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Discussion starter · #41 ·
I read somewhere on t'internet that dv being wrong way round can cause p1297 code. Maybe worth a double check?
Hope you get this sorted soon man.
Pretty sure i've got it plumbed in right. Line from the top of DV to the intake manifold. Opposite that (bottom of DV) goes right into the air intake, just past the MAF. And perpendicular from that the last opening connects to the charge pipe
 
I doubt it's orientation of the stock DV, we've all played with that sort of thing and never had issues.. the only DV that actually cares is the rubbish Forge DV Splitter (DVSPLITR) which 'must be run backwards' otherwise it might break... that sounds ridiculous for a ÂŁ175 component.... "if it is not quite right it will break" <-- oh come on :)
 
Discussion starter · #43 ·
I'm pretty much at my wit's end. I'm smoking it to the point where I have to keep a lot of pressure on the smoke nozzle to hold it in place so it doesn't blow right out. Eventually some smoke will make its way through the secondary air injection into the air box and come out there. No smoke anywhere else

Tested the DV (both new and old) no issues. I tested the fuel pressure before and it was fine but I guess I'll test again just to be sure. Really have no clue what could cause it.

I suppose the P0420 lean code could just be that my cat is bad. But that still wouldn't explain the P1297 pressure drop between turbo and throttle code
 
Can you upload pictures of the pipe work?

Could it be the incorrect or a faulty map sensor? So the maf is saying 1890mbar and the map sensor only seeing 1540mbar?

Someone in here accidently fitted a 2.5bar map sensor so was getting overboost errors, if you have a 4bar map sensor without the map updates it's going to read less..

Have you got the capability to log the specified and actual boost? It's like a fiver for a cable
 
Discussion starter · #45 ·
First of all Stuart, thank you for your continued help

Here are a bunch of pictures. Let me know if you need any more specific pictures

So using the measuring blocks I can see specified and actual boost. Both were ambient air pressure, 990mbar. I was at idle but revving the throttle. I will try to hook my laptop up on my drive to work tomorrow to test it. You can see in my picture of the measuring blocks it was block # 115. I cannot seem to find a way to measure pressure at the MAF... I can only read airflow in g/s there not mbar. So I know pressure at the MAP is 990mbar but don't know what it is at the turbo

I also included a picture of the MAP. It's one thing I haven't replaced so maybe it's worth a shot. Like I said I'll get a better run of it and graph it to show you tomorrow. Thanks again
 

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You can't log boost revving on a driveway, it's load based - so either a road or dyno..

Obviously, be careful with your laptop on the passenger seat, I got quite good at it.. but have done it about 200 times over the years...

The map sensor is on a hard pipe down near the battery.. . I don't advise just to changing it, as often one or both the bolts may break the inserted thread in the hard plastic and just spin.. try and get the part number first and the logging.
 
As above, i went to fit a new MAP sensor a couple of weeks back and the bolt insert just spun. Bought a used pipe from ebay and one of the inserts had spun in that so i removed it then bonded it back in. Parts can go on next year now when weather improves.
 
Discussion starter · #48 ·
So see the attached picture from my drive into work

Pink = boost pressure before throttle valve
White = boost pressure actual
Yellow = boost pressure specified

sorry I didn’t get pictures of the Y axis to see the values. I’ll do it again on my way home

by the way, -24C here lol
 

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Discussion starter · #49 ·
Okay sorry for the color changes but hopefully these pictures do it justice:

White = boost pressure before throttle valve
Blue = boost pressure actual
Red = boost pressure specified

So the boost pressure never even really went past 1200mbar, even pushing the RPMs to 5000 in 2nd gear. Also the "boost pressure specified" almost never changes from 990mbar. Why is that? At one point when merging onto the highway it finally jumped up away from 990 but was still a good 1-200 mbar below the "boost pressure actual"
 

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Discussion starter · #50 ·
Okay so here's my drive to work again but in an easier to read excel file and I did a couple more hard pulls on the throttle

As far as I can tell with my newbie eyes the number seem fine. The boost pressure specified seems to always be slightly lower than the boost pressure actual. The N75 waste gate duty cycle seems to operate properly and correspond to when I let off the throttle. Still can't figure out how / what measuring block reads off the boost pressure at the turbo.. I get it at the intake and at the throttle body but not the turbo
 

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From the MAP sensor that is between the turbo and TB. A leak any where on the charge pipe side can throw that code.

Check all the pipes and the solenoid for the N249 kit if you still have it fitted.
 
That log is awful - vcds logging is utter rubbish - there's only about 10 lines of use in 8 pages, and even those are 1.2 seconds apart?

can you try and just get to a nice straight clear road, get into 3rd at about 1500rpm click start and floor it to 6K + then stop logging and upload the XLS. - maybe look at "visualme7logger" it needs a little bit of setting up (ECU Profile) but you can log all the sensors concurrently and 20 samples a second, and create charts from the resultant files in ecuplot.

If you clear the fault and do the above (single logging run) - does the error re-appear? or does it appear some other time randomly? the "actual" should follow the specified apart from when the boost is building it might overshoot a tiny bit, then be brought back in line (with stock map and working actuator and n75)

is your car supposed to be stock? as you have load up to 175%? a stock map doesn't go that high.

Image


Image
 
Discussion starter · #55 ·
That log is awful - vcds logging is utter rubbish - there's only about 10 lines of use in 8 pages, and even those are 1.2 seconds apart?

can you try and just get to a nice straight clear road, get into 3rd at about 1500rpm click start and floor it to 6K + then stop logging and upload the XLS. - maybe look at "visualme7logger" it needs a little bit of setting up (ECU Profile) but you can log all the sensors concurrently and 20 samples a second, and create charts from the resultant files in ecuplot.

If you clear the fault and do the above (single logging run) - does the error re-appear? or does it appear some other time randomly? the "actual" should follow the specified apart from when the boost is building it might overshoot a tiny bit, then be brought back in line (with stock map and working actuator and n75)

is your car supposed to be stock? as you have load up to 175%? a stock map doesn't go that high.

View attachment 479217

View attachment 479218
I will try to do a quick, straight log run like you mentioned. It's just a bit sketchy to be doing that now that all of the roads are iced over. Got a bunch of snow today as it finally warmed up to -6C

Also, good catch that the load went that high. As far as I knew it was stock. I think the previous owner gave me a tiny reprogrammer but it has to be plugged into the OBD2 to work...
 

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Discussion starter · #56 ·
Okay so here is that log using VCDS. If I clear the fault and do a run the error does not reappear, it reappears sometime later, usually at around 80km of driving but sometimes it will take as long as 200kms

So I see the load % goes as high as 160. You said that's not normal for stock? So maybe my engine has a tune and the MAP isn't set for the tune? But the boost values seem normal-ish
 

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Discussion starter · #58 ·
I did notice the intake temperature went to like minus 3 or 4 degrees centigrade maybe that interferes with the load % ?
In that log the lowest intake temp I see is +3. It was probably -7C outside when I did the log. So is it because I'm at sea level with such cold air I can get higher loads because lots of oxygen? But I also had the same in the summer when it was 20C

I don't know. I can't make heads or tails of this. I'm thinking to just buy a new MAP just because I'm totally lost and have no clue what to do. Or maybe I'll test the fuel pressure again :/
 
If you are talking about getting a new map? By a real tuner, they might highlight an issue in pre-tune checkup.

But if it was me and the car wasn't behaving as expected, I wouldn't blindly put on a new map as it will exacerbate any fault. I would download the map and look to see if it is not stock. Then put a stock map on and use Visual Me7logger to get a real log of value, then you know what the load, boost, timing, injector duty cycle, waste gate duty cycle, knock detection etc should be and hopefully identify any issues. With an Me7logger log file you will see 200 readings from like 30 sensors for a 10 second period...

If you have a real vagcom lead I think they can run in dumb kkl mode or just get a blue kkl lead from China for a fiver.. that can be used to read / write ecu files using NEFMOTO (I don't use that - i use MPPS, which is a different lead) and are used in vcdslite and used with Me7logger.
 
Hello, I’m not sure if you have rectified the cause for the eml coming on yet? But from what you said in the first post about having no signs of any engine or power issues, then I would seriously take a close look at the exhaust pipe where the it joins just after the cats onto the centre section. I had the exact same issue. My eml came on but I had no problems what so ever mechanically nor was the performance effected. After several hours of trying to get help from other members as well as having my local indi inspect all over the engine there was literally no signs to what was causing the problem. Then I had it in the ramps looking at something else and that’s when I noticed the smallest slight crack in the exhaust pipe. I got some exhaust paste and sealed it reset the eml codes and bingo……… Eml no
more. I’m not saying you have the same issue but don’t overlook that even the smallest of cracks in the exhaust system can turn your eml on. Hope this helps, good luck
 
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