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Roadster Drain Tubes / Pipes How To

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#23 ·
Yep soggy floors due to the rubbish original fit tubes! Just been tackling the passenger side as you showed in the pictures- getting the big panel off was ok apart from breaking a clip holder on the top right hand side just below the seatbelt. Going to repair it with some sugru and it'll be fine.

I'm hanging back on removing the speaker & seatbelt cassette as my little daughter can reach in through that quadrangular hole on the side and feed the new pipe through, will have to see if she can manage to secure it at the drip tray tomorrow as rain has stopped play today. Can I ask if the drivers side is much different? I'm guessing you removed the speaker & seatbelt cassette there too?

A tip for others tackling this- use an electricians cable feeder rod set to feed the new pipe through from the wheelarch end up into the car to attach to the drip tray outlet (feed the cable rod into the drip tray and down into the arch first - whichever is easiest for you) I used a similar set to this but much cheaper from amazon or the cheap tool outlets

Image


Its much easier than using string!
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
bobdabuilda said:
Yep soggy floors due to the rubbish original fit tubes! Just been tackling the passenger side as you showed in the pictures- getting the big panel off was ok apart from breaking a clip holder on the top right hand side just below the seatbelt. Going to repair it with some sugru and it'll be fine.

I'm hanging back on removing the speaker & seatbelt cassette as my little daughter can reach in through that quadrangular hole on the side and feed the new pipe through, will have to see if she can manage to secure it at the drip tray tomorrow as rain has stopped play today. Can I ask if the drivers side is much different? I'm guessing you removed the speaker & seatbelt cassette there too?

A tip for others tackling this- use an electricians cable feeder rod set to feed the new pipe through from the wheelarch end up into the car to attach to the drip tray outlet (feed the cable rod into the drip tray and down into the arch first - whichever is easiest for you) I used a similar set to this but much cheaper from amazon or the cheap tool outlets

Image


Its much easier than using string!
Click to expand...
If your daughter can get her arm in, you can look through the hole in the arch with a torch and guide her onto the tray, that's what I did :)

The driver's side is pretty much the exactly the same, the storage compartment is a slightly different shape but that's all. We didn't even remove the drivers seat, only the passenger seat as it was out anyway for drying the carpet.

My Dad happened to have a big cable feeder on a roll from work, but we didn't end up using it.

(Just realised my photos aren't working as my photobucket account is maxxed out - Grrr!)
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
bobdabuilda said:
The hole in the arch is the place she got her hand through, but she is only ickle!
Click to expand...
Unless she's got really really really wee hands we're talking about something different! Once you take the arch liner off you see the outlet hole for the tubes, about a foot(ish) above that hole is another about the same size with a rubber bung in it. Pull the bung out and you can shine a torch in there and peek in.
 
#29 ·
You get a great view of the connection point to the tray through it. I was hoping my wife could get her hand in but no chance hence why my little girl was called in. Really hoping that she can secure the new one on there. Is it just a simple pushfit connection or is it glued on?
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
bobdabuilda said:
You get a great view of the connection point to the tray through it. I was hoping my wife could get her hand in but no chance hence why my little girl was called in. Really hoping that she can secure the new one on there. Is it just a simple pushfit connection or is it glued on?
Click to expand...
Hopefully it shouldn't be glued! We just pushed it on. The old ones pulled off easily. I would have liked to put a cable tie around it but there was no chance we would have managed it. I don't think they'll fall off :)
 
#32 ·
All done through the small holes on the side thanks to my little superstar. The connection to the drainage lugs is sturdy enough even though its just pushfit thanks to the spigot design on it. I did use the heat shrink wrap on the tubes which makes them less flexible but just gives the extra peace of mind.

I'm still not particularly impressed by the tube design as the internal bore is small and turbulence within is increased by the spring which, as found in the original condom type tubes, just acts as a reservoir for the dirt to collect in. I think in future if I ever have to do this again I would take the ends of the old tubes for the fitment and connect them to a 30mm diameter smooth bore wire reinforced rubber or silicone hose.This would have the advantage of maximising the internal bore and being smooth won't collect the crap inside like the originals. I will post some pics of the install up shortly.

Once again, many thanks for posting up your install as it made the job much easier, even though I cheated by doing it through the side holes with the help of my 9 yr old daughter. :)
 
#33 ·
Hello guys,

I've just removed the drain pipe from the passenger side using your wonderful thread as a guide. My 2000 TT was fitted with this:

Image


It really resembles the new pipes you have bought and fitted yourself. On my car what happened is that the duct tape in the top-end of the pipe had deteriorated and because of that the pipe totally disconnected from the top rubbery ring and fell inside the car. My TT was getting loads of water inside because of that!

I have my thread running for a while if someone wants to leave some feedback (I don't want to hijack this one):
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1276057
 
#34 ·
Many thanks for the previous good work done here; I'm feeling confident about replacing mine as soon as the weather gives me the opportunity. Got the two tubes waiting patiently.
 
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#35 ·
Greetings - Thanks for this valuable thread!

It's allowed me to remove the interior trim and see the tubes. I'd like to replace with larger diameter smooth bore tubing, and ideally purchase it before old tubes are pulled out so the swap can be done in a single go.

Trouble is I'm unclear on inside and outside diameters that will allow a push fit onto the drip tray spigot and/or re-using end that exits into wheel arch.

I 've seen discrepant figures of 22 and 30 mm, so would really appreciate a definitive spec on I/D & O/D.

Thanks for your time and help!

Bill
 
#36 ·
Did you see the photos Phil556 posted part-way down the first page after I asked him about dimensions? There are some quite clear pictures showing each end of the tube where it fits onto various other bits.
 
#37 ·
also look to the pictures in my thread: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1276057
I made some measurements there.

DrWOB said:
Greetings - Thanks for this valuable thread!

It's allowed me to remove the interior trim and see the tubes. I'd like to replace with larger diameter smooth bore tubing, and ideally purchase it before old tubes are pulled out so the swap can be done in a single go.

Trouble is I'm unclear on inside and outside diameters that will allow a push fit onto the drip tray spigot and/or re-using end that exits into wheel arch.

I 've seen discrepant figures of 22 and 30 mm, so would really appreciate a definitive spec on I/D & O/D.

Thanks for your time and help!

Bill
Click to expand...
 
#38 ·
Hi droopsnoot & miknix,

Thank you both for you kind replies!

Yes, I reviewed pics from Phil556 & was having difficulty discerning actual i/d due to shadows. My best approx is 22 mm, and miknix photos seem to corroborate. Looks like fitting flares to 30 mm though?

I'm in the States so 7/8 inch i/d would be 22.225 mm - presume that would stay on with push fit; and allow splicing onto rubber grommet at wheel arch for retention? That's really my concern [though I may just leave interior trim off for winter to make sure tubes are staying in place] Thought about putting powdered graphite on trim retainer clips when I do reinstall, as one or two actually broke out of plastic on removal ;-/

Also thinking it might be prudent to place a plastic "hair strainer" like used for sink drains over drip tray inlets to block big chunks & aid in debris removal going forward.

Will be travelings next days, so apologize in advance in case I'm slow to acknowledge further posts!

Cheers, DrWOB
 
#39 ·
My solution on duct taping the pipes is not definitive either so I'm really interested in the solution you are aiming for.

What I had thought to do myself was to buy a pvc pipe (the ones used in washing machines) and then use a heat gun to allow the pipe to expand and accommodate the diameter (use vaseline or glycerin, it helps sliding into place with almost no effort) of the drain pipe (on the bottom of the drain cup). Then, to be triple-sure it holds in place, tighten it up using a hose clamp (like the ones used in turbo hoses); if the PVC pipe is good quality, this should last for many many years. To simplify, instead of a hose clamp, maybe one could even use a zip-tie..

From my experience in doing the last repair, I think it's very manageable to pass a small heat gun and screwdriver (to screw the hose clamp) through the tiny window in the chassis.

What do you think?
 
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kinell2002
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