The remote lock/unlock function on both my key fobs has stopped working. I've tried replacing the batteries and have followed the guide on coding keys ( http://www.audiworld.com/tech/misc13.shtml ) without any success.
my keys are 2 yrs old and had a similar problem with 1 of them. Dealer is replacing fob and said it takes 40 mins to do on the computer as they have to link to germany to reprogramme. plan to have it done in next month.
not sure what cost would be when not covered by warranty
I had the same problem. Tried the reset sequence several times but could not get it to work. So I took it to the dealer for service and they somehow reset it. Problem is I forgot the second set and now they want me to pay to reset the second set :evil:
VAGCOM can support the remote reprogramming, not the immobiliser reprogramming. If dealer orders a new fob complete with blade it will require coding to the immobiliser, but they can order just the remote part of the fob if thats gone faulty.
Very rare for 2 fobs to fail at the same time so more likely a problem with central locking unit, VAGCOM would give some clues...
There are several versions of how to re-program the fobs, this one worked for me
You will need BOTH of your "switchblade" keys to reprogram one or both of them.
1. Take the key you DO NOT want to program and put it in the ignition. Turn it one click forward.
2. Close and lock the drivers door with the second key.
3. On the second key (the one in the drivers door) press the 'UNLOCK' button ONCE only. The lights will flash on the car, but the doors will remain locked
4. With the second key still in the drivers door, unlock then lock the door again.
5. Pull the key from the slot and test remote functions.
6. Open drivers door, remove key from ignition.
If both of your remotes don't work, do the above for the first key, but on step #3, press the 'UNLOCK' button twice. The lights will flash twice, then continue on with step #4.
sorry to bring an old post up but wondering if andrew.p got to the bottom of his problem?
I have the same problem by the sound of it. Audi have said that they will charge £150 + VAT for a new key which they are saying is the best option but I don't believe this will fix the problem and I will be out of pocket still with an issue.
Just to confirm, my issue is:
2000 TT 1.8T(225)
1) 2 x keys that will not remotely operate the doors, boot or windows - both used to but stopped working (I think at the same time)
2) Both keys will unlock the driver or passenger door manually
3) When unlocking either of the doors manually, the other door will remain locked until pressing the unlock button in the car or turning the key in the ignition to accessory live (lights on the dashboard but car not started) and waiting for a second or two until the door unlocks itself
4) Both keys immobilisers work (both drive the car)
I have tried all the various methods of locking/unlocking the car and pressing the buttons to recode (one of which is described by triplefan above) but the keys will not respond. I have replaced the battery in one of the keys and tried again several times but with no joy.
Rob, afraid I didn't find out what the problem was in the end. Decided to sell the car as well so I guess I'll never know.
I wouldn't have thought it's a coding problem since both my keys still worked with the immobiliser and so it must have been a a faulty receiver module but I couldn't find where it was hidden to replace it.
If you do find out I'd be interested to know where it is or what was actually the problem!
I have had my ECU ABS unit go in my TT, and it was sent of to be refurbed. It never was and was brought back to me and put back in the car, but now the immobiliser wont work, and I only have the one key?
Yaaaaaaaayyyyyyy - I've found the problem and fixed it.
It was as I, and Andrew P, suspected... a faulty receiver module. I took half of the car apart to find the CCU as I couldn't find a decent description of where to find it and pretty much knackered most of the interior trim in the process. I'm gonna let everyone else know how to get to the unit in a roadster so that they don't make the same mistake!! I will post pictures tomorrow in case anyone is interested and also to help anyone else who may encounter this problem. In the mean time however, the unit is actually really easy to get to and remove.
This is for a RHD 2000 TT Roadster:
standing at the rear of the car the unit is located on the right; behind the drivers seat. I found the best way to get to it was to remove the spare wheel cover and then the centre panel in the boot that touches the spare wheel cover. It is box shaped with an open front and is the furthest panel away from you in the boot as you stand at the back of the car:
Once you have removed the boot box you will be able to see the audio amplifer facing you on the right hand side (you will probably have to crawl into the boot to see this!).You will be able to give yourself some more light by pushing the inspection panel out into the area below the rear window and you may even be able to remove the CCU from above although I didn't try this:
Directly opposite the amp is the CCU:
It has five connectors in the side nearest you as you are in the boot. BEFORE REMOVING THE CCU, MAKE SURE TO DISCONNECT THE BATTERY POSITIVE SO THAT AS YOU PULL THE BOARD OUT, NOTHING SHORTS ON THE BODYWORK. The CCU PCB just slides straight out of its mount by pulling the PCB towards the left hand side of the car. Once the PCB is out of its mount you will need to remove the connectors by pressing their release clips and pulling sharply:
I found that there was some small corrosion on the PCB and connectors where there must be a slight leak; I can feel that the parcel shelf (if that's what it's called in a convertible?) is slightly damp. After cleaning up the connectors with some IPA and a fibre-tipped pen and also having to make a small repair to the PCB (after some serious cleaning as you'll notice the state of the receiver module above!) the unit worked!
Hope this helps someone else - I've just gotta fix that damned leak now!