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Mk2 TT - Wheel, Wheel Spacer and Tire Fitment Compendium

2.3K views 25 replies 8 participants last post by  TT'sRevenge  
#1 · (Edited)
There's a whole lot of information out there seperated in various threads about fitment on the 8J, I want to try and condense it down to one thread with all necessary information to achieve good fitment and ideally pictures of as many TTs with as many information we can get!

So please add your TT, I've added a simple template.
For pictures; Some from the front & rear is good to really showcase how far in/out your wheels sit in the arch.

Code:
Specs: ???/?? r??x?J ET??
Tyres:
Spacers front:
Spacers rear:
Lowered: Stock/SLine/Custom
Rear tabs removed: Y/N
Rubbing: ...
As example (not my situation):
Specs: 255/35 r19x9J ET52
Tyres: Michelin Pilot Sport 4S
Spacers front: 10mm
Spacers rear: 10mm
Lowered: Custom 30mm
Rear tabs removed: Y
Rubbing: No noticable rubbing on the front, rears slight rub over bumps


Stock information
General Information
Pattern: 5x112
Center Bore: 57.1
SLine suspension is 10mm lower than stock
Bolts: M14x1.5 / 27mm threaded length / 23mm flange / 17mm hex / R13 ball seat
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Wheels
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r17x8J ET47
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r17x8.5J ET50
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r18x9J ET52
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r18x9J ET52
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r18x9J ET52
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r19x9J ET52
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r19x9J ET52
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r19x9J ET52
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r19x9J ET52
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r19x9J ET52
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r19x9J ET52
 
#2 · (Edited)

Rear tabs

In the rear wheel arches are metal tabs with a rubber bung where the rear bumper and rear fenders meet. They do not have any real use but cause rubbing if you want your wheels to sit flush.
From this thread Spacers / Rubbing | Audi TT Forum
You can see signs of these tabs rubbing your tyres
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They can be safely grinded down.
Remove the inner lining and grind away.
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Just make sure you properly protect the bare metal or it will rust and destroy the entire wheel arch.

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It is a thin layer of metal with some filling in it, so you'll have it removed fairly quickly with a dremel ish tool.

Coat it with some paint or rust stopper and you're good.
 

Attachments

#3 ·
Some of the pics I found on older threads/cross forums to give an idea.

From Audi TT wheel spacers - AudiWorld Forums
Specs: 255/35 r19x9J ET52
Spacers front: 8mm
Spacers rear: 12mm
Lowered: Eibach springs
Rear tabs removed: ?
Rubbing: None


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From: Rear Arch Clearance | Audi TT Forum
Specs: 255/30 r20x9J ET45
Spacers front: 0mm
Spacers rear: 0mm
Lowered: KW V3
Rear tabs removed: Y
Rubbing: None after trimming rear arch liner


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From Spacers / Rubbing | Audi TT Forum
Specs: 255/30 r20x9J ET52
Spacers front: 12mm
Spacers rear: 15mm
Lowered: ?
Rear tabs removed: No
Rubbing: Rubbing on front & rear


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#4 ·
Might need to add tyre brand and model esp. if predicting whether it will rub is a goal of this thread.

For example, recently fitted 8mm H&R spacers front/rear on stock height (with new thicker rubber shims at the rear to correct for hanging ass look) on 19” with 255/35/19 ET52
Kleber Dynaxer UHP. Got rubbing in the rear (although many reports state it should be fine without tab modification).

After grinding down the metal a bit (still retaining clip function and plastic piece) the Klebers still rub on bumps but new Pirelli Cinturato’s in the same dimensions don’t.
 
#5 ·
May I suggest a new title for this post "Mk2 Wheel and Tire Fitment Compendium" since it's intended to cover a variety of wheels and tire options for the Mk2?

Sounds like a great project post given the amount of information we have scattered across the Mk2 Forum. Well worth collecting it and putting it all in one place.
 
#7 ·
May I suggest a new title for this post "Mk2 Wheel and Tire Fitment Compendium" since it's intended to cover a variety of wheels and tire options for the Mk2?
What you mean this doesn't work?

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😆
 
#6 ·
Lug bolt length is the same regardless of the offset, rim size, style or ride height.
OEM rims use a 14mm x 1.5 R13 ball seat 17mm hex (bolt head size) Standard length would be 26.6 – 27mm.

Aftermarket rims typically use a cone seat (and they're not interchangable)
Bolt length changes when you add spacers. (i.e. 10mm spacer requires 37mm bolts (27mm +10mm=37mm)
 
#9 ·
Spookles0 said:
Ah I was expecting different ETs use different lengths, thanks!
:)(y)The position (offset) of the central hub within the rim barrel changes in relation to the barrel centerline, but the thickness of the rim's central mounting hub doesn't change.
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#10 ·
Good idea for single thread with wheel fitment. I'll list a set I bought second hand which I knew was going to be touch and go without rubbing.
Excellent price on the new tyres so hate to not use. Did drive home over 2hrs on mountain roads wigth some tense rubbing moments (see black tape on front).

Specs: 255/40 r19x8.5J ET45
Tyres: Continental Max Contact Sport plus
Spacers front: nil
Spacers rear: nil
Lowered: stock- Magride
Rear tabs removed: No
Rubbing: Rubbing on front when hitting bumps. Rear ok.


Apologies if pics are not great but had these on file. Have since removed wheels and replaced with another set until I decided what to do with them. Possible options include settling set, selling tyres only or rolling front gaurds.

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#12 ·
Good idea for single thread with wheel fitment. I'll list a set I bought second hand which I knew was going to be touch and go without rubbing.
Excellent price on the new tyres so hate to not use. Did drive home over 2hrs on mountain roads wigth some tense rubbing moments (see black tape on front).

Specs: 255/40 r19x8.5J ET45
Tyres: Continental Max Contact Sport plus
Spacers front: nil
Spacers rear: nil
Lowered: stock- Magride
Rear tabs removed: No
Rubbing: Rubbing on front when hitting bumps. Rear ok.


Apologies if pics are not great but had these on file. Have since removed wheels and replaced with another set until I decided what to do with them. Possible options include settling set, selling tyres only or rolling front gaurds.

View attachment 529709 View attachment 529710

View attachment 529711 View attachment 529712
I like the meaty look of the 40s.
 
#11 · (Edited)
Next set after lesson above;

Specs: 235/40 r18x8J ET47
Tyres: Goodyear Revspec Eagle F1
Spacers front: nil
Spacers rear: nil
Lowered: stock- Magride
Rear tabs removed: No
Rubbing: No rubbing anywhere.

I do like the look of these except tyres need to be a bit wider and possibly offset greater to make sit flush. Bought cheap as PO painted and had it wrinkle on final clear coat. I plan to sand down and paint a gun metal grey.

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#13 ·
I believe there used to be exactly this thread - a fairly large multi page thread, documenting peoples wheels/fitments on the 8J/Mk2 Forum section.
I myself commented in it a few times as I have run 7? Maybe more sets on my person TTS, but have set up multiple other 8J's over the years & came from a fitment driven background (Stance cars)

But annoyingly for the life of me cannot find said thread with all my searching. (looked at ALL my comments back to 2020, it took too long)
Maybe one for SwissJetPilot to take a deeper (more knowledgeable) look into

Unless memory isn't serving too well... & it was the likes of:
And it was purely sub chat within this that discussed wheel fitment
 
#14 ·
Specs: 255/35 r19x9J ET52
Tyres: Vredestein Wintrac Pro
Spacers front: 10mm
Spacers rear: 10mm
Lowered: SLine
Rear tabs removed: Y
Rubbing: Rear under heavy compression / Front when compressed and close to full lock steering

She sits quite nicely as is, probably wouldn't want to go much further out unless I'd change the springs to make them compress less.

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#15 ·
Specs: 255/35 r19x9J ET52
Tyres: Pirelli Cinturato SF3 2024
Spacers front: 8mm
Spacers rear: 8mm
Lowered: TTS stock with 5mm thicker shims in the rear (265mm front / 260mm rear)
Rear tabs removed: N, only shaved the protuding metal part to the level of the plastic retainer.
Rubbing: Rear under heavy compression (fast speed bumps)

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#16 ·
Specs: 255/35 r19x9J ET52
Tyres: Kleber Dynaxer
Spacers front: 8mm
Spacers rear: 8mm
Lowered: TTS stock with 5mm thicker shims in the rear (265mm front / 260mm rear)
Rear tabs removed: N, only shaved the protuding metal part to the level of the plastic retainer.
Rubbing: Yes at the rear, even at moderately quick turn-ins & speed bumps
 
#17 ·
Hmm I might as well thrown my own data into the thread, though should be noted I have "only 18s" on the car because for whatever reason that was still the standard size for the S in Canada in MY13 (in the US it was 19" 🤷‍♂️). I think the 19" wheels and baseball leather were the only things the car wasn't optioned with by the original buyer. Anyway...

Specs: 245/40 R18 x 9J ET52 (factory/OE wheel and tyre size)
Tyres: General G-Max RS (based on/similar to the Semperit Speed Life 2 in Europe as both are Conti brands).
Spacers front: 15mm
Spacers rear: 12.5mm
Lowered: No (Stock S height*)
Rear tabs removed: No

Rubbing: Have not removed the rear bumper tabs. The tyres have rubbed the tabs on the rear...very occasionally...typically only when the trunk has a bunch of stuff in it and the car is cornered hard and/or when a moderate bump is in the road while cornering. Tyre "damage" from said rubbing has been very minimal--I see a very light "line" in the tyres from it but hasn't been concerning enough to bother removing the tabs. The front has zero issues with 15mm on there (ET37 effective).

*Car is an S but no longer has factory springs on it. Instead it has an Eibach Pro-Kit on it...for a 3.2L car. The rear springs however are the same in the Pro-Kit for the 3.2L as they are for a 2.0L car (only the front are different). Overall however, I'd say the car is really no higher or lower than it was stock--i.e. "mildly lowered" 3.2L = stock S height, or so it turns out. (Here is the reason I intentionally put "the wrong springs" on it, if anyone is wondering.) The car retains OE magride dampers, all replaced with new ~3yrs ago as outlined in same thread.

Pictures...can't really take 'em right now because the 12.5mm spacers I use on the rear of the TT I have to put on the front of Mr. A3 in the winter, to clear the 18Zs with my factory/winter wheels. With the aftermarket/summer wheels it only needs 8mm to clear. Yes, it's a bit of a PITA to take the spacers off the rear of the TT every year...I've been meaning to get a separate set for him.
 
#18 ·
What do you think about turning this into the Mk2 "Wheel, Wheel Spacer and Tire Fitment Compendium"...?

I think we could combine all three topics since they all seem related.

I can create a KB post that links back here for discussion. Just avoids so many multiple threads since these questions come up over and over again.

Thoughts?
 
#19 ·
The term fitment is basically an all encompassing word, which includes everything related to minimising space between the fenders and tyres without "tucking" them. (Which is more stance territory). So go right ahead (y)
 
#20 ·
TBH the term "fitment" is barely a word LOL. To be clear it is a word, apparently use going back the the 1800s, but it seems like it has been more popularised in the modern age, particularly when talking about wheels/tyres on cars. This kind of specific usage even leading to one company naming themselves after it.

Simply using the word "fit" (without the "ment")...actually works just fine. To me saying "fitment" akin to saying "Irregardless", which similarly is a word but the use of it is generally frowned upon. But, what do I know? I typically use a lot more words than necessary as it is lol 🤷‍♂️😄

I just find "fitment" annoying is all; though not nearly as annoying as the egregious and incorrect usage of "literally" which has become rampant in today's society 😡
 
#24 ·
According to willtheyfit.com your setup with 18" 255/40 has 1mm more arch gap than mine with 19" 255/35. E.g. you have "more" space between the upper edge of your tyre and the wheel arch. But 1mm is so little it will probably depend on what tyres exactly you run.

I would say my own setup with 255/35 R19x9J ET52 with a 10mm spacer at the front is about flush. My wheels sit about 6mm further out than yours. E.g. a spacer of 6mm will work, but at 6mm you do not have hub centric rings, which is generally recommended in terms of safety and vibration etc. Hub centric spacers tend to start at 10mm, however H&R has them from 8mm H&R DR-System Wheelspacers 8mm 5x112 - Hub 57,1mm - Bolt size M14x1,5 - Audi/Seat/Skoda/Volkswagen/Ford | HS1655573.

So I'd say start with 8mm, see if you like it/if it rubs, move on from there, but I'd recommend against using anything less than 8mm because of the lack of hub centric rings.
 
#26 ·
Yeah the websites and specs/numbers only ever really tell you so much. Things can still turn out different in the real world unfortunately. Hence why when using different spacers I've pretty much always been "trial and error" on it, with some errors in the mix like:

-Bought 12.5mm and 15mm spacers to clear my brakes on my A3, not knowing 100% which one would be better or work. I knew it had to be over 10, but wasn't sure if I needed more than 12.5. So I bought both. I ended up only needing the 12.5mm so the 15mm just sat around until I bought the TT and then magically had a use for them lol.

-Bought 7mm spacers for basically the same thing but with different wheels, only to find out that while they fit on the hub on the car and would work to clear the brakes, because wheels commonly have a "chamfer" on their centre bore, the wheel wouldn't grab the hub with this spacer (which is flange/hubless itself). Had to then get 8mm spacers with a hub, in order to get this to work. The 7mm spacers are basically confined to a drawer now--i.e. a waste of $$$.

-Somewhere along the line I bought 4mm spacers as well. I can't even really remember why lol. I actually do use them on the rear of the A3 even though I never really needed them.

Those are only examples with spacers, but same kind of thing can happen with wheels, tyres, lowering springs, etc. IMO/IME, you never truly know what's going to happen, until you try it and see.

On a side note, before someone points out that my spacer shenanigans could have been avoided by "taking the car to a shop" who could try different combinations with their test sets, etc. for me, I'd just say that's more a "over my dead body" thing, lol. I'd much rather "waste" $100 or so on a set of spacers I end up not needing, than ever have anyone go near my cars. Even when I do get new tyres, all the shop ever gets is the wheels, off/loose from the car. I won't even let them help me load/unload them from the car, no way, no how 😂