Sorry I just looked straight at the link for the kit and saw £170+ for it and was reluctant to get that straight away. £50ish for the bolts etc will be worth it then as I've had the front subframe off 3-5times recently for work on the centre prop, manifolds and other stuff. Cheers.

Bloody hell no wonder you have noise if those bolts have been reused that many times! Lucky none have sheared heads off with that amount of use haha :lol:
What torques have you been redoing them to?
Most definitely get yourself some fresh ones if you know the frame now isn't going to come off for a while and I bet the noise will be silenced.

 

I'll report back when I drive it again at the weekend.

Mine does it at low speeds as well as when stationary. It's booked in to be looked at this weekend.

I picked my car up from the garage this morning. They could hear the noise that I mentioned but they couldn't find anything that needed replacing or fixing. It's definitely not the steering rack. Their best guess is that it's slightly worn ARB bushes but not worn enough to justify replacing them. Their advice is to keep an eye (and ear) on it and go back to them if it gets any worse.

I'm glad that there's nothing seriously wrong but it's also frustrating that there's nothing that can be fixed.

 

Thanks for the update. Mine does this when reversing. Drives fine otherwise.

 

I'll report back when I drive it again at the weekend.

Mine does it at low speeds as well as when stationary. It's booked in to be looked at this weekend.

I picked my car up from the garage this morning. They could hear the noise that I mentioned but they couldn't find anything that needed replacing or fixing. It's definitely not the steering rack. Their best guess is that it's slightly worn ARB bushes but not worn enough to justify replacing them. Their advice is to keep an eye (and ear) on it and go back to them if it gets any worse.

I'm glad that there's nothing seriously wrong but it's also frustrating that there's nothing that can be fixed.

Thanks for the update. Mine does this when reversing. Drives fine otherwise.

Last time I'm going to try typing it :lol:
Subframe bolts!
It's well known and documented about the stretch of these bolts across the vag cars, allowing the subframe to move (sometimes fractionally - sometimes a lot) causing creaking that can stay as that or worsen to knocking.
For the sake of undoing and torqueing 6 or 10 or 14 bolts (subframe + rack + ARB) at around £50 its massively worth trying at the very least.
But as I have wrote in this thread, I have had the exact same issue and it has been solved.

 

I'm glad yours was sorted but, as I said, they didn't find anything wrong on mine. They checked the rack and the ARB with the car on the ramp. If the subframe bolt issue is well-known and documented then they will have known about it.

 

I'm glad yours was sorted but, as I said, they didn't find anything wrong on mine. They checked the rack and the ARB with the car on the ramp. If the subframe bolt issue is well-known and documented then they will have known about it.

Only so many times you can bang your head against a brick wall :lol:
Believing that any mechanic knows everything to do with any car seems madness to me.
Even specialist garages won't know everything, even if they are massively knowledgeable firm, which your personal mechanic/garage probably is, the will still be a fault they've never seen or had to research.

You can't find a fault with a stretched stretch bolt, It won't have any appearance or be "untorqued" (which what is the torque figure, when its spec'd XXX ft-lbs + 90 degree turn..) Unless you're bothering to take it out and check the TPI count and/or shank length, very very accurately. If they had of done that (which obviously you wouldn't with the cost of the bolts or without the knowledge about the issue) they would definitely know that they'd need to replace the one use only stretch bolt.

You seem desperate for a fix with your previous reply, which I'm not surprised with as its massive irritating, yet aren't willing to take any advice, when its been proven to work.

This is only using VW, not audi, vag, etc... Plenty of information amongst loads of threads:

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=vw+su ... fW8gegy6BI

https://www.google.co.uk/search?rls=com ... Hbo2O67-90

Please just use some of the links on the 1st pages of that search, you'll see what I'm talking a.bout, maybe you won't make a comment, questioning other peoples knowledge who might actually know something..
There's shit loads more, as blokes S3 at work before I even had purchased TT was exactly the same. Well his creak turned into clunking. But he's anal, he researched it so much, with a little of my help. There's so much information on this issue.

2 positive results, on 2 cars with that issue. But continue listening to the noise if that's what you'd prefer than trying a £50 and 30 minutes of your own time solution, with a ratchet and torque wrench.

 

Does anyone have a part number list for the sub frame bolts that require changing? I have this noise and after changing the drop links / top mounts and the car not having any advisories on the MOT last week - It must be this that is the cause.

Is it a simple driveway job with the car on axel stands and a breaker bar and torque wrench?

Thanks

 

I'm glad yours was sorted but, as I said, they didn't find anything wrong on mine. They checked the rack and the ARB with the car on the ramp. If the subframe bolt issue is well-known and documented then they will have known about it.

Only so many times you can bang your head against a brick wall :lol:
Believing that any mechanic knows everything to do with any car seems madness to me.
Even specialist garages won't know everything, even if they are massively knowledgeable firm, which your personal mechanic/garage probably is, the will still be a fault they've never seen or had to research.

Where did I say that I believe any mechanic knows everything to do with any car? The garage that I took it to is a VAG specialist; the owner's daily driver is an 8J TTRS. I believe that he would know about this issue (and if it's what's wrong with my car) since, as you've demonstrated, it's well-known and well-documented. It's not my personal garage. I've never been there before. It's local to where I bought the car.

You seem desperate for a fix with your previous reply, which I'm not surprised with as its massive irritating, yet aren't willing to take any advice, when its been proven to work.

Obviously I'd like to get it sorted but I'm not desperate: it's a mildly-irritating sound. Why do you think I'm unwilling to take advice? I'm more than willing to listen to what anyone has to say about this issue.

This is only using VW, not audi, vag, etc... Plenty of information amongst loads of threads:

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=vw+su ... fW8gegy6BI

https://www.google.co.uk/search?rls=com ... Hbo2O67-90

Please just use some of the links on the 1st pages of that search, you'll see what I'm talking a.bout, maybe you won't make a comment, questioning other peoples knowledge who might actually know something..

Why the attitude? I'm not questioning your or anyone else's knowledge about this. I'm just saying that maybe what you're suggesting isn't what's wrong with my car. It doesn't really sound like any of the clips on those pages.

There's shit loads more, as blokes S3 at work before I even had purchased TT was exactly the same. Well his creak turned into clunking. But he's anal, he researched it so much, with a little of my help. There's so much information on this issue.

2 positive results, on 2 cars with that issue. But continue listening to the noise if that's what you'd prefer than trying a £50 and 30 minutes of your own time solution, with a ratchet and torque wrench.

Again, why the attitude?

 

I'm glad yours was sorted but, as I said, they didn't find anything wrong on mine. They checked the rack and the ARB with the car on the ramp. If the subframe bolt issue is well-known and documented then they will have known about it.

I will be doing what barr_end has suggested as to be fair I've had my subframe off and on quite a bit this year with exhaust/manifolds & centre prop faults so could well explain the knock for me.

Now the videos you shared are the exact same sound I'm hearin when doing the same stationary turning. I've had it looked at and checked over with and nothing to be too obvious.

For the £50 or so to replace the subframe bolts etc then Its no biggy and I will be getting my transmission mount replaced which will need the frame dropped again so I will replace the bolts.

If nobody else sorts this out before me then I will pop back in January when the work has been done.

Hopefully Barr_end is right so he can get a very reluctant thank you :lol: :wink:

 

Hopefully Barr_end is right so he can get a very reluctant thank you :lol: :wink:

:lol:

It won't be a reluctant thank you at all. I appreciate his and everyone else's advice.

 

Is anyone able to confirm this is the correct part number for the sub frame bolts and I just need 2 of them?

N-908-235-01

Thanks

ETA: Where can I get these from as nearest Audi dealer is 55 miles from me?

 

Where did I say that I believe any mechanic knows everything to do with any car? The garage that I took it to is a VAG specialist; the owner's daily driver is an 8J TTRS. I believe that he would know about this issue (and if it's what's wrong with my car) since, as you've demonstrated, it's well-known and well-documented. It's not my personal garage. I've never been there before. It's local to where I bought the car.

Obviously I'd like to get it sorted but I'm not desperate: it's a mildly-irritating sound. Why do you think I'm unwilling to take advice? I'm more than willing to listen to what anyone has to say about this issue.

Why the attitude? I'm not questioning your or anyone else's knowledge about this. I'm just saying that maybe what you're suggesting isn't what's wrong with my car. It doesn't really sound like any of the clips on those pages.

Again, why the attitude?

With how you wrote the reply, I believed you was questioning my knowledge as you were acting as if it wasn't documented or known, and clearly I've dealt with the issue not once, but twice. And with the amount of times of typing and seemingly no-one wanting to listen and try, I assumed people would much rather just live with it.

I have Dyslexia so I can read things wrong, so if you weren't questioning or having the attitude I interrupted it to my replies, then I apologise, if you found my reply conflicting or insulting.
The sound clips linked in this thread I find are poor, I can barely hear them on the laptop and sound odd on my phone.
Personally I'd ignore those as an aid in finding your car.

The 2 main causes of any front end creaking/clunking will be topmounts or subframe, IF it is not the rack as those are the main 3 known 'weak' points on this year of vag cars. I'd start with the cheaper options - bolts then mounts purely down to cost and likeliness of what's causing the issue.

Hence my insistency that one of you guys with the issue would take the chance on the subframe bolts as I think you'd be pleasantly surprised that it will probably fix the irritating noise.

 

Is anyone able to confirm this is the correct part number for the sub frame bolts and I just need 2 of them?

N-908-235-01

Thanks

ETA: Where can I get these from as nearest Audi dealer is 55 miles from me?

I missed this, I'll see if I can ring TPS up and get a copy of my invoice to confirm numbers:
They'll be x2 bolts for the rear of the frame which are different, then x4 bolts for the rest.
x8 bolts for the rack and rear wishbone houses.
TPS would be a good place to get them if there is one any closer.

 

That would be great; if I know the part numbers I can get them ordered and fitted this weekend. Think I would have to get them delivered to me however!

Thanks

 

Where did I say that I believe any mechanic knows everything to do with any car? The garage that I took it to is a VAG specialist; the owner's daily driver is an 8J TTRS. I believe that he would know about this issue (and if it's what's wrong with my car) since, as you've demonstrated, it's well-known and well-documented. It's not my personal garage. I've never been there before. It's local to where I bought the car.

Obviously I'd like to get it sorted but I'm not desperate: it's a mildly-irritating sound. Why do you think I'm unwilling to take advice? I'm more than willing to listen to what anyone has to say about this issue.

Why the attitude? I'm not questioning your or anyone else's knowledge about this. I'm just saying that maybe what you're suggesting isn't what's wrong with my car. It doesn't really sound like any of the clips on those pages.

Again, why the attitude?

With how you wrote the reply, I believed you was questioning my knowledge as you were acting as if it wasn't documented or known, and clearly I've dealt with the issue not once, but twice. And with the amount of times of typing and seemingly no-one wanting to listen and try, I assumed people would much rather just live with it.

I have Dyslexia so I can read things wrong, so if you weren't questioning or having the attitude I interrupted it to my replies, then I apologise, if you found my reply conflicting or insulting.
The sound clips linked in this thread I find are poor, I can barely hear them on the laptop and sound odd on my phone.
Personally I'd ignore those as an aid in finding your car.

The 2 main causes of any front end creaking/clunking will be topmounts or subframe, IF it is not the rack as those are the main 3 known 'weak' points on this year of vag cars. I'd start with the cheaper options - bolts then mounts purely down to cost and likeliness of what's causing the issue.

Hence my insistency that one of you guys with the issue would take the chance on the subframe bolts as I think you'd be pleasantly surprised that it will probably fix the irritating noise.

[smiley=thumbsup.gif]

 

Hi everyone, I also have this knocking problem when I turn the steering wheel at stop. I changed the steering rack and the knocking is still there so I'm also interested by the bolt reference. Thanks

 

That would be great; if I know the part numbers I can get them ordered and fitted this weekend. Think I would have to get them delivered to me however!

Thanks

TPS were very unhelpful this time around, they still have my receipt and haven't processed my refund over the 3 weeks they have had them!
Also were not willing to send me a photocopy or pfd in an email of that either! :evil:
I'll give it a google and see what I can try and find for you.

 

This is a good on-line resource for Audi part numbers.

http://www.oemepc.com/audi

 

Is anyone able to confirm this is the correct part number for the sub frame bolts and I just need 2 of them?

N-908-235-01

Thanks

ETA: Where can I get these from as nearest Audi dealer is 55 miles from me?

I missed this, I'll see if I can ring TPS up and get a copy of my invoice to confirm numbers:
They'll be x2 bolts for the rear of the frame which are different, then x4 bolts for the rest.
x8 bolts for the rack and rear wishbone houses.
TPS would be a good place to get them if there is one any closer.

Hi Barr_end, Can you tell me if the bolts to change are these ? Thank you.

 

Is anyone able to confirm this is the correct part number for the sub frame bolts and I just need 2 of them?

N-908-235-01

Thanks

ETA: Where can I get these from as nearest Audi dealer is 55 miles from me?

I missed this, I'll see if I can ring TPS up and get a copy of my invoice to confirm numbers:
They'll be x2 bolts for the rear of the frame which are different, then x4 bolts for the rest.
x8 bolts for the rack and rear wishbone houses.
TPS would be a good place to get them if there is one any closer.

Hi Barr_end, Can you tell me if the bolts to change are these ? Thank you.

1-2-8 are the main frame bolts on the TT, those are the ones main main frame bolts, however inbetween 2-8 which are also important! Same size as 3-4 the rack bolts. So you want x8 of the bolt spec'd for 3 or 4 as they are the same. 1-2-8 I think are all different lengths so you need those, and whilst there you may aswell do the 'sway bar' ones.
Mine did not have position 7, so unsure what car that picture is from.
I'll try and get a picture of mine in some daylight

 

Hi Barr_end, Can you tell me if the bolts to change are these ? Thank you.

1-2-8 are the main frame bolts on the TT, those are the ones main main frame bolts, however inbetween 2-8 which are also important! Same size as 3-4 the rack bolts. So you want x8 of the bolt spec'd for 3 or 4 as they are the same. 1-2-8 I think are all different lengths so you need those, and whilst there you may aswell do the 'sway bar' ones.
Mine did not have position 7, so unsure what car that picture is from.
I'll try and get a picture of mine in some daylight

This one is a TT subframe.
How many bolts have you changed on your ?

 

This one is a TT subframe.
How many bolts have you changed on your ?

That's a lot closer to it yes. I've copied the image and highlighted all the bolts I replaced, each circle means a single bolt. Also the colour code is the bolts I believe are the same. Highlighted ones that appear they aren't there, those are on the wishbone bush cradle.
So...
- Yellow is x8 bolts - Which are all 16mm heads and same length, for both the steering rack and additionally the smaller bolts for the rear wishbone cradle.
- Green is x4 ARB block bolts - 13mm heads, short m8 bolts.
- Blue x4 main subframe bolts - These are 18mm heads that are fully threaded stretch bolts. Believe these maybe the same lengths as I think I had x4 of one part number on the invoice (which I should be getting back soon)
-Red is x2 main subframe bolts - that look like stretch bolts, have a small amount of shank, then shank length chances diameter multiple times before reaching the thread on the end.

Funnily enough after a long drive and back to the new forest misses car is making an awful clunk/knock and slight creaking. I will get a video and upload it for you all to see if this sounds like your issue. (mine was only creaking, most likely due to locking kit not allowing the frame to move/knock)
I'll be getting my bolts/invoice back from TPS and sorting hers, so I will update how I get on.

 

Got around to changing the main subframe bolts last weekend. (Red ones in the diagram) I also installed spacer shims between the subframe and body (a vw TSB fix for this problem on other shared platform vehicles).

Unfortunately this has made no difference, still get the same noises from the steering and a clunking when coming of the drive in the morning... Checked other sub frame bolts were tight.

So far I have changed the drop links, both strut top mounts and bearings and now the sub frame bolts. Nothing was picked up on MOT testing as it went through with no adviseries, no play in the steering/ ball joints / bushes.

Running out of ideas!

 

Thanks for the update. Mine has been a lot quieter the last couple of times I've used it. :?:

 

Got around to changing the main subframe bolts last weekend. (Red ones in the diagram) I also installed spacer shims between the subframe and body (a vw TSB fix for this problem on other shared platform vehicles).

Unfortunately this has made no difference, still get the same noises from the steering and a clunking when coming of the drive in the morning... Checked other sub frame bolts were tight.

So far I have changed the drop links, both strut top mounts and bearings and now the sub frame bolts. Nothing was picked up on MOT testing as it went through with no adviseries, no play in the steering/ ball joints / bushes.

Running out of ideas!

Would definitely recommend trying the ones highlighted in yellow and blue! Well to be honest ALL of the bolts related to the frame. (those red are by far the most expensive too! £8ish each! Rest a couple of quid if memory serves me)

The yellow ones, were the ones I did not replace when I fitted the subframe locking kit to my car and 9 months down the line I had the noise come up. I replaced x2 of the blue bolts again (x2 blue, x2 red have stainless replacements in the kit which don't stretch), but this time I replaced the yellow and green too.
Noise is completely silenced.