[SwissJetPilot]

Just as an FYI, my German spec 2007 Roadster has the Rev B module. The only top problem I've encountered was with the roof flaps servos. I cleaned them up, ran the Adaptation and since then it's all worked perfectly.

 

[Colsim_1]

Chestnutree, any luck on getting a new control unit and it resolving the issues?

 

[chestnutree]

Still not heard back from the garage. Said they'd call when they have an update. Must still be baffling them!

 

[Colsim_1]

m the garage. Said they'd call when they have an update. Must still be baffl

 

[Colsim_1]

So decided to just go for it and buy another roof control module for £85 off ebay. Basically, no difference. Still flashing light, and movement.

Going into winter not a problem apart from when I hit 30 mph and the dash tells me roof not secure but it clearly is as manually locked it. So next step is the switches in the roof latch that confirm it is shut as that could be the cause. I know I can buy the full assembly but does anyone know it you can just buy the micro switches?

Thanks

Col

 

[bobbobb]

do you have vagcom as you can see the switches closed and open in that to tell if they are faulty.
i have a full set of switches if your in need

 

[SwissJetPilot]

You can buy the micro-switches, but you'll have to get the component they're connected to from eBay and remove them yourself. As far as I know, Audi does not sell the switches as individual parts, as they are a piece-part to an assembly just like a contact switches would be in the door lock assembly.

Follow the link below and check out page 13. Then scroll down the page near the bottom. I have posted a series of Roadster top components that show the micro switches. All of these images came off parts for sale on eBay.

Convertible / Soft Top Roof Failure - Please Help!

Hi everyone, I really don't want to spend money at the garage so all DIY help would be appreciated. I've just driven home with the roof down. Got home and tried to put it back up but it failed. The roof got as high as the wind deflector and stopped. The light on the dash is flashing. I...

www.ttforum.co.uk

 

[Colsim_1]

Chestnut, any update from the garage?

 

[chestnutree]

Hi,
Apologies for the absence from this post. For some reason i've stopped receiving e-mail notifications when there's a response.
I've just called the garage for an update. They also tried fitting a new control unit for the issue to still persist. They still don't appear to be too confident on what the issue may be but they're now looking at the lock motor being at fault. Potentially overheating and then staying in this position? They want to run more tests before ordering one as apparently they're quite expensive. Great!

 

[SwissJetPilot]

@ chestnutree - So this garage is proceeding with no fault codes?? Interesting. If the motor was faulting, I'm pretty sure there would be a DTC to let you know. Sounds like these guys are just guessing at this point. There's not really that many parts that can go wrong; Controller, Latch motor and Hydraulic pump. That's pretty much it. If any of the switches failed, an OBDII scan would show the fault.

If you're not in a hurry, you might want to hold off and try to find one on eBay. I paid 30-Euro earlier this year for one as a spare. They're a bit difficult to find, but every now and then someone parts out a top.

 

[chestnutree]

Another update but not good news i'm afraid.

The garage have exhausted all avenues and have sadly had to admit defeat with this one. They haven't changed the roof motor so i guess this still stands as a possibility but they just can't work it out. So, turning the tables, if @Colsim_1 fixes his i'd love to know what the resolution was Or if anyone else out there may know? Slightly annoying after spending so much money replacing the hydraulic pipes only a few months earlier and i now still can't use it.

On the plus side, they haven't charged me any labour at all even though they've spent hours on it which is good of them.

 

[SwissJetPilot]

@ chestnutree - Are there still no fault codes at all under Address 26?

 

[chestnutree]

@ chestnutree - Are there still no fault codes at all under Address 26?

Nope. Only the switch position which you mentioned was generic for the switch being disabled when a fault is detected. I just don’t know where to go from here…..

 

[SwissJetPilot]

@ chestnutree - Can you run a new fault scan and post your results?

Also take a look at the measurement blocks under Groups 007 and 008. When I went back to review this post and go over everything that's been done these values under Group 008 seem odd -

According to the block data specifications, these values should be somewhere between ~42 (closed) and ~184 (open). However the data shown here seems way off -

Block 1: Sw. Thresh. (open) Flap Left (G596) = 70.0
Block 2: Conv. Top Flap Sensor Left (G596) = 39.0
Block 3: Sw. Thresh. (open) Flap Right (G597) = 70.0
Block 4: Conv. Top Flap Sensor Right (G597) = 38.0

A value of 70 seems too low and 39 and 38 are obviously below the ~42 threshold.
Here you can see Group 007 and 008 values from my Roadster -

For comparison, you might want to compare your block values against those shown in this post under Section 1.4.

FAQ - Mk2 Roadster Convertible Measurement Blocks, Fault...

Section 1 - Convertible Top Fault Codes When the roof fails to operate properly, it will require a VAG software compatible OBDII diagnostic device in order to identify the DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code) and affected components. Since fault scans and drill-downs can often take a while, it's a...

www.ttforum.co.uk

Given everything you've done up to this point I'm still suspect of the roof flap servos despite the lack of fault codes against them. It might be worth opening them up again just to make sure the PCB traces are not damaged and pay special attention to the little copper "fingers" on the gear as there have been reports of these being bent while being reassembled.

The elephant in the room could also be a bad console switch (E137). While I haven't read any reports of them failing, it's not impossible either. It might be worth putting a meter on it to check that it's working properly.

The only other thing I can think of is a damaged wiring harness. Again, not an issue I have seen reported against the Mk2, but on other Audi convertibles it has been come up a few times. It wouldn't require pulling the top but would require doing a point-to-point continuity test to verity the harness is okay.

 

[chestnutree]

Hi @SwissJetPilot,

Unfortunately I haven't been able to carry out any of the steps above. For some reason, since having it back from the garage i'm no longer able to read from the ODB port. When running an auto scan it states function not supported by gateway. See photo attached plus one from the port test. I've plugged, unplugged numerous times, used a different laptop, stopped/started the car, locked, unlocked and started the car etc etc over and over again but i can't get it to read just once

Really getting to the point now where i fear i'm going to have to give up on this car but i really don't want to.....

Without being able to access the faults and read sensors i'm pretty screwed. Since it came back from the garage the rear window demister won't activate. The button illuminates for a couple of seconds and then goes out. I think it's because the car thinks the roof isn't secure so it deactivates the rear demister.

Sometimes when i start the engine, it states roof function not available and the fault light for the roof flashes for the whole journey but this doesn't happen every time. When it does happen, every time i go above 30mph it beeps again to say roof not secure so if i'm fluctuating around this speed it will become incredibly annoying. Yet, sometimes i don't get an error but it won't let me operate the roof still. Also, 50% of the time i don't get a horn beep confirmation that the car is locked and alarmed which again i'm putting down to the car thinking the roof isn't secure so it's not activating the alarm. If only i could clear the codes and ensure it was shut properly.......

@Colsim_1 did you get any further with yours?

Nick

 

[SwissJetPilot]

@ chestnutree - Have you updated the Ross Tech software on your laptop? You might try that first, and then run it again. Just looking at my laptop, my last update was version 21.3 and they're now at 21.9.

If you have an old battery, then that can be an issue as the MK2 TT seems to be quite sensitive to a dodgy battery. It's a good idea to have the engine running when scanning and/or operating the roof to keep the voltage up as even an auto scan can drain a weak battery. I've actually run mine down from 12v to less than 10v but it was the OEM factory fitted battery which I replaced a few years ago.

 

[chestnutree]

Hi @SwissJetPilot,

The version of Ross Tech i'm using is the latest version which my cable will work with. If i use a later version the cable i have doesn't work. Not had issues with it up until now.

A new battery was fitted last year when these issues started and i had the engine running every time i tried except for one (Just as a test).

 

[SwissJetPilot]

@ chestnutree - You might want to join the Ross Tech Forum and see if they can help. This was posted back in Sep 2, 2021 regarding the 21.9 release which might be helpful. Jump on the existing post, upload the pictures from above, and see if they are able to help. Uwe Ross will always ask for an auto scan to prove you're using his product, but since you can't get that far, the images you have should suffice.

 

[Colsim_1]

@chestnutree Look at the picture on what we've managed to do!!! One TT with a roof that opens/closes and actually latches on.

So after buying a new controller, new roof latch, cleaning servos, and buying VCDS ~ I gave up. I knew a guy, that knew a guy who was a wizard with TTs roofs, so I gave him a call. He was really booked up, so booked a slot a few weeks ago. In 5 minutes, playing with VCDS he diagnosed that he thought it was a small switch called a hall sensor. He has seen it before, it corrodes inside it and stops giving the signal that the roof is closing (and to open the latches). So 2 options, full roof replacement by Audi (not a chance), or he could replace the sensor (an F171 Sensor) by cutting the old one out and resplicing in a new one. The cost of the part was only £65 (cheaper than ebay).

Agreeing to go ahead, 45 minutes later with him with long surgical tools (really!, it is a nightmare to get to, but saved dismantling the roof) the part was replaced and the roof was like new. He is in Leicester, and it took me longer to drive there from Chester.

After spending hundreds on my roulette diagnostics, he fixed it for less than a couple of hundred quid (parts and labour!).

So the moral of the story - go to the expert who knows how to fix TT roofs. If you are still stuck, I would bit the bullet and take it Khurrum at vagpro.co.uk, 07834770567.

 

[SwissJetPilot]

@ Colsim_1 - That's great you found someone who can replace a F171 Hall Switch. From the picture in the SSP391, it does not look like fun to replace or even access. Since you have a VCDS, I'm curious if you ever saw a DTC for 01092 - Convertible top Stowed Switch (F171).

• Roadster DTC list can he found here.
• Images are from Self Study Program SSP391 can be found here.