I had them on my MK4 Jetta with the Passat Mod. I know how bright they should be. I spent the money on the full LED TT MK2 Courtesy Light with the SMD red LEDs and was NOT happy with the output. There was no output unless you were staring into the light. In addition, the white lights were also pretty useless. I know the red light it is supposed to be unobtrusive. But, it also needs to be bright enough to actually see something in the dark if necessary. I was asking for MT-V6's insight on that. I guess it doesn't really matter because now I am soldering. I will provide feedback as soon as I get it all sorted.
Retrofitting Courtesy Lights
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For those in The States, these are the parts I used to get results similar to what Volkswagen Automotive Group has traditionally delivered on NAR vehicles...
//PARTS
20pk of 3mm Red LEDs - https://amzn.to/3A1vmiq (Plenty of extras to make local friends with!)
50pk of 3mm LED Holders - https://amzn.to/39LEXiO
T10 W5W Bulbs (Optional) - CLEARANCE HKP™ T10 W5W Osram 3-SMD LED Bulb
//METHOD
I followed the same instructions that were provided above. Solder Ground (-) to PIN1 and Illumination (+) to PIN4. I used a little extra heat shrink tubing to bind my wires to the Bluetooth microphone. I wanted to make sure the wires couldn't pull or vibrate. You could also put a few dabs of hot glue on your solder connections to reinforce them. I didn't, but you could. The LED Holders are a tight fit. They are a little too tight, actually. I used a pair of needle nose pliers and a palm sander to take one edge (the leftmost/rightmost edge, when installed) off the holder. I also trimmed a little of the light assembly so that the LED Holder sits flush with the top of the gray plastic. If you don't, the black cover will come into contact with the LED Holder. I thought about permanently melting it into place with one of my crap solder irons (the one I melt plastic and burn wood with), but decided against it for future removal and repair. Instead, I used a couple small dabs of hot glue, both front and back. Ensure you the LED is plumb before hot gluing. Take your time here, this is the step that will decide weather your results are good looking or halfass/shite. Also, ensure you have enough room to reinstall the garage door opener module, if equipped. For best results, drill holes with a 9/64" drill bit. The color of the plastic will show from the bottom, but is easily touched up with a black Sharpie or other permanent marker directly in the hole. There you go! Enjoy!
On a related note, after performing this upgrade, I had a few issues with my ZIZA T10 Canbus Bulbs (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ziza-pa...o-collar-canbus-priced-each/plt1055050wht~zi/) flickering on fadeout. However, I swapped to some super-inexpensive NON-Canbus bulbs I picked up locally from HID Kit Pros (on Clearance), and all issues were resolved. No bulb errors are logged in the CEM and no ghosting from leftover, residual power. The color temperature is pretty close to the same as my other ZIZA bulbs, which are ~5500K. They are not Lifetime Warranty, like the ECS Bulbs. However, since they are 1/13 the price of ECS' bulbs, I went ahead and bought a couple handfuls of them! ...the bulbs look like they were clearanced because the OEM branding logo for HKP came out garbled on half of the LED bulbs. I don't care - let there be light!
//PARTS
20pk of 3mm Red LEDs - https://amzn.to/3A1vmiq (Plenty of extras to make local friends with!)
50pk of 3mm LED Holders - https://amzn.to/39LEXiO
T10 W5W Bulbs (Optional) - CLEARANCE HKP™ T10 W5W Osram 3-SMD LED Bulb
//METHOD
I followed the same instructions that were provided above. Solder Ground (-) to PIN1 and Illumination (+) to PIN4. I used a little extra heat shrink tubing to bind my wires to the Bluetooth microphone. I wanted to make sure the wires couldn't pull or vibrate. You could also put a few dabs of hot glue on your solder connections to reinforce them. I didn't, but you could. The LED Holders are a tight fit. They are a little too tight, actually. I used a pair of needle nose pliers and a palm sander to take one edge (the leftmost/rightmost edge, when installed) off the holder. I also trimmed a little of the light assembly so that the LED Holder sits flush with the top of the gray plastic. If you don't, the black cover will come into contact with the LED Holder. I thought about permanently melting it into place with one of my crap solder irons (the one I melt plastic and burn wood with), but decided against it for future removal and repair. Instead, I used a couple small dabs of hot glue, both front and back. Ensure you the LED is plumb before hot gluing. Take your time here, this is the step that will decide weather your results are good looking or halfass/shite. Also, ensure you have enough room to reinstall the garage door opener module, if equipped. For best results, drill holes with a 9/64" drill bit. The color of the plastic will show from the bottom, but is easily touched up with a black Sharpie or other permanent marker directly in the hole. There you go! Enjoy!
On a related note, after performing this upgrade, I had a few issues with my ZIZA T10 Canbus Bulbs (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ziza-pa...o-collar-canbus-priced-each/plt1055050wht~zi/) flickering on fadeout. However, I swapped to some super-inexpensive NON-Canbus bulbs I picked up locally from HID Kit Pros (on Clearance), and all issues were resolved. No bulb errors are logged in the CEM and no ghosting from leftover, residual power. The color temperature is pretty close to the same as my other ZIZA bulbs, which are ~5500K. They are not Lifetime Warranty, like the ECS Bulbs. However, since they are 1/13 the price of ECS' bulbs, I went ahead and bought a couple handfuls of them! ...the bulbs look like they were clearanced because the OEM branding logo for HKP came out garbled on half of the LED bulbs. I don't care - let there be light!
81 - 83 of 83 Posts
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