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TT Mk1 Roadster Roof Plastic Drain Skirt repair

9.9K views 22 replies 9 participants last post by  silverbug  
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Plastic Drain Skirt - How I repaired mine
Sorry some of the photos were taken when I had completed the job and realised I could help others by posting the procedure (so in some photos you can see the rivets after the repair

Any questions please ask, as I am sure I have made this far simpler than it was

1 Open the roof approx 10inch from the windscreen this drops the rear of the roof showing the rear trim panel held in place by 6 Torx bolts, 8 (i think) gray plastic studs these run in horizontal plain going through the trim into the body work.
remove bolts and plastic studs.jpg


2 Remove the 6 (i think) black plastic studs these run vertically round the lip of the trim from the curve section towards the doors
trim back 3.jpg

trim back 4.jpg


3 From inside the car remove the rubber strip from the metal channel Pull the rubber strip/drain skirt upwards out of the metal channel, at the base of the hood, this allows the drain skirt to fall free
plastic into here.jpg


4 From inside the car remove the drain skirt
5 From outside the car remove the rear trim panel
6 Clean all traces of the original tape, I use a craft knife held at 90degrees to the surface, then use something like Panel wipe (used in preparing paint work to make sure there is no traces of glue left) from both the rear trim panel and the drain skirt.
7 I used double side 3M body tape applied to the rear trim panel, then making sure the drain skirt is the correct way round apply this to the tape
8 I then used 5mm by 12mm wide based rivets along with 5.5 internal diameter by 18mm washers, I have found these help to reinforce the taped joint (I intend for it to last). Using a 5.5mm HSS drill, applying steady pressure drill through the rear trim panel and the drain skirt. Slow and steady is best when drilling to avoid the drain skirt/trim and or tape twisting up, I have found it best to use a new drill bit each time I have completed this repair to make sure you get a nice hole.
9 Drill one hole at a time, then feed the rivet through from the drain skirt (what would be from inside the car) through the rear trim panel, place a washer on the rivet stud then use the rivet tool to snap the rivet into place.
rivet 1.jpg

10 I completed this approximately every 10cm all the way along the join between the rear trim panel and the drain skirt.
rivet 2.jpg


When completed and viewed from the end the drain skirt/plastic trim should look like this:

channel.jpg

11 From inside the car feed the rear trim panel back in to position
12 From outside the car replace the Torx bolts through the rear trim panel by hand, so the rear trim panel can still be moved to help align the holes for the gray and black plastic studs can be installed
13 When all the gray and black plastic studs are in place finally tighten the Torx bolts (sorry I don't have a torque setting) I used the nominal engineering torque, for the 6mm torx bolts 8Nm for the 8mm torx bolts 15Nm
14 Inside the car install the rubber into the metal channel
plastic into here.jpg

plastic back 3.jpg

15 Then close the hood
16 Sit down and relax
 

Attachments

#3 ·
BadNun said:
Well explained and good information.

10
Thanks - after all there are so many water leak problems and after hunting around it seems the operation of the drain skirt is over looked and people look to deep when it could be a simple repair (all be it taking a good 2 to 3 hours)
 
#4 ·
Great post - thanks.

I did half this job - undid all of the hard plastic fittings, moved it forward enough to tape the inner side to the skirt, but I didn't remove the skirt from the hood as I didn't know you could! I thought you had to take the hood off to get them both out!

I think I'll do it all again :D
 
#5 ·
orangecurry said:
Great post - thanks.

I did half this job - undid all of the hard plastic fittings, moved it forward enough to tape the inner side to the skirt, but I didn't remove the skirt from the hood as I didn't know you could! I thought you had to take the hood off to get them both out!

I think I'll do it all again :D
Take your time, make sure there is going to be NO rain on the day you do it, take your time, I found it easier the second or third one I did LOL
 
#8 ·
orangecurry said:
Just to be clear - how does the skirt fit to the hood?

I mean which orientation?

Looking at your photo - to detach, do you push the skirt rubber edge *up* from the hood? Does that make sense?
Yes it does, I have edited my post to include this, thanks for the spot.

I used the 3M body tape (sticks like the preferable sh1t) on the first drain skirt repair I did but within a few weeks it came away in sections (maybe I had not cleaned it enough not sure) re did the repair backing it up with the rivets and no further problem.
It is worth noting the original drain skirt to trim appears to be done using some form of textile tape and sowing it together, this actually gave me the idea to use the 3M tape and double up with rivets (I don't have an industrial sowing machine :lol: ) but do have a well stocked garage :lol: when drilling through slow and steady is best to avoid twisting the skirt/trim or tape with a nice new drill bit is best
Since using the rivets I have not had any further problems
 
#9 ·
Well done on a comprehensive and informative thread :p .
I'm completely ignorant on the structure of that part of the hood but that all looks very do-able and I'm sure will help many others in the future .
Thanks for taking the time.
 
#10 ·
silverbug said:
Well done on a comprehensive and informative thread :p .
I'm completely ignorant on the structure of that part of the hood but that all looks very do-able and I'm sure will help many others in the future .
Thanks for taking the time.
No problem glad to help others out

Could this be made a Sticky? (or what ever required so it does just disappear) Or added to the Knowledge base?

Thanks to all
 
#12 ·
Plastic Drain Skirt - How I repaired mine
Sorry some of the photos were taken when I had completed the job and realised I could help others by posting the procedure (so in some photos you can see the rivets after the repair

Any questions please ask, as I am sure I have made this far simpler than it was

1 Open the roof approx 10inch from the windscreen this drops the rear of the roof showing the rear trim panel held in place by 6 Torx bolts, 8 (i think) gray plastic studs these run in horizontal plain going through the trim into the body work.
View attachment 446801

2 Remove the 6 (i think) black plastic studs these run vertically round the lip of the trim from the curve section towards the doors
View attachment 446813
View attachment 446815

3 From inside the car remove the rubber strip from the metal channel Pull the rubber strip/drain skirt upwards out of the metal channel, at the base of the hood, this allows the drain skirt to fall free
View attachment 446803

4 From inside the car remove the drain skirt
5 From outside the car remove the rear trim panel
6 Clean all traces of the original tape, I use a craft knife held at 90degrees to the surface, then use something like Panel wipe (used in preparing paint work to make sure there is no traces of glue left) from both the rear trim panel and the drain skirt.
7 I used double side 3M body tape applied to the rear trim panel, then making sure the drain skirt is the correct way round apply this to the tape
8 I then used 5mm by 12mm wide based rivets along with 5.5 internal diameter by 18mm washers, I have found these help to reinforce the taped joint (I intend for it to last). Using a 5.5mm HSS drill, applying steady pressure drill through the rear trim panel and the drain skirt. Slow and steady is best when drilling to avoid the drain skirt/trim and or tape twisting up, I have found it best to use a new drill bit each time I have completed this repair to make sure you get a nice hole.
9 Drill one hole at a time, then feed the rivet through from the drain skirt (what would be from inside the car) through the rear trim panel, place a washer on the rivet stud then use the rivet tool to snap the rivet into place.
View attachment 446805
10 I completed this approximately every 10cm all the way along the join between the rear trim panel and the drain skirt.
View attachment 446807

When completed and viewed from the end the drain skirt/plastic trim should look like this:

View attachment 446811
11 From inside the car feed the rear trim panel back in to position
12 From outside the car replace the Torx bolts through the rear trim panel by hand, so the rear trim panel can still be moved to help align the holes for the gray and black plastic studs can be installed
13 When all the gray and black plastic studs are in place finally tighten the Torx bolts (sorry I don't have a torque setting) I used the nominal engineering torque, for the 6mm torx bolts 8Nm for the 8mm torx bolts 15Nm
14 Inside the car install the rubber into the metal channel
View attachment 446803
View attachment 446809
15 Then close the hood
16 Sit down and relax
Hi - this looks a great job done , I plan to do mine . Can you just confirm that the whole section comes out of the car ready for the repair , riveting etc . Thank You
 
#13 ·
I can't thank you enough for completing this post , all removed today without any problems apart from the panel clips being a bit awkward to get out especially the low one nearest to the drip trays . Makes the repair so much easier with the skirt and rear panel removed . I had tried in the past doing a repair without removal and it proved very difficult and not up to standard . Absolutely chuffed to have seen your repair post . Thank You !!!!!
 
#14 ·
I’ve been reading the above how-to just in case I need to do this on my own roadster (touch wood so far there’s been no need) but am wondering one thing.
Am I right in assuming that this drain skirt is clipped into a metal channel underneath the lower surface of the soft-top frame on one edge and fixed to the car by Torx screws etc at the other?
 
#22 ·
Well several years after reading this excellent thread and after my first TT drive of 2024 😎 I looked down at my folded hood to see that my drain hood skirt has started to fail 😞, the factory-applied double-sided tape having lost tack and has begun to come undone at certain points along the rear plastic panel…
As soon as I get the items required to facilitate a repair I shall get stuck in 🤓.
 
#23 ·
Having done this job today I thought that I’d add my thoughts on it…….
I found it to be by far, the worst job that I have done on my TT 😂.
This is the sight that greeted me recently when lowering the roof for the first time after its 7 month slumber……
Image




I followed all the steps in this excellent thread to repair mine but I did deviate slightly:
Black rivets were used.
The nastiest part was getting the rear trim piece out!
Without a set of trim panel removal tools I doubt that I would have managed it, those fir tree profile plastic plugs are swines to remove 😡.
The smaller grey ones are definitely the worst!
Once all the plugs were removed I battled for ages to get the damned trim piece out.
Eventually I found that even though the drain skirt was still attached to the trim piece along most of its length the only way to get the bits out was to go inside the car and with my fingers separate the skirt from the trim piece and remove the drain skirt from the inside….
Even though the trim piece was now free, it took me about 30 mins and lots of swearing to get it to come free.
After failing dismally with 3M tape to hold the drain skirt to the trim (and yes I did use Isopropyl alcohol to clean all surfaces first) I tried Evostick contact adhesive (which worked perfectly) to keep everything together prior to drilling and rivetting.
Replacing the now-repaired drain skirt was surprisingly easy, and yes you do replace the assembly from INSIDE the car.
Now that it is done I‘m very relieved that another roadster weak spot has been addressed, I really wouldn’t want to do another.…. 😞.
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