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Would you buy this car

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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi guys,

So I got a new job and need to buy a car for it. I can finally afford one of my 'affordable' dream cars - MK2 TTS.

I visited one yesterday which had done 88000 km. It's from 2011 and looks in good condition. However, I went to get it professionally inspected (paid 90 pounds for it), and the following faults were noted:

1. Right windscreen wiper jet was not working
2. Rim rash on both leftside rims
3. Both rear vibration dampers were broken
4. Handbrake was not perfect
5. A little water/moisture down next to the battery in the trunk of the car
6. Moisture in the front headlights
7. Springs on the magnetic suspension were not original (seller said this is because previous owner changed them so that car could sit lower)

The seller told me that he could fix points 2,3 & 4 (and will also have a look at fixing point 1 if its not too expensive) for no extra cost. I am most worried about the moisture next to the battery. The moisture in front headlights is normal I think because the xenons have vents. 7 also seems like a non-issue.

What do you guys think?

EDIT: Sorry, forgot to mention - the price is approximately 18500 pounds. Also, I can afford to buy this car, so no worries about financials.
 

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Hi guys,

So I got a new job and need to buy a car for it. I can finally afford one of my 'affordable' dream cars - MK2 TTS.

I visited one yesterday which had done 88000 km. It's from 2011 and looks in good condition. However, I went to get it professionally inspected, and the following faults were noted:

1. Right windscreen wiper jet was not working
2. Rim rash on both leftside rims
3. Both rear vibration dampers were broken
4. Handbrake was not perfect
5. A little water/moisture down next to the battery in the trunk of the car
6. Moisture in the front headlights
7. Springs on the magnetic suspension were not original (seller said this is because previous owner changed them so that car could sit lower)

The seller told me that he could fix points 2,3 & 4 (and will also have a look at fixing point 1 if its not too expensive) for no extra cost. I am most worried about the moisture next to the battery. The moisture in front headlights is normal I think because the xenons have vents. 7 also seems like a non-issue.

What do you guys think?
Hello,
congrats on your new job! You never told us the price you are getting it for.

1. A child could do that by removing the sprinklers that are located in the boot pressure washing them or just leting them sit in a soda/ vinegar mix, then poke with a needle. It might not even need that just poke it and done.

2 and 3 since they are going to get fixed are things that could happen after 88.000 km of driving
4. Look into answer 2/3
5. The 8J model has some issues with moisture on the rear trunk area especially inside the side carpet where the amplifier is. There are several easy and inexpensive fixes for that.
6. Probably a headlight cap isnt properly shut or has gotten a bit crusty over the years letting moisture in
7. Thats not really an issue there is it?

Best regards,
Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hello,
congrats on your new job! You never told us the price you are getting it for.

1. A child could do that by removing the sprinklers that are located in the boot pressure washing them or just leting them sit in a soda/ vinegar mix, then poke with a needle. It might not even need that just poke it and done.

2 and 3 since they are going to get fixed are things that could happen after 88.000 km of driving
4. Look into answer 2/3
5. The 8J model has some issues with moisture on the rear trunk area especially inside the side carpet where the amplifier is. There are several easy and inexpensive fixes for that.
6. Probably a headlight cap isnt properly shut or has gotten a bit crusty over the years letting moisture in
7. Thats not really an issue there is it?

Best regards,
Mike
Thanks mate! Price is 18500 pounds. Just added to the post haha, forgot one of the most important things
 

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personally i would avoid, the battery water can be an absolute nightmare to fix, this car sounds unloved, if these are problems you can see what about the ones you cant??

at 88K it could be the beginning of a constant stream of problems, clutch, haldex, mag ride, there are many

for that money you should be able to find better
 

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As Audittnumb points out, repair items don't seem to be that big of an issue.

To me, the bigger concern is you wanting to buy your 'dream car' when you just started a job.

If you couldn't afford the car before your job, you are putting yourself in a financially precarious position by buying an expensive vehicle before you've had a chance to save a bit.

Personally, I'd be looking at something cheap and reliable to drive until I was certain that my job was secure, that I was happy with my employment and I had put away enough to cover minor catastrophes (i.e blown turbo, failed transmission, etc).
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
As Audittnumb points out, repair items don't seem to be that big of an issue.

To me, the bigger concern is you wanting to buy your 'dream car' when you just started a job.

If you couldn't afford the car before your job, you are putting yourself in a financially precarious position by buying an expensive vehicle before you've had a chance to save a bit.

Personally, I'd be looking at something cheap and reliable to drive until I was certain that my job was secure, that I was happy with my employment and I had put away enough to cover minor catastrophes (i.e blown turbo, failed transmission, etc).
I could afford the car before my job. I just didn't need a car as I live in a city where you can bike everywhere (new job is in a different region where car is the only travel option due to distances) ;) This car wouldn't hit me financially.
 

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As with any used car, it's worth paying a good mechanic go over and under it to check for any mechanical issues.They're never 100%, but a good will at least find things most starry-eyed buyers may over look. And always run an OBDII fault scan just to make sure there's no hidden faults.

Bottom line, you're paying a lot of money for a car that's over a decade old. And while you may be able to afford it, be sure you have some spare coins in your wallet if there are any major services ahead. The Mk2 may have depreciated in price over the years, but the cost of service and parts has not.
 

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Thanks mate! Price is 18500 pounds. Just added to the post haha, forgot one of the most important things
That is a fine price for a TTS model for 88.000km, thats like 54.000miles...I have a very different mentality than probably most of the guys here. If the price is good and I like the car I buy it.
Make sure that you dont have any major chasis damage and/or transmission issues etc etc at a good mechanic and be sure to expect something going wrong hopefully that wont be too expensive to fix. I mean it is beeing bought used with 88.000km on the clock.

Since you have a seller that is willing to cooperate work things out if you really like the car. On the other hand if something doesnt feel right keep looking cause you are going to buy a car that has limitlesss tuning potential, is super enjoyable and is super good looking even when compared to some 2022 four wheeled monstrosities that are out there.

for example mine started as a simple TT FWD 200hp base model with 160.000km bought 14.000EUR
Wheel Tire Vehicle Car Hood

and now its has been tuned at 700whp and are waiting to get past some COVID and transmission issues to reach the 900whp goal Quattro full RS bodykit and interior redesign and have spent more than 50k on it. I believe that the potential of this car is limitless.
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Hope I helped.
 

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Hi guys,

So I got a new job and need to buy a car for it. I can finally afford one of my 'affordable' dream cars - MK2 TTS.

I visited one yesterday which had done 88000 km. It's from 2011 and looks in good condition. However, I went to get it professionally inspected (paid 90 pounds for it), and the following faults were noted:

1. Right windscreen wiper jet was not working
2. Rim rash on both leftside rims
3. Both rear vibration dampers were broken
4. Handbrake was not perfect
5. A little water/moisture down next to the battery in the trunk of the car
6. Moisture in the front headlights
7. Springs on the magnetic suspension were not original (seller said this is because previous owner changed them so that car could sit lower)

The seller told me that he could fix points 2,3 & 4 (and will also have a look at fixing point 1 if its not too expensive) for no extra cost. I am most worried about the moisture next to the battery. The moisture in front headlights is normal I think because the xenons have vents. 7 also seems like a non-issue.

What do you guys think?

EDIT: Sorry, forgot to mention - the price is approximately 18500 pounds. Also, I can afford to buy this car, so no worries about financials.
If it was my car that I was selling and had all those issues I would be fixing them as well if I knew I was getting £18500:p that's a hefty price.
 

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Not sure what these go for in Germany, but as a recent buyer of 2011 TTS with 128k km on the clock, I would definitely watch out for some notorious issues these are quite known for!! -- such as High oil consumption caused by Piston rings/leaky valve stems or PCV.
It's an EA113 belt-driven engine, and as mentioned by someone else earlier, They have great potential if you're looking to tune them up!
Also looking at mileage, you will need to address the timing belt soon.
Do you have a link, so we can see it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
All good, decided against it. Found an absolutely clean 2014 Mk2 with only 72000 km / 45000 miles. He is selling it for 18500 pounds too hahaha
 

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Also price of used cars has gone up quite a bit during pandemic. I remember when I bought my 2012 TTS in 2017, for £17k folks on here were telling me it was over the odds.
 

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That is a fine price for a TTS model for 88.000km, thats like 54.000miles...I have a very different mentality than probably most of the guys here. If the price is good and I like the car I buy it.
Make sure that you dont have any major chasis damage and/or transmission issues etc etc at a good mechanic and be sure to expect something going wrong hopefully that wont be too expensive to fix. I mean it is beeing bought used with 88.000km on the clock.

Since you have a seller that is willing to cooperate work things out if you really like the car. On the other hand if something doesnt feel right keep looking cause you are going to buy a car that has limitlesss tuning potential, is super enjoyable and is super good looking even when compared to some 2022 four wheeled monstrosities that are out there.

for example mine started as a simple TT FWD 200hp base model with 160.000km bought 14.000EUR
View attachment 480466
and now its has been tuned at 700whp and are waiting to get past some COVID and transmission issues to reach the 900whp goal Quattro full RS bodykit and interior redesign and have spent more than 50k on it. I believe that the potential of this car is limitless.
View attachment 480467 View attachment 480468
View attachment 480465 View attachment 480469
View attachment 480472 View attachment 480471


Hope I helped.

Nice work, just a few questions; correct me if I am wrong but your rear seat delete consists of a custom carpet and the carbon bar and net resting on the OEM rear seat/ trunk cover mounting bracket right?
Any reason you didn't choose to run the lower chassis brace instead?

The engine bay looks sinister, where did you get the CNC intake manifold? Did you notice any benefit? I was going to pull the trigger on the HPA cast manifold but my wife and children got sick and I burned through alot of money on meds and household accessories to make life easier for them; therefore I am forced to simply do the RFD delete with an HPA tune to get some better top end power. Who is your tuner?

Looking forward to seeing your correspondence.
 

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Nice work, just a few questions; correct me if I am wrong but your rear seat delete consists of a custom carpet and the carbon bar and net resting on the OEM rear seat/ trunk cover mounting bracket right?
Any reason you didn't choose to run the lower chassis brace instead?

The engine bay looks sinister, where did you get the CNC intake manifold? Did you notice any benefit? I was going to pull the trigger on the HPA cast manifold but my wife and children got sick and I burned through alot of money on meds and household accessories to make life easier for them; therefore I am forced to simply do the RFD delete with an HPA tune to get some better top end power. Who is your tuner?

Looking forward to seeing your correspondence.

@Audittnumb Please disregard the previous post, I just read the sadistic 900whp thread and not only did I answer my own questions but I also realized that your one of those boost junkies from Greece (that's supposed to be a compliment). I now realize that your car is a street sleeping 10 second drag car.

I've read about alot of crazy builds and Greece keeps popping up on the radar, I didn't realize that the 1320 was such a big deal over there.

Anyways, I will stay subscribed to your build and hope that you over come the transmission problems.

Since your beyond my league, I'll just stick to my Stage 2 & maximizing the stock turbo performance for autocross :oops:. Maybe I'll join the 11-12 second club this year on race gas and observe your car as it hunts 9's from afar.

Best.
 

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@Audittnumb Please disregard the previous post, I just read the sadistic 900whp thread and not only did I answer my own questions but I also realized that your one of those boost junkies from Greece (that's supposed to be a compliment). I now realize that your car is a street sleeping 10 second drag car.

I've read about alot of crazy builds and Greece keeps popping up on the radar, I didn't realize that the 1320 was such a big deal over there.

Anyways, I will stay subscribed to your build and hope that you over come the transmission problems.

Since your beyond my league, I'll just stick to my Stage 2 & maximizing the stock turbo performance for autocross :oops:. Maybe I'll join the 11-12 second club this year on race gas and observe your car as it hunts 9's from afar.

Best.
Hey, compliment recieved,

Regardless to answer your questions:

The manifold is designed for a lot of horsepower but there are some manifolds available for lower hp goals if you would like I can source out some pics for you.
The car should be able to run a high 8 or at least a low 9'er on the quarter mile from what we have seen from other builds.
The tuner we are runing is Dynodrome and the mechanic is Boutris Service Performance I am very pleased with both of them.

Will be updating the build today with some progress on the transmission.

Hope your family is healthy and safe now!
 

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Hey, compliment recieved,

Regardless to answer your questions:

The manifold is designed for a lot of horsepower but there are some manifolds available for lower hp goals if you would like I can source out some pics for you.
The car should be able to run a high 8 or at least a low 9'er on the quarter mile from what we have seen from other builds.
The tuner we are runing is Dynodrome and the mechanic is Boutris Service Performance I am very pleased with both of them.

Will be updating the build today with some progress on the transmission.

Hope your family is healthy and safe now!
Thanks, my family is slowly recovering. I'll be heading back to my naval base next week/weekend. From what I have seen from other builds yours has the makings of a 9 second car, however you've transmission woes might keep you from braking into the 8's, what slicks will you be running MTs or will you be using a street DOT radial? I'm interested in the which record your gunning for. In regards to the IM, I've looked at HEP, HPA and a CNC manifold made in Taiwan.
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However for the amount of money the CNC IM would run me, the more cost effective IM would be HPA. There are multiple customers that have great experience with their K04 +DP + IM setup.

There's little feedback regarding the HEP IM, probably due to its hefty price tag.

At the end of the day, I'm building an Autocross car that I can track every once in a while, and since the low end is really important for me the stock IM with the RFD will most likely meet all of my demands.

Looking forward to seeing your posts.

Best
 
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