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Knocking Sound - Steering Rack?

43K views 103 replies 30 participants last post by  Rustbucket  
#1 ·
Morning all,

One month into TT ownership and already starting to have some unfortunate issues [smiley=bigcry.gif]

Perhaps the most annoying, I have a grinding / knocking sound coming from what sounds like the front of the car, mostly when reversing or turning sharp.

I took it to a local inde and had the following work carried out;

"Supply and fit new nearside front and offside front upper suspension mounts and bearings.
Supply and fit new offside front anti-roll bar link (original anti roll bar link upper ball joint protective rubber gaiter split)"

Unfortunately the knocking noise is still there, the garage has suggested that the next thing to try / eliminate is the steering rack - but they cannot guarantee this is the fault and the work is non-refundable (as was the above work) if it doesn't rectify it.

He said the costs are four figures+ so it's certainly not something I want to get done if there isn't a guarantee that it will fix it.

Is there any way I can be sure it's the rack, or can anyone else offer advice on what else it could be?

My DIY skills are lacking to say the least so my option is only a garage rather than attempting repairs myself!

Also getting intermittent warnings lights on the dash :roll: Ordered a diagnostic tool which will hopefully arrive tomorrow and another thread will be posted !
 
#4 ·
JB89 said:
Certainly not what I needed !

Yes mate, I'd say it's near identical to that. However, if I just sit in the car stationery and turn the wheel as they are I get very little sound, I only really get the problem if I'm moving at slower speeds too.
Hmmm.

When I first heard (and panic-Googled) it I thought it was suspension bushes but my car doesn't seem old enough or have enough miles on it to have worn bushes. Then I found those clips which are exactly what I can hear.

I won't be out in mine again until the weekend. I'll see if it does it when stationary as well as at low speeds.
 
#6 ·
BillTheButcher said:
Not what you want from a new car. [smiley=bigcry.gif]

I picked up an 8J TTRS last weekend and there's a slight knocking sound at parking speeds. I found these clips when I was searching yesterday. Does yours sound anything like this?


That first video is mine;
Still haven't had a chance to get it properly looked at yet, but just had a full service and MOT at Audi last week and they haven't picked it up. Top mounts and bearings will be the first to look at; like JB89's mechanic said, it's better to do the cheaper fixes first before going for the super expensive rack fix and doesn't fix the problem.
 
#8 ·
BillTheButcher said:
Not what you want from a new car. [smiley=bigcry.gif]

I picked up an 8J TTRS last weekend and there's a slight knocking sound at parking speeds. I found these clips when I was searching yesterday. Does yours sound anything like this?


I have the exact same problem.

Before I recently had my 30mm lowering springs fitted I only noticed it slightly and when reversing at low speeds and turning.

Now I've had the springs fitted its much louder and when stopped like in the videos and do lock to lock slowly it makes the exact sound. Was thinking steering rack myself but ill be taking it in this Saturday for a better Idea.
 
#10 ·
mickee92 said:
I have the exact same problem.

Before I recently had my 30mm lowering springs fitted I only noticed it slightly and when reversing at low speeds and turning.

Now I've had the springs fitted its much louder and when stopped like in the videos and do lock to lock slowly it makes the exact sound. Was thinking steering rack myself but ill be taking it in this Saturday for a better Idea.
The fact that it is louder once the lowering springs have been fitted really points towards the top mounts and bearings I think. But am no expert! Let us know what you find out!
 
#11 ·
AndreiV93 said:
mickee92 said:
I have the exact same problem.

Before I recently had my 30mm lowering springs fitted I only noticed it slightly and when reversing at low speeds and turning.

Now I've had the springs fitted its much louder and when stopped like in the videos and do lock to lock slowly it makes the exact sound. Was thinking steering rack myself but ill be taking it in this Saturday for a better Idea.
The fact that it is louder once the lowering springs have been fitted really points towards the top mounts and bearings I think. But am no expert! Let us know what you find out!
I had the mounts and bearings replaced whilst putting the springs on and I would expect them to creak more than anything?
 
#13 ·
I'd advice anyone with a knock/grind at the front checking your subframe for signs first!!

Well known fault on VAG platform, stretch bolts in the frame stretch overtime allowing the frame/wishbone rear housing to shift and move around. Bloke at work had horrid noises from his 8P S3.

Quick and cheaper would be trying brand new bolts for frame & rack.

I fitted a tyrol subframe locking kit on my TTS and this has stiffened the front end with other suspension additions, however fast forward 9 months, due to not buying new rack bolts and when fitting, we ended up dropping the entire frame not just loosing, to do the rear dog bone bush.
I had a creak becoming louder and louder from just on sharpest lock at very low speeds, that the ended up at any steering input under 20mph and on big bumps like rolling up a drop curb.

Dropped the frame just this month when fitted uprated clutch so took this opportunity to fit all new bolts throughout.
Noise is gone completely.

I'd highly recommend for £50 worth of bolts you can easily replace yourself before even thinking about £1000+ rack replacement. :eek:
 
#16 ·
Well I had my car in and on the lift and nothing obvious. Not the steering rack than god!!

Checked all bolts to see if any where loose but all seem ok.

Now I have had new top mounts and bearings on when the springs were put on so maybe they could be making a creaking noise? More prominent when stationary and going lock to lock and slightly when manoeuvring even when not turning the wheel and going up kerbs.

These subframe collar kits might be the next addition as there's nothing else that is visibly wrong. Is there a part number for them or where to get?
 
#17 ·
mickee92 said:
These subframe collar kits might be the next addition as there's nothing else that is visibly wrong. Is there a part number for them or where to get?
TyrolSport sells them machined from brass, and 034 motorsports sells them in stainless. The brass may be a better choice than stainless steel in regards to metallic interaction with the aluminium subframe. Galvanic corrosion is no good.
 
#18 ·
mickee92 said:
Well I had my car in and on the lift and nothing obvious. Not the steering rack than god!!

Checked all bolts to see if any where loose but all seem ok.

Now I have had new top mounts and bearings on when the springs were put on so maybe they could be making a creaking noise? More prominent when stationary and going lock to lock and slightly when manoeuvring even when not turning the wheel and going up kerbs.

These subframe collar kits might be the next addition as there's nothing else that is visibly wrong. Is there a part number for them or where to get?
Glad to hear it's not the rack! I think that would be the first thing Audi would replace :lol:
 
#19 ·
Agreed! Good news it's not the rack.

Possibly a stupid question, what diagnostics do you do to confirm it's not the rack? More intrigued as to why the local inde I used couldn't confirm for sure whether it is the rack or not!

If someone tries the subframe fix before I get round to doing it please let us know how it goes!
 
#21 ·
Not sure what the diagnosis was to rule out steering rack but the car doesn't:

Drift in any direction
No loose feeling in the steering
Steering doesn't pull
No vibration in steering

Some common signs I suppose ^^ which could make sense if there is a knock when turning.

The indie who does the work is genuine and unlike some who would see ££££ and not rule out the rack.
The knock obviously got worse with the car lowered some obviously more load = bigger knock. Also the knock is also apparent when im going up a slight curb.
Ideally would be nice to have someone with the same fault (which there seems to be a few of) have theres solved as its not nice spending money to narrow down to eventually fixing the cause.
 
#22 ·
mickee92 said:
Well I had my car in and on the lift and nothing obvious. Not the steering rack than god!!

Checked all bolts to see if any where loose but all seem ok.

Now I have had new top mounts and bearings on when the springs were put on so maybe they could be making a creaking noise? More prominent when stationary and going lock to lock and slightly when manoeuvring even when not turning the wheel and going up kerbs.

These subframe collar kits might be the next addition as there's nothing else that is visibly wrong. Is there a part number for them or where to get?
Bolts won't appear to be loose, but they are a 1 use only stretch bolt to a torque plus 90 degrees.
As I wrote before, highly recommend changing these! They stretch over time and will allow the frame to move.
Should be x6 main frame bolts (m12? with 18mm heads), 4 in the rack, 4 in the wishbone bush (m10? with 16mm heads) and if you wanted x4 (m8, 13mm head) antiroll bar bush brackets. All of those (minus the ARB bolts) cost me sub £50 from TPS trade account, if you're worried about spending money that may not fix the issue but I can't see it being much else with what you've replaced.
If you reread my previous post mine was exactly the same, even with the kit but when I hadn't replaced everyone of the bolts mentioned above. More noticeable at low speeds and drop curbs.
If you wanted a subframe locking kit, I personally went Tyrol as the above mentioned issues and seen how well designed they were first hand. I ordered direct from them: http://www.tyrolsport.com/suspension/ch ... 2-audi-tt/
 
#23 ·
Barr_end said:
Bolts won't appear to be loose, but they are a 1 use only stretch bolt to a torque plus 90 degrees.
As I wrote before, highly recommend changing these! They stretch over time and will allow the frame to move.
Should be x6 main frame bolts (m12? with 18mm heads), 4 in the rack, 4 in the wishbone bush (m10? with 16mm heads) and if you wanted x4 (m8, 13mm head) antiroll bar bush brackets. All of those (minus the ARB bolts) cost me sub £50 from TPS trade account, if you're worried about spending money that may not fix the issue but I can't see it being much else with what you've replaced.
If you reread my previous post mine was exactly the same, even with the kit but when I hadn't replaced everyone of the bolts mentioned above. More noticeable at low speeds and drop curbs.
If you wanted a subframe locking kit, I personally went Tyrol as the above mentioned issues and seen how well designed they were first hand. I ordered direct from them: http://www.tyrolsport.com/suspension/ch ... 2-audi-tt/
Sorry I just looked straight at the link for the kit and saw £170+ for it and was reluctant to get that straight away. £50ish for the bolts etc will be worth it then as I've had the front subframe off 3-5times recently for work on the centre prop, manifolds and other stuff. Cheers.
 
#24 ·
my steering wheel is having some knock to it, only when it's cold. The steering wheel is traveling like, in steps or something, can't describe it, but it feels as it's not smooth at all, . The motion itself is like turning the rack-wheel of a catapult, in clicks, it pushes back:

Image


I think it might be the steering rack motor as I already changed the cable loom. Could it be something in the drivetrain itself? Or the steering column? After about 15 minutes of driving it goes away. A video of the problem:

 
#25 ·
grantlack said:
mickee92 said:
These subframe collar kits might be the next addition as there's nothing else that is visibly wrong. Is there a part number for them or where to get?
TyrolSport sells them machined from brass, and 034 motorsports sells them in stainless. The brass may be a better choice than stainless steel in regards to metallic interaction with the aluminium subframe. Galvanic corrosion is no good.
Correct.

The problem with steering knocks is there's a lot of moving parts in the steering chain. I'd be looking at bush wear first.
 
#26 ·
Roller Skate said:
grantlack said:
mickee92 said:
These subframe collar kits might be the next addition as there's nothing else that is visibly wrong. Is there a part number for them or where to get?
TyrolSport sells them machined from brass, and 034 motorsports sells them in stainless. The brass may be a better choice than stainless steel in regards to metallic interaction with the aluminium subframe. Galvanic corrosion is no good.
Correct.

The problem with steering knocks is there's a lot of moving parts in the steering chain. I'd be looking at bush wear first.
I believe this is where the investigation will start with mine. There was a note in the service report from January this year that said the rear ARB bushes were slightly split but it wasn't serious enough to warrant an advisory note on the MOT done in July. If this is the case the dealer has agreed to foot the bill since worn bushes are classed as wear and tear and as such won't be covered by the warranty.