This is the motor oil I will be using now that my motor has been rebuilt.

 

I would use the ESP x3 0W40 instead.

It's the only oil out there* that meets both VAG 511.00 and Dexos specs. 511.00 is basically an augmented 507.00, specified for use in the more recent/current RS6. (507.00 itself is a lower-SAPS version of 502.00, which is what the original oil spec is for cars in Can/US--507.00 is also but 502.00 oils are far more common).

This way you're using an oil that still meets a similar VAG spec. and meets Dexos for minimising/mitigating LSPI. Plus it's a 0-40 instead of 5-30.

*This is speaking of oils/brands commonly seen in North America. However even that said, though the X3 is shown on the Mobil.ca, I have never seen any Canadian retailer selling it. You have to buy it in the US, AutoZone being the best place since you can get it nice and cheap with their always-running oil & filter combo/promo.

TBH, LSPI has never really been that big a concern or issue on the VAG 2.0T engines. Hence why the Dexos spec is [primarily] for GM cars; LSPI is also known to be a big factor in Ford Ecoboost engines IIRC, among others. DI carbon build-up OTOH is basically the opposite. A Ford DI/Ecoboost engine run for like 60-80k miles will have the same amount of carbon as a VAG one run for like 10k miles lol. It's quite a difference.

Anyway entirely up to you what you use but from what I've researched it seems (to me) like the ESP X3 is the "best" oil to use, with the only problem being gotta go to the US to get it. I've still got several 5L bottles of Pennzoil Platinum and Castrol Edge in my "stock" of oil lol; but once it nears its end, I'll be switching to the ESP X3 I think. I have to change oil on 3 vehicles so probably within a year or two what I have now will be exhausted.

 

To my understanding API SP > Dexos1 Gen2 (GM) > API SN+ (all formulated to prevent LSPI)
Looking at the back of a bottle of Pennzoil Platinum Euro 0W-40 shows that it indeed meets the API SP spec so I guess I'm covered.

Note: the pic you posted of Mobil 1 EPS says it only meets API SN (not +)

Here is an old Blackstone report. Comments refer to the fact I added Liqui Moly Ceratec (reason for increased Moly and Boron). Other than a lower than average calcium level I don't see anything that would demonstrate an oil has a lower LSPI potential. Guess you have to trust the API rating?

 

What Liqui Moly additive did you add? The moly is high at 350, but the calcium is still above 2000, to my understanding we want our oils to be below 1800.

I will be doing a Blackstone analysis with a virgin sample and a used sample at around 5000km and I won't be using any additional additives. Instead, I'll be changing filters every 2500km until a year has passed from the complete build.

I'm interested in where this rabbit hole will take me. From all of the research I've done, the M1 ESP euro 5w30 is the best oil at my disposal for the time being, and at $59.99 for a 5qt jug, it's decently priced.

 

What Liqui Moly additive did you add?

Liqui Moly Ceratec.
Quote: “High-tech ceramic wear protection “ In this case Ceramic = Boron nitride (+ Molybdenum disulfide, both wear inhibitors). One of the few additives that 'might' not be snake oil. Unfortunately Ceratec has significantly gone up in price over the last couple of years.

Ceratec

Product page for Liqui Moly Ceratec

www.liquimolytt.com

Additional note(s):

From what I've read, LSPI mostly happens (as the name suggests) at low speed / low RPM. The simplest way to prevent LSPI is to avoid 'lugging' your engine.

Calcium appears to increase the chance of LSPI
Magnesium appears to decrease the chance of LSPI.
Both are detergents and are added to prevent sludge build-up. Calcium works better to neutralize acids but magnesium isn't depleted as quickly so your oil can maintain a high TBN longer.

I think the ratio of magnesium to calcium is more important than the absolute level of calcium since the addition / substitution of magnesium can be used to offset calcium's negative effects. This may be true for other additives as well. Keeping calcium below 1800 might make sense if there are no other additives but may not hold true with a complex blend.

In any case, I'm not a Petrochemical Engineer so I'll have to assume that those who are know what they're doing.

API SP / ILSAC GF-6 still appear to be the latest spec addressing LSPI so that's what I'd use if available.

For all things oil-related, See: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/

 

For anyone not familiar with LSPI -

LOW-SPEED PRE-IGNITION: What is it and how to prevent ?

Poor lubricant selection leads to a wide range of engine performance issues. One of them is low-speed pre-ignition (LSPI). Also termed stochastic pre-ignition (SPI) or super-knock, LSPI occurs in modern turbocharged gasoline direct injection technology. This phenomenon may result in fatal engine damage when you least expect it.

Link here -

Low-Speed Pre-Ignition: What Is It And How To Prevent It? - Valvoline™ Global Europe - EN

Poor lubricant selection leads to a wide range of engine performance issues. One of them is low-speed pre-ignition (LSPI). Also termed stochastic pre-ignition (SPI)...

www.valvolineglobal.com

 

I have a similar approach as @FNChaos on my 2.0T engines. Don't lug the engine, make sure you have good fuel and put whatever oil you want in it.

 

I picked up two jugs from my local Canadian Tire. Here are the specs.

1.qt Bottle = $19.99 CAD
5.qt Jug = $59.99 CAD

I'm looking forward to trying this oil out, and even though it's a 5w30, it's heavy chemistry allows it to behave like a 40 weight.

 

These are factory specs though. You have a built motor, all these things that are great for a stock motor / emisssions etc..

You should be looking for an oil that provides great anti-wear and high heat protection especially since you will be lapping it / autocross etc... Some people change viscosity as well based on their clearances.

 

We (the shop and I) spoke about this briefly and we decided that the best course of action would be to use a race oil for race days. But we will cross that bridge when we get there.

 

Dumb question, but will this project require a "break in" oil for the first x-number of miles, or is that a thing..?

 

Great question. We did run a break in oil for the bottom end, but I'm running OEM cams with new hardware so I imagine we may do that again.....using DRIVEN break in oil. At this point I'm letting the shop deal with it as I just pay the bills.

 

We used the Mobile 1 oil which is still very clean when observing it after a few days driving.

The motor is loud, the springs are noticeably louder and the exhaust system is much louder and deeper.

I'll be running oil changes every 4 months regardless of mileage for the first year, depending if I'm deployed or have gone racing.

There's alot of different opinions on what to do for a day of auto slalom. Some say run the same oil with MOS2 and flush afterwards for fresh oil.

Some say run a high temp high antiwear oil like Motul 300 for the day as LSPI wouldn't be a factor while tracking.

The car is exactly where it needs to be in regards to boost, power curve, speed and gearing when dropped into sport mode.

I'll provide feedback on the Mobil 1 oil as the week's go by.

Feedback is always welcome.

 

Interesting, I'd just run normal oil change intervals. I run Motul 300v Competition and change it once a year or 5000km whichever comes first.

 

I know your motors built, so you keep the same oil in after a track day? I've read on another forum the some guys do do that, and just change the oil filter.

That being said, a day of lapping is going to be noticeably harder on the car than a handful of rounds of autocross.

 

I don't track the car anymore but it would change after a hard track day or maybe a couple if I was taking it easy. Also, if this is a daily, 99% of the time you aren't driving it hard so it doesn't need anything special.

My oil generally stays clear, when it gets brown I change it.

When it comes down to it, just keep on top of your oil changes and I don't think you'll go wrong with Mobil 1 or any of the usual suspects (Motul,LiquiMoly etc). I beat the crap out of my 400whp Golf R running Motul 8100 with no issues, changed every 7500km as it was a daily for the most part.