Hi everyone, just changed the failed turbo gasket in my TT and thought I'd show you guys how if you have the same problem.
Symptoms:
- Early symptoms include turbo whistling or screeching for me (just days before gasket failed)
- Loud tractor/noise like this
- Possible smoke /smell of exhaust fumes coming from back of engine
Diagnosis:
- Ask a garage to find out what the noise is
- Or get a bottle of soapy water and spray the area on the exhaust where there could be an exhaust leak, you will see bubbling if air is escaping.
If you find out its coming from between the turbo and the exhaust manifold, it could be that the gasket has failed.
So here is how to change the gasket, it's not a difficult job but you need the basic tools and some knowledge around the engine.
Tools required:
- Basic socket and rachet set with extensions (can't remember which size but 10mm to 18mm should be more than enough).
- E16 Inverse Torx socket
- Torque wrench (recommended)
- Copper grease
You should be good to go :mrgreen:
Parts required:
Either 06A253039E - the turbo to manifold gasket for engines AJQ,APP,ARY AUM,AUQ (around £7 from Audi)
Or 06A253039H - for engines APX,BAM
Anything else you break on the way
, you can look here for the part numbers http://www.vagcat.com/epc/cat/au/ATT/2000/229/49/2879213/
Steps:
1. Park the car somewhere safe, in case you come across a problem and have to leave it overnight. Luckily we don't need to get under the car.
2. Open bonnet, remove plastic engine and expansion tank covers.
3. First thing to do is remove the strut brace, 3 nuts on each side and 2 in the middle.
4. Unclamp and disconnect the 2 hoses connected to the charge pipe (photo).
5. Now remove the charge pipe, this is held on with two clamps (each with a nut). Unclamp the large jubilee clips on both end to fully remove the pipe.
![Image]()
6. Unclamp and remove the pink 90 degree hose from the turbocharger as well as the fabric heat shield which is buttoned in place.
7. Place a rubber glove or plastic bag over the open end of the turbocharger, we do not want things falling in there as it could damage the turbine.
8. NOW with more space, look round at the back of the engine. You can climb onto the engine bay but careful to not scratch the paint work. Find the exhaust manifold, the brown iron thing coming out the back of the engine (photo).
9. Undo the 3 E16 Inverse Torx bolts And retreive the washers **BE CAREFUL**, they can be very stiff, I ended up shearing one of them so now half of it is stuck inside the turbocharger :O
NOTE: Should be E16, the picture shows E14 which is wrong. :!:
![Image]()
10. The turbo should now drop slightly, just reach between the manifold and turbocharger and you will be able to slide out the old gasket.
![Image]()
11. Slot the new gasket in place, REMEMBERING which way it went round.
![Image]()
12. Carefully align the holes up and replace the 3 bolts (and washers) with high temperature copper grease so it doesn't seize inside and cause a problem for the next guy who comes round there. Tighten these to 30Nm.
12. Replace the pink hose and clamp onto turbo with the heatshield in place.
13. Replace the charge pipe, make sure to line it up so that the 2 clamps fit back into place. Reattach the two black hoses and both ends of the charge pipe.
13. Replace strut brace (tighten each nut to 22Nm).
14. Replace plastic covers.
15. Done! Easy.
Symptoms:
- Early symptoms include turbo whistling or screeching for me (just days before gasket failed)
- Loud tractor/noise like this
Diagnosis:
- Ask a garage to find out what the noise is
- Or get a bottle of soapy water and spray the area on the exhaust where there could be an exhaust leak, you will see bubbling if air is escaping.
If you find out its coming from between the turbo and the exhaust manifold, it could be that the gasket has failed.
So here is how to change the gasket, it's not a difficult job but you need the basic tools and some knowledge around the engine.
Tools required:
- Basic socket and rachet set with extensions (can't remember which size but 10mm to 18mm should be more than enough).
- E16 Inverse Torx socket
- Torque wrench (recommended)
- Copper grease
You should be good to go :mrgreen:
Parts required:
Either 06A253039E - the turbo to manifold gasket for engines AJQ,APP,ARY AUM,AUQ (around £7 from Audi)
Or 06A253039H - for engines APX,BAM
Anything else you break on the way
, you can look here for the part numbers http://www.vagcat.com/epc/cat/au/ATT/2000/229/49/2879213/Steps:
1. Park the car somewhere safe, in case you come across a problem and have to leave it overnight. Luckily we don't need to get under the car.
2. Open bonnet, remove plastic engine and expansion tank covers.
3. First thing to do is remove the strut brace, 3 nuts on each side and 2 in the middle.
4. Unclamp and disconnect the 2 hoses connected to the charge pipe (photo).
5. Now remove the charge pipe, this is held on with two clamps (each with a nut). Unclamp the large jubilee clips on both end to fully remove the pipe.
6. Unclamp and remove the pink 90 degree hose from the turbocharger as well as the fabric heat shield which is buttoned in place.
7. Place a rubber glove or plastic bag over the open end of the turbocharger, we do not want things falling in there as it could damage the turbine.
8. NOW with more space, look round at the back of the engine. You can climb onto the engine bay but careful to not scratch the paint work. Find the exhaust manifold, the brown iron thing coming out the back of the engine (photo).
9. Undo the 3 E16 Inverse Torx bolts And retreive the washers **BE CAREFUL**, they can be very stiff, I ended up shearing one of them so now half of it is stuck inside the turbocharger :O
NOTE: Should be E16, the picture shows E14 which is wrong. :!:
10. The turbo should now drop slightly, just reach between the manifold and turbocharger and you will be able to slide out the old gasket.
11. Slot the new gasket in place, REMEMBERING which way it went round.
12. Carefully align the holes up and replace the 3 bolts (and washers) with high temperature copper grease so it doesn't seize inside and cause a problem for the next guy who comes round there. Tighten these to 30Nm.
12. Replace the pink hose and clamp onto turbo with the heatshield in place.
13. Replace the charge pipe, make sure to line it up so that the 2 clamps fit back into place. Reattach the two black hoses and both ends of the charge pipe.
13. Replace strut brace (tighten each nut to 22Nm).
14. Replace plastic covers.
15. Done! Easy.
