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Discussion Starter · #162 · (Edited)
I have swapped my LED bixenons for AFS LED bixenons. This is a kind of "upgrade" guide that can build on my main retrofit guide. I knew I was planning on going this route so I installed the correct wiring in advance, so if you have factory fit bixenons already fitted, you will need to run some extra wires to them. If going from halogen (like I did overall), still more wires will need to be run, read my other guide first. Some changes are required in the dash fuse box.

https://www.ttforum.co.uk/threads/my-phantom-black-v6-thread.1505602/page-2#post-9374517

Firstly, these parts are required:

AFS headlights x2 (RHD/LHD to suit your car) - will add part numbers
Ballasts (they differ) x2 - 8E0 941 329 A
Screws for ballasts (if ballasts are not already attached to the headlight unit) x6 - N 903 474 02
AFS module (in order of age, any should work) - 4F0 907 357 F -> 4L0 907 357 -> 4L0 907 357 B
Module connector - 7M3 972 726 A

The AFS headlights have satin silver on the sides of the projector, compared to the gloss black of the standard bixenons.
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Here is the standard xenon module on the left, and the AFS one on the right. The blue connector is very slightly different, though the inner black pin holders are the same, so they do not need to be completely repinned.
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The AFS module mounted up behind the instrument cluster after repinning. I unplugged the headlights before repinning this, as some power outputs differ and I didn't want to damage anything. I didn't reconnect them until the new module was in place.
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You will get this error when you code AFS in the instrument cluster prior to reconnecting the AFS module.
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The coding is:

10-Instruments
  • Coding:
    • ????xxx: Equipment
      • +0032 = Advanced Front Lighting System (AFS = Cornering Lights) installed
55-Xenon Range
  • Coding:
    • 0000023 = Audi TT (8J) with Steel Suspension and Front Wheel Drive (FWD)
    • 0000024 = Audi TT (8J) with Steel Suspension and All Wheel Drive (AWD)
    • 0000025 = Audi TT (8J) with Magnetic Ride
Note: Perform Security Access before Coding and Basic Setting (Headlight Adjustment) after Coding

Security Access:
  • 02000 = General Coding "Enabling"
  • 02000 > 03000 > 04000 > 05000 = General Adaptation "Enabling" (Enter one after another)
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php?title=Audi_TT_(8J)_Headlight_Aim_Control_(Adaptive_Light)

The pin changes from LED xenon to AFS xenon are:

Headlight pin 14, both sides > add new earth, 1mm2 brown wire

Module pin 6 (green/blue) > move to pin 21
Module pin 7 (blue) > move to pin 22
Module pin 10 (black) > move to pin 12
Module pin 12 (green/brown) > move to pin 10

Module pin 15 > Splice pin 15 (purple) and pin 17 (green) and move to pin 15 (green)
Module pin 17 > Splice pin 15 (purple) and pin 17 (green) and move to pin 15 (green)

IN PROGRESS

The headlight vertical height can be adjusted by the adjustor via this hole.
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Discussion Starter · #164 ·
Love the retrofit electric seat mod, what was the total cost to do this ?
I actually made a little money from it believe it or not. Often sellers prefer to sell the whole interior (seats, door cards, centre console). So I sold the centre console easily enough, eventually got a local seller for the rear seats (wasn't easy to shift, they wanted it for a custom hot rod project or something due to being quite small!), and after swapping over my red seat cushions etc I ended up with a complete pair or manual black front seats which sold quite easily (TT seats are seen as an easy upgrade for other VAG cars apparently). So not a bad result. I think it was £250 or so which was quite a good initial price really, but with some effort you get a nice upgrade for little cost
 
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Discussion Starter · #166 ·
The base has a little extra adjustment over the manual seats. The front can be tilted separately to the rear height

I have long legs and would still like it if the base slid out like some larger cars, but I do find it comfortable overall

The lumbar support is also nice (if you don't have it already as some manual seats still have electric lumbar controls)
 

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Discussion Starter · #168 ·
Not sure I'd say "much" better but it definitely is better. I'm tall so my seat height is all the way down, seat pushed back as far as it will go before touching the rear bench

The front height adjustment helps here as with the seat down, I can put the front up a bit to support my legs better

I only found this out after fitting them, it was an option my car was missing so of course it had to be done
 

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The base has a little extra adjustment over the manual seats. The front can be tilted separately to the rear height

I have long legs and would still like it if the base slid out like some larger cars, but I do find it comfortable overall

The lumbar support is also nice (if you don't have it already as some manual seats still have electric lumbar controls)
Ever interesting the number of retrofits you've done! I think eventually you'll have added every possible option to the car and then some...if you're not there already 😁

Did you ever think of using seats from another car though? Like say an 8V/8S MQB car or an S4?

Quick question if you remember changing your CV (mentioned earlier in the thread). When I pulled the axle bolt on my car (changing struts) I had CV grease...come out with the axle nut, like from the centre of the CV where it's threaded! Like a big glob of it. The boot is intact. I've pulled various axle nuts over the years (including on the other car) but this is a first--I don't really recall grease ever coming from there? Then again I've never tried to rebuild one of these "bolt goes in the axle" CVs to know if the grease can actually come out of there normally somehow. I've yet to pull the inner bolts to remove and check the whole axle more carefully (will do so this evening) but that doesn't seem right, does it? lol

Edit: Well to answer my own question, looks like this is completely normal. The way they make the axles is the threaded portion goes straight through into the CV. I'm guessing the grease might be injected that way during manufacturing. Was probably just some grease on the end being "pressurised" due to the CV pos'n and that's why a glob oozed out. Interestingly, seems if one needed to add grease to a outer CV (say one of their boot clamps failed and they needed to replace) they could just pull the axle nut afterwards and pump grease in there, instead of dealing with a big mess to get the grease in otherwise.
 

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Discussion Starter · #170 ·
I have considered other seats, I like the MK3 supersports actually (aside from the notorious plastic trim issue). Something with a bit more support would help (I track the TT once or twice a year)

Regarding the hub bolt issue, even though you have answered yourself, just to confirm it is normal. It does seem a bit weird as the grease could interfere with the torque setting I would have thought, but then again at 200Nm + 180 degrees, not a lot is going to lose that :D
 

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I have considered other seats, I like the MK3 supersports actually (aside from the notorious plastic trim issue). Something with a bit more support would help (I track the TT once or twice a year)

Regarding the hub bolt issue, even though you have answered yourself, just to confirm it is normal. It does seem a bit weird as the grease could interfere with the torque setting I would have thought, but then again at 200Nm + 180 degrees, not a lot is going to lose that :D
Yeah I wonder...do the Mk3 seats will go in with no modifications? I think someone has done it right?

Yeah the axle bolt is some crazy torque spec haha. When I installed the KWs on the A3, I went to like 100-some-odd degrees and called it a day :LOL: Nowadays I have a bunch of different impacts though...I could put the 150lb*ft on it and then put it on the ground and see how far I can get, then hit it with the impact to turn it the rest of the way. I mean it's not gonna be a smooth movement but I'm sure the high torque'll get it there no problem; not like this is cylinder head bolts or anything. Only thing is the only socket (12pt) I have that fits is imperial (so not exactly the right size) and chrome (not a good idea on an impact though I did use it to take them out lol).

Interesting thing about that bolt is there have been three types, all which have different torque specs. The hex bolt, the 12pt with ribs, and the 12pt w/o ribs (smooth). It's the 12pt smooth that is the current or most up-to-date part you get from the dealer, which means you need the 200N*m (148lb*ft) + 180 deg. business.
 

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Discussion Starter · #172 ·
Exactly that. I managed to find a 12 point impact socket but then the aftermarket CV lot I bought came with an Allen head so didn't need it. I plan on replacing that bolt because I'm a bit weird like that. My 2007 TT came with 6 point hex with a free spinning incorporated washer, so add that to the list of types, but yes the mega torque ones are the latest supersession
 
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