You can run a Google Search for "Ross Tech XXXXX" where XXXXX is the fault code. This will bring up a link to Ross Tech's wiki which will describe the fault code, possible causes and solutions.

Ross Tech has the lion's share of the DTCs in their website, but not all, so in some cases it may take some additional surfing.

 

You can run a Google Search for "Ross Tech XXXXX" where XXXXX is the fault code. This will bring up a link to Ross Tech's wiki which will describe the fault code, possible causes and solutions.

Ross Tech has the lion's share of the DTCs in their website, but not all, so in some cases it may take some additional surfing.

Thanks for your reply.

I've found info on 10693 and P175D but in all cases the symptoms don't match mine. My gut feeling is pointing toward a solenoid or gear position sensor. I suspect my car will have to go to a specialist to make any head wind with this.

Bloody Audi's! :x

 

Glad you finally got a code set! It should at least guide you somewhere now.

I was looking at your data and found it odd too--the same things you mention. However note a few things.
-Sometimes the terms used are either internal technical terms or can be simply German words/terms. GANG for example is German for gear--which totally makes sense. However the "N" still seems to indicate neutral but perhaps it indicates that the transmission goes into neutral when the clutch disengages "unintentionally"?

-Some values may be essentially "null" values if the module doesn't receive any data from those things--for example the TCU may not receive coolant temp data which may be why it shows -40C. However at the same time it doesn't really make sense it wouldn't receive that data. However note there are many different variables which can seem to refer to the same thing--if you've ever fiddled around in VCDS monitoring values, you'll know what I mean. So "coolant temperature" may not actually be related to engine coolant temperature.

-At the same time as the above it's possible those values are supposed to be populated and really it's a communication fault somewhere between the TCU and the ECU or other module(s) or sensors. In theory though this should set communication DTCs with those things.

Just some things to consider. It doesn't really sound like it would be anything cheap though :| It's pretty tough in terms of self-diagnosis since VAG service manuals don't really go in-depth with DTCs from what I have seen (unless I haven't seen the correct manuals). They are mostly for disassembly and assembly of things but not necessarily troubleshooting. This may be because dealers/techs are expected to use GFF to troubleshoot but I'm not sure. That would seem to make sense though. So in absence of some subscription to a tech service that helps with DTCs for the particular vehicle, it's probably best left up to a pro unfortunately. Other problem with the DSG is service information has never been too detailed to begin with. For example the MU while it has many theoretically serviceable parts on it, VAG's way of "fixing" it is merely to replace it once it is diagnosed as bad. There are places that offer MU rebuilds/repair but I believe most of these guys have figured this stuff out through things like trial and error, reverse engineering, and simply understanding the components, operation, and electronics on the board(s). I would think if you go to a shop that is really well versed/specialised in DSG repairs they should be able to figure it out though. Best of luck!

 

+1 TT'sRevenge - The Workshop Manuals don't really get into much in the way of diagnostics or root cause analysis. They provide rudimentary instructions for taking things apart and putting them back together. For more of the theory, there is some additional information in the Self Study Programs (SSP) but they tend to be more generic for topics like engines and transmissions. There are several SSPs which are specific to each model (including the TT Coupe and Roadster) but they are not really written for trouble-shooting.

You can find a good selection of Workshop Manuals and SSPs in the Knowledge Base -

FAQ - Audi TT (8J) Workshop Manuals & Self Study Programs
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1833829

Be aware that it's possible to have a fault code that is no longer active, meaning the fault was reported, the repair was made, but the fault was never cleared. This is why it's always a good idea when you get a "new" car to run an fault scan, clear all the DTCs and then drive the car. After the test drive run another fault scan to see which ones (if any) come back indicating the problem is still present.

 

That is all great information, thank you both. It gives me something to refer to in the weeks between now and when it goes into the specialist. Who knows, I might even get down to the route cause.


Thanks again guys.

 

I'm just putting this information on the thread for any one searching in the future.

The fix is to reset the gearbox basic settings and clutch curve using VCDS. Then you drive like an absolute lunatic for a couple of days while the gearbox is adapting to your driving style. That's it.

I think my car has never been driven properly in its whole life. When I first drove it everything was really tight. It would seem the gearbox had gotten into lazy habits and just needed a kick up the arse. Either that or one of the solenoids had become a bit stuck and it just needed a good work out. Either way, I'm a very happy boy.

 

Good to hear that it's fixed!

On a previous auto gearbox vehicle I had, there was a way to reset the gearbox without needing manufacturer diagnostic tools.
It was a Land Rover and the trick was:
0. Press "Start" button only. (ie: Do NOT start the engine.)
1. Press and hold gas pedal to floor for approx. 15secs.
2. Press "Start" button again.
3. Release gas pedal.
4. Wait approx. 2mins.; start engine and drive.

I wonder if there's an Audi trick?
Jez

 

Good to hear that it's fixed!

On a previous auto gearbox vehicle I had, there was a way to reset the gearbox without needing manufacturer diagnostic tools.
It was a Land Rover and the trick was:
0. Press "Start" button only. (ie: Do NOT start the engine.)
1. Press and hold gas pedal to floor for approx. 15secs.
2. Press "Start" button again.
3. Release gas pedal.
4. Wait approx. 2mins.; start engine and drive.

I wonder if there's an Audi trick?
Jez

I found something like this for Audi/VW but it didn't work. When you go into VCDS and look at the gearbox there are a huge amount of different parameters. I don't think a complete reset would do it any good. With VCDS you can pick and choose.

I bought this:

https://www.gendan.co.uk/product_VCV210.html

The way I look at it 300 quid is a big out lay but if I hadn't fiddled about with the gearbox on VCDS and mended it myself I would have been landed with a huge bill from a gearbox specialist. When you buy the adapter you also get access to Rosstech's technical advice forum as well. When I come to sell the car I can sell the VCDS adapter and get most of my money back. It really is win win [smiley=dude.gif]

 

I'm just putting this information on the thread for any one searching in the future.

The fix is to reset the gearbox basic settings and clutch curve using VCDS. Then you drive like an absolute lunatic for a couple of days while the gearbox is adapting to your driving style. That's it.

I think my car has never been driven properly in its whole life. When I first drove it everything was really tight. It would seem the gearbox had gotten into lazy habits and just needed a kick up the arse. Either that or one of the solenoids had become a bit stuck and it just needed a good work out. Either way, I'm a very happy boy.

Keep in mind if you run the adaptation it may cause the gearbox to work great...for a week or two. Then the problem(s) may re-appear.

Wait a few weeks and see if it gets worse again before celebrating too much.