Audi TT Forum banner

Difference between APX and BAM !?

21K views 34 replies 23 participants last post by  davebowk  
#1 ·
Hi,

Please could somebody tell me the difference between an APX and BAM engine as whenever I order parts they always confirm which engine it is !?

Mine is an APX as it says it next to the cambelt cover.

Cheers,

The G.
 
#7 ·
Ugemi said:
Well its newer, so probly :)
What does that "BAM is fly by wire, APX is cable " mean, is it that the bam gas pedal works electrically and on apx its via cable?
You got it... :roll:
 
#8 ·
APX was fitted up to about 2001, BAM fitted there after (except QS).
APX has a stronger bottom end (20mm pins rather than 18 /19mm).
APX has auxiliary air system (large black pump beside power steering pump).
BOTH APX and BAM have "Fly-By-Wire" throttle operation (both use ME7.5)
BAM has variable cam timing (Emission control only, unlike VTec or VANos).
BAM has 2 Lambda sensors (Emissions Regs) APX has 1.

Both produce the same power / torque etc.
Might have missed out 1 or 2 things, but that covers the majority.
 
#10 ·
Ugemi said:
Sorry to ask stupid questions, but what do you mean by stronger pins?
Shame that it dosnt have stronger rods, that I would like :)

edit:pins connect the rod to the piston, or is the pin the part of the crankshaft where the rods connect?
Sorry, the "pins" are the gudgon pins that connect the connecting rod to the piston.
According to JabbaSport, the APX rods will take more pressure than BAM before starting to bend. You would be better off buying a set of Pauter / Carrillo / Arrow rods though. :wink:
 
#13 ·
I have seen on eBay Germany 2 different ECU Tuning Chips for my 225 CV. One is for BAM and one for ATX. Both are from ABT. Why are they so different?

BAM:



APX:



I have successfully bid for the APX ECU Tuning Chip. But for several days I could have bid for the BAM model too because I thought that there would be no difference between them! :oops:
 
#14 ·
Replacing the chip in the ECU is alot more hassle than remapping the existing one?

Why not just send you ECU away to be mapped with a generic map instead of potentially ruining the motherboard?!

And ECU maps arn't determined by APX or BAM anyway. It's on the Bosch Hardware and Software numbers on the map locations.....
 
#15 ·
The APX engine also has a larger ported head although I'm not sure by how much [smiley=book2.gif]
 
#18 ·
MTW said:
while we are on the subject,whats the difference between the 225 engine and the 240QS engine?
Just the Map i think! as if you remap a 225 and remap a QS you get the same BHP
 
#24 · (Edited)
I am not sure you can get a new BAM?

BAM is much better..

1. I don't care about this, but it has EURO COMP 3,4,5....???? (or whatever 1 more than the APX) that means it currently can drive you to borough-market and the elephant and the castle

2. It has an Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor -- This adds shed loads of fuel to try and cool the cylinders, if the EGTs exceed a set number of degrees C - default I think is 920, it was sold as a way to protect the engine, but I think it was added to try and combat the hotside from cracking, but it didn't work because they all crack#

3. It has VVT - don't get excited it is no Honda VTEC, it is designed to try and control emissions when the engine is cold. example my old BMW e30 530i and my Wife's e36 323i straight 6 engines had 7 injectors when it was cold it just ran an extra injector into the inlet manifold - the VVT tries to save fuel when cold (which in turn stopped the extra poisons killing all the kids down the street being poisoned on their way to school after all the adults drove their Bimmers to work leaving a bunch of poisonous gas in the cul-de-sac

4. It has a Wideband o2 Sensor - nuff said, there is absolutely no point in trying to map one of these delicious 1.8 20v Turbocharged ME7 Motors with Narrowband - absolutely every decent guide starts with "If you do not have a wideband o2 sensor, then get one" A wideband o2 sensor is lightening quick (< 10ms) and provides feedback of the exact lambda / AFR of the gas in the downpipe directly after the turbo -> downpipe flange at any rpm, duration, throttle plate angle, duration, temperature, throttle pedal position etc etc
It allows accurate fuelling which is the most important part of mapping one of these cars, you set the desired mixture etc 12.5:1 (for best power) (0.85 lambda) and the ECU will adjust the fuelling (injector on time in ms) to meet the desired mixture, if it overshoots it, it'll be reduced again etc - an amazing thing to be able to control. Learning about this and the default settings will teach a person, even in a stock TT 225 BAM, the most sympathetic way to drive the car is "part throttle for cruising", but if you ever want to accelerate hard etc - always put you foot flat onto the floor as only on WOT (Wide Open Throttle) will the AFR / Lambda be adjusted to provide some additional enrichment to cool and protect the engine components - driving at 80% throttle might seem like the same power but unless the Throttle Plate > 95% Duty Cycle the desired lambda will be 1 (14.7:1 AFR)

With a narrowband it essentially has 2 signals > 1 or < 1 (1 Lambda is 14.7:1 AFR) and this only works with partial throttle, the narrowband cars do not use the narrowband o2 sensor when driving on WOT, a pre-set fuelling will be configured (based on Air Mass maybe?) and a tuner might well fit their own Wideband sensor during the tuning session. then the next day the weather changes the fuel octane quality is not the same etc etc


AMK (S3 210 and possibly an early Cupra R?) and BFV (240 QS) are identical to the BAM apart from the ECU map, and clutch in the case of the QS (It's lighter and weaker)
 
#29 ·
It feels like there should be a smoother way of doing this maybe with the sort of cone / cv setup the way vespa non-geared gearing works. The fact actual interfering moving parts change just sounds "breakable".


I'm still not sure how fitting different cams move the power to 5k-8k instead of 3.5k-5.5k
 
#32 ·
:D I am still none the wiser :D

"works better" but what are they doing? opening the inlet more, earlier for longer? it also feels like the ports should be automatically adjustable for smaller ports low down and opening higher up, a bit like the automatically adjusting intake manifolds in the Porsche