least the one I bought didn't. But hey it was relatively cheap, looks better overall, and most importantly worked so I could get the car registered :p
Would you have a photo of the poor fitment? I'm happy with mine as i was tlaking with MT and his wasn't flush with the boot yes mine is. Maybe they improved fitment over the years?

TT'sRevenge said:
I also got the black washer fluid cap since the blue one on mine was all cracked/busted up. With the black the washer fluid thing totally disappears :) I never checked to see if there's a Lambo logo on the underside--I should do that. I can't remember what p/n I got but it was the one for an R8 IIRC...so actually makes sense it has the Lambo stamp on it too.
hahaha most likely it is also stamped with the Lambo logo.
 

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Yes TTsRevenge, I found on my test fit that the light unit was proud of the metal because the supplied foam gasket was too thick. I made a replacement thinner gasket and now it fits flush
 

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IPG3.6 said:
Yes i've been toying with the idea for the past year and only now have bit the bullet and hardwired it into my car.

There will be 3 options as per Mk1 offerings
  • 1 - DIY kit straight out of the box $210USD + shipping. This kit will be incomplete and you will need to source extra wiring and connectors for it to work in the 8J. Instructions emailed to you.
    2 - Complete 8J DIY kit + semi-wired $TBC. Complete kit with everything you need (minus tools) to install into the 8J. Most of the work done for you. Instructions emailed.
    3 - Full installation and coding service $TBC. I will need to be with the car to complete the retrofit - end to end service
Price doesn't sound too bad at all* though shipping seems like it might get expensive from Australia! Also Canada and our damn import taxes/duties :x FWIW I would probably go with option #2 provided the cost of wiring, etc. didn't add a huge amount as shipping a whole cluster over there and back would probably cost a fortune and risk damage in transit on top of that.

*Actually it's better priced than PolarFIS and FIS-Control, products that don't include a new, high-res display. Install just seems a lot more complicated and risky, OTOH. Seems like a good off-season project to get one and install when I'm not actively driving the car (I park this car for the winter which is like 8 months in this country these days :roll: ).

IPG3.6 said:
Would you have a photo of the poor fitment? I'm happy with mine as i was tlaking with MT and his wasn't flush with the boot yes mine is. Maybe they improved fitment over the years?
Well you could look at this pic from my "new user" thread back when I posted it. Picture was taken just after I got the car which was Sept. last year so not that long ago...


It's not really that the fit is poor per se, but just that it's not as good as factory/OE fit. It's tough to tell but you can kind of see it's not exactly totally uniform fitting along the bottom of the light. Also the plastic is much softer than OE--can be scratched easily by comparison, whereas the OE is a harder plastic, much like the tail-light plastic. That's not too huge a deal though as it's on the rear where it's not exactly getting hit by dirt/debris/etc. while travelling.

Getting an OEM one and putting some [exterior] tint film/wrap on it might be a better idea but at the time the aftermarket blackout one worked better for me for a few reasons:
1. It was relatively cheap.
2. I could get it quickly--just a few days to ship from a US retailer off eBay. Needed to do this when I bought the car to pass safety insp. so I could get plates and be able to drive it.
3. It looks pretty good still, and I still like the blacked look better than the factory one.

Getting an OE one would have been super expensive from the dealer and getting one from Latvia (for some reason you can get a lot of OE parts off there for good prices on eBay and they are indeed geniune), well that would have taken two months to arrive so that made the decision for me. Had I the time I would have probably gone the OE-and-tint route. Now I'm just crossing fingers that functionally this one lasts--as in the LEDs keep working. Time will tell I guess!

MT-V6 said:
Yes TTsRevenge, I found on my test fit that the light unit was proud of the metal because the supplied foam gasket was too thick. I made a replacement thinner gasket and now it fits flush
Hmm well I didn't have a huge flush-fit problem--in the picture you can see it fits okay it's just not 100% even or at least as even as the factory piece. I don't really think about it that much and as said it's not exactly ill-fitting but still it's unmistakably a China-made aftermarket part lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #706 ·
TT'sRevenge said:
IPG3.6 said:
Yes i've been toying with the idea for the past year and only now have bit the bullet and hardwired it into my car.

There will be 3 options as per Mk1 offerings
  • 1 - DIY kit straight out of the box $210USD + shipping. This kit will be incomplete and you will need to source extra wiring and connectors for it to work in the 8J. Instructions emailed to you.
    2 - Complete 8J DIY kit + semi-wired $TBC. Complete kit with everything you need (minus tools) to install into the 8J. Most of the work done for you. Instructions emailed.
    3 - Full installation and coding service $TBC. I will need to be with the car to complete the retrofit - end to end service
Price doesn't sound too bad at all* though shipping seems like it might get expensive from Australia! Also Canada and our damn import taxes/duties :x FWIW I would probably go with option #2 provided the cost of wiring, etc. didn't add a huge amount as shipping a whole cluster over there and back would probably cost a fortune and risk damage in transit on top of that.

*Actually it's better priced than PolarFIS and FIS-Control, products that don't include a new, high-res display. Install just seems a lot more complicated and risky, OTOH. Seems like a good off-season project to get one and install when I'm not actively driving the car (I park this car for the winter which is like 8 months in this country these days :roll: ).
For option 2 where all the twisted pair (for CAN) and interface plugs will be provided will be roughly $300USD (would be 350USD-ish to send to North America).
+ instructions
+ tech. support during and post install
I will need to make a formal install tute for this platform. So keep an eye out for that.

TT'sRevenge said:
IPG3.6 said:
Would you have a photo of the poor fitment? I'm happy with mine as i was tlaking with MT and his wasn't flush with the boot yes mine is. Maybe they improved fitment over the years?
Well you could look at this pic from my "new user" thread back when I posted it. Picture was taken just after I got the car which was Sept. last year so not that long ago...


It's not really that the fit is poor per se, but just that it's not as good as factory/OE fit. It's tough to tell but you can kind of see it's not exactly totally uniform fitting along the bottom of the light. Also the plastic is much softer than OE--can be scratched easily by comparison, whereas the OE is a harder plastic, much like the tail-light plastic. That's not too huge a deal though as it's on the rear where it's not exactly getting hit by dirt/debris/etc. while travelling...
Oh yes i can see that when looking closely... the untrained eye wouldn't pick that up though. I"ll keep monitoring the scratching thing though - i'm yet to wash the car since my install! :lol:
 

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IPG3.6 said:
For option 2 where all the twisted pair (for CAN) and interface plugs will be provided will be roughly $300USD (would be 350USD-ish to send to North America).
+ instructions
+ tech. support during and post install
I will need to make a formal install tute for this platform. So keep an eye out for that.
Will do!

TT'sRevenge said:
Oh yes i can see that when looking closely... the untrained eye wouldn't pick that up though. I"ll keep monitoring the scratching thing though - i'm yet to wash the car since my install! :lol:
Yeah I think most people would have to have it pointed out so it's not bad per se but it's just something you know about in the back of your mind when looking at it lol.

As for the scratching, meh I wouldn't be too worried if you're using proper wash technique. Mine hasn't really gotten scratched badly or anything, just that it's pretty clear it's much easier to scratch than the OE. As said since it's not on the front it's not something that will get destroyed over time or anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #708 ·
We've had a rough time with Delta in NSW but luckily enough - this means more time to concentrate on "indoor" projects. Such as driving around with the TT 3.6, extensively using colourMFA and making this review.


There's a lot to take in so please click through - sit back with a drink, enjoy!

Peronally I LOVE it as when you've upgraded fromt he OEM screen you kinda can't go back to it. What're your thoughts?
 

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These OEM puddle lights came up on marketplace at a very good price so i get them shipped from the west side, Perth, Western Australia which is a good 3,935.2 km drive :lol:

1quattropuddlelights.jpg

3quattropuddlelights.jpg

ABOVE: The units on the right are the "regular" downlights which don't project any logo. PN 4E0 947 415. I've got them there as i need to use the small 2 pin plugs to convert the plugs i have in there right now which are the older style, wide flat plug. It's nice and sharp, even with the camera's flash.

2quattropuddlelights.jpg

ABOVE: Here is the logo projected onto the floor. PN 4G0 052 133H

Install and comparison video coming soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #710 ·
I snuck out in between rainy days to get the puddle lights upgraded from regular LED bulb units to the projector "quattro" logo style ones. I highly recommend these genuine Audi units over the eBay, Wish, AliExpress etc. $20 lights as not only is the projected image much sharper but their build quality easily beats those cheap versions.

See what the different options are, how to code them in using VCDS, the wiring diagram and a comparison of the OEM LED puddle light VS LED projector "quattro" logo light. Part numbers and more info contained in the video and description. Enjoy!

 

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Discussion Starter · #711 ·
So we're on a never ending lockdown and I've decided to do a bit of a mod stocktake… plenty of bits here to keep one busy when travel is restricted to 5km away from your home. Haha
 

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What's in the SKF boxes? And what's the plan with all the level sensors? Haha
 

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IPG3.6 said:
We've had a rough time with Delta in NSW but luckily enough - this means more time to concentrate on "indoor" projects. Such as driving around with the TT 3.6, extensively using colourMFA and making this review.


There's a lot to take in so please click through - sit back with a drink, enjoy!

Peronally I LOVE it as when you've upgraded fromt he OEM screen you kinda can't go back to it. What're your thoughts?
Wow yeah that thing is certainly quite feature-rich!

However regarding the options menu from the factory that you end up losing I'm sure most of these things are settable in VCDS though I know some things like window rollup, don't you have to set these in VCDS and then also enable them in the cluster?

Also there's the TPMS reset--there's no way to do that in ColuorMFA either? I mean all it would take to do this is to be able to modify adaptation values...in some cases anyway. Seems like something that could be added on top of measuring blocks. But anyway I guess it's not too hard to get out VCDS to reset something like TPMS. Kind of a pain but with all the other stuff you get with ColourMFA, probably not a deal breaker.
 

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MT-V6 said:
What's in the SKF boxes? And what's the plan with all the level sensors? Haha
They're HD strut top bushes. I had them for ages thinking they needed replacing because there was a clunking in the front - turned out to be something else. They should be relatively easy to fit since the car is lowered. I hope so anyway…

TT'sRevenge said:
the options menu from the factory that you end up losing I'm sure most of these things are settable in VCDS
yeah they are able to be set in VCDS. I made sure to mention it because it might be a major caveat for some people but honestly. I've not had the need to touch that menu after the 5th or so time playing with it and setting my values.

TT'sRevenge said:
Also there's the TPMS reset--there's no way to do that in ColuorMFA either?
I don't have TPMS (yet) so this is not something I can test. I have found this screenshot though so it appears compatible with some models?
33D5A557-E799-4570-9E09-E1FEA6BDC683.png


The good thing is they're happy to take data (you can view the motor or comfort CAN bytes) and work with users to add features. For example in the oem screen you can see when you hard disable ESP. This is not in the ColourMFA yet but I'm waiting to hear back from the developers as I've sent them the relevant changes that occur when pressing ESP off, then on, then off and then hold for hard disable. All that's required is a firmware update.
 

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Discussion Starter · #716 ·
Hey Swiss - have just caught up on the thread with what seems to be a little bit of frustration and then a fresh start with the Armran's energy.

I've seen similar done on other platforms and one part of it requires a custom module to enable "mapping" the commands from the new steering wheel to what you want them to do - essentally translating whatever the newer steering wheel gives in CAN or LIN messages to the older platform's modules.
 

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Since having this head unit i've not looked at the time alignment (TA) or "time correction" as Alpine have it in their manual.

So i took the time to read up and take some measurements to optimise the audio.
Screen Shot 2021-08-28 at 4.29.57 pm.jpg

The Alpine equation is farthest speaker - all other speakers = value in cm or inches i.e.
  • left front speaker - right front speaker = ?
    left front speaker - right rear speaker = ?
    left front speaker - left rear speaker = ?
You then use the table to calculare the ms value (in this case i just set the screen to cm and entered my calulation)

So with all my equipment ready I fired up the system and navigate to the TA settings.
P1080381.JPG

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The nice thing with Alpine's unit is it lets you change the unit of measurement from milliseconds (ms), cm or inches.

Measuring away. Initially I measure all 3 drivers. Woofer, mid-range and tweeter.
P1080383.JPG

Here are my measurements in mm.
Screen Shot 2021-08-28 at 3.27.58 pm.jpg


The online calculator wants it in inches so had to quickly calculate it. I quickly realised that i wasn't going to be able to input each of these separate values into my system. A quick google reveals that in this case I measure from the mid-range drivers and make my calculations this way. I don't have any rear speakers so that helps keep things simple.
Screen Shot 2021-08-28 at 3.29.30 pm.jpg


Here's what i ended up entering and setting to preset 1. I went with the closest number i could enter in my system.
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Then you chuck on music to test it out. I toggled between "flat" and "preset 1" to see if i could hear any difference.
P1080388.JPG

I can definitely say the quality of the music changes however it's not that obvious until you do the switching. When it's flat the sound is right side biased and i can hear the majority of the volume/weight is toward the right. When i turn on my settings the sound lifts and it sounds "nicer" and spacious rather than mainly coming from the right. Super happy that i took 20 minutes to set up this up so if you have TA feature in your stereos definitley take a second to adjust it after you've done your main EQ tuning.

After that i went for a short drive to clean up the rusted rotors as the car is just sitting there since we're in our 11th week (i think) of lockdown and can't go anywhere significantly far. Bit of an overcast day today but spring has definitely sprung so i'm looking forward to the Australian heat coming back!
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Nice photos, guess you just need to drive in lots of 5 km circles around your house haha. I did notice the TT logos in the lights but I could never get a good photo of them. A nice touch I think
 

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For me Alpine updated the tune it app and now it no longer works and is unable to adjust for time correction now. Also now going to look at my lights as I have never noticed this before.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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IPG3.6 said:
I don't have TPMS (yet) so this is not something I can test. I have found this screenshot though so it appears compatible with some models?


The good thing is they're happy to take data (you can view the motor or comfort CAN bytes) and work with users to add features. For example in the oem screen you can see when you hard disable ESP. This is not in the ColourMFA yet but I'm waiting to hear back from the developers as I've sent them the relevant changes that occur when pressing ESP off, then on, then off and then hold for hard disable. All that's required is a firmware update.
Hmm I'm still wondering about the "checkbox" options, I thought some you still needed the DIS for, but maybe I'm wrong... But seems like you can do TPMS from your SS you have there :)

Overall I'm convinced--you just need to start selling this thing now haha :p
 
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