I'm wondering what is considered a "safe" amount of power for the engine before we start risking the integrity of the engine?

"Safe" is, basically, what it's been designed for by the engineers, which is its stock figures.

Is it the same engine as higher powered models just built differently or are higher powered factory built engines built with stronger blocks etc.

The TTS has a very similar engine design with a bigger turbo and different/upgraded internal components: cylinder block, valves, different pistons & Injectors, camshafts, etc.

I want more power and the smoother operation (I only mean an extra 70 bhp from stage 1 remap or something, nothing extreme) but I don't want to introduce overly increases failings to the drivetrain that will cost thousands I essentially might jot have needed to spend if I'd went with it an extra 70hp. But is this possible?

Remapping this car to increase its performance will increase the probability of costly failures too. By how much? No one will tell you. There are many people out there who remapped without any issues, and there also some stories when remapping triggered expensive failures of the engine or transmission.

Ny personal opinion - remapping won't turn it into a real TTS or TTRS, so it would only consume my time, money and nerve, and leave me lusting for the TTRS at the end anyway. So, when I was having a regular TT, I didn't change it from stock. Instead I just saved a bit and bought a TTRS a couple of years later.

 

as mentioned above, it's a very personal choice.
This said, if you want to unleash your TT, I would go for a ECU/TCU stage 1, best price/result ratio and worries reduced at the minimum

Is there a guide to tuning and upgrading a mk3 tt? 2016 TFSI S Line Quattro.
I've read about mapping the gearbox and engine etc along with intake and exhaust.
I'm wondering what is considered a "safe" amount of power for the engine before we start risking the integrity of the engine?
Is it the same engine as higher powered models just built differently or are higher powered factory built engines built with stronger blocks etc.
I hope this post doesn't annoy? I've go little experience with newer engines. I've built a few American V8's from the early 90's etc for kit cars and kit converted cars (chevy small blocks and Windsor 351's). But these engines are different animals.
I want more power and the smoother operation (I only mean an extra 70 bhp from stage 1 remap or something, nothing extreme) but I don't want to introduce overly increases failings to the drivetrain that will cost thousands I essentially might jot have needed to spend if I'd went with it an extra 70hp. But is this possible?
I hope you're all well and staying safe.
Regards
Marty

 

...
I'm wondering what is considered a "safe" amount of power for the engine before we start risking the integrity of the engine?
... I essentially might jot have needed to spend if I'd went with it an extra 70hp. But is this possible?

If you think about the stress put on an engine, a lot has to do with individual driving style, if you regularly thrash a car and do standing 1/4 miles you can expect premature wear and shorter lifespan of components.
It's not so much about peak power (you won't be driving at full throttle for hours on end) but torque through the drivetrain, so if that 70bhp extra equates to 30% more torque in the mid-range then that's the extra force all those bushings, bearings, gearbox, clutches etc have to cope with.
If you rarely use that extra then there's plenty of margin in the OEM components, you need to see an example torque plot for the remap you are looking at, then judge from there.

 

I have an 8s tts with stage 2 ecu tune, tcu tune, intercooler, trans cooler ect. Tunes were put on at 18k miles and coming up on 50k miles, the only issues I've had were heat related. I regularly track the car and drive it beyond what it was designed for, however the car has handled everything very well. I had to replace the transmission due to improper cooling (user error) which caused the expanded hot trans internals to not mate properly once it cooled and contracted. With the Raceline trans cooler that shouldn't happen again. Keep in mind that when you increase power you're going to have to upgrade other parts such as brakes to keep up with those power gains. My advice would be go stage 1 ecu with the tcu tune as well and keep an eye out for anything that might not be able to handle that power ie cooling system and brakes. Cooling only becomes an issue after about 20 min of intense track driving, never had any problems on the street. Hopefully this helps and enjoy your new TT!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

That's an impressive increase in power if Revo's figures are to be believed. Having that increase if you're not running quattro doesn't seem like fun though. You'll be wheel spinning all over the shop.

 

I'm one of the first in the world that has a hacked ECU with a exploit that is running custom code running an off the shelf tune on the TT. If you want to do this too, i can link you to the open source SIMOS18 community. Heres my power estimates: 330hp and 502nm on stock IS20. Using a VCP clone hacked TCU tune from ebay, which makes launch control surprisingly quicker!

Don't believe anyone who says you'll get wheelspin, this is a quattro car, unless its wet of course.

Estimates using dragy:

0-100kmh in 3.7 seconds (might even be lower on PS4's i'm on shitty 4 season tires)
100-200kmh in 9.8 seconds

The V-MAX of the car is also deleted, i've done 290kmh easily (around 278kmh on GPS)

I will be going hybrid big turbo too, and the tune i'm going with will be EQT.

The same engine of ours exists in the GTI's etc (TT 230hp), so tuning is the same as that whole MQB platform.

I've driven over 10k km's safely, and NO downpipe upgrade or intercooler! I drive the car hard daily, i can post videos of Dragy and post pics etc. Tune the car, the MQB platform is one of the best for tuning. But; tuning most likely will depend on how you have serviced your car, so make sure to properly service your haldex and DQ250 and engine more often since there will way more load those bad boys.

 

One of the secrets to engine longevity (in any car, not just modified) is to ensure that the oil is up to temperature before utilising the power. Many people watch the coolant temperature and then think the engine is up to temperature. It's not. In the TT, where you can monitor the oil temperature, many would be surprised at how long it takes the oil to get warm.

My turbocharged MX5 runs over twice it's factory power output with no issues and no internal modifications. I always keep the revs below 3000 RPM until the oil is up to temperature before trying to keep it in a straight line!

With modified engines I would always change the oil before manufacturers recommendations.

 

well, my feeling is almost opposite to yours: never seen a car warming-up the oil so rapidly like TT's (mainly because they don't have an oil cooler, they just exchange with cooling liquid), even in winter

 

Very true, the oil gets warm super quick over here too even though i live in NL where its rainy most of the time. Thats why i replace my engine oil every 3-4K.. I will be doing a ebay oil cooler soon though, for track days at Zandvoort/Nurburgring

 

Interesting how people are experiencing differences in oil warm-up times. In my car, using only medium revs and and without loading the engine, it can be four or five miles before I'm seeing any worthwhile oil temp.

Conversely, there a route near my house which involves climbing a long steep hill. Even using low revs, that route will have my oil up to temp within one mile. The engine is working harder but not perceptibly so.

It's good that we have the option to monitor oil temp.