This one is a TT subframe.
How many bolts have you changed on your ?

That's a lot closer to it yes. I've copied the image and highlighted all the bolts I replaced, each circle means a single bolt. Also the colour code is the bolts I believe are the same. Highlighted ones that appear they aren't there, those are on the wishbone bush cradle.
So...
- Yellow is x8 bolts - Which are all 16mm heads and same length, for both the steering rack and additionally the smaller bolts for the rear wishbone cradle.
- Green is x4 ARB block bolts - 13mm heads, short m8 bolts.
- Blue x4 main subframe bolts - These are 18mm heads that are fully threaded stretch bolts. Believe these maybe the same lengths as I think I had x4 of one part number on the invoice (which I should be getting back soon)
-Red is x2 main subframe bolts - that look like stretch bolts, have a small amount of shank, then shank length chances diameter multiple times before reaching the thread on the end.

Funnily enough after a long drive and back to the new forest misses car is making an awful clunk/knock and slight creaking. I will get a video and upload it for you all to see if this sounds like your issue. (mine was only creaking, most likely due to locking kit not allowing the frame to move/knock)
I'll be getting my bolts/invoice back from TPS and sorting hers, so I will update how I get on.

Where do you buy all the bolts ? Thanks.

 

Got around to changing the main subframe bolts last weekend. (Red ones in the diagram) I also installed spacer shims between the subframe and body (a vw TSB fix for this problem on other shared platform vehicles).

Unfortunately this has made no difference, still get the same noises from the steering and a clunking when coming of the drive in the morning... Checked other sub frame bolts were tight.

So far I have changed the drop links, both strut top mounts and bearings and now the sub frame bolts. Nothing was picked up on MOT testing as it went through with no adviseries, no play in the steering/ ball joints / bushes.

Running out of ideas!

Hi, Did you change any other bolts after the 2 of the subframe ? Thanks.

 

I'll be getting my bolts/invoice back from TPS and sorting hers, so I will update how I get on.

Where do you buy all the bolts ? Thanks.

Sorry just had to! TPS or your local dealer is best place.

Been back to TPS and ordered all the bolts for my misses TT,
Will update with part numbers when I dig it out at home and remember which ones are the bolts!

 

Sorry just had to! TPS or your local dealer is best place.

Been back to TPS and ordered all the bolts for my misses TT,
Will update with part numbers when I dig it out at home and remember which ones are the bolts!

I thought I would go to my Audi dealer, but why replace the stock bolts with other stock ones ? Thanks

 

Someone else changed the bolts on the subframe ?

 

Someone else changed the bolts on the subframe ?

I will be in January when I get my engine mounts replaced as the subframe will be dropped again.

If nobody comes back before me with feedback then I will in January.

 

Someone else changed the bolts on the subframe ?

I will be in January when I get my engine mounts replaced as the subframe will be dropped again.

If nobody comes back before me with feedback then I will in January.

Thank you, I appreciate that. Do you have that knocking problem when you turn the steering too ?

 

Yeah exactly like the ones im the videos at the start of the theead.

I've had my subframe off a few times this year and only started since then so seems the most logical solution which we shall see.

 

Got around to changing the main subframe bolts last weekend. (Red ones in the diagram) I also installed spacer shims between the subframe and body (a vw TSB fix for this problem on other shared platform vehicles).

Unfortunately this has made no difference, still get the same noises from the steering and a clunking when coming of the drive in the morning... Checked other sub frame bolts were tight.

So far I have changed the drop links, both strut top mounts and bearings and now the sub frame bolts. Nothing was picked up on MOT testing as it went through with no adviseries, no play in the steering/ ball joints / bushes.

Running out of ideas!

Hi, Did you change any other bolts after the 2 of the subframe ? Thanks.

Hi - no I only changed the large 115mm subframe ones (red in diagram)

I did check the torque and nip up 4 others whilst under there (ones you get to through the wishbone and the ones near the wishbone bush)

When the weather is better I will get back under and check all bolts, or maybe just buy the full set and replace them if the part numbers get posted on here.

 

I've had a knocking for a while - even passed MOT a couple of times! - so decided to try and sort it:
Step 1 - replaced drop links both sides - No improvement
Step 2 - replaced strut top mounts and bearings both sides - No improvement (however discovered a garage which had replaced a broken spring a few years ago had replaced the offside mount in the wrong orientation!!)
Step 3 - had a mate who works at an Audi dealer look at it. Engine off, ignition lock off, rock the steering wheel side to side. This resulted in a distinctly audible clonk/knock and if I placed my hand on the N/S steering rack boot I could definitely feel movement. He commented that the N/S was more likely to fail as it is a longer rod so has more leverage on it. The farm track I live up hasn't helped!
It appears that a new rack is around £500 [smiley=bigcry.gif] and you need a subframe alignment tool (£20 from Amazon) looks like I'm going to be busy over Christmas.

 

Is it a similar noise to that posted in the video in this thread?

If so sounds like it's worth trying the bolts before steering rack!

Not got round to doing mine either, perhaps over the Xmas period but more likely early next year now.

 

Yeah likewise it will be in January when I get round to replacing them too.

I definitely wont be replacing anything to do with the steering rack before trying the bolts!! :lol: [smiley=bomb.gif]

 

I've had a knocking for a while - even passed MOT a couple of times! - so decided to try and sort it:
Step 1 - replaced drop links both sides - No improvement
Step 2 - replaced strut top mounts and bearings both sides - No improvement (however discovered a garage which had replaced a broken spring a few years ago had replaced the offside mount in the wrong orientation!!)
Step 3 - had a mate who works at an Audi dealer look at it. Engine off, ignition lock off, rock the steering wheel side to side. This resulted in a distinctly audible clonk/knock and if I placed my hand on the N/S steering rack boot I could definitely feel movement. He commented that the N/S was more likely to fail as it is a longer rod so has more leverage on it. The farm track I live up hasn't helped!
It appears that a new rack is around £500 [smiley=bigcry.gif] and you need a subframe alignment tool (£20 from Amazon) looks like I'm going to be busy over Christmas.

I changed the steering rack on my TT and the knocking is still there.

I make a video, saying me if the knocking is the same on your TTs:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iZxJaqE ... e=youtu.be
(Thank you all for your answers )

 

Yeah likewise it will be in January when I get round to replacing them too.

I definitely wont be replacing anything to do with the steering rack before trying the bolts!! :lol: [smiley=bomb.gif]

Are you going to buy bolts at your Audi dealer ? I'm asking you because I don't understand why replace the OEM bolts with other OEM bolts unless the bolts have a manufacturing defect that makes them too fragile . Thank you
(merry christmas to all)

 

Yeah likewise it will be in January when I get round to replacing them too.

I definitely wont be replacing anything to do with the steering rack before trying the bolts!! :lol: [smiley=bomb.gif]

Are you going to buy bolts at your Audi dealer ? I'm asking you because I don't understand why replace the OEM bolts with other OEM bolts unless the bolts have a manufacturing defect that makes them too fragile . Thank you
(merry christmas to all)

Was relying on Barr_end to come back with his invoice for all the bolts required but I'll probably just do that and go to audi as long as their not a fortune from them.

Earlier in the thread Barr_end explained that the subframe bolts are a one use only... would kind of make sense if their stretch bolts and make even more sense as I've had my subframe dropped multiple times this year.

You could try the locking kit as recommended below.

Bolts won't appear to be loose, but they are a 1 use only stretch bolt to a torque plus 90 degrees.
As I wrote before, highly recommend changing these! They stretch over time and will allow the frame to move.
Should be x6 main frame bolts (m12? with 18mm heads), 4 in the rack, 4 in the wishbone bush (m10? with 16mm heads) and if you wanted x4 (m8, 13mm head) antiroll bar bush brackets. All of those (minus the ARB bolts) cost me sub £50 from TPS trade account, if you're worried about spending money that may not fix the issue but I can't see it being much else with what you've replaced.
If you reread my previous post mine was exactly the same, even with the kit but when I hadn't replaced everyone of the bolts mentioned above. More noticeable at low speeds and drop curbs.
If you wanted a subframe locking kit, I personally went Tyrol as the above mentioned issues and seen how well designed they were first hand. I ordered direct from them: http://www.tyrolsport.com/suspension/ch ... 2-audi-tt/

 

Was relying on Barr_end to come back with his invoice for all the bolts required but I'll probably just do that and go to audi as long as their not a fortune from them.

Earlier in the thread Barr_end explained that the subframe bolts are a one use only... would kind of make sense if their stretch bolts and make even more sense as I've had my subframe dropped multiple times this year.

You could try the locking kit as recommended below.

Bolts won't appear to be loose, but they are a 1 use only stretch bolt to a torque plus 90 degrees.
As I wrote before, highly recommend changing these! They stretch over time and will allow the frame to move.
Should be x6 main frame bolts (m12? with 18mm heads), 4 in the rack, 4 in the wishbone bush (m10? with 16mm heads) and if you wanted x4 (m8, 13mm head) antiroll bar bush brackets. All of those (minus the ARB bolts) cost me sub £50 from TPS trade account, if you're worried about spending money that may not fix the issue but I can't see it being much else with what you've replaced.
If you reread my previous post mine was exactly the same, even with the kit but when I hadn't replaced everyone of the bolts mentioned above. More noticeable at low speeds and drop curbs.
If you wanted a subframe locking kit, I personally went Tyrol as the above mentioned issues and seen how well designed they were first hand. I ordered direct from them: http://www.tyrolsport.com/suspension/ch ... 2-audi-tt/

Ok, now I understand. I will order the locking kit and keep you informed. Thanks for your help.

 

I WILL UPDATE WITH PART NUMBERS! :roll:
Apologies anyone still waiting on my details on part numbers for those who haven't done as I did and get on the phone/email and hunted them down.
I haven't serviced or replaced the bolts on the misses car, over the Christmas period and have not pulled the box down with the invoice in it. Additionally with a memory like a siv, I also manage not to remember once I reread this thread by the time I've worked throughout the day and got home.

 

I WILL UPDATE WITH PART NUMBERS! :roll:
Apologies anyone still waiting on my details on part numbers for those who haven't done as I did and get on the phone/email and hunted them down.
I haven't serviced or replaced the bolts on the misses car, over the Christmas period and have not pulled the box down with the invoice in it. Additionally with a memory like a siv, I also manage not to remember once I reread this thread by the time I've worked throughout the day and got home.

OI!! You need to stop forgetting about us and this damn invoice! Were more important than your work and personal life :lol:

If you have valuable knowledge you're not allowed to have a life, you stay on here helping some of us helpless lazy sods

Jokes aside would be brill if you get a chance real soon as mine will be going In within the next few days and I'd love to prove you right! As well the torque settings for the subframe bolts would be great also... might be pushing my luck haha

 

Hi, I went to my Audi dealer to order the subframe bolts. These are the bolts references and dimensions:

Subframe bolts: N10694701 - M12x1,5x115x90
Anti roll bar bolts: N10773401 - M8x55
Steering rack bolts N10560702 - M10x70

 

Hi, I went to my Audi dealer to order the subframe bolts. These are the bolts references and dimensions:

Subframe bolts: N10694701 - M12x1,5x115x90
Anti roll bar bolts: N10773401 - M8x55
Steering rack bolts N10560702 - M10x70

Good man!

I've replaced the majority of them apart from the main subframe bolts in red...

Was TPS who gave me porsche ones instead so I'll need the main subframe ones (red) and may as well go for the steering rack bolts next time.

I still have a knock but not as bad since replacing the Arb ones and x6 of the frame ones. I reckon the main subframe ones will definitely solve the knock.

Cheers for the part numbers.

 

I've bought the 4 Passat bolts to change the subframe ones with them (the red ones). As I'm thinking of doing the work myself - should the suspension be in the air or can it be done with the car sitting on its wheels?

 

Hi Vanu,

Did you get round to replacing them, any luck?

Seem to of had nothing but problems with my TT so this was put to the back of the list, but looking to get it done now!

Cheers.

 

There's a couple of TSBs that might be related to this problem. Knocking sounds in vehicles are tricky as they can be in one place, but sound like there's somewhere else.

viewtopic.php?f=19&t=1687994

viewtopic.php?f=19&t=1688209

 

Hi all.. first post in what seems like a great forum.

This thread has made very interesting and helpful reading.

I have what I think is a very similar issue to that described here, but there are a couple of caveats:

- Its intermittent... doesn't happen all the time but seems more noticeable when the car is warm. The very recent warmer weather has lead me to think that its not about the engine necessarily being warm from having been run for a while, but just the general ambient temperature. In the cooler mornings, and in the wet, I don't notice the issue (at least as much).
- Its not just under steering... when I'm parking mine in the evenings the noise can be heard just in a straight line.
- the speed at which the sound is observed is generally very low, although the tyre noise on my S Line might just be concealing something at higher speeds.

I know an earlier poster on here suggested that their issue seems to come and go. Mine is definitely there and more obvious lately.

Its booked into Audi next week, I have an early slot (long wait times) so just hoping I can replicate the problem there and then.

Although its a 13 plate, My car has only 16k on the clock, I would have hoped that these issues wouldn't spring up just yet.

Thoughts of course welcome - I'll take note of the advice on this forum particularly in relation to subframe bolts, but just wondered if anyone had further suggestions given that my issue appears not to be solely related to steering when stationary.

Cheers!

 

Hi everyone, I finally changed the subframe screws and installed a bushing kit as advised by Barr_end and since then no more knocking. Fortunately I did'nt listen to my Audi dealer who wanted to make me replace the steering rack (2200€ :-* Many thanks to Barr_end [smiley=thumbsup.gif]