So apart it came and I checked the head for straightness, it was milled down. The cooling fans weren't working as they should, I swapped them out for a new pair as it had overheated as well.

Put it all back together and it ran ok for a brief time period:

I had picked up an euro RS3 steering wheel instead of my stock TT wheel. It was a bit thicker and had a red centre line which I thought it was cool:

I also added an oil cooler, albeit small it made quiet a difference in oil temps. I was able to track it pretty hard and keep the oil temps down.

 

The oil drain for the turbo was plumbed back through the oil pan drain which I wasn't a huge fan of. It also made the oil changes a big pain. So I had a local friend Issam Abed who was selling these oil pans that were aluminum with baffling and alternate oil drain provisions.

At the same time I looked at my bearings and engine while the oil pan was off. The engine at this point has 160,000kms. It looks super clean and no issues were found.

I added a surge tank and switch to e85 to gain a bit of power. I had a e85 tune which 034 Motorsports made close to 600whp with on a slightly larger turbo. I added some gauges in the car to closely monitor some key metrics.

I really liked this setup, I found it was nice and clean. AFR gauge, Boost and ethanol content sensor.

Here is a picture of the surge tank: 034 Surge tank 044 pump. The pump was pretty loud and it was run at 100% duty at all times.

 

My axles were clicking fairly badly so I decided to grab some Raxles replacement. They were great, these are the axles that are in the car to this day.

Important thing to note that these are OEM like replacements but they can handle a lot of power.

 

So I wanted to dyno the car and scheduled a dyno session. Here I would run 15psi on E85 on a PTE 6262.

The car was loaded pretty heavily and I was able to make a couple passes but this essentially fried my clutch. Here is the best I was able to do that day:

I was dissapointed with the dyno figures as I thought it would easily hit over 500whp but it is was it is.

The clutch I did turn up the car to 20psi on E85 but the clutch was slipping badly at this point. I didn't realize but I had a Stage 3 Bully clutch which was rated to 300hp. When I called for an upgrade they were surprised it held on for so long. They didn't have an upgrade for me at the time. At this time the engine started leaking coolant between the block and the head , like the head gasket wasn't sealing but we had just replaced the head gasket and skimmed the head.

Time to build the engine as there was quite a bit of blow by as well. So out came the engine:

The wife though it would be a good picture moment..ha.

 

To sum up the engine build, I got in contact with Bill Schimmel who is renowned VR6 in the US. I selected the following parts:

• Mahle 84.5mm Pistons
• Pauter HD rods with ARP 625+
• ARP 2000 headstuds, mains
• Calico Coated Bearings
• Ferrea Valves / Springs Retainers
• Schrick 268/264 Cams.

I didn't want any clutch problems anymore so I went with a Sachs RCS-200 rated to 1200nm.

I assembled the rest pretty much unchanged from before:

I did add a wavetrac and stainless steel forks to the transmission. I did it myself it was pretty easy at this point I'm doing all the work in my garage.

 

The prop shaft was leaking grease in the centre joint. I had the pressed joint so they wanted 2k+ for a new one. I saw they make a version with a universal joint. Bought one from the junked, put new flex disc on them and replaced the universal joint. So if there is anything wrong with the driveshaft I can service it instead of paying 2k+ for a new one.

 

Initially on the stock ECU the new engine didn't run so well. It was way rich. Emailing 034 for tune updates, they never responded. The kit was discontinued and they didn't offer support for it anymore. United Motorports had never done a turbo 2008 Audi TT before so they couldn't help me out immediately.

I did find Syvecs that was a full standalone replacement ECU that would work as expected. I went ahead and ordered a S6 Plus. However during the order they had never done this car as well with a manual transmission . They needed can bus information, as they couldn't be certain it would be the same.

Reading up on CANbus I bought a can2usb device and learned how to capture drivetrain can data so I can send back to Syvecs.

And finally I had a plug and play Syvecs standalone for my car. The plan was to learn and self tune the car.

The kit was based off a MK5 R32 that Storm initially helped with the developement.

 

Using the PNP wiring and the base map I was able to drive the car and it was much better. I needed to finalize the tune so I brought it to a local dyno shop to get it refined. The 034 turbo manifold warped badly on the dyno to the point it was 1-2cm in difference in straightness from end to end. I was really never happy with the turbo setup so I decided to redo the turbo setup. Sell off as many parts form the 034 kit and build my own custom turbo kit.

 

I'll have to speed things up a bit or else I'll spend 2 weeks writing all the trials and tribulations.

I received a turbular divided turbo manifold from P-Motorsports.

EGT bungs to run invidual EGT sensors per cylinder.
Intake manifold from P-Motorsports as well.

EFR 9274 mount with twin 38mm Tial gates:

Final results:

 

Here is what the engine bay looks like today. I replaced all coolant hoses with AN lines, added Radium coolant tank, Radium catch can. All vacuum hoses are PTFE lines in -3an and -4an.
Wiring was redone as well in a mil spec loom. I spend a while on the harness but it was enjoyable to have a perfectly placed harness that is durable.

 

Here is what the engine bay looks like today. I replaced all coolant hoses with AN lines, added Radium coolant tank, Radium catch can. All vacuum hoses are PTFE lines in -3an and -4an.
Wiring was redone as well in a mil spec loom. I spend a while on the harness but it was enjoyable to have a perfectly placed harness that is durable.

View attachment 489266

View attachment 489267

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BEAST MODE BRO

 

Impressive work!
Love the custom manifolds

 

Very cool build...how much power you putting down now? I noticed 034 doesn't offer that kit anymore too--tried to check their website for it, but all links dead. Kind of sucks they didn't even reply to you about it afterwards either. Seems you found the weak links in it pretty quick though and moved on.

The cost of all this must have been quite a sum haha! That Syvecs alone...wow!

That thing must be a rocket ship though 😁 If the car still looks mostly the same, one heck of a sleeper too. The licence plate gives nothing away either--you could have added a "T" to it lol. If I ever see it around now though, I'll know!

On another note I had no idea there was a prop shaft variant with a serviceable centre-joint/carrier, that's good to know. That was from an Mk2/PQ35 car?

 

On another note I had no idea there was a prop shaft variant with a serviceable centre-joint/carrier, that's good to know. That was from an Mk2/PQ35 car?

Thanks for the kind words. The driveshaft was from an earlier model Mk2 TT. I think it was a 2.0litre car but they made them for the 3.2 as well. I asked the junkyard to send me a pic of it, they thought I was crazy or something and it had the serviceable joint.

 

Love this post! Thanks for taking the time writing it up. Many questions from me too

Unfortunately the car was unbalanced on power it would understeer heavily mid corner.

oh no! what do you mean by this? I'm guessing power delivery was not predictable or something?

euro RS3 steering wheel

This is nice! Would you have the part number? Also the part number for your wheels?

oil cooler, albeit small it made quiet a difference in oil temps. I was able to track it pretty hard and keep the oil temps down.

great placelement for the oil cooler - i always look at the massive gap behind the bumper thinking you can fit SO much in there LOL. What's the size of the oil cooler and the FMIC?

local friend Issam Abed who was selling these oil pans that were aluminum with bafflin

Wonder if Issaam makes these for the 3.6?

to grab some Raxles replacement. They were great, these are the axles that are in the car to this day.

Are these are lot heavier than stock?

• Mahle 84.5mm Pistons
• Pauter HD rods with ARP 625+
• ARP 2000 headstuds, mains
• Calico Coated Bearings
• Ferrea Valves / Springs Retainers
• Schrick 268/264 Cams.

Nice parts list! SOuunds like the engine's going to be able to handle everything you throw at it now.

stainless steel forks to the transmission

I thought the Mk2 gearboxes came with stainless steel forks to start off with?

turbular divided turbo manifold from P-Motorsports.

Wow - so with the single EGTs in each runner the Syvecs take that all into account to trim/add fuel? Does it use it's own special EGT's or the OEM ones?

EFR 9274 mount with twin 38mm Tial gates:

Holy moly that is HUGE! What are you goals with this setup?

Wiring was redone as well in a mil spec loom. I spend a while on the harness but it was enjoyable to have a perfectly placed harness that is durable.

Wouuld you have any more info on this loom? Is it custom made or something off the shelf?

Look forward to seeing your next dyno run with all of the mega upgrades (as if the first upgrade wasn't mega enough! LOL)

 

Wonder if Issaam makes these for the 3.6?

I can answer this one at least, I think. Pretty sure this is the guy behind iAbed:

iABED Industries

iabedindustries.com

Can probably email and ask. I think the baffled pan he makes for the EA888 2.0Ts is around $600 USD as a point of reference.

 

Here are some better shots of the engine.

On the engine stand, running the IaBED oil filter adapter, I have a pressure/temp sensor there as well. The OEM one I've long deleted.

AN20 converted coolant lines.

Powder coated the valve cover, I think thats the best bang for your buck. Looks much better now.

 

Picked up some vibratechnic engine mounts. I purchased the competition ones and they are fantastic, clearly the best on the market.

On to the transmission, I was running stock gears but after this turbo upgrade I knew I needed more. So I decide to order a gears from Don Octane and when with a 1-6 Synchro forged gears.

Here are my stock gears out of the transmission:

Here are the forged ones:

There is now a pilot bearing which helps with high powered cars. I just bought the stock pilot bearing and installed it before I put my tranny back in.

Here is the difference in gear size:

Much beefier. Overall very much like stock gearing, there is quite of gear whine but nothing crazy. It does sound like a straight cut box in lower gears, it gets a touch quieter at higher gear / rpm.

 

Here is where it gets interesting, I wanted to monitor my car much better than the three little gauges I had in my car so I decided to pick up a dash from PLEX. I picked up a PLEX SDM550. This would enable GPS / Accelerometer data to be sent to the Syvecs which is very cool.

I had a hard time deciding how to mount it so I had a 3d printer and I designed an insert for it.

It fits perfect:

The screen looks washed out but it's hard to take a good pic of it since it has anti-glare coating so the sun doesn't wash it out but it doesn't really look great through a camera for some reason.

Here is an action shot with some car sounds.

I did fix the gas gauge it was just a configuration issue there, but I do have the pq35 dbc so things like my signal lights / high beams and things I care about are displayed on this dash like the OEM one. I have access to hundreds of OEM CAN parameters that I can display as well as Syvecs can data. It works very well.

 

This build, is one word: EPIC
Too many points to comment on, but fair play!
After being a big part of supercharging a mates MK4 R32 - I can appreciate the work involved in this

Thanks for sharing this within forum
Nice to see more builds that push away from the usual TT direction

Looking forward to all the updates!

 

Lets talk fueling. This car needs a lot of fuel to support the high loads, so I devised a surge tank located in the trunk. It's a Radium Single pump surge tank with an E5LM "Bugatti Veyron" pump. It's controller via a Torqbyte PM5 with a Torqbyte voltage booster. @ 24v it's capable of pushing 1200lph @ 80 PSI. The Torqbyte guys are local as well and were such a pleasure to deal with.

To deal with fuel pressure oscillations I installed a Radium FPR-D which includes a fuel pulse dampener.

You can see the flex fuel sensor which is now on the feed side with a Radium Flex-Fuel bypass kit. This removes any restriction with the flex fuel sensor. However, I'm only running -6an front to back and there is plenty of fuel.

I did pick up a new fuel pump for the in tank setup. A Brushless DW440. It's so compact:

The fuel basket is a pain point for everyone upgrading their fuel pumps. So I went ahead and designed an OEM+ billet fuel basket to accept aftermarket pumps:

Check valve is used to keep the fuel in the basket when it's full but open when it's empty. I've noticed that it leaves a bit more fuel in the tank compared to OEM when completely dry maybe a couple litres but I'd never run it that dry. It accepts the top portion and the level sensor bracket as it if was OEM. Here is the basket fully assembled.

 

The fuel basket is a pain point for everyone upgrading their fuel pumps. So I went ahead and designed an OEM+ billet fuel basket to accept aftermarket pumps:

View attachment 489312

That's pretty awesome right there but I'm guessing you're not exactly just "a guy in a home garage"--you must be an engineer of some sort, by trade? Are you gonna be producing/selling those?

 

That fuel basket looks epic.. You should offer that to others as well!!

 

Just trying to catch up and keep this up to date. I hit the dyno last year on 93 octane and here is the dyno sheet:

To be honest I was a bit disappointed. But this is pump gas so I figure with some e85 I'd get some much better numbers. I'll wait till next year to do so.

In the mean time, I needed to rebuild the rear end. I used to winter drive this car so the rear control arms and subframe were super rusty.

I ordered new control arms, bushing and a rear subframe from Verkline.

 

The floor underneath what showing some surface rust so I decided to use POR15 to seal it all up once I cleaned up the whole rear end.

d

Man that stuff stinks and pretty much is permanent once it dries. I'll feel much better with this coating and ensuring any debris will open up any raw metal for it to rust. It wasn't a 100% perfect job but it wasn't too bad either.

Meaning I fully serviced my haldex which included complete dissasembly.

Split the case open removed rear diff, everything looked good there:

Lots of junk in the Haldex fluid reservoir, the filter and pump screen was pretty clean though:

Took our the Haldex clutches and measured them. Everything looks great for a 180,000km car:

 

All back together. I decide to get poly bushing and stay away from anything spherical as this is a "street car" and I'm most likely not going to race it.

 

no detail is being missed!!! loving the continueing progress - do you have any upgrades in mind for the haldex / rear diff?

 

Well an LSD would be great but I think they are insanely prices, I think it's a lot of work but not worth it for my car at this point. I may revisit this at a later date.

I did install a Haldex Controller from VanDerVeer Engineering. The rear is actually great, however during high power / high speeds the stock programming uncouples the rear which causes a ton of wheel slip in the front. I recently got that all sorted.

 

HPA Brakes for all 4 Corners. I realized with my current brakes the car doesn't stop quite as well as it used to, since I have much more power:

Overall the brakes feel really good. I need to adjust the parking brake a bit since it's a drum now it doesn't seem to bite as well as the old cable brake. Worthwhile upgrade and saves me some weight even though I'm still rocking the stock speedlines.

 

With the availability of E85 locally I want to completely send the car with it cranked up. I needed to know the turbo shaft speed as the EFR's have a habit of grenading if you overspin them. So, a turbo speed sensor was installed:

It was a pretty easy job, it's mostly pre-drilled and you just need to finish it with a 1/4 drill bit. Ensure to clean up any sharp edges. Max shaft speed is 125k for this EFR9274.