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Mine is a MK20 and seems it's possible on that. I have read several threads where people have tried to code out the ESP on MK60 and haven't been able to do it. You just need to disconnect one of the ESP sensors and this will disable it. I am going to put a switch in the power line to one of the ESP sensors on my car so when on track I can just turn off the ESP, rather than coding it in and out.
This is the combined lateral and yaw sensor on a MK60. Pin1 is the power feed, fit a toggle switch in this line and you can turn the sensor on and off. Without the sensor the ESP functionality is disabled.

mk60 esp sensorJPG.JPG
 

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Thanks, i know about disabling the sensors but i was trying to avoid the warning light. I think i can disable the warning light but not tried it yet.
can i have the code as i might try and fit a mk20 module if possible
 

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Discussion Starter · #623 ·
Swapping from a MK60 to MK20 is not straightforward there are significant differences and certainly not worth it for the sake of having a warning light on whilst the ESP is disabled. Brake pressure sensors are in the master cylinder on a MK20 so you would need to replace the MC and add the sensors and wiring, the ESP sensors are also different I have 2 seperate ESP sensors on my car.
On my car you take 2048 off the existing code so 18446-2048 = 16398 . On a MK60 it has 7 digit codes so is completely different.
 

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Hi Karl, what does the engine side have when a DSG is fitted? Does the crank literally go into the gearbox and the clutches are part of the box with a flywheel? And you have removed your clutch pedal etc?
 

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Discussion Starter · #626 ·
There is a DMF attached to the crank as it would be on a normal manual car. The clutch is contained within the gearbox so the input shaft to the gearbox is actually connected directly to the clutch basket inside the gearbox. The gearbox input shaft does have an extension that runs in the centre of the crank which is why it's necessary to fit the spigot bearing in the end of the crank.
The Audi SSP explains a lot of this.

http://www.volkspage.net/technik/ssp/ssp/SSP_308.pdf

If you look at a DQ250 clutch you can see the input shaft with the extension that goes into the back of the crank and the splined shaft that engages in the centre of the DMF. Quite reasonable prices for the clutch considering all the work that goes into them compared to a normal clutch.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/402299858816?
 

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Not updated this for a while has had a few issues but hopefully all is now good.
Had some issues with the car the day I took it to Awesome GTI to get a TVS stage 3 map on the box. Only got the car back around 4pm in the afternoon to test and make sure all was OK. On roads I didn't know managed to find one that had a very big drop in the road surface ,like there was underground subsidence. The car literally took off and flew landing very hard. The next time I accelerated hard there was a loud bang, lot's of noise and I quickly stopped the car.
From the parts I found on the road at the rear of the car I figured the haldex coupling had failed on the bevel box. This was a fairly new Meyle HD item, one of the mounting bolts on the prop had sheared. Recovered by the AA from Manchester.Needed a new coupling, second hand prop and unfortunately second hand transfer case as the output flange arm was bent and could not be straightened.

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Once that was sorted I could get on with tweaking the ECU mapping. Took the car on it's first Track day at Mallory Park and it ran really well. I have had to move the gearbox cooler rad and alter the gearbox breather as gearbox temps were hitting 130+. I had the cooler rad at the rear of the main rad to make it easier to fit, on the road no issues at all even when pushing it. On track after 15 minutes temps were up at 135+ . Didn't help that I left the front number plate on, there are a lot of cooling holes behind this.Was only running 1.5 bar boost.


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New location of the gearbox cooler in front of the rad, had to move the oil cooler and reposition the FMIC a bit, all now appears to be good.

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Just at the end of the second session the Passenger side driveshaft failed when the hub nut sheared off, lucky car didn't end up in the armco at the edge of the track as it pulled left quite quickly when braking around 90 mph. This happened right at the end of the track video, explains my slightly animated conversation with myself.
Brake pedal went long as well as the disc was running at an angle through the caliper so pushing the pads back. I suspect this is also related to the airborne flying episode. Both hubs have been replaced now with bolt types and I used the TTS passenger side driveshaft.
Ignitron ECU log when the Hub nut failed, You can see the steering correction made when the bolt failed around 90mph.

Hub nut failure log.JPG


When I jacked the car up and went to check for play in the wheel it was all over the place, I removed the plastic centre cap and the nut fell out on the floor attached to part of the driveshaft, think I had found the problem.

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Since then have revisited the gearbox mapping and ECU mapping, think I now have it running well at 2 bar if I want it.
Did some runs with my Dragy and managed 3.26s 0-60 , 7.21 @101 mph 1/8 mile and an 11.24 @123 mph quarter mile. Also recorded a 7.42s 100-200Km/h . Tried a slightly more aggressive launch but just lit all 4 tyres up and had the car going sideways. There is a bit more in the mapping as the turbo will goto 2.2 bar in the midrange and there may be a very high 10 second 1/4 with a better launch on a more grippy surface .


Screenshot_2021-07-01-3.26s 0-60 graph.png


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Screenshot_2021-06-30-11.24s quarter graph.png


Screenshot_2021-06-30-11.24s quarter speeds.png


Screenshot_2021-07-01-7.422 100-200 graph.png


Screenshot_2021-07-01-7.42s 100-200 speeds .png
 

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Jesus... People aren't joking when they say pushing a car up to the recommended limit reduces life of parts, you are 300% past it's limit now. And you are fixing more and more, Tuffty blew up his transfer box as well, and destroyed his propshaft centre coupling (from street driving not track ) and Stacey smashed up drive shafts 5 or 10 times a year.. do you think you need a bigger boat?

Any advice from Bill? You'll need a girdle next ;) (for your block of course)

To think, I'm worried that not all my fly-wheel bolts are exactly 44ft/lb + 90° - you have done some amazing stuff with your TT...
 

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Discussion Starter · #629 ·
I am 95% sure the Haldex coupling broke as a result of the car taking off and landing very hard on a section of road where it looks as if the road had subsided a lot. With the stiff suspension, engine mounts etc the shock was taken on the haldex coupling which caused the bolt to shear. I suspect this also started the crack on the driveshaft which led to it's failure.
Won't be going back down that road again and both driveshafts are now the bolt type which don't seem to suffer with issues, probably why they changed from the nut to bolt type fixing on newer cars.
The car is so much better to drive now and the way it gathers speed is quite silly. Think my next road car will probably be a DSG, Didn't really like autos before having this gearbox change.
Found an interesting site on you tube where they use a Dragy box to measure 0-100 and 100-200 on many different cars including a lot of very quick performance cars. The 0-100km/h figure for my TT is 3.36s , 100-200 7.42s.

https://bit.ly/2PSakev

A Ferrari 458 100-200 7.52s 0-100 3.73s
A 2016 911 Porsche GT3 RS 100-200 7.66s
 

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It's lunacy isn't it.. I'm not surprised you'll out-strip most cars, you also have the brakes, suspension, fuel management and cooling to accommodate the power, which most people.. go... meh i'll look at it later...

I sort of imagine any kind of wheel spin (in the air) followed by sudden no wheel spin (back on the ground) whilst +440ft/lb ? will stress something. It might not have been on ASN, but I'm sure I remember someone talking about wheels turning inside the tyres as the torque was too crazy and tyres too grippy.

Incidentally, when your driveshaft went, were you still able to drive home? Or was it hanging down?
 

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Discussion Starter · #631 ·
The hub nut effectively holds the two halves of the wheel bearing together and secures the location of the hub. When it snapped the wheel could move around, the only thing really holding the hub on was the brake disc in the caliper. The brake disc ended up rubbing the caliper housing at the top and bottom as I had to drive the best part of a lap to get back to the pits. I couldn't drive the car home and had to get it trailered back home as the AA refused to recover the car, something about not covering cars used for Motorsport use.
 

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Sorry to see the hit you took on that crummy road. Completely understand what a frustrating experience that is. I bent an OE wheel, strut, control arm and exploded the top strut bearing on a crater I couldn't see. I try to use these events to make improvements with the replacement bits. In my case, I finally bought the set of OZs I'd been lusting for. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #636 ·
Delta4 said:
Outstanding level of performance DS, do you have any options regarding driveshaft and prop upgrade.
The driveshafts are both now the newer style with bolts on the hub and not nuts, These are more reliable, the driveshafts are also a lot newer than the original 2002 items so hopefully they will be more reliable. I replaced the haldex doughnut on the back of the transfer box with a Febi item with OE bolts rather than the Meyle HD item that failed. Possibly the HD item is more rigid and thus put more load into the mounting bolts that made it fail.
Will see how it goes, the big issue I believe was the state of the road that caused the issues when the car went flying.
 

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Discussion Starter · #637 ·
darylw357 said:
That made my Mallory laps look positively pedestrian ! That Renault 5 Turbo in your video looked good fun too 8)
Yes it was quite quick around the corners with full slicks on and very stripped out, not quite so quick on the straights. I was out in the intermediate/ expert group and a lot of the cars were fully stripped race cars with full slicks.
Had a good run around behind a modern replica Escort in the first session. It was an RSR escort with a 2.5l Duratec full race engine. That was pretty quick and it was the first time I had ever been round Mallory so had to follow him for a few laps before I overtook him.
In that video there is a type R Golf and the lads in that came over looking at my car after the first session. They said it was running 500bhp and were asking me about my car. I overtook them a few times so not sure they were running that much power. But the TT has both power, brakes and pretty decent handling .

https://www.flickr.com/photos/javelintr ... 5065/page2
 

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Discussion Starter · #639 ·
I don't think I am anything special when it comes to driving a car fast. On a race team I would probably make a better mechanic than a driver.
The difference between a top line driver and somebody who has done some karting and a lot of track days, just over 3 seconds.
https://www.carmagazine.co.uk/features/ ... ch-faster/
 

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I liked Jackie Stewart teaching Guy Martin (I think) in a simple 1.6 saloon car, I think it was when he was going to race Jenson Button in one of those banned 1980s ground effect f1 cars, maybe also a six wheeler. And Button gave him a 30 second head start...

The point was Guy couldn't get close to Stewart's single lap..
 
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