The best gains is change exhaust full system to 3" including the downpipe. 200cell sports cat is ok. No point changing downpipe and leaving the rest stock.

 

ok thanks got it.

 

Have you fitted a oversized TIP ( turbo intake pipe ) if not everything else is a waste of time ( imo )

 

Will be fitting it, yea, that is the only part for sure now, picked the Forge one (I can't find Badger here)
That was the 2nd part of 1st question: if changing the TIP, is a Wak-box enough? or should I go for a cone filter such as the P-Flo?

 

2.5"-3" downpipe, ideally all the way.

I use 2.5" downpipe (top mounted gt3071) 200cpi race cat, making well over 390hp

 

cool, not planning monster HPs, just to maximize my stage 1.
And not sure what is worth doing.

 

If your doing the exhaust do the tip aswell you should feel car perform better.

 

Do the TIP first and see how you feel, you may not feel the need to change much more.

 

Just TIP and keep stock box? or a cone filter and if yes which is best bang for the money?

 

Oversized TIP first (I don't think Forge is 80mm Oversized TIP, just silicon) - Creations-Motorsport copied Badger 5 TIPs and Badger5 posts internationally (I think so)

Then Air Filter - I have tried S2000 paper / Cosworth S2000 fabric but have a Proram - it looks smaller but the surface area is bigger and it is Nano-fibre so doesn;'t have a metal frame taking up the surface area.

A 225 stock cat back system is okay for 300bhp - but a 3 inch downpipe is a massive improvement. (I have had ebay (£170) and pipewerx (£450) - they are both the same fitment, but I hope the sports cat lasts more than 1 MOT on the Pipewerx)

Then FMIC (at least 64mm inlet / outlet and larger than both SMICs otherwise it will generate more IATs)

That's essentially a Stage 2 - so you can get a MAP tweak to give it some more air and fuel

 

Oh,ok, I thought Forge was oversized, will look into Creations_Motorsports and Badger5, thanks for the info.
Ref FMIC, I'll start another thread on that, My engine is APX, no wide-band lambda, not sure if it's safe or I should do a wide-band conversion first ( I read somewhere it involves changing the ECU also)

 

As stated above the stock exhaust system isn't a restriction unless you are running more than 3-350bhp. The stock downpipe is not good at all and changing the downpipe and going to a 200cpi cat will definietly help .
Stock turbo and injectors are good for around 275bhp and if you stick with around 300Lb/ft peak torque you will be getting the most out of the stock parts.

 

Good info, cheers.
It's exactly what I want to do, get the most of stock parts.

So for an oversized TIP, what filter would be ok? or should I just stick with stock box and "wak" it?
I saw posts saying that a wak box is really good, is there a bit difference between a cone filter, say Proram, and a stock box with holes in it (wak style)?

 

A cone filter adds a bit of of noise - a cheap paper S2000 filter will get 250g/s with a 'Rasp' - the ProRam Nanofibre filters are pretty popular nowadays. They don't have a metal framework inside, so are efficient with the surface area...

Avoid oil based filters

 

Thanks.
Do you happen to know how much air (g/s) a stock box and a "wak" box allow?

 

Is more to do with efficiency.. what are your goals?

If you're looking for 270-280 'stage 2'

Look at the Revo recommendations -

1. Air Filter (check waktt / wakwideweb) there's a green cotton filter which people use if they don't want a heat shield and cone.
2. Oversized TIP (B5 are the best, all the others are just clones of his design)
3. FMIC (decent one -welly cooler / toyosports, airtec? - min 64mm inlet & outlet)
4. 3 Inch downpipe and sports cat
5. Yellow powerflex dogbone engine mount bush

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A 80mm TIP will work fine with either filter, the difference between the two is minimal have a play n see what you like.

 

Hi Delta,

you mean filters in stock box?

 

@Wak
was reading Wak's post here Wak box mod, have I done it right?
and I need a confirmation (I'm not a native english speaker), is the next phrase sarcasm? or is it for real?

so based on the above, dont bother with a Wakbox just stick a panel filter in the stock box cos they work! or go get a neuspeed open cone with its Heat Shield for £180 squids cos that heat shield is worth every penny and going to keep the cone icy cool! :roll:

it looks like sarcasm to me, but thanks for clearing this out.
I've shortlisted a wak-box and a Neusepped P-Flo and I don't know if Wak is loughing at their shield, if it's worth the money or not...

 

A panel filter upgrade in a stock box is a complete waste of time/money.

Do a Wak box mod with a panel filter for best Improvement with keeping it stealthy.

Get an open cone with a velocity stack and 3” tip for best intake improvement but any good open cone like a neuspeed pflow will work well.

DO NOT go for any enclosed filters mostly terrible.

 

I meant cone or drop in filter after market or standard all will do basically the same job, i went with a cone filter and home made heatshield longer and taller so the bonnet acts as a lid, as i did'nt like the racket/noise that the drilled air box made, filtering aside intercoor/s heat soak is a bigger issue so you may want to consider a front mount intercooler or water injection for cooling, this tuning game is a rabbit hole that'll spend your money fast

 

yea definitely, I would do all that can be done if I wasn't budget constrained...love the car...
The FMIC is something I'll do when and if I'll change the internals and get a better turbo, but for this I need to find for sure what is bugging me: should I also do a wide-lambda conversion or not (APX has only narrow)

 

I've decided to go with the Badger 5, but there's some fitting warnings on their site.
Has someone fitted it on LHD APX with ESP? are there any challanges?

 

Personally I don’t think so or what it will add is negligible.
I.E. Returns for the effort or cost are not worth it imo, but they can make for good support to a setup and look good.

 

Personally I don’t think so or what it will add is negligible.
I.E. Returns for the effort or cost are not worth it imo, but they can make for good support to a setup and look good.

Ok, there's so much talk on hot air, but I've seen no numbers / graphs with or without heatshield and I'm not clear about if they seal well against the hood or not.

I've seen your article on cold induction.
What are you running now on your TT MK1 if you still have one?

 

I’m running an open cone k&n dry filter with a skunk2 velocity stack.
No heat shield I still have the cold air ducting to the wing area which again is a lot of effort for minimal gain but it all helps.

 

I’m running an open cone k&n dry filter with a skunk2 velocity stack.
No heat shield I still have the cold air ducting to the wing area which again is a lot of effort for minimal gain but it all helps.

Ok, great, thanks

 

The advantage of a heat shield is it becomes a stable bracket for the MAF, adding a downpipe and all this extra will want a MAP tweaik, otherwise you wont see much benefit

 

Yea, I think I'll limit myself to TIP and P-flo filter for the moment, would keep the exhaust part for Stage2.
Gonna use some of the money for changing the anti-roll bars, reduce understeer, I'll start a new thread for this.

 

Just remembered about this tip: 1.8T Intake Kit for 225hp Audi S3, Audi TT, Seat Cupra R

Has anyone used it? not the chinese look-alike.
Unclear if it would offer the same flow as a Badger5, for me it works out at the same money with shipping, so which one would you guys get?

 

What about eliminating the two side by side cats and replacing with straight pipes. Is that equivalent (stock downpipe with no cats) to a 3” downpipe with high flow cat? I’m assuming it will trigger a cel, even with a O2 sensor spacer, but that cel shouldn’t impact fuel to air mixture, only that it doesn’t see the cat.

 

No, it's the down pipe that's the restriction.
I have a 3" down pipe to custom 2.5" straight through cat back with the two original cats cut back and fitted into 3" pipe work.
I can swap the 2 original cats for a single sport cat easily and there was very little difference (i have both set ups on V clamps)

 

Do you have a pic of the set up? Wouldn’t the 2.5” straight straight thru cat back be providing the same restriction as the two gutted stock cats?

 

Stock cats are not gutted, all internals still good. I tested the single 200 cel sport cat against the two standard 400 cel cats and no noticeable difference apart from the 2 standard were a bit quieter. 2.5" is fine for my mods. BHP calculated from MAF readings came to 281.
Cats

 

That’s awesome! I plan to have two sets of y pipes: stock with cats and aftermarket with gutted cats for “track days”. I already have a stock ECU and modded ECU to swap out for “track days”

 

Looks like google created a second account for me, oops. In any case, that y pipe from Exhaust Distribution was super cheap. I will gut out the catalytic material to improve flow. I know that the stock downpipe is a flow restrictor, but surely I will get better flow with the cat material drilled out, and chiseled away? Also, does anyone know if the stock downpipe has catalytic material built into the section that looks like at cat/muffler, or is that just flex (see pic with circled section)

 

That's just a flexi joint

 

Cool, thanks for confirming!