I installed a set of yellow DRL bulbs. I followed Swissjetpilot's VCDS instructions and I got rid of the error on the dash. A different issue has presented itself. When I set the headlights to auto I have no parking lights (this is fine except for the bulb out error). If I turn on the lights manually I get both the DRL and parking lights but still the DTC error on the dash. Does anyone know of a way to turn off the parking light error or am I stuck to going back to the halogen bulbs to get rid of the error. It has now evolved to where the parking lights don't work at all.
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MJA4653
LED help
1 reading
I installed a set of yellow DRL bulbs. I followed Swissjetpilot's VCDS instructions and I got rid of the error on the dash. A different issue has presented itself. When I set the headlights to auto I have no parking lights (this is fine except for the bulb out error). If I turn on the lights manually I get both the DRL and parking lights but still the DTC error on the dash. Does anyone know of a way to turn off the parking light error or am I stuck to going back to the halogen bulbs to get rid of the error. It has now evolved to where the parking lights don't work at all.
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There is no such thing as "CAN bus" bulbs whatsoever. Bulbs are not communicating on the bus with the car, period. This is just nonesenical foolishness that these sellers/companies have dreamed up as a catch-all for saying "these bulbs won't give you errors, flickering, etc." So-called CAN bulbs do not comunicate with anything and neither did the stock bulbs. They simply present a resistance to the module (which itself is sometimes CAN-connected in the car but also may not be, on old vehicles that have bulb monitoring...or even on newer vehicles which might use MOST or Flexray and not CAN), but none of this has anything to do with "CAN bus compatibility" of a bulb.
Most of the modern LED bulbs have a little driver circuit on them to essentially "show" this resistance to the car and eliminate bulb out errors. Older ways of getting around this were to have resistors on the boards or external resistors to plug in, etc. The driver circuit based bulbs also have the ability to deal with some degree of PWM (factory bulb dimming) to prevent flickering or incorrect flashing that would occur with a more basic or older type LED bulb.
Anyway the problem of both resistors and the ICs is always that it's possible the LEDs themselves can fail but the resistor is still there or IC still operating fine. So in these cases you may actually get a bulb out, but never have a bulb out warning because you've effectively bypassed that feature of the car.
The other thing about these bulbs is sometimes they will work fine in "static" bulb positions like marker lights, fogs, or reverse lights; but the same bulb type/brand used in a flashing bulb (like a signal or brake light) may have issues.
There are additional problems that the resistance levels and when/how a given make/model of car tests the bulbs in order to produce (or not produce) the bulb out warnings. There is no universal and again no actual CAN communication going on here, so it's a crap shoot. Yet the bulbs are of course sold as universal and "CAN bus" this and that 🙄 But just because they work in a 2010 Dodge Ram or something and oh that vehicle has "CAN bus" w/o error doesn't mean they will in an F150...or an Audi, or whatever other car.
These cars (meaning PQ35 VAG vehicles) also monitor bulbs at different times and levels. So you may install bulbs in your garage or whatever turn them on see everything works w/o error and put all your trim/assemblies, etc. back together thinking it's all fine. Then you go for an actual drive and shortly thereafter find the error comes on nonetheless. There are differences in what they call "cold diagnosis" and "hot diagnosis" of the bulbs by the controller so this is also very common to see. In the end you can try different bulbs and you may get lucky or you may try 3-4 still have some kind of error and then just give up and use regular bulbs, lol. Up to you what you want to do here.
Most of the modern LED bulbs have a little driver circuit on them to essentially "show" this resistance to the car and eliminate bulb out errors. Older ways of getting around this were to have resistors on the boards or external resistors to plug in, etc. The driver circuit based bulbs also have the ability to deal with some degree of PWM (factory bulb dimming) to prevent flickering or incorrect flashing that would occur with a more basic or older type LED bulb.
Anyway the problem of both resistors and the ICs is always that it's possible the LEDs themselves can fail but the resistor is still there or IC still operating fine. So in these cases you may actually get a bulb out, but never have a bulb out warning because you've effectively bypassed that feature of the car.
The other thing about these bulbs is sometimes they will work fine in "static" bulb positions like marker lights, fogs, or reverse lights; but the same bulb type/brand used in a flashing bulb (like a signal or brake light) may have issues.
There are additional problems that the resistance levels and when/how a given make/model of car tests the bulbs in order to produce (or not produce) the bulb out warnings. There is no universal and again no actual CAN communication going on here, so it's a crap shoot. Yet the bulbs are of course sold as universal and "CAN bus" this and that 🙄 But just because they work in a 2010 Dodge Ram or something and oh that vehicle has "CAN bus" w/o error doesn't mean they will in an F150...or an Audi, or whatever other car.
These cars (meaning PQ35 VAG vehicles) also monitor bulbs at different times and levels. So you may install bulbs in your garage or whatever turn them on see everything works w/o error and put all your trim/assemblies, etc. back together thinking it's all fine. Then you go for an actual drive and shortly thereafter find the error comes on nonetheless. There are differences in what they call "cold diagnosis" and "hot diagnosis" of the bulbs by the controller so this is also very common to see. In the end you can try different bulbs and you may get lucky or you may try 3-4 still have some kind of error and then just give up and use regular bulbs, lol. Up to you what you want to do here.
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