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Audi TT Mk2 Used Car Checklist - Comments Appreciated

5.2K views 39 replies 11 participants last post by  JPE61  
#1 ·
I've added this list to the FAQ - The Ultimate Audi TT Mk2 (8J) Buyers Guide to help anyone who is considering buying their first used Mk2 TT.

I know there are tons of pre-purchase check lists out there, but I wanted to create this for someone who is totally unfamiliar with what to look for when considering the Mk2 TT and provide them with a check list they can take with them.

Please note this is only intended as a general visual inspection which any potential buyer could go through when looking over a Mk2 for the first time. It is not intended as a full-on mechanical inspection. However, if I've missed anything that's specific to the Mk2 which you feel should be included or helpful to someone going over their first Mk2 Coupe or Roadster, please let me know so I can add it to the list.


As suggested, I have noted Generic topics vs. Mk2 specific topics

Exterior Walkaround -
• Windshield is free of cracks or serious stone chips.
• Body panel colors match, panels line up.
• No "waves" in the metal or paintwork indicating possible damage and repair.
• Fresh paint job may conceal rust or recent crash damage.
• Trunk, hood and door seams are even and correctly aligned.
• Headlights and tail lights align properly with body panels.
• Driver and Passenger wing mirrors are not damaged.
• Front grill is properly aligned with the front bumper and hood lines.
• Headlights, fog lights, tail lights have no cracks, chips or severe stone damage and free from signs of water ingress.
• Fuel filler surround and fuel door are not scratched or damaged. Fuel cap is present and secure.
• Door, trunk or hatch seals are all present and undamaged (e.g. no rips, tears, etc.)
• Hood, hatch and trunk (Roadster) are gas-strut assisted and should keep the hood, hatch or trunk open.
• Hood release is located on drivers side knee kick panel. It should open hood easily and without hesitation.
- Note: Use a gentle rotation of the handle when opening the hood. Don't yank on it.
• Check wheel arches for signs of rubbing indicating the vehicle may have been lowered or had wider wheels at some point.
• If present, front spoiler and rear diffuser is mounted correctly.
• If installed, all parking sensors are present and paint color matches.
• S-Line & TTS models:
  • Verify whether or not the vehicle is actually an S-Line or TTS.
  • S-line models will have badges on the front fenders, steering wheel trim and embossed on the drivers and passengers seats
  • TTS models will have the TTS logo in the grill, trunk, steering wheel trim, embossed on the drivers and passengers seats and Tachometer dial face.
• Quattro vehicles should have a badge in the front grill and on the trunk.

Wheels -
• Wheels are not deformed, cracked or badly scratched.
• Wheels match.
• Verify if wheels are OEM Audi (this can be done when the wheels are off during the mechanical inspection of the brakes and rotors)
• All lug nuts are present.
• All lug nut caps are present.
• Center wheel logo caps are present.
• If installed, the locking lug nut has matching lug nut key.
- The lug nut key should be in the trunk with the lug wrench and other tools. Be sure it fits all four locking lugs!
• Check for an excessive number of balancing weights on the wheels.

Tires -
• Tires are a reputable brand name; (e.g. Pirelli, Bridgestone, Michelin, etc.)
• Check the date on the tires. (How to determine age link here )
  • If 5yrs or older inspect carefully and use age as a bargaining tool.
  • If 10yrs or older consider tires worthless (regardless of remaining tread). Insist tires be replaced or car price reduced to cover replacement costs.
• All tires are the same make, model and size.
• Tires are free of cuts, blisters, splits, cracks or severe abrasion.
• Tire wear is generally even on all four tires.
• Tires are mounted correctly in the direction of rotation.
• Air pressure is correct.
• Tire tools are present in the trunk. (Note - The Audi Mk2 TT does not have an OEM spare tire or space saver wheel).

Brakes -
• Vehicle steers straight and does not pull one way or the other when brakes are applied.
• Parking brake engages and disengages freely.
• No grinding noise when applying brakes.
• No vibration or pulsation from the brake pedal when brakes are applied.
• Wheels to not lock when applying brakes (ABS).
• Rotors and calipers are not rusty.
- Some surface rust on the rotors is acceptable if the car has been sitting for an extended period of time especially in damp or wet environment. During the initial test drive, there may be some "grinding" sounds when the brakes area applied, but it should go away after the first few kilometers of the test drive.

Engine Bay -
• After pulling the interior release handle the secondary hood release catch is located under the center of the hood. Press it up to open the hood.
• There are two gas struts to assist with lifting the hood and they should keep the hood open.

Engine off:
• Engine should be free of fluid or oil leaks.
• Oil filler cap and neck should be clean.
• Remove oil cap and inspect for "mayonnaise".
• No odors of fuel, oil, transmission fluid, or coolant.
• Underside of hood is relatively clean and not sprayed with oil.
• Pull the dip stick and verify the oil level is correct and there are no signs of coolant "mayonnaise" in the oil.
• Hoses and wiring harnesses are in generally good shape, free of cracks or deformation.
• Factory air box and air filter are present.
- If a Ram-Air style intake system has been installed, question the seller about any additional tuning.
• Be a suspicious of a freshly cleaned engine bay as the seller may have cleaned it just to remove any signs of oil leaks.
• A mechanical inspection should reveal any leaks when the belly pan is removed and the engine/transmission are inspected from below.
• On TDI and TFSI engines you should remove the plastic engine cover to see what's going on underneath.
• On the 3.2 VR6 engine, look carefully at the sparkplug connectors and harness for any signs of damage or wear.
• Coolant reservoir bottle is located on your left as you face the engine. Verify level is correct. Coolant color is pink (G12).
• Washer fluid bottle cap (blue) is located on your right as you face the engine bay, just behind the gas strut at the edge of the fender.

Engine running at idle:
• The engine should start up right away without hesitation.
• No squeaks, rattles or unusual sounds with the engine running.
• Observe accessory belt and tensioner for vibration or excessive play.
• Rev the engine; it should not shake or vibrate excessively.
• Observe exhaust color - blue smoke indicates it's burning oil, black smoke indicates it's running rich.

Steering & Suspension -
• Vehicle does not drift to one side or the other when the steering wheel is released.
• Steering wheel is centered when driving straight.
• Steering is stable without shaking or vibration.
• No resistance felt in the steering wheel when turning.
• No clicking, clunking or grinding when turning.
• No excessive oil around shocks indicating a possible leak.
• Suspension bushings are not cracked or split.
• CV joint boots are not ripped, torn or damaged.
Note: The Mk2 TT does not have hydraulic pump/fluid as it's an electromechanical design.

Electrical -
• All gauges work; speedo, tach, oil temp, fuel gauge.
• Warning lights come on and go off when key is first turned in the ignition.
• All lights work; low beam, high beam, fogs, indicators, brakes, emergency flashers and reverse lights. Also check mirror indicator lights are functional.
• Wing mirrors work and if configured, they also fold.
• Check central mirror and if present, auto dim works and compass is functional.
• Map lights both work.
• If present, verify steering wheel controls work.
• If present, verify the paddle shifters work.
• HVAC controls work properly.
  • Test the heater and AC controls while driving.
  • Verify blower works at all speeds and the vent selection and defroster works correctly.
• Speakers work properly; no buzz, hum, crackle or unusual sounds.
• Verify that any accessory to the stereo system (e.g. Bluetooth, phone kit, etc.) works properly.
• Windshield washer jets work properly.
• Headlight washer jets work properly -
- These will only be present for Bi-Xenon headlights​
- Headlamp washers only activate every 5th windscreen wash and only when headlights are on.​
• Seat heaters are functional.
• Electric seats move freely in all directions. If present, verify the lumbar support also works properly.
• Driver's and passenger's windows go up and down freely without any hesitation, squealing or grinding noises.
• Drivers door lock works (Note - there is no door lock button on the passengers door.)
• Passengers door handle (interior and exterior) operates correctly.
• Passengers window button works correctly.
• Fuel release button works.
• Trunk release button works.
• Alarm system works including the two alarm setting buttons located on the edge of the driver's door.
• Hazard lights work.
• Ashtray light is illuminated and cigarette lighter works.
• Battery terminals are not corroded (Mk2 battery is in the trunk, right side).
• Stereo, Amplifier and CD-changer works properly.
- If present, the amplifier is located behind the left side trunk panel.
- Depending on the option package, the CD Changer or iPod connector is located in the glovebox.
• Vehicles with Sat-Nav RNS-E should have the Navi DVD inside the head unit. Open the front display and press the eject button to verify that it is present.
• Spoiler button works.
• MagRide button works (if present).
• TPMS button works (if present).
• Cycle through the DIS menu to see that all the pixels in the display are working.
• Both ignition key fobs are present. In North America a plastic valet key may also be included.
- If the vehicle only comes with one fob, the selling price should reflect that (est. replacement cost is ~$300.00 / ÂŁ230.00 for a second fob.
• If present, emergency jumper points are located in the engine bay, just to the right of the left shock tower.

Interior -

Cabin:

• Seats are not excessively worn and there are no cracks or splits in the material.
• Carpets are not excessively worn.
• OEM floor mats are present or available.
• Carpets are not wet or damp.
• Doors open and close freely.
• Seatbelts are not worn or frayed and retract properly.
• When opening the drivers door for the first time, listen carefully for the fuel pump to prime.
• Door locks - be sure to perform the following tests with BOTH fobs -
- Press the fob buttons and verify it can unlock and unlock the doors and hatch/trunk.
- Unlock and lock the driver's door with a physical key as dead battery will render your key fob useless.
• Glove box opens freely with no resistance when opening or closing. Verify that both key fobs can operate the lock.
• Vent bezels rotate freely. Note - the bezels only rotate 90° from the 12 o'clock to 3 o'clock position.
• Coupe rear seats fold forward. Verify the release works properly.
• Storage bins under the seats open and close easily (if present).
• Baby seat restraints (if present) are only available in the Coupe rear seats.
• Rear parcel shelf is present in the Coupe.
• Verify the supporting brackets for the parcel shelf are not damaged or broken and are installed correctly (no Non-OEM fasteners)

Trunk:
• Side, floor and rear panels are in good shape.
• Trunk light comes on.
• Cargo restraining points are present and functional; x4 in Coupe
• Cargo net; optional for Coupe

Below the Trunk floor:
• Verify all tools are present including the lug lock key, warning triangle and air compressor.
• Check battery condition (located on the right side)
• Look around the trunk floor for any signs of water ingress.

Frame & Chassis - (limited to what you can see looking under the vehicle)
• Chassis and suspension is not damaged, bent or cracked.
• No excessive rust or corrosion especially under the trunk area and around the rear suspension.
• Check for any signs of overspray indicating possible body work.
• Verify the wheel arch liners are properly secured.
• No dents or signs of damage to the underside of the rocker panel below the door sill.
• No serious damage to the lower front edge of the front bumper/spoiler from hitting speed bumps or driveway ramps.
• Look for any obvious signs of damage, scrapes, dents etc. under the vehicle.

Roadster -
• Convertible top fabric is in good condition without excessive signs or abrasion or wear.
• Rear glass does not show signs of separation from the top.
• Headliner is not damaged or stained.
• Check that the carpeting behind the seats is not wet or damp.
• Check the drivers and passengers storage bins and seat pockets for items that the owner may have left behind.
• Top operates smoothly with no hesitation or jerky motion when going up or down (This should be done with the engine running).
• Roof flaps operate correctly and lay flat when down.
• Windows drop slightly and then raise completely when the top is operated.
• Front latch motor cover is present.
• Wind blocker raises and lowers freely.
• Center console storage hatch opens freely and both key fobs can operate the locks.
• Emergency kit is present in upper half of the center console storage area.
• Emergency trunk release handle is located inside the upper section of the center storage console. Verify that it works properly.
• In the trunk, remove the air compressor and check that the emergency "key" is located underneath as it is required in the event you have to manually open or close the convertible top.
• Additional features to check if the Roadster storage package option is present:
  • Seat back tips forward (if release is present)
  • Storage bins located under the front edge of the seats are functional.
  • Seat back bins behind the seats are functional and latch properly.
  • Seat back storage pockets are in good condition.
  • Pass through cover is present (Note - This can be viewed from inside trunk and will be against the bulkhead)

Quattro -
• Rear wheels should engage on wet, icy or slick surfaces. To test it, park on wet grass, sand or gravel and step on the gas. The rear wheels should engage.
• During the mechanical inspection, verify the flex disks are not worn, cracked or split.
• Verify that the Haldex and Final drive are free from leaks.
• Check that the axle boots are not ripped, torn or damaged.
• Verify in the Service Records that the fluid in the Final Drive has been changed.
• Verify in the Service Records that the fluid and filters in the Haldex have been changed.

Test Drive -
• Look, listen, feel and smell how the car operates and handles. Refer to the comments in the above lists.
• Don't be overwhelmed with how the car performs, but be sure to pay attention to how it drives and handles.
• Operate all of the features and optional equipment to make sure everything works; (e.g. paddle shifters, windows, mirrors, HVAC, MagRide, vents, seats, stereo, steering wheel controls, parking assistance, etc.)
• While driving, gently pull the parking brake with the button depressed to see if the parking brake warning light comes on.
• With a manual transmission; check the travel distance of the pedal from the floor to engagement of the clutch.
• DSG and manual transmission; check for slippage on a small incline and make sure all gears shift smoothly without shudder or hesitation.
• There should be no warning lights or fault messages displayed on the DIS (Drivers Information Screen).
• When on the highway look in the rear view mirror to verify the spoiler has deployed.

Post Test Drive -
• Before shutting off the engine, open the hood again and inspect the engine for any signs of fluid leaks.
• Pay attention to any unusual sounds and/or smells from the engine, transmission and brakes.

Basic Questions to Ask the Seller -
• Has the vehicle ever been in any sort of accident or had any bodywork or paint repairs?
• Are the original owners manual and OEM factory booklets available?
• Are service and repair records available?
• When was the last time the oil and filter was changed?
• When was the last time the spark plugs, air filter or cabin air filter was changed?
• When was the last time the DSG, Haldex and Finial Drive fluids were changed?
• Has the car ever been "tuned"?
• Is the security code for the stereo available?
• Does the owner have the original title?

Miscellaneous -
• Look around the door frame and engine bay and verify all the OEM stickers and warning labels are present, correct and in the right place.
• Look for any missing, damaged or incorrect fasteners that may indicate body work may have been done.
• Remove any air fresheners before a test drive as it could be there to hide smells of mold or damp.
• Ask the seller if any other optional features are available such as roof racks, baby seats, etc.

When to Walk Away -
• If the seller objects or refuses to a mechanical inspection by a third party (at your cost).
• If the seller objects or refuses to an OBDII fault scan.
• If you discover something that is contrary to what the seller has told you.
• If you find a defect, damage or any sign of repairs that the seller can't explain.
• If you feel any pressure by the seller.
• If the seller seems overly keen to sell the car.
• If the seller is unwilling to negotiate on the price.
• If you sense something "Isn't quite right".


.
 
#31 ·
IMHO there are two critical items that need to be checked, but they can't be done as part of a visual inspection.

The first is the Haldex unit fount on the Quattro. Audi removed the requirement to change the two filters in 2007, so it's not uncommon to find that even if the fluid was changed, most services do NOT include new filters (x2). The Haldex unit is not unique to the Mk2 as the technology is used by other brands as well, but I did point this out in check list.

For the 2.0 TFSI EA113 engines, the HPFP Cam Follower should be inspected at some point especially if it's not found in the service history. Like the Quattro filters, Audi didn't include it on the Maintenance Schedule either. Again, this is not unique to the Mk2, but is also noted in the check list.

Keep in mind neither of these items can be inspected without a major service. The check list is only to inspect for visual defects or verify functionality.
 
#34 ·
These checklists don't need to be miles long, I'll post here and example of my Alfa MiTo checklist (since I have the most experience with those)
  • MultiAir filter change documented
  • Rear brakes not sticky
  • Front speakers working
  • No rust in the lower back portion of front wheel arcs (good luck finding one without)
  • Seat tilt release cables intact
  • Rear wheel bearings ok
Those will cover the 80% of possible "risks" in bying one. FYI I'm very much "on the spectrum" with anything related to stuff I buy, so I tend to do my DD extensively to say the least.
 
#37 ·
Again, the list can be adjusted to suit ones needs. For someone looking at their first car, maybe a longer list is helpful. For others who have been around the block a few times already, just a quick TT-specific list is probably sufficient.

Like most topics in the Forum, we try to help people across a very broad spectrum of knowledge and experience. ;)
 
#38 · (Edited)
I may have an item to add to engine bay list:
- check that the intake runner valve actuator arm is intact.

Now, I do not know if this is a common failure point, but soon after I got my new-to-me mk2 TT home, I noticed it was snapped. It's a really flimsy design, and a previous owner had already tried to fix it with wire and a ziptie. I did a proper (and actually a quite easy) fix, I'll be doing a write up on that as soon as I have time/energy to start a thread of my adventures in the wonderful world of TT...

This is worth checking since the broken arm renders the valve inoperable, and I found that while you can turn it by hand to either extremity, it will not stay there, so the airflow is disturbed and will affect performance even worse than having the valve stuck at either open or closed position. I also was not able to locate a replacement part, not that I would've bought one since I'm a sworn DIY guy :)
 
#39 · (Edited)
JPE61 said:
I may have an item to add to engine bay list:
- check that the intake runner valve actuator arm is intact.

Now, I do not know if this is a common failure point, but soon after I got my new-to-me mk2 TT home, I noticed it was snapped. It's a really flimsy design, and a previous owner had already tried to fix it with wire and a ziptie. I did a proper (and actually a quite easy) fix, I'll be doing a write up on that as soon as I have time/energy to start a thread of my adventures in the wonderful world of TT...
Known failure item. Unfortunately individual parts are not available. Perhaps home repairs can be made but most shops will tell you repair requires a new intake manifold.



Not sure I'd add this to the inspection checklist since failure of this item would trigger an error (making problem discovery much easier than a physical inspection of the linkage ).