Are you running the initialisation with the engine on? - if not, try doing so…..also, low volts have been known to mess with things….

 

Hi Stevie Jones,

I tried it with the engine running this time, but still it just runs and runs.

I just found another post that describes this but not the solution.
Cheers

 

Hmmm 🤔.

@SwissJetPilot is you’re man here to help with this as he’s really clued up with VCDS & soft top fault finding and resolving - I’m sure he’ll be along shortly with some good advice for you 😉

Are there still roof related fault codes showing?

You might have read through this, but it could help…

FAQ - Mk2 Roadster Convertible Measurement Blocks, Fault...

Section 1 - Convertible Top Fault Codes When the roof fails to operate properly, it will require a VAG software compatible OBDII diagnostic device in order to identify the DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code) and affected components. Since fault scans and drill-downs can often take a while, it's a...

www.ttforum.co.uk

 

Are there still roof related fault codes showing?

That would be my first question.

The Output Test and Initialization is designed to allow the user to operate the center console switch and move the top through a full open and close. Upon completlon, any faults against the RFS would be cleared.

It's possible that there could still be a fault being reported somewhere else in the system. Or even against the RFS despite the fact Big Rex 2 already cleaned them. One must pay careful attention not to damage the "fingers" on the copper contacts that that has been reported as a failure point in the past.

https://www.ttforum.co.uk/threads/faq-trouble-shooting-the-mk2-roadster-convertible-soft-top-problems-solutions.1953141/?post_id=9310655#post-9310655

 

Failing that, there are F171 / F202 Hall Sensor in the frame that could be defective. They don't throw a fault, but will show up in the Measurement Blocks if they are not working properly.

See this post -

https://www.ttforum.co.uk/threads/faq-trouble-shooting-the-mk2-roadster-convertible-soft-top-problems-solutions.1953141/?post_id=9310655#post-9310655

 

Hi Steviejones,

I cleared the dt's this time and did it with engine running and top down.

And it completed the test.

The Implausible signal has gone but my

I have 01091 switch front canopy (f202)

I'm also worried my hydraulic lines are not primed.

 

As suspected -

(https://www.ttforum.co.uk/threads/f...ks-fault-codes-output-test-initialisation.2019023/?post_id=9521307#post-9521307)

01091 - Convertible Top Front Switch (F202)​

This is a Hall Sensor located in the left main bearing of the convertible top frame.​

It can be repaired (replaced), but it's not easy.

Audi TT (8J) Cabriolet Hall Sensor / Switch Repair Kit, 8J0972387 F202, F171. If you still have your old roof assembly and cables, you may be able to salvage them, test the hall switches and install them into the new roof.

When you do, PLEASE photo document where the hall sensors are on your old top. It will help anyone else who runs into this problem. The more pictures you can post the better. There's a guy in the UK who can repair them, but he's not sharing how to do it for obvious reasons. But it should be possible to do it and figure out how.

 

Thank you for your help gents, it is very much appreciated.

I have just looked on ebay and there is a hall switch repair kit on there.

It seems to be the no 1 in the image above.

It is very easy to get too on the the car,
no 2 will be a bit of a pig.

I'm going to splice no 1 off my old hood onto my new one.

Before I do this would you guys mind having a look at my measuring block outputs. Incase you see something obvious.

 

Assuming that's in the roof, exactly which one is that...F170 or F172?
Can you provide a better image of what you have going on there. We only have a reference (below) from SSP391...? Link here - SSP 391 Audi TT Roadster - Mk2.pdf
Would be nice to see it where it's installed as well since the SSP images are a bit crap.

 

I've take some more pics to make it more clear, it's in the left side of the car.

 

I was assuming as there is only a hall sensor in passenger side mechanism that both F170 And F172 would be getting their info from that?

I could be talking rubbish mind, so my apologies if I am

 

Correct, this Hall Switch is located in the left side mechanism.

Ah, okay...this is your convertible top out of the vehicle?!?! Now the image makes sense. I thought I was looking at the roof latches.

With your original image flipped over, we're looking at the Outside of the Frame where the Hall Sensor the wiring harness clamp are attached. Brilliant!

Do you know what size Torx screws these use...? Just the Torx bit size; T20...? It's impossible to see them.

It looks like if Hall Sensor is replaced while in the vehicle, the Hall Sensor screw can be backed off (loosened) and the Sensor will come free. But the cable retention screw has to be removed completely due to the cable clamp. Tricky!

That's going to be a real PITA doing that in place. Not looking forward to THAT day! LOL!

With the left Roof Flap in the up position, you can see the Hall Sensors:
(1) F202
(2) F171
(3) Left hydraulic piston is just for reference -

 

Looks like I found the Hall Sensor manufacture. They're productid by a company called TE Connectivity. Now I just need to find if I can buy them...

Part number: SW01P (SW zero 1P)

I found their authorized distributor list, so maybe it's possible to order them directly. I've contacted a couple of them here in Germany so we'll see how that works out. For you guys in the UK or USA, you might also give it a try with distributors in your area. Hopefully we can get out hands on these without getting pulled over the table on eBay.

Find Authorized Distributors

View our Authorized Distributors by country.

www.te.com

Test a Product Today

Interested in testing a TE product? Order a free sample today! When searching products, look for

www.te.com

 

@ Big rex 2 - Please keep us updated when your new Hall Sensor comes in. It would be great to see how you make the repair, splice, etc.

This issue does come up from time to time and if we can provide a good DIY, it will make life easier for people who may not have access to a shop in their area since this would be a stupidly expensive repair if done by Audi Service since they will pull the entire top to do it.

Only one guy I am aware of who can do this in the vehicle without pulling the top, but not everyone is going to be able to visit his shop in the UK.

 

Thanks your help Swiss jet pilot, it is very much appreciated.

The torx is t20, there wasn't enough room for me to get to the front of the bolt with either of my torx sets.

So I removed the plastics from behind the driver's seat, undid the two big bolts that hold the mechanism in place, used a pry par to move the hood mechanism out by about 1cm and undid it.

I cut off the sensor (pictured above) from the frame I had removed from the car, took about 15 mins.

I used a connector block, but will solder it now I know it works.

No error code for roof latch anymore 😀

The roof latch unlocks and the pump starts whirring in the boot but there is no movement in the hood.


I think now it is just a case of me priming the hydraulics.

 

Sounds like a great result so far, and far cheaper than a dealership repair!

 

Thanks stevieJones, the help from you guys and having a spare hood to canabablise parts of helped.

Now to prime these struts 😬

 

Okay, makes sense. When I was looking at mine this morning, trying to figure out how to get access to the Hall Sensor and cable screws, it occurred to me that pulling the back cover and possible the one around the Roll bar might make the job a lot easier.

 

You are spot on Swiss jet pilot, I removed 4 and lifted up 2 after disconnecting the flap rods.

Made the job so much easier.

Priming these struts is proving to harder than I thought.

I wish I'd asked for the pump to be left on and paid the guy extra.

 

Our thoughts and prayers are with you. You might also ask this guy, as he recently did his...

https://www.ttforum.co.uk/threads/2008-roadster-hydraulic-pump-replaced-fixed.2037616/?post_id=9670698#post-9670698

 

Thank you Swissjet pilot.

I've been at it an hour now and getting no where fast.

I have a fair amount of experience with a chemistry equipment and pump priming.

I'll fabricate something in the engineering lab tomorrow and post some pics once I get It working.

Once again, thanks for your help and your quick responses.

 

Have you looked through the Workshop Manual on the convertible top? You can find it in the Knowledge Base along with a number of others. Look under Section 1 - Body & Interior. Link below -

FAQ - Audi TT (8J) Workshop Manuals & Self Study...

Audi TT (8J) Workshop Manuals & Self Study Programs Section Index - You can either scroll down through this post or just click on the section of interest. Section 1 - Body & Interior Section 2 - Electrical Wiring Diagrams, Communications and HVAC Section 3 - Engines (Petrol & Diesel) Section...

www.ttforum.co.uk

General Body Repairs, Exterior (Convertible Top) - RG 50 55 57 61 63 64 66 - A005TT00220

 

@ Big rex 2 - Based on this illustration from the Workshop Manual, can you point out item (2). The Hall Sensor has already been identified (1), however I can't see how (2) is arranged or what's on the end of the cable. Also, can you please show how (2) is fastened to the frame. Cheers!

 

Hi Swissjetpilot,

2 is held on by a t20 torx also, unlike 1 which needs only a few turns to release this is fully screwed into the frame.

It is accessible through a hole on the opposite side of the hinge mechanism, when the hood is up.

I tried this on my spare hood (off the car)

I'll take a pic later.

Can I post short video clips on here?

Cheers

 

You can't post a video directly, but you can upload one to YouTube and then link it here.