Hi all.. first post in what seems like a great forum.

This thread has made very interesting and helpful reading.

I have what I think is a very similar issue to that described here, but there are a couple of caveats:

- Its intermittent... doesn't happen all the time but seems more noticeable when the car is warm. The very recent warmer weather has lead me to think that its not about the engine necessarily being warm from having been run for a while, but just the general ambient temperature. In the cooler mornings, and in the wet, I don't notice the issue (at least as much).
- Its not just under steering... when I'm parking mine in the evenings the noise can be heard just in a straight line.
- the speed at which the sound is observed is generally very low, although the tyre noise on my S Line might just be concealing something at higher speeds.

I know an earlier poster on here suggested that their issue seems to come and go. Mine is definitely there and more obvious lately.

Its booked into Audi next week, I have an early slot (long wait times) so just hoping I can replicate the problem there and then.

Although its a 13 plate, My car has only 16k on the clock, I would have hoped that these issues wouldn't spring up just yet.

Thoughts of course welcome - I'll take note of the advice on this forum particularly in relation to subframe bolts, but just wondered if anyone had further suggestions given that my issue appears not to be solely related to steering when stationary.

Cheers!

As the subframe holes are oversized in terms of m8 or m10 bolt with a 2-3mm larger hole, the frame doesn't just move with steering, it can move in any direction. Bloke at works S3 8p (same frame, rack, bolts and torque settings) used to clong when he gave it a boot full or broke sharply.
Mine also used to increase with the frequency and loudness of the noise once pulling home from driving back from work, rather than when leaving the drive to go to work in the morning, once the entire car has warmed up.
It isn't a case of being mileage or age related, the bolts do stretched. As people are probably bored of me writing for the minimum effort and cost to replace, doing all the bolts is where I'd start than looking for other suggestions.
I honestly wouldn't bother taking it to Audi to try and get to the bottom of the issue. If you haven't done already.

Hi everyone, I finally changed the subframe screws and installed a bushing kit as advised by Barr_end and since then no more knocking. Fortunately I did'nt listen to my Audi dealer who wanted to make me replace the steering rack (2200€ :-* Many thanks to Barr_end [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

Now that's what I want to hear 8)
I'm glad you've managed to save yourself a serious amount of money! How nice is it to have a nice silent car now?
Not that many would agree, but all those repeated responses to this thread were well worth it if I was able to help someone out. You're more than welcome man.

 

Hello. I've scanned through this thread (and a few others) but can't see the torque settings for the sub frame. Does anyone have them or can point me towards them. I've also googled but can only find mk1 settings.
Also for the control arms too if poss. or just a complete list of mk2 torques as I'm taking much of the front apart too.

Thanks in advance.

 

Don't worry. I found the torque settings on another forum.

 

A few questions if you dont mind:

Are these bolts the same for a 2013 1.8 TFSi? My wifes car has started developing these clunking noises.

I also have similar noises in my MK1 3.2 - are the bolts the same?

Finally - would you mind sharing the Torque Settings?

Many thanks

 

Don't worry. I found the torque settings on another forum.

And the torque settings are.....?

 

Don't worry. I found the torque settings on another forum.

Paha Cast off I'm on board :lol:

 

I have had the subframe ECS kit (subframe bolt kit) fitted and the noise is still there. What bushes did you replace to resolve the knocking?

 

I have had the subframe ECS kit (subframe bolt kit) fitted and the noise is still there. What bushes did you replace to resolve the knocking?

This kit isn't really up to the job and only replaces x2 of the subframe bolts which all need replacing as anyone of those could be causing the noise.

 

Ah I see. So worth trying all of them. I have had a look but is the only place to get them direct from audi? Do you know the part numbers needed? Assuming the two in that kit are okay. Everything else has been done as well, so this was my last resort regarding the noise. Thanks for the help!

 

Anyone?

A few questions if you dont mind:

Are these bolts the same for a 2013 1.8 TFSi? My wifes car has started developing these clunking noises.

I also have similar noises in my MK1 3.2 - are the bolts the same?

Finally - would you mind sharing the Torque Settings?

Many thanks

 

Also, does the undertray have to come off to change/tighten the bolts?

Many thanks

 

Did anyone know what the Torque settings are for the bolts on the Subframe?

 

Torque values for most of the TT can be found in here. It's a large file so I split it up and posted it for download in four sections.

https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1844165

 

Hi all,

Sorry to dig up an old thread...

I have a 2019 TT RS - Recently started with exactly the same issues described through this topic

The car is currently with Main Dealer, and they have replaced the top mounts but this has not resolved the issue - (Similar to others have described, hollow knocking noise whilst rolling at low speeds, intermittent how bad it is depending on nothing in particular, also will creak and groan dry steering lock to lock, again not every single time and sometimes worse than others.)

My question is regarding changing the subframe bolts, with this being a 3 month old car, and a MK3 will there be difference in the subframe, the bolts needed, any extra ones to consider etc.?

I did mention the info on this thread to the Main Dealer, but they just took note, they never said they would act on this, and currently are at a loss with how to fix the issue.

Any help appreciated!

 

It sounds like a broken spring when they catch as you turn it...does it knock when going over bumps, or it just when turning the steering wheel?
In the clip the car is stood still so I am guessing spring catching .TBH my 1st thought was top mount bearings but you have both had them replaced?
It doesn't really sound like sub-frame creak but who knows unless your actualy stood next to the car its hard to tell.
Humour me here please, even though you have had the bearings replaced would you try this please.
get some one turn the Steering wheel & while they do that you put your hand on top of the plastic above the top mount strut, you are trying to feel any vibration throught the strut. If you can it points to either top bearing( possibly not seated prperly ?) or a broken split spring catching. Good Luck...whatever you do if you get it fixed dont just dissapear, let people here know the out come so it helps other people in the future.

 

It sounds like a broken spring when they catch as you turn it...does it knock when going over bumps, or it just when turning the steering wheel?
In the clip the car is stood still so I am guessing spring catching .TBH my 1st thought was top mount bearings but you have both had them replaced?
It doesn't really sound like sub-frame creak but who knows unless your actualy stood next to the car its hard to tell.
Humour me here please, even though you have had the bearings replaced would you try this please.
get some one turn the Steering wheel & while they do that you put your hand on top of the plastic above the top mount strut, you are trying to feel any vibration throught the strut. If you can it points to either top bearing( possibly not seated prperly ?) or a broken split spring catching. Good Luck...whatever you do if you get it fixed dont just dissapear, let people here know the out come so it helps other people in the future.

Thanks for taking time to respond. to answer some of your points...

The car is still with Audi, where it has been since Tuesday last week, they have been through everything they explain checking springs, top mounts all the links and have not found anything they can see to be a problem, i cant see this being an issue with the springs as this is one of the first things they have checked..

After reading through all 6 pages of this thread, reading the issues others have noted, i feel that the subframe bolts are the likely culprit. The noise is intermittent, maybe sometime i could argue it is more prominent when the cars been driven for some time. Sometimes it will be very loud creaking and knocking whilst stationary turning the wheel lock to lock, then later on it may not do this at all, then other times it is noticeable when crawling at less than 10 mph there is no consistency to the noise no rhythm etc it seems almost completely random but happens more often than not. I feel this is described similarly from others in this thread.

Heres a video for reference when it was very noticeable

 

Sorry to be reviving an old thread, but I guess this is an example of using search in the internet archives.

I have a 2007 TT Roadster and have recently developed the same issue most people have posted here. The small knocking noise when turning the steering wheel slightly left or right (doesn't make any noise when you turn the wheel further left or further right) - I'd say slightly left or slightly right and it goes like: tak, tak, tak, tak.

I've read through all the pages here and looks like I'll be ordering subframe bolts, along with top mounts and strut brace breaings. Let us see how this goes.

 

My TT has the same problem, subframe bolts and top mounts swapped it behaved excellent (no noise) for 2/3 months and then came back.
Next month I'm instaling front and rear suspension from Bilstein, and the drop links ...the only thing im not replacing is the springs.

In my opinion i think that....we will never going to know what causes the noise. :?

 

https://www.amazon.com/STEELMAN-06600-C ... =8-2-fkmr0

 

I know it's an old thread but its helped me a lot. Thanks Barr_end. I got all the bolts for £18.00 delivered from Deutscheparts.co.uk. It might save someone a few quid in future instead of getting them from TPS or Audi👍

Shipping Method Select Shipping Method - Royal Mail 48

Items	Qty	Price
N10694701 x1 New genuine part - discounts available on multiples SKU: N10694701	5	£6.00
N10773401 x1 New genuine part - discounts available on multiples SKU: N10773401	5	£6.00
N10560702 x1 New genuine part - discounts available on multiples SKU: N10560702	5	£6.00
Subtotal	£18.00
Shipping & Handling	£0.00
Grand Total (Excl.Tax)	£15.00
VAT	£3.00
Grand Total (Incl.Tax)	£18.00

 

I know it's an old thread but its helped me a lot. Thanks Barr_end. I got all the bolts for £18.00 delivered from Deutscheparts.co.uk. It might save someone a few quid in future instead of getting them from TPS or Audi👍

Shipping Method Select Shipping Method - Royal Mail 48

Items	Qty	Price
N10694701 x1 New genuine part - discounts available on multiples SKU: N10694701	5	£6.00
N10773401 x1 New genuine part - discounts available on multiples SKU: N10773401	5	£6.00
N10560702 x1 New genuine part - discounts available on multiples SKU: N10560702	5	£6.00
Subtotal	£18.00
Shipping & Handling	£0.00
Grand Total (Excl.Tax)	£15.00
VAT	£3.00
Grand Total (Incl.Tax)	£18.00

Unfortunately... Looks like you may of grabbed some incorrect bolts & quantities on that order from a different poster within the thread.
I never found my Invoice from TPS and never posted any part numbers because of this.
If you check my reply in this thread earlier on shown below:

That's a lot closer to it yes. I've copied the image and highlighted all the bolts I replaced, each circle means a single bolt. Also the colour code is the bolts I believe are the same. Highlighted ones that appear they aren't there, those are on the wishbone bush cradle.
So...
- Yellow is x8 bolts - Which are all 16mm heads and same length, for both the steering rack and additionally the smaller bolts for the rear wishbone cradle.

• Green is x4 ARB block bolts - 13mm heads, short m8 bolts.
• Blue x4 main subframe bolts - These are 18mm heads that are fully threaded stretch bolts. Believe these maybe the same lengths as I think I had x4 of one part number on the invoice (which I should be getting back soon)

-Red is x2 main subframe bolts - that look like stretch bolts, have a small amount of shank, then shank length chances diameter multiple times before reaching the thread on the end.

Funnily enough after a long drive and back to the new forest misses car is making an awful clunk/knock and slight creaking. I will get a video and upload it for you all to see if this sounds like your issue. (mine was only creaking, most likely due to locking kit not allowing the frame to move/knock)
I'll be getting my bolts/invoice back from TPS and sorting hers, so I will update how I get on.

However the better response/image I have for this in another thread made about clunking noises:

As it seems people are struggling with this still need it written/shown before going off and being able to fully sort it and get an order in with the stealers...
So I have made just that, for those who need it.

I spent an age trying to find a diagram showing the full lower suspension and subframe set up on the front, includes, not only the main central subframe, but the side consoles which run up to the chassis legs, but also the rear wishbone consoles. No idea why google images didn't have a photo of the full thing, accessible seconds, google knows everything right :roll:
So now I have ALL of the bolts highlighted and their roles known.

I don't have the invoice with the part numbers in front of me however some of those numbers are present from the above and you don't need them to order the bolts from the dealers, I've done it x3 times personally and mates have to.

So the diagram...

RED - Main bolts, these are all the same diameter/head size, but all have varying lengths, so different part numbers and are the largest bolts used to hold the frame AND the wishbone consoles to the body/chassis of the car.
ORANGE - These bolt the wishbone consoles onto the frame, these NEED to be replaced too, along with the REDS at a minimum to stop your frame movement (these are the same bolt - length/diameter part number as the BLUES)
BLUE - Steering rack bolts
GREEN - Anti-roll bar bolts
PINK - front wishbone bolts ( same diameter/head size as the REDS)

As I've put before, just replacing one of these bolts is almost pointless, I do have a trade account, but they aren't massively different on price with bolts, if I remember rightly. These cost me sub £50 for ALL the bolts, this is a no brainer in my opinion.

Especially as the very first time I dropped the frame myself when I fitted, my coilovers, Tyrol subframe locking kit & Superpro antilift kit and poly bushes the ORANGE bolt was on back order to my local TPS and I said don't worry it'll be fine, few weeks later my frame started creeking. Adding fresh bolts in the locations I hadn't replaced rid the noise.
Then when my clutch was replaced, frame was dropped and I replaced every bolt highlighted and again after many miles on a stiffer than stock car I have had no issues with these noises.

Now from a quick research online I will use some part numbers below.
DO NOT just order these without checking. I purely wanted to try add some extra information to make it slightly easier.
Please cross check these with your vehicle/REG

RED -
x4 N10694701 M12 x1.5 x115x90
x2 WHT001914 M12 x1.5 x115-B (believe these are the bolts with slimmed shanks - replace with solid shank bolt)
ORANGE -
x4 N10560702 M10 x70mm
BLUE -
x4 N10560702 M10 x70mm
GREEN -
x4 N10706301 M8 x55mm
PINK -
x2 N10141003 M12 x1.5 x110mm

 

Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but hoping someone may have some advice. My 2008 Mk2 has the steering noise/creak/knock exactly as described at the beginning of this thread. It doesn't make the noise in really cold weather, or if car has been stood for some days. More noticeable while stationary and at parking speeds but I'm sure it's doing it while driving, but road noise drowns it out. The car drives fine otherwise, nothing picked up on MOT's. I thought I'd try by replacing all the subframe, steering rack and roll bar bolts as recommended. While removing the bolts none were loose and there was no visible sign of movement of the subframe. Having replaced all the bolts I still have the noise. Part of me is thinking I just live with it, it's been like it for 2 years and hasn't got worse. But it's frustrating I can't identify the source of the noise. Does anyone have any ideas what else to look at. Top mounts? Track rod ends? I obviously want to avoid the cost of replacing the steering rack if it's not going to fix the issue.

Thanks

 

Topmounts is the most likely culprit of this noise..
This is usually the first item most replace when playing parts darts to try and rid this noise.
Usually giving every moving part of the front suspension a real good visual inspection and pry about should help you see if there is anything that could be due replacement whilst doing the top mounts.

Then frame bolts is the next step in playing parts darts as it's more than possible this is the noise if it's still present after the mounts have been fitted and is a cheap/easy solution.
Any of the moving components up front, bushes, balljoints, drop links COULD result in this noise, but these would usually have much more noticeable failure characteristics

 

Mine creaks too - always has. Low speed manoeuvring only. It’s not getting any worse so I’ve not been in any hurry to sort it but I will be going to 034 motorsport/Tyrol sport for the fix when I get round to it. Interestingly my mg metro used to do it too back in the day. That was the ARB bushes in that instance.

I don’t think the problem is widely understood by Audi or indies And they’ll go down the usual suspect’s route before looking to subframe bolts.