How to fit EBC discs and pads on the front...

Chip_iTT · May 22, 2005

A selection of photo's to show how easy it is (as long as you can get the f****** wheels off)...

First make sure you have everything you need: pads, discs, brakedust spray, caliper paint and a 1/2" brush, copper grease, a stiff brush, lots of kitchen towel, an 18mm socket, a 7mm allen key, crosshead screwdriver, flat blade screwdriver, big hammer and several chunks of wood, brake bleed tube, bottle and bleed spanner, and some latex gloves are useful

Now get the wheels off the ground.... note the use of a bit of 4 x 2 to make the ramp more gentle to avoid fouling the spoiler... this gets the car high enough to get the jack and stands under... and don't forget to chock the rears

Next remove the wheels and spray liberally with brakedust remover spray (several times and wipe off between... the stiff brush is useful too)

Remove the spring, noting how it is seated

remove the guidecaps and then the guides with the 7mm allen key

lift the caliper away, removing the old pad, and tie it out of the way to the suspension. Be careful not to twist or kink the brake cable (on the LH side you'll need to unplug the brake wear sense cable)

Now is a good time to push the piston back so you'll have room to put the new pads on (sorry no pic of this). To push the piston back, put the brake bleed tube on the bleed nipple and undo 1 turn then with a chunk of wood press the piston back in as far as you can (about 1/4" showing) and then lock off the bleed nipple.. do this BEFORE you paint the caliper as brake fluid and fresh paint don't get on too well...

Now remove the carrier using the 18mm socket

Here is a comparison of old and new pads.... these pads were on their last legs

Now remove the disc...undo the screw, which needs lots of WD40, and possibly an impact driver (tip: try doing the screw up first while tapping the end of the screwdriver with the hammer...)

Replacement is the reverse of the above...

Some other tips:

You will probably need 3 coats of paint on the calipers and carriers... and then touch it up after its back on the car. Don't paint the bits where the 'ears' of the pads locate or you'll only have problems fitting them later.

The retaining spring is a bugger to get back on without scratching the paint... with the new pads in its much tighter than with the worn ones... a pair of pliers helps to pull it into position...locate the ends in the holes first then manipulate it...you're less likely to scratch the paint this way (but it'll need a touch up after anyway)

If the wheels and/or discs are 'stuck' try bashing them from behind with a hammer through a lump of wood.... don't use the hammer direct (unless its a rubber headed mallet)

Before fitting the pads, copper grease the back of the pads and the edges of the runners, also clean the guide pins with a light emery rub and grease them too. Copper grease on the back of your alloy wheel where it mates with the disc and on the wheel bolts makes it easier next time...

Whan all is done, stand back and admire...

Wak · May 22, 2005

DAM DAM DAM.... you know what I wanted from you and forgot completely....

When the disc is off a picture of behind the hub showing the ABS ring!

to see how much extra clearence there is for bolts.

Dont suppose you took a pic or two?? :?

nice job on the fronts, are you doing the rears as well any time soon?

[smiley=thumbsup.gif]

Love_iTT · May 22, 2005

http://www.********.co.uk/gallery/loveitt/safety.jpg

Chip_iTT said:
. . .Copper grease on the back of your alloy wheel where it mates with the disc and on the wheel bolts makes it easier next time...

I seem to remember a thread a while back where the outcome was NOT to put copper grease on the threads of wheel bolts as this makes the torque reading inaccurate, I must admit that I did put copper grease on my wheel bolts but since then I haven't and I always take them off and put them on with a torque wrench and never have any problems with them binding.

Just my two penny worth.

Graham

Chip_iTT · May 22, 2005

Ok Graham I know it doesn't look very secure but I can assure you it is...

As to the copper grease... all the tyre places round here seem to do it...

Wak:

This help?

KenTT · May 22, 2005

Nice write up, good timing to as I plan to do mine next job, Iâ€™m doing the rubber bushes on the front wishbones at the moment.

What EBC pads did you go for, are they red stuff non-ceramic :?:

Chip_iTT · May 22, 2005

those are the DP31330C red stuff ceramic...

KenTT · May 22, 2005

Love_iTT said:
I seem to remember a thread a while back where the outcome was NOT to put copper grease on the threads of wheel bolts as this makes the torque reading inaccurate, I must admit that I did put copper grease on my wheel bolts but since then I haven't and I always take them off and put them on with a torque wrench and never have any problems with them binding.

Just my two penny worth.

Graham

The back of my wheels have copper slip on them and the wheel bolts, and it has been Audi dealer maintained in the past so I would assume it is the norm to use it.

BTW Chip_iTT love those axle stands, where can I buy some like that

Chip_iTT · May 23, 2005

KenTT said:
BTW Chip_iTT love those axle stands, where can I buy some like that

I made those in metalwork class some 30y ago... every car I have ever owned and few others have been up on those stands at one time or another... they are rather heavy but do the job

Love_iTT · May 23, 2005

OK, it seems like I'm wrong, but I'm still not putting Copper grease on my wheel bolts although I do put a very light film on the back of the wheel.

Each to their own I guess.

Graham

clarko · May 23, 2005

nice job chip_itt !
think you'll agree with me when i say they make such a difference to the car! I only had time to do 2 coats of Japlac on the rear - need to touch up this weekend!

J

Kell · May 23, 2005

It doesn't say how you get the car off the ramps and onto the axle stands though. :wink:

Chip_iTT · May 23, 2005

oh that was easy...with my superhuman strength I held it up while stretching underneath with my elastic arm to place the stand...

No, the ramp is only to get it high enough the get the trolley jack under, then lift, place stand, remove ramp.... getting it down is lift, place ramp, remove stand, drop it, drive off....

ronin · May 23, 2005

how much for the discs and pads Irvine ?

ta

Chip_iTT · May 23, 2005

Well I got a great deal on eBay so Â£140 all in (but it was a one off), which is somewhere between Â£90 and Â£140 off what I've seen them advertised elsewhere. Best price I saw for all 4 wheels is Â£359 on eBay, and I've been quoted Â£179 for the rears only...

standard prices I got before:

Amd 395-98+VAT = Â£465.27 + p&p

Brakes4U 356.11+VAT postage free (10% discount) = 418.44

EBCBrakes Direct 356.11+VAT postage free (10% discount) = 418.44

GrahamGoode 356.11+VAT + 10.75 postage (10% discount) = 429.19

preformance.rallynuts 346.22 + VAT + 7.69 postage (12.5% intro discount) = 414.51

moonscale · May 24, 2005

if you get in touch with brakes4u they will beat any price..i know ive done it.......

ratty · May 24, 2005

Irvine

Did you jack the car off the ramps using the rubber jacking points (as showing at the top of your photo) ?

I want to lift mine but am uneasy about this after hearing of problems lifting here with trolley jacks.

Chip_iTT · May 24, 2005

yes, but what you can't see in the photo is the top block of wood on the trolley jack is a 4 x 4 x 2 piece with a recess to fit the rubber pad diameter and not quite as deep as the pad (so the weight is primarily on the pad but as it compresses the wood eventually butts up to the underside of the floor... and a recess to fit the trolley jack head - well there is now, the jack made its own holes to fit the teeth on the head... this is why the pads were introduced. On early TTs there were no pads just plastic bungs in the floor panel but when people jacked the car up with a trolley jack it damaged the underseal resulting in floor corrosion. However simple trolley jacks have a narrow head (mine's about 1.5" across), which punch through the pads as reported elsewhere, whereas a professional one has a rubber pad about 3-4" across (I went to the tyre shop and measured one) but can't find a source to fit my jack (at least not in the UK) so I made one from wood...

Dicky2 · Nov 4, 2006

I've purchased a set of Eibach ( 30 mm ) lowering springs. ( Back & Front ) Is there a " How to " thread any-where or has any-one fitted them recently with pics ? Can't find anything on Wak's web site.

Cheers....

Davy...

jet:) · Feb 12, 2007

Great How-To the pics are really handy
Did you give the new pads any sanding to wear in or is it needed 8)

quattronics · Feb 12, 2007

Chip_iTT said:
To push the piston back, put the brake bleed tube on the bleed nipple and undo 1 turn then with a chunk of wood press the piston back in as far as you can (about 1/4" showing) and then lock off the bleed nipple..

NO NO NO NO NO NO :evil:

This is the incorrect way to push the pistons back into the caliper, all you are doing is allowing air to enter the braking system and reduce braking efficency.
The proper way to push the pistons back into the caliper is

Open the bonnet, locate the reservoir on top of the brake master cylinder.
Remove the cap (its yellow)
Pay attention to the fluid level and carefully push the piston into the caliper, you will notice the fluid rise in the reservoir. Once you have pushed back all the pistons on all the calipers you are working on you will find you may have to remove some fluid from the reservoir.
Once the car is back down onto the floor press the brake pedal a number of times to reseat the pistons.

TTCool · Feb 17, 2009

The best way to push the pistons back into the calliper, along with the previous instruction from quattronics, is by using a Paddle Disc Brake Piston Spreader, available from Machine Mart or similar.

Joe

TTCool · Feb 17, 2009

Like so...
http://www.avenue35.co.uk/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=22888

Joe

TTCool · Feb 17, 2009

PS This one is cheaper, Sealey (good make) the AK 711
http://www.uktools.com/product_info.php ... ts_id=5314

Joe

kevlo · Oct 1, 2009

is there anyway to get the pics back up?

sporty1200 · Oct 25, 2010

Just replaced my front pads. Thanks ChipTT, this post was hugely helpfull..

paul_cymru · Feb 23, 2012

Some torque settings I've pulled from other posts:

Wheel bolts 120Nm/90ftlbs.
Guide pins* (renew) 28Nm/21ftlbs.
Carrier bolts 125Nm/92ftlbs (if reusing the bolt clean the ribs under the head).

* (UPDATE) Dropped into Audi for some guide pins, approx £14 per pin, and you need 4 for the front

The caliper carrier bolts were under a quid each.

How to fit EBC discs and pads on the front...

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