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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What is the optimum rear wheel camber angle, given the use of adjustable tie bars to set to that optimum angle? Anyone got a data sheet/chart re this? Thanks.
 

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When I asked the TT shop the same question they told me that they normally set rear camber to 1 degree 45 minutes on lowered cars with adjustable tie bars
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
TT51 said:
When I asked the TT shop the same question they told me that they normally set rear camber to 1 degree 45 minutes on lowered cars with adjustable tie bars
Cheers. That makes sense.

Has anyone got that chart/table that shows the angles achieved when lowering by different amounts? Apparently this chart is often misused, as people use it (wrongly) to set up camber angles wrt amount lowered - as per those shown on the chart, when in actual fact it is merely a table that shows what is actually ACHIEVED when lowering (without adjustable tie bars), but NOT what the angle should ACTUALLY BE for optimum performance. In other words, it can tell you how far away from optimum you will actually be when lowering. Hence the subsequent use of adjustable tie bars to bring it back to - as I'm told above - 1 degree and 45 minutes. I would like to see this table/chart. I just had my adjustable tie bars fitted followed by a full alignment. Yet the rear wheels lean in like the tower of Pisa! You can even get a small sense of this from the side view below - the top of the rear wheels tuck into the arches. When you look from behind it looks way wrong - as if the rear suspension has collapsed! I reckon they wrongly used this chart to 'set it up'. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I found the data:

http://www.kisolutionz.com/ttforum/wheelalign.pdf

See pages 44-18, and 44-19. It does not mention adjustments to rear camber - after all, as far as Audi is concerned - the TT does not have adjustable tie bars, and this is an Audi document. So the values given in the chart are just a reference as to what you should SEE assuming nothing is bent or broken - not what you actually NEED to maintain performance and good tyre wear with a lowered vehicle. That's the way I see it. Views?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
TT51 said:
You may find this thread of some interest Steve

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=166139
Cheers. What Wak (God) says in that thread just validates what I've been saying about the Audi chart. Now all we have to do is get garages to understand that much!
 

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Here is the Audi chart, for what it's worth. I've set my camber to 1 deg 30 min negative, each side. My ride height is 345 mm. My rear toe-in is 8 min each side at the moment. All with a full tank of petrol. If your tank is only a quarter full it could make a difference of up to 10 mins. Hope that helps.



Joe
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
TTCool said:
Here is the Audi chart, for what it's worth. I've set my camber to 1 deg 30 min negative, each side. My ride height is 345 mm. My rear toe-in is 8 min each side at the moment. All with a full tank of petrol. If your tank is only a quarter full it could make a difference of up to 10 mins. Hope that helps.



Joe
Hi Joe, thanks for the input. I'd already found the Audi chart, I've downloaded a full Audi alignment pdf - see link above. Although your figure of 1 deg 30 sounds right, based on what I've learnt in the past 24 hours(!) I'm not sure why you mention ride height, as it is of no consequence when you are in a position to adjust rear camber angle, as with adjustable tie bars. The table is just a check chart for cars without adjustable tie bars.

Re fuel load, good point, it begs the question, do you set up rear camber with full, half or no fuel load? I would say half, so as to spread the error either side.
 

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Hi Steve

I mentioned ride height so as to be able to relate to the Audi chart (-2 deg 22 min) and to give readers a chance to compare their ride height with mine...out of interest.

You are quite right. No matter what the ride height is, the camber needs to be adjusted to your preferred setting.

Joe
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Right. Just took my car back to place of alignment. Camber at back WAS way out. However, I'm assured it definitely was not like this when it was done a couple of weeks ago. And to be fair, I would have noticed as I recall looking all round the car as Milltek had also been fitted. I would definitely have noticed - it was that bad.

All we can think of is that somehow some settling has happened, possibly relating to the fitting of the adjustable tie bars - movement or something. It's a mystery. Anyway, all is right now, 1 deg 30' set. Anyone any idea why the rear camber suddenly increased after a week or so of fitting the adjustable and what was - at the time - a perfect rear camber set?
 

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ttsteve said:
Right. Just took my car back to place of alignment. Camber at back WAS way out. However, I'm assured it definitely was not like this when it was done a couple of weeks ago. And to be fair, I would have noticed as I recall looking all round the car as Milltek had also been fitted. I would definitely have noticed - it was that bad.

All we can think of is that somehow some settling has happened, possibly relating to the fitting of the adjustable tie bars - movement or something. It's a mystery. Anyway, all is right now, 1 deg 30' set. Anyone any idea why the rear camber suddenly increased after a week or so of fitting the adjustable and what was - at the time - a perfect rear camber set?
When the adjustable tie bars were fitted, did they roll the car and bounce the chassis before tightening the bolts? Was the final tightening carried out with the weight of the car on the ground?

Joe
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
TTCool said:
ttsteve said:
Right. Just took my car back to place of alignment. Camber at back WAS way out. However, I'm assured it definitely was not like this when it was done a couple of weeks ago. And to be fair, I would have noticed as I recall looking all round the car as Milltek had also been fitted. I would definitely have noticed - it was that bad.

All we can think of is that somehow some settling has happened, possibly relating to the fitting of the adjustable tie bars - movement or something. It's a mystery. Anyway, all is right now, 1 deg 30' set. Anyone any idea why the rear camber suddenly increased after a week or so of fitting the adjustable and what was - at the time - a perfect rear camber set?
When the adjustable tie bars were fitted, did they roll the car and bounce the chassis before tightening the bolts? Was the final tightening carried out with the weight of the car on the ground?

Joe
Joe, I'm gonna check, but I guess re the former, no. What does that roll and bounce do then? (obviously it sorts it out - but exactly what happens? is it something Forge say you have to do?). Re the latter - what difference does it make if the car is sitting on the ground or on a 4 wheel lift? Cheers. We're getting there.....
 

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ttsteve said:
TTCool said:
ttsteve said:
Right. Just took my car back to place of alignment. Camber at back WAS way out. However, I'm assured it definitely was not like this when it was done a couple of weeks ago. And to be fair, I would have noticed as I recall looking all round the car as Milltek had also been fitted. I would definitely have noticed - it was that bad.

All we can think of is that somehow some settling has happened, possibly relating to the fitting of the adjustable tie bars - movement or something. It's a mystery. Anyway, all is right now, 1 deg 30' set. Anyone any idea why the rear camber suddenly increased after a week or so of fitting the adjustable and what was - at the time - a perfect rear camber set?
When the adjustable tie bars were fitted, did they roll the car and bounce the chassis before tightening the bolts? Was the final tightening carried out with the weight of the car on the ground?

Joe
Joe, I'm gonna check, but I guess re the former, no. What does that roll and bounce do then? (obviously it sorts it out - but exactly what happens? is it something Forge say you have to do?). Re the latter - what difference does it make if the car is sitting on the ground or on a 4 wheel lift? Cheers. We're getting there.....
Steve, it makes all the deference in the world. A supplier will not necessarily tell you how to do the job. It's up to the expert technician to know what he is doing. That's not to say your people don't know what they are doing.

Rolling and or bouncing with the bolts not fully tightened, but tightened enough to hold things together while carrying out the settling procedure, will allow the bushes to settle before final tightening. If the car is suspended when you tighten the bolts they will be locked in that position which is not the natural position on the road when being driven. After a while, maybe only a short while, due to the forces exerted on your suspension things will be forced to settle but they will not settle properly and therefore what camber was correct initially will not now be so.

Hope that helps but it's just a suggestion on my part.

Joe
 
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