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Discussion Starter · #41 · (Edited)
Quick update: After uping the power giving some ignition at around 15.8 we managed to reach 690+whp with just low boost and plain fuel pump but we are having some issues making the Transmission "listen" to the required pressure we want so we dont destroy the clutch basket and clutch plates. We are recieving lower pressure than requested and its not adapting to the flashes. Need to do some checks on Monday and check if a) The Bartek higher transmission cooler is dropping the pressure for some reason b) The transmission oil pump is not working properly c) The mechatronic unit isnt cooperating

In the worst case scenario the Mechatronic is busted and need to get a new one. Monday will reveal the culprit. Engine seems to be great at this point.
 

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Quick update: After uping the power giving some ignition at around 15.8 we managed to reach 690+whp with just low boost and plain fuel pump but we are having some issues making the Transmission "listen" to the required pressure we want so we dont destroy the clutch basket and clutch plates. We are recieving lower pressure than requested and its not adapting to the flashes. Need to do some checks on Monday and check if a) The Bartek higher transmission cooler is dropping the pressure for some reason b) The transmission oil pump is not working properly c) The mechatronic unit isnt cooperating

In the worst case scenario the Mechatronic is busted and need to get a new one. Monday will reveal the culprit. Engine seems to be great at this point.

In regards to the G35-1050 turbo I cant say that I am impressed for now. We have boosted up to 2.65 bars of boost with low timing and ignition for safety reasons and low RPM around 8200.
Car got almost 100whp from 7500-8200.

Next step is finding the issue that causes the transmission to act up, up the RPM to 8800 and up the timing/ignition a bit more. Then comes the Fuel octane power booster and then comes the Race gas file.

Still massively impressive what you've managed so far
Very interested to see once you've found the issue with the gearbox and can send it harder!
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 · (Edited)
Still massively impressive what you've managed so far
Very interested to see once you've found the issue with the gearbox and can send it harder!
So after having nightmares of what might be the issue that was refussing to increase and deliver the requested oil psi for the transmission we found out that the OEM VW/Audi top transmission filter the one that is located inside the plastic cover had randomly failed and it was restricting the oil flow. Changed the filter and the transmission fluids with OEM VW/AUDI oil. Have you guys seen anything similar? Audi said that is a very rare thing to happen as they have seen it only twice. Reinstalling the BARTEK transmission cooler after the tune is finished to avoid any chance of mulfuction, but I doubt that there will be any since we found the culprit.

Current numbers: so far are 699whp and 8200rpm redline with pump gas + Meth and medium timing/ignition 15.8
Next file was going to be the final file with 16.5+ timing/ignition and 600more RPM and increased transmission oi pressure.

The car got from 7500-8000 rpm a power increase of almost 100whp so I guess after increasing the timing/ignition and reaching 8.800 rpm (car reach 9.300 if needed but we are avoiding for safety reasons) we will see another +-80whp on regular pump gas.

Next steps to follow are fuel octane+power increase additive in regular pump gas and then make a final file with race fuel.
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Discussion Starter · #45 · (Edited)
Quick update:

Even though after changing oil in the transmission it seemed to work as it should today at the dyno again there wasnt enough pressure given when requested but the ECU. Gotta check if the bad oil filter has left or clogged any holes in the transmission and then its time to take it apart to check the inner filter.
:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:
 

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Quick update:

Even though after changing oil in the transmission it seemed to work as it should today at the dyno again there wasnt enough pressure given when requested but the ECU. Gotta check if the bad oil filter has left or clogged any holes in the transmission and then its time to take it apart to check the inner filter.
:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:
if as appears in the photos the air intake is receiving air from INSIDE the engine compartment then the air will be 100 degrees hotter than it should be negating the intercooler, that could lose 5-15 BHP on a standard car , maybe much more on this! convert it to a system that takes air direct from the front outside the car , all audis have cold air intakes as standard
 

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if as appears in the photos the air intake is receiving air from INSIDE the engine compartment then the air will be 100 degrees hotter than it should be negating the intercooler, that could lose 5-15 BHP on a standard car , maybe much more on this! convert it to a system that takes air direct from the front outside the car , all audis have cold air intakes as standard
What a load of shite :ROFLMAO:
Even in F not C it would not be close to 100 degrees.
We are talking a turbo car - you're about to throw it the air through a red hot turbo - ambient temperature of the engine bay on the filter makes 0 difference.

On my car... TTS, still with a stock KO4 turbo/engine internals & injectors but tuned to 380hp / 410ftlbs - open filter vs stock airbox. My IAT temps are THE EXACT SAME!
But the filter flows are the stock airbox is restrictive. Again something that has been proven - past a certain tuning prospective, the stock airbox is restrcitive.

Let alone when we are talking at the levels of the car in this thread, not a standard car so your point is even more meaningless
Turbo cars - More air > Cold air. Proven repeatedly
 

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What a load of shite :ROFLMAO:


"On my car... TTS, still with a stock KO4 turbo/engine internals & injectors but tuned to 380hp / 410ftlbs - open filter vs stock airbox. My IAT temps are THE EXACT SAME!"

Good point for the TTS airbox configuration, nice build, congratulations. I do have a caveat though, My car, 2012 TTRS has a different airbox, it has an air duct opening on the side of the airbox that admits additional air in the form of heated engine compartment air. I live in Florida, very hot. I was concerned about the 140-160 degree IATs. Typical IATs at 120 kmh cruising were about 136-142 degrees. Added a larger intercooler, dropped IATs by about 10 degrees. Cut off the air duct opening and added a ram air tube that admits ambient air from a venturi located in the drivers side lower air duct. This addition lowered IAT by another 10-15 degrees, it works so well that as I accelerate from 120 kmh I can watch the IAT drop, in one instance from 126 degrees to 118 degrees by the time I reached 150 kmh. You can watch the IAT drop in real time on acceleration due to the ram air effect.

So, I'm pretty sure that if you added the same type of ram air kit to a TTS airbox you would experience the same thing? I use a 034 closed top system, with an open system you're stuck with heated engine compartment air.

@ Audittnumb, great build and great thread, ty!
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
if as appears in the photos the air intake is receiving air from INSIDE the engine compartment then the air will be 100 degrees hotter than it should be negating the intercooler, that could lose 5-15 BHP on a standard car , maybe much more on this! convert it to a system that takes air direct from the front outside the car , all audis have cold air intakes as standard
I do have hoses running towards the air intake no worries. At this point the air gap that the OEM TT provides is like blowing a fire with your mouth to extinguish it haha. After I am done with the tune I will be thinking of doing a "headlight" duct intake meaning drilling the headlight and installing a tunnel that will guide fresh cold air directly to the intake filter.

What Barr_end said though is correct More air>Cold air in these applications. Your are making a valid point though TTRSgeek
 

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What a load of shite :ROFLMAO:
Even in F not C it would not be close to 100 degrees.
We are talking a turbo car - you're about to throw it the air through a red hot turbo - ambient temperature of the engine bay on the filter makes 0 difference.

On my car... TTS, still with a stock KO4 turbo/engine internals & injectors but tuned to 380hp / 410ftlbs - open filter vs stock airbox. My IAT temps are THE EXACT SAME!
But the filter flows are the stock airbox is restrictive. Again something that has been proven - past a certain tuning prospective, the stock airbox is restrcitive.

Let alone when we are talking at the levels of the car in this thread, not a standard car so your point is even more meaningless
Turbo cars - More air > Cold air. Proven repeatedly
clearly your knowledge of thermodynamics is a long way short of whats needed to be an authority on turbo technology and gas flow , if you want to pump air into the turbo that's up to 100 degrees hotter than it needs to be you are free to do so , sourcing the input air in the engine compartment means much hotter air is entering the system than needs to be , that may get even hotter in the turbo leaving the intercooler unable to work optimally , a car producing this level of power will produce even more heat than standard , if you have a red hot turbo( which is water cooled?) then your problems go beyond inatake air temperature and fuel efficiency go ahead waste money lose power see if I care
 

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I do have hoses running towards the air intake no worries. At this point the air gap that the OEM TT provides is like blowing a fire with your mouth to extinguish it haha. After I am done with the tune I will be thinking of doing a "headlight" duct intake meaning drilling the headlight and installing a tunnel that will guide fresh cold air directly to the intake filter.

What Barr_end said though is correct More air>Cold air in these applications. Your are making a valid point though TTRSgeek
That would be an addition I think you'd benefit from. Attached some pics of the Ram Air hose installation..it will work on any lower air box, but obviously better on a closed system (like a The Tuner air box cover). The pic of the driver's side air channel shows a round drawing where I cut it open for the air hose. The kit is available from Hperformance in Germany and works quite well. Cheers!
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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
☠That would be an addition I think you'd benefit from. Attached some pics of the Ram Air hose installation..it will work on any lower air box, but obviously better on a closed system (like a The Tuner air box cover). The pic of the driver's side air channel shows a round drawing where I cut it open for the air hose. The kit is available from Hperformance in Germany and works quite well. Cheers!
Already have this ! Next step is drilling the headlight ☠☠☠
 

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clearly your knowledge of thermodynamics is a long way short of whats needed to be an authority on turbo technology and gas flow , if you want to pump air into the turbo that's up to 100 degrees hotter than it needs to be you are free to do so , sourcing the input air in the engine compartment means much hotter air is entering the system than needs to be , that may get even hotter in the turbo leaving the intercooler unable to work optimally , a car producing this level of power will produce even more heat than standard , if you have a red hot turbo( which is water cooled?) then your problems go beyond inatake air temperature and fuel efficiency go ahead waste money lose power see if I care
If you could read the reply you're trying to pick apart it would be massively helpful - none of your reply applies to the situation I have typed out & you had to try take the only part you did read, literally.

I'm not going to waste my time structuring a proper response, really isn't worth my time.
This has 0 to do with knowledge, my statement is backed up with fact from testing.
Stock enclosed box vs open filter - both intake air temps are EXACTLY THE SAME!
Cruising at a speed of anything over 40mph - these temps are 2C BELOW ambient with EGT temps of 600C + dependant on speed & load.
That's before the meth kicks in.
I am more than happy in the know this is decent and nothing like the ramble you're posting.

As said, proven, tested, FACT.
Not an over inflated ego that feels the need to spam & try to belittle within an owners thread with a pretty incredible build.

Good point for the TTS airbox configuration, nice build, congratulations. I do have a caveat though, My car, 2012 TTRS has a different airbox, it has an air duct opening on the side of the airbox that admits additional air in the form of heated engine compartment air. I live in Florida, very hot. I was concerned about the 140-160 degree IATs. Typical IATs at 120 kmh cruising were about 136-142 degrees. Added a larger intercooler, dropped IATs by about 10 degrees. Cut off the air duct opening and added a ram air tube that admits ambient air from a venturi located in the drivers side lower air duct. This addition lowered IAT by another 10-15 degrees, it works so well that as I accelerate from 120 kmh I can watch the IAT drop, in one instance from 126 degrees to 118 degrees by the time I reached 150 kmh. You can watch the IAT drop in real time on acceleration due to the ram air effect.

So, I'm pretty sure that if you added the same type of ram air kit to a TTS airbox you would experience the same thing? I use a 034 closed top system, with an open system you're stuck with heated engine compartment air.

@ Audittnumb, great build and great thread, ty!
Didn't see this as it was buried into my own quote so I copied it out.
You are spot on, TTS box is decent and fine for 2L TFSI stage 2 power levels with no restrictions, but on the higher side of stage 2+ over 350hp / 365ftlbs ISH they become a bottle neck.
Where as I have seen that the RS box isn't a noticable enough restriction at stage 2 on the 2.5!

Interesting you measured a nice noticeable different! I as the OP is - also already run a tube aimed at the filter.
It is a very good point that these make a difference and with your testing really showing it's worth.
I might try do some more testing with this removed from the open filter and connect to the TTS box, but there isn't an opening like the RS box has to do so... So modifications are needed!

I myself am going to now stop spamming TTNumbs thread though and let him carry on sharing his mega build :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
I myself am going to now stop spamming TTNumbs thread though and let him carry on sharing his mega build :cool:
Spam all you want I like a little drama in my life and threads 😂😂🤣hahaahah plus I find real life testing more helpfull than theoretical physics.

UPDATE:
Changed the Mecatronic unit, seems that the problem is fixed.
Hopefully new tune date is due on the 18/11/21🤞🤞🤞
 

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Already have this ! Next step is drilling the headlight ☠☠☠
First, great to hear that changing the Mechatronic unit fixed your issues, great diagnostics. I really don't understand 'drilling the headlight', the air hose from the HPerformance kit fits perfectly behind the headlamp ass'y, which as you know is easily removed by removing the top center screw and loosening the other two. Keep the dirty side down mate!
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 · (Edited)
Spam all you want I like a little drama in my life and threads 😂😂🤣hahaahah plus I find real life testing more helpfull than theoretical physics.

UPDATE:
Changed the Mecatronic unit, seems that the problem is fixed.
Hopefully new tune date is due on the 18/11/21🤞🤞🤞
First, great to hear that changing the Mechatronic unit fixed your issues, great diagnostics. I really don't understand 'drilling the headlight', the air hose from the HPerformance kit fits perfectly behind the headlamp ass'y, which as you know is easily removed by removing the top center screw and loosening the other two. Keep the dirty side down mate!
I want it to look meaner and badass. Not sure Im doing it, just thinking about it. Ill upload some pics from the hose setup I have now in the coming days.
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
Interior aesthetic update:
So while waiting for a tune date this showed up! Loving it, very easy to install if you have the rear seats removed, purely aesthetic mod since it just clamps in the rear two cover trunk backets.
Full carbon strut bar, with custom net stiching in red and a full carpet with also custom red stitching from Stern Performance.
If you can see the small height difference on the passenger side its because under there are the secondary pump and fuel lines so it bulges out a bit messing up the clean look but otherwise its kinda hard to notice.
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If you are going to stick with the DQ250 I would get a stage 3 map from TVS. They are just about the best people in mapping DSG gearboxes. To get a DQ250 gearbox to create 18-19 bar clamp pressure thatf may get you somewhere near to 750Nm torque handling requires more than just altering the maps in the stock DQ250 gearbox map. TVS has rewritten parts of the code to remove limiters and alter the way the gearbox works, altering the way the oil cooling works and how the gearbox protection strategy operates. I have a stage 3 map on my MK1 TT that I converted to a DSG with a 2012 TTS gearbox.
With the targets you have in mind 900 whp would be something like 1050bhp at the crank. You need a DQ500 gearbox. People have used the DQ250 gearbox in very high powered drag cars but usually they have removed the standard mechatronic and use an external controller similar to an HTG along with mechanical hardware modifications to the gearbox.
The DQ250 gearbox with an uprated clutch and running 18-19 bar clamping pressure will hold around 750Nm of torque. If your engine is making 750Nm (550lb/ft ) the engine needs to be running at 10000 RPM to make 1050bhp.

If you want to make 1050bhp at a more sensible RPM say 8500 RPM that requires 650Lb/ft of torque which is 880Nm . Looking at the failure you seem to have had with the oil filter I would say that the gearbox oil has got very hot at some point. Wouldn't surprise me,I only have a G25-660 on my engine making just over 500bhp and I have monitored gearbox oil temps with VCDS when mapping the car on the road and the speed of increase in temps is pretty scary. Have a read of the DQ250 SSP to see how the gearbox works.
In the stock gearbox if oil temps get above 135 degrees C the gearbox will request massive torque limitation from the ECU and limit torque to a very low limit. Easy to alter these gearbox protection strategies and allow oil temps to go higher, Unfortunately the mechatronic runs in the gearbox oil and will get damaged.
The oil that flows through the oil cooler and through that filter just goes to spray bars in the top of the gearbox that sprays oil onto the gears. The reduction in clamping pressure that you were seeing was probably because flow through the oil cooler was restricted which increased oil temps and thus caused torque limitation.
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