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Discussion starter · #21 ·
I should have Googled it first :p .
Just found a video explaining Golf master cylinder removal which shows it , around the 2 mins 50 secs mark..... :)

 
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Discussion starter · #23 ·
Thanks DC240S.
Once you know how, that cradle thing does come apart quite easily.... that video was so useful.
New sensors installed but alas my crows foot wrench won't fit in there so I had to guesstimate how tight to do them up.
I actually chickened-out and chose to leave the reservoir in place.
Just putting things back together now and then to bleed everything.....
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
All finished and I think successful 8) .
Tested the new sensors with VCDS and the pressure readings from both new sensors are near identical :p .
Time will tell if it has really fixed my ESP light problem but the omens are good that it has :) .
Thanks to everybody who's helped me on this thread and especially DC240S!
:p
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
Thought I'd post an update in case anyone else has to do this job in the future .
All totally DIY-able with only basic tools.
TBH having done it , I don't really get the "pig of a job" label :? .
The trickiest part of the whole job for me was screwing in the new sensors ( taking great care not to cross-thread them!) but nothing was really difficult at all?
It took me an entire working day to do (8.30am -5pm) but that included lots of down-time when I couldn't figure out how to remove the fuel pipe assmbly/cover and general faffing around on my part :p .
I reckon I could do it again in 3-4 hrs or less .
Have done almost 300 miles in the car now since doing the job and no ESP lights have come on, just did another VCDS scan and there's still no fault code in the ABS system so I'm very confident that it is fixed.
I wouldn't have been able to do it without DC240S's excellent guide but I did deviate slightly ....
Even though I did buy the master cylinder bung seals to allow removal of the master cylinder reservoir because DC240S had issues with pulling off the clutch line accidentally I decided in the end to leave the reservoir in place .
I used a large syringe to remove as much brake fluid as possible from the reservoir and once the coolant tank had been removed it created a lot more space to work in .
The PAS fluid reservoir was just moved out of the way with a few cable ties , nothing needed to be disconnected .
Once the space around the master cylinder had been created it was simply a case of undoing the brake pressure sensors (easy to undo as they really are not tight) and then allowing the brake fluid remaining to drip out .
I stuffed the best part of 2 x toilet rolls down underneath the master cylinder and this mass soaked up all the remaining fluid ( I wasn't in any rush) and once there were no drips I replaced both sensors .
I had purchased a crows foot spanner (27mm) to enable me to torque up the new sensors but with reservoir in place there was no way I could get it in there , I'm not 100% sure even with reservoir removed the crows foot spanner would have fitted ...
So I had to estimate the 10lbs/ft tightening torque using a ring spanner, it's not a high figure by any means.
Once the sensors were tightened up and the electrical plugs re-connected it was a simple case of just putting everything back together and bleeding the master cylinder , clutch and front calipers.
Using a pressure bleeder this was done very easily and I was rewarded with a nice clutch pedal and firm brake pedal at the first test drive out of the garage .
I'd definitely do this job again and wouldn't think twice about recommending others to do it themselves , the fact that I saved a few hundred ÂŁ is an even greater bonus :p .
 
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My local VCDS expert confirms that ESP light on because one of the brake pressure sensors has failed. I plan to replace both with new Audi items (ÂŁ120 each!). I have cleared all the pipes etc which gives me access to the sensors but removing is a challenge. I reckon I need a 28mm ratchet spanner which has a canted end in order to gain access. Does anyone know if this is a good solution? If so then I'll need to ask my local garage if they can lend me one. Thanks Bob Sharp.
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
Removal of the old sensors when I did the job was easy , they really are not installed very tight….
Can't remember now exactly what tool I used , whether it was a ring or open-ended wrench , but it was one of the two.
I mentioned 27mm as being the size of the sensor, am sure that is correct…..?
 
Lomondbob72 said:
I reckon I need a 28mm ratchet spanner which has a canted end in order to gain access
That's how I did it; it's a twat of a job, that I did 3 times because I was stupid enough to ignore my own advice and not fit a genuine Audi sensor. When/if you use VCDS to recalibrate/bleed, remember that it can take 2-3 attempts to get it to work perfectly, particularly if you've changed the fluid (which you should really be doing) and wrestled with the cylinder and introduced air into the system.
 
Hi Dc reading up on the brake servo sensor replacement and was looking for advice on how to remove the brake fluid reservoir retaining screw. Thanks AJ
As I recall it's a small bolt. It makes the task easier ensuring you have cleared as much access as possible.

Plug any chassis holes and have a cloth underneath to catch it - a magnet is useful too.
 
As I recall it's a small bolt. It makes the task easier ensuring you have cleared as much access as possible.

Plug any chassis holes and have a cloth underneath to catch it - a magnet is useful too.
hi DC240S

thank you so much for posting, I have the bam 225 in my cupra R with the same problem, out of interest are you close to to MK, bucks at all? I think I could get the sensors in by myself but the cylinder bleed I’ve never done.

it would be nice to have someone look over my shoulder, I could pay you in beer??

rgds
mkrboy
 
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