It's a good idea but where you gunna put it? I have a feeling it'll messy up the engine bay too much.

 

@ IPG3.6 - I've ordered a Touareg PCV hose (shown below on an actual Touareg) and will take a look at whether or not it will fit. Swapping Touareg PCV for the TT breather tube would be the easy fix it if will work. They look exactly the same size and length, so it should be a straight forward one-to-one swap.

According to the 7zap parts website Part Number 022.103.765A and 022.103.245B are used on a number of 6-cylinder engines; AZZ, BMV, BAA, BMX, BKJ, and BRJ for both the Touareg and Phaeton.

Other sources -

• Vaico: V10-2795, PCV Valve
• Febi Bilstein: 47564, Engine Crankcase Vent Valve

Touareg engine with PCV vent hose -

 

I know I'm new around here, but my opinion for what it's worth is that personally I would fit the $30 part. What you save on the price (maybe $15 on the difference between the external PCV valve and the diaphragm kit prices ) plus the fact you will be able to take a look under the covers when doing fitting the diaphragm...and keeping a tidy engine bay will help preserve the resale value should you ever wish to part company with your 3.2.......

Just an opinion and it may be wrong! 8)

 

@ Oldboater - Yes, you're right. But let's say the internal PCV diaphragm fails when I'm on holiday and miles from home. I can't just pop into the local auto parts store, buy a replacement PCV diaphragm and swap it out in the hotel parking lot. This is why I hope the Touareg PCV swap will work.

Here's a YouTube video and link to what it takes to get the valve cover off. Only Audi would take a simple $5 part and design into a location that costs me $250 in labor just to get to it!

VR6 3.2 (BUB) Engine Valve Cover Removal
https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread. ... ms-Install

 

Latest update on this potential workaround. I removed the TT Vent Tube and replaced it with a Touareg PCV to verify fit and function.

The three stand-offs on the Intake Manifold are pretty strong and with some kind words of encouragement from IPG3.6, I managed to get the TT Vent Tube off. The trick is to use a small nylon pry bar (a screwdriver will work, but you really don't want to break the Manifold stand-offs) to release each clip. Then I inserted a stiff piece of plastic shim (plastic credit card stock or old hotel key card) in between the stand-off and the clip so the clips can't snap back. I shimmed each one and then pulled it straight up and out.

NOTE - You'll notice the clips on the TT and Tourareg are slightly different as the TT fits inside the stand-offs, while the Touareg fit over the stand-offs. Also important to note, one of the stand-offs is keyed with two small bumps to ensure the PCV can only be fitted on way. The Touraeg clip is also keyed, so just be aware of this especially if you are using a non-OEM PCV. If it doesn't have the notches, it may break the clip.

During my installation, the fit at both ends was perfect and the N79 heater connector is identical. After letting the engine run for about 5-minutes or so, no lights came on and the engine sounded exactly as before and I couldn't hear any vacuum leaks. I then removed the Touareg PCV and swapped it back for the TT Vent Tube. As before, there was no noticeable difference. So I think that at least proves the two designs and their respective fittings are 100% interchangeable and vacuum tight.

The only other thing that would have to be done when the internal diaphragm fails, is to block the small 3mm vent hole just above where the Vent Tube connects to the hump at the back of the Valve Cover. This will be where the vacuum leak will occur when the internal diaphragm fails. A small self tapping or fine pitch stainless steel M4 screw with Loctite should be an ideal permanent solution, or dab of Permatex® High-Temp Red RTV Silicone Gasket Maker.

NOTE - Be aware that screwing a steel screw into an aluminum valve cover could lead to galvanic corrosion between the dissimilar materials. An aluminum screw would be the best solution, however if you go with a steel screw use 316 Stainless Steel rather than plain steel or galvanized. The use of Loctite should help minimize any metal to metal contact. If you don't have a tap set handy, you can use a steel M4 screw with the same thread pitch as your aluminum screw to cut into the hole so the aluminum screw doesn't gall when installed.

NOTE - You should only block the valve cover vent hole WHEN THE INTERNAL DIAPHRAGM FAILS or it may adversely affect how the internal PCV diaphragm functions.

Pay attention to the stand-off closest to the vent hole in the valve cover as it is keyed with two protrusions. This is to ensured the Touareg PCV is installed in the correct orientation. If you install a non-OEM PCV vent tube, you may need to cut notches in the tab to it will fit properly or you may end up breaking the clip when you try to install it.

 

VAG engineers are really doing a great job on making something simple very complicated.

 

And bloody expensive! Another advantage of using the Touraeg PCV is the diaphragm can be replaced quite easily -

 

Nice work and love your unconventional thinking to expand the solutions to our cars. As parts become less and less available ideas like this are going to be life savers!

 

Hi guys

I know I am resurrecting an old thread here but the search function didn't come up with anything!

Do we know if anyone has attempted this fix alternative, and if so, was it successful?

I have just ordered the parts to attempt it myself, as I have just had the dreaded PCV failure, and no way do I want the 7 hour labour bill to get that head cover off

 

@ Magnus32 - I've been running with the Toureg PVC tube installed in my TT for a while now without any problems. However, the PCV diaphragm inside the valve cover hasn't yet failed. But at least this proves the Toureg PCV doesn't affect the airflow or trigger a MIL light on the dash.

Since yours has failed, the only way to know for sure that this will concept will work is to install the Toureg PCV tube, start the engine and block the hole in the valve cover with your finger (while the engine is still cold so you don't burn yourself) and see if that stops the leak and eliminates the fault.

If that does work, you can try blocking the hole with a dab of High-Temp Red RTV Silicone (rather than installing a screw) drive it for a while and see how that holds up. Obviously a self-tapping screw would be a more permanent solution.

Word of Caution - removing the OEM PCV clips from the intake manifold is a PITA! Take your time, and try to shim each one with a plastic pry bar or shims stock rather than using a metal tool (e.g. a screwdriver). Anytime I have to work with plastic on plastic, I prefer to use plastic tools.

The manifold clips are quite rigid so you want to deflect the PCV clips inwards so they are out of the slots in order to get them free. I shimmed and released each one at a time, and as it came free, I lifted it up and shoved the shim in so the clip couldn't re-engage. Once you get them all free, it comes away easily enough.

If you look carefully, you'll notice the Toureg PCV clips are a slightly different design as they are intended to fit outside and over, rather than inside, the manifold clips.

Looking forward to how this works out!

 

Thank you @SwissJetPilot

All bits ordered, including some m2 screws! I will pop a bit of silicone over it for a test run and report back.
At the moment, with the diaghraphm faulty, if I put my finger over that hole, it runs like a bag of spanners! Sounds awful!
So hopefully that won't be the case when I get the Toureg pipe on. Fingers crossed
If this works I will be absolutely delighted. I really do not fancy stripping the front of the car down!

 

@ Magnus32 - If you would be so kind, please post some pictures of your efforts and let us know what issues you run into.

Just out of interest, here's an x-ray image of what's inside the OEM TT vent tube. The dark item is the N79 heater element.

(Image credit A3-Quattro.de)

 

Worst case, I end up putting the Toureg breather on ebay and getting a few quid back that I paid for it and getting in to my friends workshop one weekend and rolling my sleeves up for a big old job of taking off the inlet manifold.

Audi specialist just got back to me, quoted £850 for them to do it. No thanks!

I will be sure to post pictures a long the way, and get my report back on here. If all goes to plan with deliveries, I should be attempting this on Wednesday. So I'll be back to let you know how I got on. I'll let it run, then take it up to the workshop and have the codes deleted, and pray they don't come back.

If this works, you are a genius, and a saviour!

I'm sure I read thread somewhere that V6RUL had done something similar, but I cannot for the life of me find it. Doesn't look like he is active anymore.

 

It you need any reference material, the workshop manuals are listed in the Knowledge Base -

FAQ - Audi TT (8J) Workshop Manuals & Self Study Programs
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1833829

UPDATE - If you look closely at the end of the tube that fits against the valve cover, you'll see NORMA NW 19. Evidently Norma Group is the company that owns the patent on the quick connector. A slightly larger version of this is used on the Secondary Air Pump.

I was looking for any other markings that might give away the OEM manufacturer, but all I could find was SP5 348 MBO which is similar to what's on the back of the Toureg PCV. A bit more digging and it looks like Vierol AG is the OEM manufacturer.

https://www.vierol-shop.de/en/listing/1 ... -50/page-2
Valve, engine block breather
V10-2795

The marking >PA66 GF35< simply refers to the type and composition the of plastic; Polyamide 66, 35% Glass Fibre reinforced.

 

Posting just to subscribe

 

A little heads up, just got a message off the seller on ebay I have bought the Toureg hose from to say it is going to be next Wednsday for delivery now...
So looks like we will have to wait a little longer. Annoying, I hate driving my car with the EML on, although it runs fine on the move, the lumpy idle in stand still traffic drives me nuts.
Will keep journeys to a minimum for now and borrow the misses car where I can. Stay tuned!

 

 

Hello Magnus32 and SwissJetPilot.

I also have the air getting sucked into the rocker cover through that small hole.
It took a while to find :roll:

So I have the split diaphragm inside the rocker cover.

I am very eager to do the toureg modification. I am very happy to modify my engine bay as even a potenial buyer would understand if you actaully told them, but nobody is going to notice.
I do my own mechanic work, but it looks a bit job.

I did notice the photo of the part shown and the part fitted looked different?
The part fitted had a flat disc on top but the photo had a circular value type shape sticking up.
Magnus32 please let me know how its gone , im dying to get the part ordered.

EDIT ,I understand the part number now. Its the underneath that has the valve sticking up and the top is flat.

 

Will update as soon as possible. Still awaiting delivery of the part. I am impatient haha!
I'm not sure it is going to work to be honest, as the diaphragm/valve will be further up the chain, after the hole, and I think blocking the hole might not be a great idea, as I am sure it is there as a pressure releif sort of thing. When I put my finger over the hole, my car runs horribly and wants to cut out. I don't see how it will change much with the swap... BUT.... I am willing to try it out for the low cost and low effort that it is. So fingers crossed! Let's have a look what happens

 

The little hole in the valve cover performs the same purpose as the one located on the top of the Toureg PCV as described in SSP 260 -

"The diaphragm valve ensures a uniform pressure level and good ventilation of the crankcase. It is split into two chambers by a diaphragm. One chamber is connected to the outside air and the other to the intake manifold."

This is why you can feel air coming out of the outside air inlet when the diaphragm fails as air can now pass through the diaphragm resulting in a leak in the system.

As far as I can tell, both the internal valve cover PCV and the external (Toureg) PCV components are all in the same orientation so the functionality should be identical.

But you're right, this concept simply moves everything upstream from the internal valve cover PCV to the top of the intake manifold using the Toureg PCV. However the location shouldn't make any difference as long as the system remains closed and there are no air leaks. Which is why the valve cover outside air inlet hole needs to be sealed if the internal diaphragm has ruptured.

Or at least that's the theory!

 

Ohhhhh, I did not see that hole on the back of the puck of the Toureg valve!! Ok... now I am even more positive.
I cannot bloody wait for this thing to get here and put it to the test for you!

 

We're all looking forward to the outcome too. This could be a great workaround for us 3.2 litre owners when faced with this annoying - and expensive - issue!!

 

I have priced up the VW 022103765A part number £119 inc vat.

Febi Bilstein part number 47564 their part number is around £45.
I am just trying to order one this morning.

I am quite sure it will work.

I would like the VW part but I know that Febi actaully make 1000`s of parts for many manufacturers and it could be the exact same part made by Febi that VW use.

 

@ scot360 - You might try Amazon in the UK -

 

Febi make a lot of OEM parts, so I am not alarmed really.

My local TPS (with discount as I used to work for them) came out at £110 for the VW original, and would of taken 3 days to come in to stock anyway, so to save £60 and wait another 3 days seems reasonable.