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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
right iv took it out today as its fooked.
do i replace it with a new one or can i fix it any other way.
tryed today to fix it but not been successful.

is there a cheap replacement?
 

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What window microchip ? :?

Mr L :p
 

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He means microswitch! That thread you posted is the best information I've got. Wak fixes them by re-using the switch and adding a lever off a new switch but I couldn't find a direct replacement that fitted because the mounting holes are non standard. You could buy the one I suggested to Wak and fabricate a bracket perhaps if the old switch is useless.
 

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acmurray said:
MrL said:
What window microchip ? :?

Mr L :p
What he said. :?
Oh, microswitch, I know what he's on about now. :lol:
Cheers Vik & John-H.

Mr L :p
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
sorry im realy bad at spelling.
how much does wak fix them for and do i have to send it to him or go to where hes at?

thanks.
 

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John-H said:
He means microswitch! That thread you posted is the best information I've got. Wak fixes them by re-using the switch and adding a lever off a new switch but I couldn't find a direct replacement that fitted because the mounting holes are non standard. You could buy the one I suggested to Wak and fabricate a bracket perhaps if the old switch is useless.
I bought a switch from ELFA (https://www1.elfa.se). Manufacturer is Saia-Burgess and it's identical to the original one. All you have to do is to carefully take out the top part (pic) of the microswitch and install it on the old switch. 5 minutes job!





35-831-43 Mikroswitch IP67, Saia-Burgess V4NCST7 Datasheet
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
carnt find it on the site make can you help?
looks perfict aswell.
 

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Vik's said:
John-H said:
He means microswitch! That thread you posted is the best information I've got. Wak fixes them by re-using the switch and adding a lever off a new switch but I couldn't find a direct replacement that fitted because the mounting holes are non standard. You could buy the one I suggested to Wak and fabricate a bracket perhaps if the old switch is useless.
I bought a switch from ELFA (https://www1.elfa.se). Manufacturer is Saia-Burgess and it's identical to the original one. All you have to do is to carefully take out the top part (pic) of the microswitch and install it on the old switch. 5 minutes job!





35-831-43 Mikroswitch IP67, Saia-Burgess V4NCST7 Datasheet
Wow! Vic - Excellent you found it :D . Brilliant. I'll let Wak know. I couldn't find it when I was looking and the solution of using the lever to ride over the rough worn bits got round most failures, where the wear stopped the actuator being pushed - so the impetus went cold.

I still think the lever acting as a sled is an improvement to the original design but it's great to have a replacement switch for when the switch has actually failed [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
 

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YES TT, Unfortunatly they have changed design of the site and direct link is not working anymore... Just follow the link https://www1.elfa.se and punch in the part no. 35-831-43 in the search window.

John-H said:
Wow! Vic - Excellent you found it :D . Brilliant. I'll let Wak know. I couldn't find it when I was looking and the solution of using the lever to ride over the rough worn bits got round most failures, where the wear stopped the actuator being pushed - so the impetus went cold.

I still think the lever acting as a sled is an improvement to the original design but it's great to have a replacement switch for when the switch has actually failed [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
:wink:

I do agree that the lever is an improvement over original design though!
 

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Can you just clarify something? The photo you posted shows four distinct square holed tabs. The picture in the catalogue doesn't seem to show the tabs in the one with the wires and the one with the solder tags seems to have a split line through where the tabs should be. The data sheet shows two side by side - one with tabs and one without.

Is the 35-831-43 : V4NCST7 people should order, with tabs, and not shown correctly in the catalogue pictures?
 

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John-H said:
Can you just clarify something? The photo you posted shows four distinct square holed tabs. The picture in the catalogue doesn't seem to show the tabs in the one with the wires and the one with the solder tags seems to have a split line through where the tabs should be. The data sheet shows two side by side - one with tabs and one without.

Is the 35-831-43 : V4NCST7 people should order, with tabs, and not shown correctly in the catalogue pictures?
You've got me thinking twice here... as I've ordered the above number... But I have a spare one, so I tok a photo of it and guess what? Part no. on the switch is 35-831-50!:



and according to the site 35-831-50 is the replacement for the 35-831-43 and vice versa (so they should be equal in tabs design etc.).



And they both share the catalogue picture (seems to be outdated) and the datasheet.

As I recall from the old site design it was the same part in the catalogue but in two different versions, - one with solder terminals and one with the embedded cables (one that I have).

So I guess it is 35-831-43 : V4NCST7 (solder terminals) and 35-831-50 V4NCSK2-0,5M (embedded cables, 50cm).

I am sorry, that because of some unfortunate wording, I may have inadvertently confused you :oops:
 

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Thanks for that - not your fault the catogue's confusing :wink:

I went to the Cia Burgess website and found the following information. This page shows the variants: http://www.saia-switch.com/mediando/ind ... roduct=101



The best one to get may be one with a lever attached but here are the variants:

V4NCT7 solder plunger 250 VAC 5 A -
V4NCS cable 500 mm plunger 250 VAC 5 A -
V4NCT7A1 solder plain lever 18.0 mm 250 VAC 5 A -
V4NCSA1 cable 500 mm plain lever 18.0 mm 250 VAC 5 A -
V4NCT7AR solder roller lever 16.0 mm 250 VAC 5 A -
V4NCSAR cable 500 mm roller lever 16.0 mm 250 VAC 5 A -

I've not checked out the UK distributors but details of distributors are on the Burgess website: http://www.johnsonelectric.com/Sales-Lo ... no_cache=1

I think I'd still feel happier changing the entire switch but the lower part of the original appears to be custom made with non standard mounting hole pegs:



Here's a Cherry switch next to the original - you can see the holes are a different spacing so you can't simply mount it on screws through the holes. Filing out the holes into slots might work though.



Still, good to be able to replace the seal and plunger top piece :) .
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
how the hell do you buy the thing??????
the web sites crap!
 

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John-H said:
...
Still, good to be able to replace the seal and plunger top piece :) .
Yepp )

John-H said:
Which website are you looking at?
I think he means ELFA... The new design is java-based and not as good to use...
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
yep lol.

is there a better web site????
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
i just need to order that switch lol how hard is it!!!!!!! :x :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :evil: :evil: :(
 
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