Repost:

"People often refer to red-colored coil packs as 'R8' coil packs since the R8 uses them. (However, red packs are not exclusive to the R8)

There is nothing particularly special about red packs vs black ones. There is no additional horsepower to be gained by changing from black to red. The real reason for upgrading is early coil pack revisions were unreliable / prone to failure and (at the time), the R8 used the latest rev. available.

So, replacing known good black versions for red Chinese knockoffs is foolish. Whereas replacing old rev packs with newer OE ones (regardless of color) makes sense.

Like a lot of OE parts, VW / Audi uses multiple vendors (NGK being one) and in some instances those vendor might manufacture the same part in multiple countries. The ones manufactured by Eldor in Italy are considered highly reliable and often recommended, but as long as you use legit Audi p/n 06E905115E or F (Red) or 06F905115F (Black) you'll be fine."

Lots of forum members are running red coils packs w/o issue. If you have an older MK2 or plan on an ECU tune proactive replacement is recommended (but not required).

 

Thank you FNChaos for that insight.

Checking the part numbers for both R8 and for the TT leaves me wondering the compatibility.
I guess the R8 name used on the online AD is merely suggestive and a "mental" stimulation" but not an interchangeable Ignition coil for both types of model, specifically an R8 and a TT.

The Things people do for a buck.

 

Checking the part numbers for both R8 and for the TT leaves me wondering the compatibility.

Nothing special about a coil pack. Just a step-up transformer and FET switching circuit.

Quick check looks like the latest rev is 'G'. (Note: This doesn't necessarily mean better than E or F. Suffix change could just denote a change in supplier)

06E905115G Same coil pack used in a wide variety of makes & models. Audi A3, R8, TT, VW Tiguan, Golf R, Porsche Panamera, etc
See: Fitment tab @ Ignition Coil Pack (Revision G, Red, Genuine) for examples of the various makes / models / alternate p/n's this part covers.

 

@ chefyong - If you're interested in doing your own maintenance, the post below will provide you with some really good information that Audi doesn't include in their service intervals. Pay special attention to Cam Followers, AWD Haldex filter changes and replacing accessory belts on older vehicles as belts and rubber components just wear out over time, regardless of mileage. Audi also believes coolant is "lifetime" which is nonsense, so you may want to consider a coolant flush especially since your engine is now 14-years old. And if you don't already have one, an OBDII device for checking and clearing faults is well worth the investment.

FAQ - Audi TT (8J) Recommended Maintenance & Service

Thanks to Barr_End for this excellent list of maintenance topics. :) The standard Audi maintenance schedule does not cover many of these issues, and from over a decade of Mk2 experience, these recommendations should be followed, especially by new owners who may not have a service history for...

www.ttforum.co.uk

FAQ - OBDII Diagnostic Device Reviews

For the purpose of this discussion the term "OBDII Diagnostic Device" includes any diagnostic device that can be used to interrogate and report on the status of the electronic system of the Mk1, Mk2 or Mk3 TT by means of the OBD port. For the specific details on the differences between VCDS and...

www.ttforum.co.uk

 

Thank you FNChaos.Your common sense approach has left none for wanting. Your inputs has just been informative but a delight in reading as I come across your replies in forum questions.

Thank you Swiss Jet Pilot for the sizable, significant and completeness of information you have brought to this forum. Immeasurable effort is clearly seen as i get to see your responses when i get to read the forums. Your Preeminent role has not just helped the members but the forum in its essence.

 

FNChaos, pardon me for a Newbie question,

You mentioned "If you have an older MK2 or plan on an ECU tune proactive replacement is recommended (but not required)."
Is this the same as updating the Firmware done at the dealership?

Thanks again

 

You mentioned "If you have an older MK2 or plan on an ECU tune proactive replacement is recommended (but not required)."
Is this the same as updating the Firmware done at the dealership?

No. In the first instance I'm suggesting that older MK2's 'might' have coil packs that should have been replaced as part of Audi's coil pack recall. If you are unsure you can compare the part numbers found on your coil pack with the following list.

The following contains p/n's that were not part of Audi's coil pack recall (meaning there is no reason to replace them unless they actually fail)
Note: info gathered from various web sources so take it for what it's worth...

07K905115D
07K905115E*
07K905115F
06F905115F
06H905115
06D905115K
06E905115D
06E905115E
06E905115F
06E905115G
06F905115F

* 07K905715E ok to use but do not mix.

In the second instance I'm suggesting than anyone considering a Stage1, 2 or 3 ECU tune should consider proactive replacement to avoid failure. ECU tuning increases the stress on parts and old coil packs have been known to fail shortly after tuning.

 

This is spot on! I have just had a stage 1 tune and 2 days later the engine developed a miss fire. Replaced them and hey presto! Be sure to clear the misfire with an obd.

 

This might be boring for some of you young guys (gals) but FWIW, a little history lesson... god no...
Prior to the advent of coil packs, most cars had a single ignition coil (essentially a single coil pack providing energy to all of your spark plugs).

Your ignition system then used a 'distributor' which was a mechanical device directly connected to your camshaft through a set of gears. As your camshaft turned a shaft within the distributor rotated.

As the distributor shaft rotated, an arm with a copper contact (rotor) would make / break electrical connections from the ignition coil to a series of contacts mounted on a 'distributor cap'. The energy from the coil was the distributed (hence the name) through these contacts via a set of spark plug wires providing the energy to fire your spark plugs individually (visualize the hands of a clock making a connection at 3, 6, 9 & 12 as it rotates around the dial)

Problem with this design is moving parts wear out and the intensity of the spark would vary with wear.
(Spark intensity was controlled by the duration (dwell time) between opening & closing of the electrical contacts (aka points). Tune-ups partially consisted of adjusting the position of the contacts as they wore down.

Individual coil packs eliminate the problems associated with a distributor and spark intensity can be controlled electronically by your ECU. yeah!





So if you're still reading I'll get into the 'weeds' a little deeper.

Earlier I said coil packs are nothing more than a step-up transformer with a FET (field effect transistor) switching circuit in one package. So what is a step-up transformer you ask? Well, first some basic electrical theory.

1.) When your apply electrical current into a wire a magnetic field will be produced around that wire.
Make a coil of wire, attach it to a battery and you have an electromagnet (probably did this as a kid in grade school)

2.) When you move a wire through a magnetic field (or move a magnetic field past a wire) you induce current into the wire.
This is how an alternator or generator works. Take several coils of wire wrapped around an armature, spin them past a couple of fixed magnets and you produce current that can be used to charge your car's battery or power you home.

Now we take these two principles and combined them together...
If you make an electromagnet AND you put the electromagnet's coils in close proximity (not physically connected) to another set of coils you can induce current into the second set of coils IF the magnetic field moves in relation to the secondary coils.

Ah, so how do you move the magnetic field? By switching it on and off of course. Each time you cycle power the magnetic field grows and collapses causing it to move in relation to the coils

Ok, so now we can induce power from one set of coils into another set of coils what's the point, why not just route the power directly?

Well the interesting thing is you can increase / decrease the voltage in the secondary coil by varying the ratio of windings between the two coils. For example, if there are ten wraps of wire in the secondary coil for every one wrap in the primary voltage will go up ten times. 1000 to 1, get 1000-volts out for every 1-volt in.
(Of course there is no free lunch, can't make power out of nothing. In order for voltage to go up current must go down).

… So now the picture starts to become clear. Take a low voltage / high current source (i.e. car battery) apply it to a step-up transformer (aka coil pack) Switch it off & on quickly and you can send 30 – 40 thousand (low current) volts to your spark plugs with no moving parts.


So what did we learn here? Coil packs are nothing more than wire and a electronic switch.
The only way they are going to fail is if they are physically damaged by heat or vibration.
Build quality is the key here. Nothing magical. Red vs Black doesn't matter.

 

@ FNChaos - Nice write up and explanation. I copies/pasted your text into the KB for future reference -

FAQ - Audi R8 Red Ignition Coils - Are they Worth the Cost?

Audi R8 Red Ignition Coils - Are they Worth the Cost? - by FNChaos "People often refer to red-colored coil packs as 'R8' coil packs since the R8 uses them. (However, red packs are not exclusive to the R8) There is nothing particularly special about red packs vs black ones. There is no...

www.ttforum.co.uk