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No, none of the OBDeleven versions has the adaptation capability for the Roadster convertible top. I was working with their team a few years ago specifically to get the TT MK2 codes sorted, adaptations, "One Touch" features, etc., and they never got the roof adaptation figured out. Maybe now they have it, I can't say, but you could would write and ask them to verify it's possible.

If you really plan on doing serious maintenance and repair work, then the VCDS is the way to go. But as I said, for the casual user, the basic OBDeleven should suffice. If you decided to upgrade it later, I believe it can be done online.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
So let me just get this straight in my head…..would the pro OBDEleven do a roof adaptation if needed or is it completely incapable of doing this?
 

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The OBDeleven (all versions) can do some adaptations. However no version of the OBDeleven is capable of running a roof flap adaptation.
The Ross Tech VCDS can do all adaptations, including the roof flap adaptation..
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
@SwissJetPilot

Mate, you might want to edit your thread about rear seat panel removal to include that disconnecting the tweeter in the panel vs removing the whole unit would result in a world of hurt. Not your fault at all, but I’d have never have thought that simply uncoupling a speaker via its connector block would cause fault codes and the need to buy crap to clear them……
 

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@SwissJetPilot

Mate, you might want to edit your thread about rear seat panel removal to include that disconnecting the tweeter in the panel vs removing the whole unit would result in a world of hurt. Not your fault at all, but I’d have never have thought that simply uncoupling a speaker via its connector block would cause fault codes and the need to buy crap to clear them……
I’ve had my Bose amp out and disconnected from all speakers and never caused a fault code.
jez
 
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+1 Jezzie
@ Steviejonbes133 - I've honestly never heard of anyone disconnecting a speaker and getting a fault code, which is why you may want to double check the connector is properly seated. Not saying it can't happen, but yeah, that's a first to my knowledge. But fair point, I've added a comment to the post.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Will do, I did hear it click into place mind you…..
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
If it is something like quoted below and needs resetting or coding or whatever the hell needs doing, one would have thought that replugging the same Bose Audi speaker wouldn’t cause an issue…..

What's weird with the Bose system is the amplifier knows when a speaker was disconnected while the radio is off. There are only 2 wires going to the speaker.
Sorry, just extremely pi**ed off right now
 

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Back in the day we'd use a 9v battery and a couple of jumpers to test a speaker.
Connect ground and just tap positive to to see & hear if the speaker moved. Won't tell you anything about fidelity but it will tell you if your speaker is capable of working at all.

Alternate test:
Remove tweeter from the opposite side and swap. If the problem switches sides you know you have a defective speaker

If it doesn't, then disconnect speaker from the opposite side (leave disconnected) and cycle power. Replace speaker and test again. If both speakers stop working you know the amp channels are commanded to turn off when your amp senses a speaker isn't present. (got to reset them anyway)

If the replaced speaker starts working again then you know amp commands are not the issue. At this point you either have a wiring problem or a defective amp channel.
 

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The rear side tweeter and the rear side mid range are powered by the same channel in the Bose amp. Therefore if the mid rage is working, the channel in the amp is not faulty and it has not been "turned off" by a CAN signal.
 

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@ Steviejones133 - You'll notice in my write up, I never mentioned unplugging the speaker, only to remove it from the panel. Since the length of the speaker cable doesn't allow much play, it's possible that the connector or a pin in the connector could be damaged if the panel is pulled too hard or too far from the metal work, which could result on putting stress on the cable/connector. That's why I'm suggesting to take a really close look at the connector to make sure it's okay, and that the pins haven't been damaged and are connecting to the speaker properly.
 

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I actually did break the connector off one tweeter when pulling the panel out. I soldered it back together and it's working fine. No fault codes raised; however I wouldn't have turned on the ignition until everything was back togther again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 · (Edited)
Well, the midrange speaker behind the passenger seat is working just fine, so if that and the tweeter are on the same amp channel as tony mentioned, that indicates to me that no fault has been stored or needs clearing to enable that tweeter to work.

If that’s the case, I’ve either got a duff tweeter or damaged pins etc - I don’t think it’s the latter because I was EXTREMELY careful when removing the panel itself. I reached behind and loosened the cable that was stuck to the panel to give me more room to work disconnecting before complete panel removal.

I guess as chaos mentioned, I could remove the other panel and swap tweeters or try testing the one I have access to with a battery - I did read about that last night as well as I don’t have a multimeter.

I will recheck the pins etc as well…….by the way, the wires to the tweeter are red & brown - red = positive, brown = negative right?
 

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Steviejones133 said:
I will recheck the pins etc as well…….by the way, the wires to the tweeter are red & brown - red = positive, brown = negative right?
Yes. Red is almost always positive in any circuit.
 

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Just in case your still not aware that the electrical wiring on this car is Engineered and Designed to FAIL. No heatshrink on the large cables going to the fuse box(copper wire crimp to white metal terminal) , + battery and main ground cable (copper wire crimp to brass terminal) going to the engine. Make sure to use a double wall heat shrink 4:1.

On a direct current, disimilar metal connection must be always sealed to prevent corrosion.
 

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I’ve had my Bose amp out and disconnected from all speakers and never caused a fault code.
jez
99.9% sure disconnecting the electrical connector on the speaker will log or store a fault code when the battery is connected and the computer is awake (hazard button illuminated).
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
I think I found out what was wrong with the original tweeter. I tried testing it with a 9v battery which was quite discharged - nothing. Then I noticed that I must have accidentally dislodged one of the very fine wire connections right at the solder joint as below, it was barely noticeable. I did have a go at resoldering it but could not get it to stay stuck as I think the foil type covering around the wire exposed the core which was not solderable. Speaker goosed.

Cunningly, I did manage to wrap a very small bit of foil around the wire to form a makeshift connection where it have detached and retested with the battery and got some feint pops which seemed to confirm exactly what I’d broken.

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So with that done, I searched flea bay for the part number on the back and bought a couple, however the plot thickens……when they arrived, they look slightly different to the original and the part number is the same but without the A on the end…….they appear to have a larger cone and seem to be a tad taller - otherwise they look the same. Original on the right below and middle pic.

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Are the ones I’ve received just a revision difference or are they intended for the dashboard locations? - they have the same locators, plug connection etc etc so I’m presuming they’ll be fine…….just curious as to why they’re different!
 

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I can help you answer this. I believe the tweeter on the right is the none BOSE version and the one on the left is the BOSE version.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Hmmm. There’s no Bose markings on either tweeter unlike the midrange behind my passenger seat which does have a Bose logo embossed into it…….

Also, the one on the right was the original one I removed so unless someone else changed that, it should have been a Bose speaker, yes?

I don’t know if those who elected a Bose setup simply just got “extra speakers” over the standard ones……
 

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That’s very odd then you have non Bose tweeter installed if it’s a BOSE setup.

Have you checked the other tweeter to see if it looks the same? Worth popping it out to have a look. I have a none Bose standard setup and still have tweeters in the front dash which look like yours on the right.

I can also confirm those with a BOSE setup will have a tweeter in the door. Whereas those without don’t, they still have a tweeter grill but it just has foam behind and not a tweeter.

Hope that helps.
 
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