I never quite understood why/when the aluminium part was provided? I'm guessing that second pan is only on the roadster (or only the VR6)? Or was it supplied from the factory on coupes/other engines as well?

 

Hopefully we can get a few more people to display their belly pans, describe the hardware used and the engine it's related to.
Something to keep in mind on your next oil change.

 

Hopefully we can get a few more people to display their belly pans, describe the hardware used and the engine it's related to.

From my 2008 USDM 3.2 Quattro Roadster (02/07 Build Date). The FRP front pan is a 8J8825235A, the rear Aluminum pan doesn't have a part number that I could find on it. With one exception (the 8mm TS8) the bolts were like in post #1

The exception, who knows if it's original these things get touched on a regular basis and This might be a random replacement that fit.

 

BWA 01/08 2.0 TFSI.

No aluminium pan I’m happy to report. Three different sized screws for the plastic pan. The rear three that account for two of the different sized screws were a pitta to dislodge. Impact driver/lump hammer territory!

 

Mine went back with a coating of copper paste. Probably the only lubricate you need for fixed parts. 500ml would last a few lifetimes, but it cheaper in bulk I lost my tinin the house move.

 

My TTRS has both pans and when I called two different Audi dealers they gave me different P/N for the aluminum screws. VW has a similar M6x20 screw but the head is much higher so there is more surface area for the Torx bit to grab the screw. I highly suggest you use some ant-seize on these screws When replacing.

 

Which PN and do you have a picture of them? Did you use copper paste?

 

The Audi screw is on the left and the VW on the right. I have no idea of the P/N for the VW screw. As you can see I use the copper paste.

Here is a place to get the screws in the UK

 

 

When you order the fasteners online, be aware the fasteners are different depending on the vehicle and whether you have a 1-piece or 2-piece belly pan. So be sure to check your existing fasteners. As always, when in doubt about the correct PN, take your VIN to Audi Service and have them look it up.

(2) N90775001 (4,8x16)

(2) N10644401 (M6x22)

(2A) N90859402 (M6x1.4) - Rivnut for the frame

(3) N10433701 (Speed nut for N90775001 panel bolt)

(4) 1K0825951 (M6x20)

(5) WHT000729A (M8x20)

(5) N91009701 (M8x25 Triple Square)

 

You know something is completely overengineered when you need multiple fastners for a bellypan

 

For other models, if you are unsure about which pan yours came with, have Audi Service run you VIN and they can tell you exactly which one is right for your vehicle. Otherwise you can look at LLLParts and probably figure it out as their list calls out Coupe, Roadster, Diesel, etc.

https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/audi/RDW/ATT/609/8/825/825000

 

I had the undertray off of my late 2007 (MY2008) coupe over the weekend. It is the single piece plastic one. Here are some details to add to this thread.

Red: N90775001 (4.8x16) x9

Green: 1K0825951 (M6x20) x4

Blue: WHT000729A (M8x20) x1

 

What's used in the four across the center...?

 

Nothing, the metal frame differs and there is no central support

 

Wait you don't have the press fit rivnut things across the bar underneath there?

Also I just noticed something...the rear centre screw on these (that's different than all the others)...I don't even have that on mine! However I'm pretty sure the plastic is just clean broken off there, like it should have been there but is not. But the plastic is broken in such a way that you'd think it was never there to begin with lol. Well that is until you pay careful attention to pics of what it should look like 😂

 

I believe there are 2 versions of the metal support frame depending on whether the single or split undertray is fitted, though it looks like the single one has the holes in the same place as where the split one joins?

The rear single one is actually embedded in the plastic. It has an integrated free spinning washer part. Actually quite handy, but probably caused by overtightening in the past. Making this type of fitting a T40 head is asking for it really. At least the T25s around the front would typically require a small ratchet and hence less likely to be overtightened

 

I believe there are 2 versions of the metal support frame depending on whether the single or split undertray is fitted, though it looks like the single one has the holes in the same place as where the split one joins?

Hmm mine has the same pan as yours--one piece plastic but it does have the riv nuts and the screws in the centre. A couple of the screws on mine are missing--one because just missing lol, the other because the screw was broken off in the riv nut--all before I owned it. I drilled out the broken part (easy enough) but never got around to getting those bolts. I guess I have the p/n now (1K0825951) so next parts order or stealer parts counter visit for whatever, I'll pick these up. One rivnut was also "spun" when I got it but I fixed that with some JB weld and it has been good since!

The rear single one is actually embedded in the plastic. It has an integrated free spinning washer part. Actually quite handy, but probably caused by overtightening in the past. Making this type of fitting a T40 head is asking for it really. At least the T25s around the front would typically require a small ratchet and hence less likely to be overtightened

That central rear one, I take it that goes in the subframe? 'Cause I've never even noticed it. My undertray, like yours has seen better days lol. Scraped up a lot (not sure what POs were doing...offroading? lol) But yeah mine's also cracked here and there but overall still intact. But that rear lip where that screw would go--blue circled by SJP--is just completely gonzo 🤣 like it was never there to begin with but obviously was.

I use power [ratchets] on everything here haha but I'm real careful when re-installing so I just spin it down to near the end and then hand ratchet it (w/o power) to snug/tighten it. This is unlike a shop mechanic who would surely just power them all the way down, and undobtedly why that one bolt was broken off, and also why that one other rivnut was spun 🤦‍♂️ Another reason I don't go to shops/mechanics but I digress!

 

It's a minefield then 😁

Aside from being scratched, mine is actually all good, no cracks or splits including around the holes where the bolts go. To be honest I think you'd be lucky to find one that isn't scratched on a relatively low car like the TT. Mine after brushes over the central mound type speed bumps that are common in residential areas here

 

@ MT-V6 - Guessing your frame looks like this one with no cross bar. PN 8J8.802.017 E

 

Yes I think so

 

That looks like a random bolt, but probably better than the one that's supposed to be there!

 

Also 8J7 part numbers are roadster specific (8J8 is couple, 8J1 is LHD, 8J2 is RHD, 8J0 is not specific)

So for some reason the roadsters have the 2 part under tray. Maybe the aluminium section actually adds some strength?