Hmm, if you remove the original solenoid (or if you can just unplug it) you should be able to test the solenoid with 12 volts and see if it clicks/actuates. If not, you got a bad solenoid and yeah should be able to replace it if that's the correct part.

I would also think that a bad solenoid would give you an error in VCDS, because it should be able to detect the circuit is not working...but of course it depends on the mode of failure of the solenoid and valve. Maybe the solenoid is working electrically but the valve is not physically good--another possibility. You'd basically need to remove the valve, and then blow into it or whatever (or use compressed air source) then actuate the solenoid and see if everything works--from the solenoid actuation to the valve not leaking and also flowing when it's supposed to.

I've not actually located/seen this solenoid myself before so I'm not sure how hard or easy it is to get at to test or R&R. I doubt it's that hard but the location has never been too obvious to me.

 

After a bit of research it looks like this identical 12v solenoid.

There is definitely van pulling on it, but none the other side when sport is on or off.

So I guess either faulty solenoid / seized or bad power / ground.

I’ll pull it in the daylight when I next get chance and check it has a signal and it changes when s or not in s mode.

thanks.

 

TBH I think it's a misconception that simply putting the car in Sport at idle will change the exhaust. I don't think the flap is ever actuated at idle, only with throttle. The flap also still actuates in normal mode with the throttle, it's just different thresholds where the valve opens with sport v. normal mode. Newer cars like say B8 S4, etc. will change at idle but I don't think our "old" cars do that.

When I put my car (which is an S not an RS) in sport, nothing changes at idle and never has. Sounds the same IMO and even looking at the exhaust flow on a cold day, I can't really see any increase in the right left side when the car is just sitting there. I've never tried to have someone rev the engine and observed though, but I'm pretty sure it is operating correctly when the valve is actually being actuated.

Anyway you should be able to see (and possibly manually actuate) the solenoid status with VCDS or OBDeleven in measuring blocks. Check that and go from there. Otherwise, w/o a scan tool you could remove the electrical connector, manually apply the correct voltage and see if the valve changes and vacuum is applied out the other port. I would do that before jumping to the conclusion that your solenoid/valve is defective.

 

Thanks for that, I dont suppose you know where it is on ondeleven?

 

I don't but then I wouldn't know off hand for VCDS either, heh. Probably something to hunt around for. Should be able to find it somewhere in measuring blocks, and if there's any test on/off command for it should be in adaptation I'd imagine. You may need to know what channel adaptation if it's even possible to manually command it on/off (which I think you should be able to do but not sure as I've never actually tried).

In terms of what measuring block you'd find the data for ON/OFF on I'm not sure about OBDeleven but in VCDS you can use the "Advanced" feature and then textually search for say "exhaust" and might be able to find it like that.'

I'm trying to google to see if anyone mentions what the measuring block ID or adaptation# is for this but I'm coming up a little short--seems like something where some actual trial & error is required...

 

Thanks for looking, I searched but only came up with something for a golf r, so I jumped in the app last night but couldn’t see anything. I’ll have a better look around today.

 

@ steve-x - Couple of questions -

1.) Can you provide the following information -

• Year
• Engine - 2.0 TFSI, 2.0 TDI, 3.2 VR6
• Engine type* - EA888, BUB
• Gear Box - DSG or Manual
• Drive Train - FWD or Quattro
• Model - Coupe or Roadster

*Your engine type can be found on the VIN tag either in the boot/trunk or inside the front cover of the Owners Manual or Service Booklet.

2.) What's the N-number for this solenoid?

With that information, I might be able to look up the VCDS Address-01 Engine Label File specific to your engine and then figure out which measurement(s) blocks are applicable for this solenoid. Even if you don't have VCDS, the measurement blocks would be the same in OBDeleven.

 

Greetings, what is the N number? I couldn’t get specific numbers off of the solenoid when I checked yesterday as its pretty well hidden.


Year 2011
• Engine - 2.5 TFSI
• Engine type* - CEPA
• Gear Box - Manual
• Drive Train - Quattro
• Model - Roadster

 

Thanks for the information. I updated your profile info so it's always displayed.

I ran a Google search for the P/N and found N239. Does this sound right? Perhaps you can track down the solenoid on a wiring diagram to verify? We have them in the KB if you want to check -

FAQ - Audi TT (8J) Workshop Manuals & Self Study...

Audi TT (8J) Workshop Manuals & Self Study Programs Section Index - You can either scroll down through this post or just click on the section of interest. Section 1 - Body & Interior Section 2 - Electrical Wiring Diagrams, Communications and HVAC Section 3 - Engines (Petrol & Diesel) Section...

www.ttforum.co.uk

I also looked it up for related faults and got these from Ross Tech Wiki. if you have a VCSD or OBDeleven and run a fault scan, it would expect to see one or both of these if there's something wrong with yours.

19561/P3105/012549 - Valve for Intake Manifold Flap (N239): Open or Short to Ground
01282 - Intake Manifold Flap Change-Over Valve (N239)

.

 

Thanks for the information. I updated your profile info so it's always displayed.

I ran a Google search for the P/N and found N239. Does this sound right? Perhaps you can track down the solenoid on a wiring diagram to verify? We have them in the KB if you want to check -

FAQ - Audi TT (8J) Workshop Manuals & Self Study...

Audi TT (8J) Workshop Manuals & Self Study Programs Section Index - You can either scroll down through this post or just click on the section of interest. Section 1 - Body & Interior Section 2 - Electrical Wiring Diagrams, Communications and HVAC Section 3 - Engines (Petrol & Diesel) Section...

www.ttforum.co.uk

I also looked it up for related faults and got these from Ross Tech Wiki. if you have a VCSD or OBDeleven and run a fault scan, it would expect to see one or both of these if there's something wrong with yours.

View attachment 512678
View attachment 512679

Oh, no fault codes for the solenoid either 🤷🏻

 

Thanks, N220

Going to check the valve with a syringe, I know the vac isn’t getting past the solenoid valve (n220) but pointless getting that working I guess if the actual exhaust valve doesn’t work under vacuum. So next step I’ll syringe the valve, then need to figure if the wiring or solenoid is OK.

 

Exhaust flap valve N220...?

Have you tried the search function to see if anyone else has posted on it?

 

Very little info, but some people talking about samsung netbooks 😁

 

I went out after work, pain in the ass to get to the connector but managed to do it. The vacuum chamber is held on by two bolts.

Undo those bolts and it also releases the exhaust clamp mount, so this makes the exhaust drop slightly. You then need to disconnect the d clip (I bloody hate these things). The wire is so short that comes through the boot floor, it is impossible to disconnect by moving the bracket down, so it was an operation of going through the fake exhaust pipe trim in the bumper to release the clip lol.

Once done the you can play tetris, by dropping and flipping the bracket with attached vacuum chamber.

I then unclipped the solenoid from the bracket.

I tested the plug to the solenoid by using some paperclips on test wires to my voltmeter.

With sport mode off it rests at 8v at idle. With sports on it was 14.4v, so matched battery / alternator output with engine running (with engine off, S button does not activate and stays at 8v). I ‘assume’ 8v rest is not enough to open it, but 12v+ is.

I used my 12v pack to connect negative and positive to the solenoid to test it, there is a dull orange spark when connecting to the pins, and zero activation. So it would seem the n220 solenoid is dead. I hit it a few times but it didn’t bring it back to life lol.

Before I did all of this, I wanted to test the exhaust valve. A medical syringe on a vac pipe doesn’t appear to work 🤷🏻

I put my finger instead over the vac port of the valve and pressed the spring back - there is firm pressure so I take it the membrane inside is not compromised, as its impossible to open with my finger of the port.

Activating it by pushing the rod creates a noise as though it is pressing air out and drawing air in, so fingers crossed the valve itself is ok. I did think of connecting to the vac pipes up directly then running the engine to test if it closed, but I haven’t yet.

Photo attached of the solenoid. I plan to order a generic new one off ebay to test, and if the system works again as factory intended, I will splice the brown wire in the boot and fit a switch to bypass if I ever want to switch it off and have the exhaust open all of the time.

 

I went out after work, pain in the ass to get to the connector but managed to do it. The vacuum chamber is held on by two bolts.

Undo those bolts and it also releases the exhaust clamp mount, so this makes the exhaust drop slightly. You then need to disconnect the d clip (I bloody hate these things). The wire is so short that comes through the boot floor, it is impossible to disconnect by moving the bracket down, so it was an operation of going through the fake exhaust pipe trim in the bumper to release the clip lol.

Once done the you can play tetris,...

WOW a lot of work for that little piece for sure. Sucks but at least you got it done and found the solenoid is bad--guess there's your culprit. Interestingly sounds like you're working at the rear of the car? I always thought that [control] valve was all the way at the engine bay, but I guess not. I never really noticed it at the back where the [muffler] actuator valve is but maybe I didn't look hard enough!

Before I did all of this, I wanted to test the exhaust valve. A medical syringe on a vac pipe doesn’t appear to work 🤷🏻

I don't think that's gonna be enough vacuum no, lol. You're going to need like -10psi or more (well "less" actually haha) I'd imagine, to get it to move. Since you are (or were) at the valve you could have removed the vac lines and then just held them together in your hands. Or could connect them with a simple small plastic union of the correct size if too much vacuum leaking.

I put my finger instead over the vac port of the valve and pressed the spring back - there is firm pressure so I take it the membrane inside is not compromised, as its impossible to open with my finger of the port.

Not 100% sure what this means but if you can move the plunger thing manually on the muffler side without too much trouble, it should be fine. There should be some resistance but it should be doable and shouldn't get "stuck" anywhere in the range of movement...then move properly/quickly back when you release it. As long as that's all moving and snapping back fine I think you're fine there. You also did well to check the air moving in/out so yeah I think that actuator on the exhaust is fine.

 

On mine I had to replace the valve once. There were also no fault codes. In my case, in the end, the flap stayed open the whole time and would close only occasionally.
Everything is doable with just removing the rear wheel and pulling the wheel arch liner out of the way. The valve was a bit tough to remove but managable.

I can also confirm that the exhaust flap will be open when idling in sports mode. I think it's always open in N & 1st gear, closed in 2nd and 3rd at low RPM and always open again 4th and higher.

 

I can also confirm that the exhaust flap will be open when idling in sports mode. I think it's always open in N & 1st gear, closed in 2nd and 3rd at low RPM and always open again 4th and higher.

You know, now I'm beginning to wonder if mine is not working correctly, lol. Guess I will check it out a bit better before putting the car back on the road in the summer, to be sure.

I do have an S though and not an RS, not sure if there's any difference in the way it's programmed for the different cars.

 

All working, solenoid replaced was a 5 min job (could connect from underneath and slide it up to clip on the bracket and I had already put back the other day.

Can hear it click at idle when activated. I’ve not been for a drive to see how different it sounds now.

I also spliced into the brown and purple wire and ran it to the drivers side under the steering wheel. I’m fitting a small 14mm rocket switch under the dash so I can bypass the default functions and have it open app the time if I like.

I’ll post pictures and a video later.

 

Wires to the front ready for seitch fitting.

The brown and purple wire spliced into.

Shielded the cable (black one here) and cable tied / routed with factory loom into the cabin.

Old valve.

New valve.

Underneath.

Where the 14mm rocker switch will go.

 

New solenoid fitted:

Solenoid test

Button bypass test

 

You could always put the switch in your ash tray so you don't have to cut up the dash...

Update - If you have access to a 3D printer, or know someone who does, this might be worth looking at -

 

You could always put the switch in your ash tray so you don't have to cut up the dash...

Update - If you have access to a 3D printer, or know someone who does, this might be worth looking at -

View attachment 512837
View attachment 512838

That’s a cool idea. Bit late now I’ve chopped into a button blank though

Useful idea for anyone else.

 

Just seen this, that wasn’t a bad idea. I came up with another idea though, although it was far more work, I decided to use a button blank, I mean although its not the same style as the factory ones, but its just a useless blank, so I mounted it in there

I think it looks ok, plus easy to swap out to a new blank if needed.

I poked the wire through the terminals, wrapped and hot glued. I didn’t want the hot solder iron near the leather!

 

Oh and it DID log an error!

Seems even though the solenoid was screwed, interrupting the connection when active throws a code - ‘open circuit’.

Again though, I’m not worried at this stage, I can’t see it throwing a EML, and I’ve already got several errors from changing the stereo, unfortunately a byproduct of changing things in the car.

And here is a video of it in action - the car is so quiet now with bypass switch off and it in normal mode lol.

The sports mode does open it at idle, annoyingly does the same as one of our other cars, shuts at about 2k rpm when you pull off and opens later on, seems to stay shut in 2nd, and opens above 3.5k ish rpm in other gears.

But if I want it as it has been for three years, I just click my little magic button 😂