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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I've picked up a complete OEM+ suspension improvement setup. An unboxing video will drop tomorrow on this thread.

1 CTS turbo upgraded motor mount
2 CTS turbo upgraded transmission mount
3 CTS turbo upgraded front subframe collar inserts and bolt kit
4 CTS turbo upgraded rear subframe collar inserts and bolt kit
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2012 Stage2 TTS coupe
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Did you get new stretch bolts to go with your mounts? ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Are CTS Turbo products absolute rubbish?

I'm not sure until I try my current products out, however, there have been some slight jabs at CTS Turbo from various sources stating that they rip off other brands RND and have the parts mass produced in Asia. I'm not 100% sure but I have found their catch can kits on "Aliexpress" along with a bunch of other products they carry. Ironically it was due to CTS Turbo parts that I stumbled upon the "Aliexpress" website. Why am I bringing this up?

Well..... many people have mentioned that the CTS Turbo OEM+ motor & transmission mounts are identical to the 034 Motorsports mounts and I've even seen a video where the 034 motorsports guys claim that "someone" has knocked them off, again all this could just be massive amounts of speculation but I'll be a Devils advocate and say I'm a bit disappointed in the mounts regardless of who designed them. But before I dive into why, here's some info from both 034 & CTS.

We're proud to announce the availability of the Density Line Engine Mount Pair for MkV & MkVI Chassis Volkswagen and 8P & 8J Chassis Audi models!
034Motorsport's Density Line Mounts are the new standard in comfort and performance. Our mounts are redesigned with performance in mind, and manufactured from high-durometer rubber for increased performance and durability, without sacrificing comfort. Density Line Mounts are fluid-free, eliminating the slop associated with the factory mounts.
Street Density:
The Street Density Engine Mount Pair is manufactured from 60 durometer rubber, which is approximately 35% stiffer than stock. Since the mounts are also solid-filled, the resulting mount is approximately 60% stiffer than stock. The cast aluminum mount bodies have also been redesigned to cope with the added stress of spirited driving.
The result is greatly reduced drivetrain slop, crisper shifting, and minimal wheel hop, without any significant increase in noise, vibration, or harshness (NVH) inside of the cabin. These mounts are a completely re-engineered performance solution, not just inserts for use with the factory mounts.

Features:
  • Manufactured from 60 Durometer (Street Density) Rubber with Fluid-Free Construction
  • Reduced Drivetrain Slop
  • Decreased Engine Movement Under Load
  • More Direct Power Transfer
  • Improved Shifting Feel
  • Complete Drop-In Replacement of Factory Engine/Transmission Mounts
  • Sold in Pairs (One Engine Mount & One Transmission Mount)
High-Durometer Rubber vs. Polyurethane:
Density Line Mounts are manufactured from high-durometer rubber instead of polyurethane for a number of reasons. While vulcanized rubber mounts are more expensive to prototype due to increased complexity of manufacturing and high initial tooling costs, rubber is inherently better than polyurethane as a damping medium for mounts and bushings.
Rubber is able to deal with stress under both tension and compression, while polyurethane mounts rely on the damping medium to be effective only under compression. Rubber is also excellent in shear, where polyurethane is ineffective, making it ideal for control arm bushings that apply a shear force to the bushing during articulation.
Rubber does not pack and wear like polyurethane does, which ultimately results in a long-lasting part with consistent performance and comfort.
Street Density vs. Track Density:
We recommend Street Density Mounts for all daily-driven vehicles.
They offer a significant increase in performance with a minimal increase in NVH transfer into the cabin. Track Density Mounts are recommended for purpose-built track cars, or those who do not mind significantly increased engine noise and vibration in the cabin.
NOTE: This Street Density Mount application features stiffer and less compliant rubber, however, the mount is not designed to see significantly larger amounts of abuse, as Density Mounts use a similar design and construction to the OEM mounts. This means that driving dynamics are improved, but these mounts are not necessarily suited for more punishing applications or abuse. Normal "sport driving" will typically see these mounts lasting up to 50k miles or more. More abusive use, such as aggressive drag racing, clutch dumps, aggressive shifting, and big increases in power, can cause these mounts to fail or wear prematurely, typically in 20k miles or less. For mounts that will sustain the latter abusive scenarios, we strongly recommend our Motorsport Mounts which are designed for specifically for such use.

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DESCRIPTION
CTS Turbo is excited to announce our line of Street Sport 60 Durometer engine mounts.
The CTS street performance engine mounts are a perfect upgrade for your factory mounts which are known to wear over time leading to drivetrain play and sloppiness during shifting. A void-free non-liquid construction using 60 Durometer rubber offers a significant upgrade to performance and feel over the stock mount. The result is a 60% improvement in stiffness over stock that is daily driving friendly.
Features:
• 60 Durometer Rubber construction
• Cast aluminum wrap-around OEM style body
• Direct bolt on replacement for OEM mount
• More direct shifting
• Improved power transfer

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If you take a look through my CLOSER LOOK VIDEO you'll see that the interior rubber mounts inside look like multiple pieces of rubber just slotted in together like Lego blocks. Maybe it's just me, maybe its my naïve imagination that there was going to be one solid rubber block inside the OEM case, but that wasn't the case scenario. Truth be told since I've already purchased the setup I'm going to give it a try and relay my experiences.

Truth be told I'm only involved in spirited driving when I auto cross and the occasional quarter mile, its not like I need a track setup. Anyways enjoy the video and let me know what you think.
 

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It's hard to say who ripping off who.

Personally I don't think there is a lot of R&D going on with any of the aftermarket parts manufacturers. Certainly not at the level or budget an auto manufacturer has access to.

Any company that has access to a CNC machine can crank out widgets, and not surprisingly widgets that look remarkably similar to each other... and to be truthful, the target market for aftermarket parts are peps who generally don't have a background in engineering, physics or auto mechanics so there is no problem selling their crap wares (regardless of their value or 'effectiveness')

In the case of 034 vs CTS, replacing the fluid filled insert with a solid rubber bushing (using a factory housing) isn't a real leap in engineering. Maybe one hit the market before the other, BFD.

Can't see one company claiming that hours of research were 'stolen' based on that idea.
If anything both companies ripped off the engineer who designed the first fluid-filled damper and then want bragging-rights for "dumbing" it down.
:devilish:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It's hard to say who ripping off who.

Personally I don't think there is a lot of R&D going on with any of the aftermarket parts manufacturers. Certainly not at the level or budget an auto manufacturer has access to.

Any company that has access to a CNC machine can crank out widgets, and not surprisingly widgets that look remarkably similar to each other... and to be truthful, the target market for aftermarket parts are peps who generally don't have a background in engineering, physics or auto mechanics so there is no problem selling their crap wares (regardless of their value or 'effectiveness')

In the case of 034 vs CTS, replacing the fluid filled insert with a solid rubber bushing (using a factory housing) isn't a real leap in engineering. Maybe one hit the market before the other, BFD.

Can't see one company claiming that hours of research were 'stolen' based on that idea.
If anything both companies ripped off the engineer who designed the first fluid-filled damper and then want bragging-rights for "dumbing" it down.
:devilish:

That's a great way of looking at it. Always as thought provoking as ever 👍
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I picked this OBD2 smartphone blue tooth reader called FIXD. Aside from all the shitty stuff that's happened to the car, (scratchy humming sound from the turbo) for example I've come to realize that there's more than just a bad turbo or blown head gasket. Great tool that I recommend for educational purposes.
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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Hi all,

Update, I am waiting on the HPA K04 HYBRID TURBO to arrive here in Atlantic Canada so that I can finally fix all of the little issues my car is having and get back on the road. There have been some supply issues and that's delayed HPA from putting the turbo together and shipping them out as fast as they can.

However, do not worry as I will commit to a complete unboxing and comparison video on the turbo.

Stay tuned.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I was fiddling around with the WMI nozzle and the throttle body spacer and realized that it won't fit flush, even if I thread it all the way in. Which brings up a question for all those running water methanol, how flush did you setup your nozzles and why?

Depressed, flush or poke?

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Standard fitting is 1/8" NPT. NPT is a tapered thread, so it will never thread all the way in like a machine screw or similar type of thread.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Standard fitting is 1/8" NPT. NPT is a tapered thread, so it will never thread all the way in like a machine screw or similar type of thread.

I figured my nozzle wouldn't be completely flush and therefore remain slightly depressed (typically a good thing for atomization), but my curiosity was the reasoning why others running WMI would mount their nozzles past flush. For example intercooler pipes, intake manifolds etc. The first few CM's past the nozzle exit the WM mix is still very much a stream of fluid before separating into water droplets. If its beneficial to have a depressed nozzle in order to have a maturing spray cone pattern into the air stream.

However I see a lot of setups do the opposite and figured I'd ask why.
 

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According to the following doc I found @ https://www.nitrousexpress.com/images/Sno201.pdf

Page 6, Quote:
“Install the nozzle at a 90°angle to the direction of airflow, and so that the nozzle tip is flush with the inside of the intake tube or protruding slightly to ensure an uninterrupted spray pattern. Ensure the nozzles cone of spray has no obstructions near the mounting location.”

“Install the nozzle assembly into the threaded intake tube using E-6000 sealant on the nozzle threads.”

Page10, “Do not use Teflon tape or paste to seal connections. These sealers are not as effective as the E-6000 sealant provided and can break down over time with high methanol use, clogging components.”
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
According to the following doc I found @ https://www.nitrousexpress.com/images/Sno201.pdf

Page 6, Quote:
“Install the nozzle at a 90°angle to the direction of airflow, and so that the nozzle tip is flush with the inside of the intake tube or protruding slightly to ensure an uninterrupted spray pattern. Ensure the nozzles cone of spray has no obstructions near the mounting location.”

“Install the nozzle assembly into the threaded intake tube using E-6000 sealant on the nozzle threads.”

Page10, “Do not use Teflon tape or paste to seal connections. These sealers are not as effective as the E-6000 sealant provided and can break down over time with high methanol use, clogging components.”

@FNChaos I understand the instruction manual, but that's solely based on the brands recommendations.

Please find two different installation manuals with two clearly different approaches to nozzle depth.

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Both brands are reputable, both depicted their nozzle placements clearly. My curiosity stems from the reasoning behind the depressed, flush and protruding placement benefits.
 

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The above mounting suggestion was for a Snow Performance system.

Page 12 of this AEM system states, ”In most instances, the air charge piping can be drilled and tapped for 1/8” NPT to directly mount the nozzle. If using thin walled tubing it’s suggested that a bung be welded to the piping. Mounting hole should be tapped deep enough to allow the end of the nozzle to be nearly flush with the interior of the intake once the nozzle is fully installed".

See: https://www.aemelectronics.com/site...thanol_Injection-No_Tank_InstructionsRevC.pdf

In both cases 'flush or nearly flush' is suggested. Guessing a flush mount will allow the maximum amount of pattern 'spread' and will not cause any turbulence or a 'dead-zone' behind the nozzle tip.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
The above mounting suggestion was for a Snow Performance system.

Page 12 of this AEM system states, ”In most instances, the air charge piping can be drilled and tapped for 1/8” NPT to directly mount the nozzle. If using thin walled tubing it’s suggested that a bung be welded to the piping. Mounting hole should be tapped deep enough to allow the end of the nozzle to be nearly flush with the interior of the intake once the nozzle is fully installed".

See: https://www.aemelectronics.com/site...thanol_Injection-No_Tank_InstructionsRevC.pdf

In both cases 'flush or nearly flush' is suggested. Guessing a flush mount will allow the maximum amount of pattern 'spread' and will not cause any turbulence or a 'dead-zone' behind the nozzle tip.
@FNChaos I'm not following the code here. Are you saying that sitting flush is the best and only option for nozzle placement? If so I would agree, but my comment about having some depression being good for the spray pattern and atomization still stands. If you notice, my snow performance nozzles are already depressed, therefore even if the nozzle were to be flush the initial stream is still a few cm/mm behind the mounting wall. Please see this video to see two different conical spray patterns both sitting flush.

Also there are many individuals that do not mount their nozzles flush or depressed but fully inside the "chamber" per this picture. I wondered why that was. If someone has an answer please do share.

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I absolutely love the technical information sharing but I'm not sure what is being proven with our exchange of posts, aside from the fact that many people mount their nozzles differently.

The water jet technology and it's cone shape has progressed over the years, however there's lots of information that can still be shared. Hopefully more members running WMI can chime in and share their experiences and feedback.

As far as my nozzle fitment is concerned I'll do my best to get it as flush as possible but if it sits slightly depressed I won't mind due to the conical spray pattern of the nozzle.

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Looking forward to keeping everyone up to date.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I purchased this cat back exhaust system recently. I'll be receiving it later this month due to shipping.

The K04 shouldn't suffer from back pressure with a full 3' piping from the turbo to CAT and back to a baffle free back box and 2.5' twin outlets.

I'll take some picture of when it arrives. LINK



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